saddlebum

Love the motorcycle stand. Were can I get on e or just post the link.

But how many helping hands did it take to get him back up 😜 Well you know every group has someone who just can't help being a real photo ham.

For the best advice on trailering your bike visit the Harley forum. If they don't know ain't nobody knows.

Prayers sent. Very sorry to hear about their situation.

The impact tool Skydoc mentions is a very useful tool to have on hand not just for the drain plug. I have one in my box at work, one in my mobile tool box and 2 in my home garage tool box. The second one of the two at home I welded on to it the handle I cut from a worn out adjustable wrench. It keeps it from twisting in my hand when I use it with a heavy mallet to break loose heavy bolts up to 5/8 " and have broken loose bolts a breaker bar would not budge. When putting the valve covers back on 1st check to be sure none of the rubber plugs that sit on top of the cams came out while removing the valve covers and be careful not to do the same as you put the valve covers back in place. I once discovered one in the bottom of an engine while replacing the clutch. Oil pressure can escape through the holes these plugs fill and they are held in place by little nubs molded into the underside of the valve cover.

This could hold true if more load was added to the circuit than it was originally designed to carry but even in a perfectly sized circuit, if connectors loosen up which is common with round eyelet terminals, were screws sometimes vibrate loose and extremely common with push on terminal which tend loose their tension and become loose heat is created. The flat 1/4" wide blade type push on terminals, are specially bad for this. As their grip loosens resistance increases causing heat which further loosens the terminals grip. Eventually this cycle continues to were so much heat is created that the plastic plug these often sit in melt and as this heat transfers back along the wire the insulation melts barring the wire and this now bared wire can either burn through the insulation on other wires or contact ground creating a dead short, were if your lucky the fuse will blow but if it fails to blow because it is too large, the problem can continue back along the harness damaging additional wires either within the circuit itself or melting into wires that run along side it as in a harness. In this type of circumstance increasing wire and fuse size would not help and could actually be a problem since the increased fuse size would not blow as readily and the increased wire size instead of burning through would simply help to spread the issue further as described in the previous sentence. I cannot even count the number of times I have seen customers increase wire and fuse size from the fuse box to some add on device only to have the wire that supplied the fuse or even the fuse box itself burn up because someone thought simply increasing the fuse size and the size of the wire from the fuse to the add on device was good enough. This is were a really is a smart move as long as it is wired properly. By these I mean you can use the original wire to activate the relay but the the power going through the load terminals to the load should come directly from the battery or equivalent through a proper sized fuse and wire size to meet the load requirements to the relay (usually terminal 30 ) and then from the relay ( usually terminal 87 ) to the load. With regards to the 30/40 amp rating. This is normally on a 5 terminal relay were terminal 87 is normally open and terminal 87a is normally closed. Terminal 87 is rated at 40 amps were terminal 87a is rated at 30 amps.

Most dyes for leak detection are safe We use at it at work all the time for oil, AC and diesel fuel leaks. just make sure the dye you use is for the type of fluid your dealing with and yes most are very safe to use. Personally I have not come across one that is not ( and we use them frequently at work )as long as you use it properly. Example do not over use and do not use dye intended for AC systems in lubrication systems or visa versa.

There is also a screw at the bottom of the middle gear cover with a copper washer on it that will allow you to drain almost an extra 1/4 cup of oil if you remove it with the bike on the side stand. With regards to the main plug. try giving it a few solid raps up against the case with a hammer. This often helps to break it loose. Just don't drive right up through the case.

I agree, The way the chap did it in the video left me thinking the wheel could still slide side to side within the confines of the strap.

Prayer sent along with my best wishes for both of you.

He mistook you for his long lost twin brother by the same name. They had a lot in common.

Go for it. you can try but if she is like my wife she will just say then the rest of the world is wrong too.

@RDawsonis correct a relay is not a circuit breaker. The amp rating on a relay only indicates the highest load a relay can carry not the protection given to the circuit, therefore it does not matter how thin the wire is as long as the wire and fuse or breaker are the correct size for the load on the circuit. Any size relay can be used as long as the amp capacity of the relay is larger than the circuit load. So if the circuit load is designed and fused for 20 amps any relay rated larger than twenty amps is OK to use whether it be a 30 amp Relay or 75 amp Relay. Going to a heavier gauge wire and corresponding fuse is only required if the load on the circuit is more than what the existing size of wire and fuse combination in the circuit is able to carry

I have posted this before but will again since it may be useful to some. It lists ethanol free gasoline locations. https://www.pure-gas.org/about https://www.pure-gas.org/chart Interesting FAQ from the above website; Can I test gas myself to see if it contains ethanol? Yes, and it's quite easy to do. Inexpensive fuel-testing kits are widely available, or you can just do it yourself: Pour a small amount of water into a narrow jar (an olive jar works great) and mark the water level with a Sharpie. Add the fuel to around a 10:1 fuel:water ratio. Shake well, let settle for a few minutes. See if the water level has risen above the mark. If it has risen, it has combined with ethanol from the fuel.

I have progressives but still make minor adjustments on the class to fine tune it to were I want it, take air out on rough roads and add a little on smooth roads and hard surface twists. Do I have a sweet spot ? Can't say as I have found it yet. On the other had we don't have a lot of challenging twisties here and often the ones that are often have fine gravel or sand so you don't often push the limit.

