saddlebum

That takes all the fun out of it. Plus those of us who don't have running water in our garages got save what water we have to rinse off any brake fluid we may spill on the bike.

Also grab the bottom of the forks push them backwards and forwards to see if you detect any sloppiness in the bearings, there should be zero lash without any binding when turning the forks.

Just don't split the housing unless your very confident. the o rings that seal the housing halves can be difficult to acquire. I do split them because it makes it easier to clean but it is very important if you do that you have the proper o-rings and reassemble them exactly.

I have been trying out the bosch ESI6 brake fluid and so far like it very much. I find improved clutch and brake response over the dot 3 and dot 4. It is a little more expensive though https://www.boschautoparts.ca/en/auto/brakes/ca-esi6-brake-fluid here is an interesting comparison chart of brake fluids which includes both wet and dry boiling points. For those who don't know the difference, The Dry Boiling Point of brake fluid refers to the boiling temperature of fresh, new brake fluid from an unopened container. Whereas the Wet Boiling Point is defined as the temperature DOT brake fluid will begin to boil after it has absorbed 3.7% water by volume. DOT brake fluid will reach this level of water volume after roughly 2 years of service, which is why it is advisable to renew your brake fluid every 1-2 years. https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm

Along with everything else already mentioned it may not hurt to recheck tire balance while off the ground spin the tires and look for any run out both vertical and side to side, even a new tire can have a defect. Some tires like the Avons on the 1st gens just are not compatible with the bike. For example many 1st gens with Avon tires develop a nasty tail wag at 100 kmh/62 mph Check the thin rib on the tire that runs along the rim to make sure the tire was beaded up properly, sometimes if not enough or incorrect lube is used the tire wont center properly when it is inflated. Make sure both tires are of same construction type Both being either radial or bias but not one of each.

On another note if your not sure if it is brake fluid or fork oil just smell it they smell totally different or rub a little on the back of your hand brake fluid has a weird warmish feel on the skin. were fork oil just feels like oil.

OOOOOKAY ..I guess if I have to admit it ...glad to see you back glad your surgery's so far have been successful enough to allow you to continue riding and if I reallllly have to admit it ,,,,It will be good to see you again when things start getting back to normal.....

WHAT ....... WHO LEFT THE DANG DOOR OPEN ....... SOMEONE CALL SECURITY.........

My situation it just the opposite. The minute Covid became a serious threat back in Feb 2020 My Dr called me up to tell me to stop work. The reasons being underlying health issues including three bouts of pneumonia over the past 50 years, My age and the fact that my job entailed dealing with truck drivers that are constantly crossing state and provincial borders and working on their trucks. He simply put it to me that I would not survive if I caught this thing. So here I now have all this free time to travel on my M/C without needing to be home or anywhere else by a certain time and I still can't do any cross country road trip. Talk about holding a juicy steak in front of a dog but just out side the length of his chain.

I am with yo skid. Every year I looked forward to Maintenance Day, the WNY rally and the roaming international rallies, and hooking up with all the great friends I made through this website over the years. For a time we even had a good Ontario Rally and a meet and eat or two going. I hate to admit it but I am getting a little bored running the same local roads over and over. I hope things get back to normal sooner rather than later.

Hi Earl I am not saying I have an issue with the rear brake and I totally get what your saying. Both my master and my rear caliper are in good shape and my wheel will lock up on loose gravel and will slow me down on asphalt. In essence all I am saying is I would like to increase the stopping force of my rear brake, more of a personal thing really. BTW when I de-linked I completely eliminated the proportioning valve from the master and connected the line directly to the master. My thoughts here was simply to increase the force a bit and given that the seals on the caliper are no different than front ones I imagine the minimal increase should not hurt them. So in other words I would trade off some delivery volume for increased delivery pressure, given the ratio difference increase between the master piston diameter/face area and the total face area of the combined caliper pistons which of course would also increase pedal travel. As I said this is more of a thought process than an actual problem.

It is not difficult but it is a bit time consuming and may be awkward if you working by yourself. Remove the tailpipes. Remove the back wheel. Remove the swing arm. Then separate The U Joint at the transmission and then remove the yolk from the output shaft then you have access to do what you need to do with the seal

Given what you just stated about the difference between the MKI and the MKII rear master cylinders. Would the reverse not be true if you have de-linked the brakes and it not then be beneficial to install a MKI rear master cylinder onto a MKII? In my mind the slightly smaller piston diameter of the MKI rear master would increase the application pressure applied by the rear caliper over that applied with the MKII. As it stands I feel I could use a bit more braking force on my rear caliper than I currently have. Of course I get that for some that could make the rear brake too aggressive, specially on slippery road surfaces.

You have to remember most law makers and government officials Don't or even ever have live in the real world. Fortunately there are a small handful that do or we would really be in KAKA.......Yup I used @Marcarl's KAKA word

Sounds like your loosing fluid or getting air into the system, the later generally only possible after you have lost pretty much all of your fluid. Check your reservoir level, you will probably find it is down. Look for external leaks around the lines and the slave cylinder. If there are no external leaks, than there is a good chance that it is leaking past the piston and shaft in the slave cylinder, where by the brake fluid will be leaking into your crankcase. If this is the case, you will need to either replace or rebuild the clutch slave. Being as how the slave can be a bit of PITA, I would recommend replacing. Rebuilding is easy enough and kits are available but if there is the slightest imperfection in the walls of the slave, you wasted your time and money because it will soon leak again. If you want to simplify the job a bit, get your self a middle gear cover gasket and copper washer for its lower bolt. Removal of this cover gives you better access to the slave, making it easier to get back in. Make sure you drain the engine oil both from the drain plug and the lower cover bolt before removing the cover. The slave can be removed and installed without removal but if you have the wrong set of dentures in your mouth, getting it back in can be a real PITA and instead of quick success you could come up with a new vocabulary that would impress even the most vulgar trucker.

