saddlebum

It is hit and miss process but well worth trying before removing the carbs. In the early days of carburetor-ed cars about 75% of the cars that came to me for carb overhauls I resolved by just such or similar method. I am sure some shops did the same but still biled for a complete carb overhaul.

You think they will still be available thirty years from now when I am old.

It makes sense considering I read somewhere that fighter pilots use suits that apply compression to the lower part of their body's during ZERO-G maneuvers, to prevent them from blacking out .

check these links https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1986/gv1400gd/19-clutch https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1986/gv1400gd/66-clutch-master-cylinder

Just kidding ...its a nice looking ride

With the setup I built using the adjustable valves fluid gauges and restrictors are not required. I later upgraded to a bigger gauge for the bigger face and this gauge did happen to be liquid filled. Other than slightly changing how I adjusted the valves to smooth out the needle it really did not make any difference in the overall performance of the tool.

What is that supposed to be... ............

Typhoid Mary never got sick but she spread the disease were ever she went and caused the death of many. Mary Mallon was born in 1869 in Ireland and emigrated to the US in 1884. She had worked in a variety of domestic positions for wealthy families prior to settling into her career as a cook. As a healthy carrier of Salmonella typhi her nickname of “Typhoid Mary” had become synonymous with the spread of disease, as many were infected due to her denial of being ill for a total of 26 years and refusal of medical treatment, Mary who had presented a moderate form of typhoid continued to host the bacteria, her entire life working at various places under different names in her attempts to avoid health authorities, contaminating everything around her, a real threat for the surrounding environment. Mary had served in 8 families. Seven of them had experienced cases of typhoid. Twenty-two people presented signs of infection and some died. That year, about 3,000 New Yorkers had been infected by Salmonella typhi, and Mary was determined to be the main reason for the outbreak. Something to think about would you not say.

Motion Pro uses manometer fluid and is probably the most accurate and sensitive though incorrectly used the fluid could get sucked right out of it. Morgan Carb Tune is probably one of the more popular and since it uses rods rather than fluid, fluid loss is not an issue. Storage and transporting is not an issue either. However on the odd occasion the rods have been known to get sticky if some foreign material found its way into the tool. I occasionally check mine by using a homemade 5 port manifold to which I connect all four hoses and a mighty vac applie vacuum and make sure all four rods read the same. You can also use this test on the gauge type to ensure they all read the same as well. The Four Gauge set is probably the most trouble free and unlike the first two it does not need to hang vertical and can be used in any position. You do have to check the gauges and make sure all four read in sync with one another as with the morgan. Home Made you can also make your own using four gauges or a single gauge with four valves on a rigged up manifold. Below is a PDF for one I made from scrap parts. You can make a similar one by combining brass parts as well (that is How Marcarl made his which is where I got the idea for mine ) The single gauge eliminates discrepancy between gauges and the valves allow you to both select the cylinder you want to check and dampen the pulses so you get a steady needle reading. Use of the valves to dampen pulses eliminates the need for restrictions in the hoses or the more expensive fluid dampened gauges which I find often tend to loose their fluid over time The down side is you cannot check all four cylinders at the same time you have open and close each valve one at a time and compare your readings that way. But it does make for a very compact and effective unit. HOMEMADE CARB SYNC TOOL.pdf

In the 2nd picture the two top plugs are running rich the bottom two are about right, though a tad more tan would not hurt. I doubt timing is an issue otherwise all four cylinders would be effected the same, since timing is controlled electronically and timing advance is based on the signal sent to the ign unit by a vacuum sensor connected to the vacuum port on #1 cylinder ( though you may sometimes find it connected to #2 cylinder ). I would start by checking the fuel enrichment valves. They are small plungers which are on the outside of the carbs and controlled by a forked lever which are manipulated by the choke lever. Make sure they are not stuck in the enrichment position they should move freely when you manipulate the choke lever. Next I would check the diaphragms. Very simple task just remove the side covers from the carbs. 4 screws each. Carefully slide out diaphragm and barrel assembly. closely inspect the diaphragms for holes or tears and note if the barrels slide out smoothly or if they are sticky coming out. ( This is also a good time to give the carb and any accessible passages a good flush with carb cleaner )If the diaphragms look fine carefully put them back in. On the needle end of the barrel there is a small hole make sure it is in the 6 o'clock position when you reinstall. If holes are found replace the diaphragms. Some have had luck patching tiny pin holes with silicone or E6000 glue. ( Last year I made a batch of homemade water proofing for my tents and camping gear consisting of a 50/50 mix of 100% pure clear silicone and mineral spirits as I was brushing it on my tent floor full of pin holes I began to wonder how it would work on diaphragms. Thought someday I May try it on an old set put it in the bike and see how well it works ) Moving on. I would also check the fuel levels as mentioned earlier, though unless a float has gone bad or someone has tampered with it I am inclined to think you may not find an issue here. If it is a sticky needle valve not seating properly you generally get fuel coming out of the overflow tubes at idle. If you do find the float levels out of adjustment you will have to remove the carbs to adjust them. While you have them off you could overhaul them or at the very least remove inspect and clean the enrichment valves, making sure they move freely. You will need new mounting gaskets and seals for these. Remove and replace the needles and seats. While you have these parts off flush all accessible passage with carb cleaner, let soak and then blow out with air. As you reassemble everything, don forget to bench set your float levels. I like to bench set them wet this allows me to ensure there are no leaks before putting them on the bike. ( I will attach a PDF of the set up I rigged up though there are other ways of doing it ) ( i believe there is a dry set up method shown in the tech section as well). Either way you will want to recheck once it is back on the bike and running. Cleaning First Gen Carbs On The Bike.pdf Home made set up for wet setting floats on the bench.pdf