Very true. As a matter of fact most fuel bottles or containers have a max fill line on them for this very reason.

Some interesting links to check out SPARE FUEL CONTAINER IDEAS https://www.giantloopmoto.com/product/gas-bag-fuel-safe-bladder/ https://desertfox.bike/desert-fox-5l-fuel-cell/ https://www.reda.co/reda-gas-can https://adventuremotorcycle.com/gear/motorcycle-auxiliary-fuel-tanks https://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/shopping-guides/how-to-carry-extra-fuel-on-a-motorcycle

With my 1st Gen 89 MK2 I actually went back to a PIAA hi output Halogen bulb after trying three different LED's. Although the LED was brighter I found it lacked projection, proper focus and definition of road objects with 90% of the light cast being directly in front allowing for much less reaction time. It is my belief that the reflector and lens design is not well suited to the proper focusing of the LED bulb. On the other hand if you can replace the entire headlight with a self contained LED sealed beam as you would be able too with the MK1 83-85 and other bikes that use a sealed beam or were the headlight can be replace with a complete sealed beam unit, it would be very effective since the LED Lens and reflector are designed to work together. PIAA extreme white halogen https://www.piaa.com/store/p/1003-H4-9003-Xtreme-White-Hybrid-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bulbs.aspx some examples of sealed beam LED headlights. https://www.grote.com/white-light/forward-lighting/led-sealed-beam-headlights/ On the other hand recently some have tried the LED by super bright and have stated very satisfactory results. Here is the link https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-high-beam-and-low-beam-headlight-bulb/motorcycle-h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3930/8566/?make=105&model=3743&scc_id=1940&year=2009 Then others have gone to HID, but some have experienced issues such as stater overload or dropping out when you hit the starter, though the later can be overcome with a slight wiring modifications.

The one behind it.

Not even the perfect MC that never wipes out, breaks down or runs out of gas?

I agree loose connections create resistance. Resistance creates heat. Heat creates more resistance which creates more heat which eventually reaches a point where plastic connectors melts and electrical connections or connected components fail completely. International trucks were notorious for having ignition switch fires for this very reason. Also when installing a relay switch check the load/amp rating of the relay. Just because it is a relay switch does not guaranty it won't overheat, It must be rated high enough to carry the load put upon it. This goes for the load carrying wires and terminals as well. If you do not increase the size of the wire to match the load placed upon it, it will overheat as well.

They way you describe the issue (and I do not mean to sound like a skeptic here ) but let me ask two questions. ! does this happen almost immediately upon riding in the rain or hitting a big puddle and does the issue clear up by itself after things dry up. I ask this because if the answer is yes to both questions I tend to doubt its water entering the fuel tank. Whether the cause is a faulty cap or water drawn in through the vent line the issue would not pop up immediately, nor would it go away just because it dried up outside because it takes time for enough water to enter the tank then trickle down through the gas to the bottom and then fill the bottom of the tank to the point were it can be picked up by the pickup tube. Then once it accumulates to the point were does become a problem it would not just go away when things dry up, once enough water is in the tank to cause a problem it is there to stay and should it accumulate in the fuel bowls to were the bike quits or will not start the would not start again until you have drained the fuel bowls and tank of the accumulated water. There fore Like steamer I would look towards and electrical issue. Also Steamers suggestion ( which is a good one ) of draining fuel out of the fuel hose at the tank valve to check for water also needs to gain a certain level before it will come out. Try draining from the carbs as well to see if water is in the float bowl. Both are best down after the bike has sat for a bit to allow the water and gas to separate. You can also try acquiring some water detection paste. smear a bit on a stiff but flexible makeshift dip stick and reach into the bottom of the fuel tank through the filler. The paste usually green will turn a purplish pink if it contacts any water. Next time the bike quits in the rain spray and wash down your coils, plugs and plug wires with a penetrating oil such as WD40 or equivalent and see if the bike restarts. You can also try wetting the bike electrical system down with a spray bottle of water a spot at a time to see if it causes an issue Or hose the whole bike down really well in the dark and then watch for arching or as we mechanics say look for Christmas lights. Water will often create carbon tracts on the external surfaces of high voltage parts of the ignition system. If you nothing shows up remove all your plug wires and apply a generous amount of dielectric grease inside the boots and sockets and reassemble. you could take it one step further and replace the plugs and wires while doing this Another source of rain induced cutting out I have found on many bike mostly Harley's, Is the ignition switch. Over time they develop a green powder in the switch and/or connectors. every time this powder ( we call Fretting ) gets wet it shorts out the electrical system enough to create an issue but not enough to blow a fuse. Try flushing the switch and connectors with electrical cleaner and a small brush were you can, With a sealed ignition switch stick the straw into the key hole and flush well alternating between spraying and turning the switch back and forth with the key. Follow up with a spray such as ACF50 or equivalent and saturate the ignition switch well. While your at it go over all your connections clean and apply dielectric grease to your connections.

Yup --some of it still is Plus all the craziness. Sadly some of our best members have moved on to the next life and are forever missed but I can't help to think that once in awhile they look down on us and still have a chuckle or two.