saddlebum

This is true and to be honest over the years I have seen the hose sometimes on #1 and sometimes on #2 and even experimented swapping it around myself and really did not notice any difference. Having it on #2, (if that is were it actually belongs) probably has more to do with location in relation to the sensors location .

I wear either a 3/4 or modular full face. Like Cimmer I wear glasses hence the modular. However my next full face will likely be solid since many models are built so you can replace your glasses after putting the helmet on.

Interesting and yet if you look at the parts diagram the plug is on #2 and the hose comes off #1 as per attached pic and more complete parts break down PDF.AIR Cleaner 1989 Yamaha XVZ13D VENTURE ROYALE.pdf

That is actually #1. Sitting on the bike, the left rear is #1, The left Front is #2, The right Rear is #3 and the right front is #4 and the hose goes to the left rear which is #1 not #2

Great news @Pasta Burner. Glad that you got to were your at, even if at times you took the long road to get there.

With the tires inflated higher, that high spot will eventually level down as long as most of your riding is straight line riding versus twisties. I would still take the tires to max air pressure. I have ridden mine at max air and had no ill effects.

What appears to look like an attempt to drill them out could also just be the bottom of the socket hole. I am more inclined to think that for one reason or another the heads snapped off, either from being over torqued or trying to use an impact driver and snapping the heads off (I have seen this type of head snap off like this on more than one occasion ). The way the bottom strap is marked around the hole would indicate something has been floating around in there. Maybe the bottom bolt snapped off for some reason and the tech snapped the heads off the top two in an attempt to remove the bearing so he could look behind it for debris. Definitely torque to yield one time use bolts. Torque to yield bolts have an engineered stretch factor built into them and this is why they are only meant to be used once My technique for removing broken bolts if drilling and easy out, will not work, is to place a copper washer around the hole and then a steel washer over the copper washer (this protects the base metal from the arc). I than weld the metal washer to the bolt filing the hole in the washer. Next a place a second larger washer over the first and weld the second washer to the first washer and weld again filling the hole. Sometimes I may add a third even larger washer. I will then weld a nut or bolt head to the final washer. let it cool right down an hour or so and then gently work the nut back and forth with a wrench slowly an d carefully remove the bolt. Do not try to force it in one move even if it moves a bit unless it is completely loosened. I will use this method even on recessed brake like the bottom bolt but that requires the use of a stick welder not a mig and a very steady hand. Sometimes a copper or brass sleeve slide into the hole will protect the sides from welding arc. If you wish to drill and but the bolt is too hard for a normal bit you can use a carbide drill (not a masonry bit) to drill it. I have even drilled out broken taps with these carbide drils. Keep in mind this bits are not cheap and are brittle a slight tweak will drilling can snap them in a heart beat. There are also diamond tipped drills for hard metals But I personally have not used them.

Definitely not a dumb question! Pulling that screw drains approx a 1/8 - 1/4 cup of additional engine oil. Some pull it, most can't be bothered, ( it is the one screw in the cover with a a copper washer under the head ), . However if you do make sure you always include the copper washer under the head preferably with a new one if possible.

They definitely DO NOT need to remove those bolts to work on the clutch slave or even the clutch itself, which is on the opposite side. However for easier access to remove and install the clutch slave some do remove the middle gear cover and this likely is when they spotted the broken bearing retainer bolts. As far as, is it possible that they broke the bolts? That would only occur if they removed them for some reason and reinstalled them but there is no reason other than replacing the middle gear bearing for them to even touch those bolts.

SNOWWWW Whats this talk about snow ? @Flyinfooljust what are you trying to pull

I doubt the Hannigan kit is responsible, those bolts on there are only keeper bolts to hold the two bearing retainer plates in place. The bearing is a ball bearing so unlike a taper bearing there is or should be little no side thrust unless there is an issue between the the angled middle gears such as a broken tooth or too much lash between the two gears because of worn bearings or improper shimming of the gears but since one bolt appears to still be in place unless it is loose, I am inclined to second guess that thought. So my 1st thought is this has been worked on before and the retaining bolts have been over torqued. The top two appear to have had the tops taken off while the lower bolt has a clean break. 2nd thought is the bolts loosened off for one reason or another allowing in and out sideways movement of the bearing under minor shock loads resulting in pounding of the bolts until they finally failed. 3rd thought is the drive line suffered some sort of shock load between the angled middle drive gears forcing the bearing outwards snapping the heads off two bolts and making a clean break of the third but which does not explain why the fourth bolt appears to be still intact unless it is loose. 4th thought binding or seizing u joints on the drive shaft can cause strain on the middle gears and bearings. Finally some foreign object or broken piece floating around in the gear box, so regardless of the cause, I would not just extract and replace the bolts. Remove the engine and gear box, open it up and do a thorough inspection checking all the bearings in case they have had debris go through them. I would also check the final drive for any defects including improper gear lash between crown and pinion. Too much gear lash could cause There may be other causes but these are the ones that hit the top of my list.