Forget who it was but he shipped his starter to some guy north of us and he apparently rebuilt it and converted to for brush. No idea how since I would think it would require more than just replacing the brush plate like converting two poles to four poles etc. but I figure if its possible for one re-builder to do it than there must be others.

I also had one guy tell me he sent his into a re-builder who converted the 2 brush over to a 4 brush.

And there in sits the confusion. When the experts cannot agree how is the average person with an average or less education to fully grasp the situation. Yet millions on both sides of the discussion profess to know it all. For myself though I do not know the exact nature or all the true facts of this virus which I am sure can be said about most of us, I do feel that masking and vaccines have made a difference in curbing the spread of this Virus. Will it end it? possibly not but taking steps in an attempt to limit the spread and devastation of this virus certainly cannot hurt. We all know that the numbers at one point went to frightening levels in some areas and yet some hospitals that prepared for the worst did not see the numbers they prepared for. However just because some areas did not reach epic numbers does not IMHO mean we should throw caution to the wind. It seems every time the numbers go down and we relax in our precautions the numbers start to rise again. That in itself must say something. Like the cold or flu it may never go away and true even though vaccines for the flu are only effective against the flavor of the day and need to be revised for each new flu variant they do seem to help reduce the spread. As well you would not want someone with the flu or a cold coughing in your face whether you feel you are immune or not and when we know our kids friends have the flu or a cold we tend to keep our kids away until those kids are over what ever it is that ails them, So why are we so resistant to taking whatever steps we can to limit the spread of covid. for these reasons I personally believe wearing a mask is a good safety precaution and a good consideration to those around you in case you unknowingly are afflicted. Am I totally sold on the vaccine and whether or not it is the right choice? I have questions, But I do believe it is still the lessor of two evils and may not be the perfect cure but may buy us time until we do find the perfect cure. This is just my humble opinion and certainly not meant to start a political debate. But if the monitors see fit to remove I fully understand.

Drill or find a hole just above one of the rollers in the track and slip in a nut and bolt or even a bicycle lock. On my door I made a toggle 8" long out of a piece of 2x4 and drilled a hole in one end. Then lag bolted it to the header above the door just tighten enough to stay up when I swing it up out of the way. When it hangs down it jambs against the top of the door so the door cannot be opened.

Does the neighbor know you took it.

Assuming your talking about the type of coil spring that runs horizontal along the header and requires twisting to increase tension and not the stretch type springs which sit vertical at the each side of the door and unless you have an extra high door instead of the average 6'6" to 7' door some of the places that supply parts to the truck and trailer industry may have a spring that will suit your needs. The springs used for the box roll up doors are much the same you just need to match one up with your old spring. Though inside diameter and wire diameter are important because of the hubs at each end there is some room to play with the spring length as long as it fits it just changes the number twists you need to put into the spring to get the right tension, keeping in mind if the spring is much too short you may not get enough twists to cover the travel distance of the door although most garage doors travel about the same distance as a trailer door give or take a tad.

Sorry I was referring to the one holding up the center of the bike.

I don't know about that, wearing or not wearing a mask has not changed my financial situation at all. I am just as broke as I ever was.

Most terminals are available for various wire sizes if increasing wire size is something you wanted to do. Alternatively if a wire is to big for the terminal you can get away with trimming a few strands to make it fit. Since wire resistance is based not just on the gauge of the wire but also on the accumulated length of the wire which increases with the length of the wire, trimming back 1/8" of an inch at the terminal, though not the best of choices is still an improvement over a lighter gauge wire. Ever notice how a power tool looses power when an extension cord is too long and the cord gets warm. yet you replace that cord with a much shorter cord of the same gauge the cord remains cool and the power tool is back to full power. The same occurs if you replace the cord with one of equal length but heavier gauge. Common Wire Gauges AWG wire size (solid) Diameter (inches) Resistance per 1000 ft (ohms) Resistance per 1000 m (ohms) 24 0.0201 25.67 84.2 22 0.0254 16.14 52.7 20 0.0320 10.15 33.2 18 0.0403 6.385 20.9 16 0.0508 4.016 13.2 14 0.0640 2.525 8.28 12 0.0808 1.588 5.21 10 0.1019 0.999 3.28

The mask stops the droplets / moisture vapor that carry the virus. Farts are usually dry not found in droplets, unless its a wet fart in which case (A) Oooo Boy and (B) wet farts do not generally pass through Fabric, just make you walk funny. 🥵

I could demonstrate in person if you provide enough beer but then at the end of the demo I would have to drive all the way home with wet pants.