I find myself doing much the same every spring. Bike gets a bit temperamental in the spring after being ignored all winter so I have to give her a little drink of something and spend a little one on one time up the highway with her to help get her spirits back up to her normal self.

Note also the part about how Harley managed to block there progress in the US market which cost Yamaha big. History of the Yamaha Motor Yamaha Motor Company Limited is a Japanese manufacturer of motorcycles. Originally part of Yamaha Corporation. The company also manufactures other motorized equipment: all-terrain vehicles, boats, snowmobiles (see also Yamaha Snowmobiles), outboard motors, and boats. In 1887, Thorakusu Yamaha founded the company Nippon Gakki Co., Ltd. (since 1987 - Yamaha Corporation) for the production of Western musical instruments - harmonium, and later the piano. Soon the company mastered the production of metal components for these tools, and from the 1920s it also began to produce propellers for aircraft. In 1954, the Japanese government returned to Nippon Gakki a metal factory confiscated at the end of World War II. It began the production of motorcycles. On July 1, 1955, this production was spun off into an independent company, called the Yamaha Motor Company Limited, and its president was Genichi Kawakami, who also continued to lead Nippon Gakki. The first model, the Yamaha YA-1, copied from the DKW RT 125, was nicknamed “Aka-tombo,” which means “red dragonfly” (due to its simple shapes and chestnut-red color). It was the “Red Dragonfly” Yamaha owed its first sports victories: in the very first race at the foot of Mount Fuji on the YA-1, a victory was won. In 1959, Yamaha Motor began production of fiber-reinforced polymer (FRP) motor boats. In 1960, a subsidiary of Yamaha International Corporation was established, which began selling Yamaha products in the United States. In 1968, the company began producing snowmobiles, in 1975 - golf cars, in 1978 - snow-removing equipment. In 1964, a subsidiary of Siam Yamaha Co. was founded. in Thailand, motorcycle production was launched in Taiwan in 1966. In 1972, the headquarters was moved to Iwata. In 1976, the first Yamaha arc welding robot was introduced. By the end of the 1970s, having mastered the US motorcycle market, the Yamaha Motor Company ranked second in the world for their production. In 1981, the company made an attempt to oust Honda from the first place, having begun mass production of new models. Competitors answered in the same way, and Harley Davidson managed to impose restrictive tariffs on imports of Japanese motorcycles in the USA. Yamaha Motor Company was not ready for this, because, unlike Honda, it did not have its own production facilities in the USA; as a result, Yamaha Motor was left with a million unsold motorcycles, a debt of $ 1 billion and a net loss of $ 126 million. For the main corporation, Nippon Gakki, this had a limited effect, since at that time it controlled only 39% of Yamaha Motor's shares, and electronic musical instruments Yamaha enjoyed great success. In 1982, Yamaha Motor began a partnership with the French scooter manufacturer Motobecane (MBK), and soon Yamaha Motor became the largest shareholder of this company. Since 1985, Yamaha Motor began operations in India. Since 2001, India Yamaha Motor (English) Russian. became the full property of Yamaha Motor. There are two factories in India. In 2013, Yamaha Motor Research and Development India Pvt was founded in India. Ltd. and marketing company Yamaha Motor India Sales Pvt. Ltd. In 1990, the Yamaha Motor Company began a partnership with the Italian motorcycle manufacturer Minarelli, in 2002 the company became part of the Yamaha Motor. In 2015, Yamaha and the Italian sports car brand Abarth entered into a partnership agreement for the 2 seasons of the MotoGP World Championship 2015 and 2016. In November 2016, two joint products were introduced as part of the EICMA show - the Yamaha XSR900 Abarth motorcycle and the Fiat 500 Abarth Tributo.

They probably charge hefty because they see it as rebuilding 4 carbs not one.

Your right that was it. Thanks!

Plus when crossing back into Canada you get invited to spend some social time with the nice Canadian customs people.

This is true but a lot of paints can be removed with lacquer thinner. the trouble is you have to be careful what type of finish is on the bike. Lacquer thinner can dissolve some paints or clear coats. As the fabric cleaning products always say "try in a inconspicuous area first"

Great now not only do I have to put up with @Marcarl's KAKA but it appears he is now developing a group of KAKA followers

As is said you will never see one of these ........outside a psychiatrists office.

I am too dutch too bribe. Smuggling is more the nature of my gene pool. Off course even there I have conflicting genes. My fathers side of the gene pool are notorious for smuggling and being successful at it, while my mothers side is more along the lines of fear of of getting caught and have the give away facial expressions to pretty much guarantee it.

This is true, in fact you will drain an additional 1/4 to 1/3 cup of oil through this bolt after having drained through the main drain plug. Not draining this additional oil when doing an oil change and I am not saying you have too, is why often after changing oil and running the bike and then shutting it down to recheck your oil level, your new oil mysteriously gets darker faster than you think it should.