I would say run for a while and then check your plugs for a lean running condition. Another indicator of insufficient back pressure is backfiring at deceleration. So as long as your plugs do not show a lean running condition and you do not have a lot of backfiring you should be fine. If you do find your running too lean and are backfiring a lot on deceleration there is the risk of burning valves.

I would say run for a while and then check your plugs for a lean running condition. Another indicator of insufficient back pressure is backfiring at deceleration. So as long as your plugs do not show a lean running condition and you do not have a lot of backfiring you should be fine. If you do find your running too lean and are backfiring a lot on deceleration there is the risk of burning valves.

You forgot the part were after a full day of fishing they open the fridge door to show you a fish from the local market and proceed to tell you how it did not cost them a whole day and a tank or two of fuel as you stand there empty handed cause the fish were not biting.

I have also cut pieces of copper or stainless wire and melted them into the ABS across the cracks after grooving them out to act as a form of rebar. Has also been very effective.

If you working it right being told to go fishing is desirable vs being allowed. Being told can't come back on you were as being allowed could down the road in the form of "yes but you really didn't have to go! Did you?".

Though I am a fan of the PIAA bulbs I have used the Sylvania Ultra with no issue as have many on this site. Touching the glass with your fingers during install can cause any halogen bulb to burn out (not sure why) but if for some reason the glass was touched it should be well cleaned with alcohol. A faulty charging system that is spiking the voltage can also cause a filament to burn out or if it was dropped before install. Then again you may just have picked up a defective bulb.

The hose goes on cyl #1 but you often see it on #2 because #2 is often mistaken as #1 simply because it is the left front cyl. when in fact the left rear is #1 while the left front is actually #2. Re: the boots there are only 2 part numbers 26H-13586-00-00 and 26H-13596-00-00. The bike uses two of each. A1-2, A2-1, and A3-1 are more than likely mold or batch numbers and meaningless to us unless there was a recall on a certain batch related to some sort of defect in that particular batch

Considering they are Japanese bikes. Would that not be good thing?

Plastex also sold under the name of plastifix Sand all the pieces and bevel all the edges of all the loose pieces on a 45. If you don't want to repaint bevel one side only stopping at the edge of the paint. Use a tear drop carbide cutter on a dremel to gouge out the remaining cracks stop when you just start to see the inside edge of the primer or paint. Use aluminum duct tape on the out side to hold all the pieces together and seal the cracks. Clear packing tape works well to but the aluminum tape wont stretch. Aluminum tape comes in a variety of thickness's try for 3.5 to 4 thou if you can. Now start filling the v-grooves with the plastex/plastifix . Start by wetting the groove first with the liquid and then use one of the methods desribed to fill the groove (that is you can use the stitch method using the dropper needle or alternately wetting then sprinkling the powder into the groove. Don't worry about proportions just don't go too dry or too wet to were you are washing away the powder. Once the groove is filled higher than flush sand the entire surrounding area. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth, fiberglass drywall tape or aluminum house screen to cover the repair area. wet down the area with the solvent and build up a thin bed Lay in the patch material and embed it into the still soft bed of filler. Immediately start building up another bed on top of the reinforcing material. If you wish to repaint the area: After the inside has cured lightly groove out the cracks from the out side and sand away some of the paint along side the cracks fill the cracks and when cured enough, sand to a smooth finish. continue filling and sanding until you have a flawless surface (this stuff will sand baby butt smooth so no need to use spot putty just add and sand until perfect) Spray with and adhesion promoter for plastic than prime and paint.

Hate when that happens. You can try cleaning the hole out with brake clean and air pressure. Drop a tiny amount of JB Weld aluminum epoxy into the hole. Coat a slightly too long bolt with light grease or heavy oil and thread bolt in until it just about bottoms out after the epoxy has cured back the bolt out. wait at least 24 hours before reassembling. 50/50 chance it will work but have had good luck with this when I came across similar situations were someone ran in too long a bolt (usually happens with plastic rad tanks or two piece aluminum valve covers).