saddlebum

I agree with the d-linking the front brakes. Back when I first got my venture around 2006 the linked brake almost did me in when the front wheel locked on me trying to stop on a gravel and sand covered paved intersection while attempting to slow down with rear brake only. Two gentle attempts at using only rear brake caused my front wheel to slide out sideways and almost dropping the bike. I aborted a third attempt as it would only bring me to a stop in the middle of the intersection so I tucked my tongue back into my cheek, rolled hard on the throttle and shot the intersection. For the life of me I could not understand why my front wheel locked up while applying rear brake. Getting home I checked on the brake system and discovered the concept of linked brakes and decided one way or the other this had to go. I have since came to the conclusion that though this linked brake setup may be great for straight line stops on paved highways they are dangerous on corners were there is often loose gravel and probably why so many 1st gens have gone down in the corners.

Totally second the suggestion. For what boils down to $1.00 a month for what this site has to offer in so many ways is priceless.

Those Flat blade type connectors are notorious for loosing their tension and becoming loose. When they do they start to get hot which loosens them more and results in more heat. All this adds too poor connections and high resistance and arcing all creating more heat again. Over time as this cycle continues and intensifies things get to the pint were your currently at. I have seen dash fires cause by this cycle. You can buy what is referred to as a pigtail which is the connector complete with wire leads so you just have to splice it in place of the fried one. The one for the relay is commonly used in thousands of vehicles so will be easy to find just make sure it comes with the same or heavier gauge wire as the original. I would also replace the relay it may test OK but the internal points could be pitted or overheated make sure the amp rating of the relay is the same or higher. The pink one may be a little harder to find but it is a common configuration and so it should still be available you just may have to search on line by image.

For the class system to only come on with key in ACC is normal. I would take some soapy water and spray the entire system. Leaks could come from the lines or a failing solenoid valve as well as the air bag or front fork seals. The collars around the top of the front forks to which the air lines connect, have simple o-rings that may have dried out and failed. to replace the o-rings you need only slide the forks out enough to allow the collars to slip of the top end of the forks, replace the o-rings and slide it all back together.

You might want to check and see if your oil level is not too high. the air cleaner is dirty or the crankcase breather tube is not plugged (this is the small hose goes from the engine to the bottom of the air cleaner housing. Hopefully it is not a sign of bad oil control rings on the pistons.

Not normally

Even though the ventures are top heavy and mostly noticeable at crawl speeds you soon learn how to use your body to counter balance EG: don't lean with the bike as much as you would with a bike that has a lower center of gravity but let the bike lean under you as you would a tall MX bike. You'll figure it out quick enough. The other time you will notice it is standing still in which case if its going over Get out of the way. If your tall you can try and slow it down but no point in trying to stop it completely.

No Problem! Also check out the tech section here on the forum.

Usually a heaping table spoon to a cup of water is the proportion. using this as a guide line mix up a couple quarts or a gallon and soak down everything. Let it sit a while to neutralize the acid but rinse before it fully dries.

Its not a matter of how much juice, its how much vapor that juice no matter how little juice remains, creates. That vapor is explosive and can be set off by the smallest spark or arc. The lower the fluid level in the battery the more likely it is to boil and give of gas.

I agree with djh3 and since the tread looks OK I would run them to max PSI stated on the tires side wall this will but more wear to the center of the tire. Just be careful and get a proper feel for the tires handling, in corners especially.

Or dirty contacts in the handle bar switch which is easy to clean.

Seeing as how I will be spending some time this afternoon with " He who shall not be named ", I shall refrain from any further comment.

I am not as well versed on the second gens as I am on the 1st gens but these links and PDF,s should help some. https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/500454acf8700209bc792a9f/electrical-2 12413245_RSVserviceManual-2012.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture electrical info.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture schematic.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram Rev B.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

With all the issues you have been having and considering the PITA it is to R&I the carb I would do a complete tear down and total overhaul. At this point there is no point in picking away at it and constantly retracing your steps. In the end you will be glad you did.

Its called sometimers .....Some times you just forget.

There are aftermarket rear shock and spring assembly around but any I have seen still incorporate an air bag. If I am not mistaken Bongobobny but an aftermarket in his old 84. Maybe @Jayceesfollycould check to see which brand it was since he now owns Bob,s old 84.

I have no issue using the battery tender on my AGM Battery as it only chargers when needed because it monitors battery voltage. Before I got the battery tender I used one of those timers you just plug into the wall outlet and plugged a cheap 2 amp trickle charger to it, which I left hooked to the bike all winter. I then set the timer to turn the trickle charger on for an hour each day. It work great.

It can, Back in 76 I had it happen to me coming of the highway I went around the ramp so fast I thought my knees were going to scrape. To this day I still do not know how it was I did not wipe out specially since the bike had trials tires on it. That was with my 1975 Canam 250 TNT. The carb mounting boot had a split in it.

Seen that happen on many occasions. Once even to me when I was a new apprentice hooking up to a set of 4 batteries on a transport truck. Main cause is either the charger cable are put on back wards or the battery is boiling for one reason or another such as getting over heated while trying to start a vehicle or over charging it both of which can cause boiling and the formation of hydrogen gas. The formed hydrogen gas explodes if for some reason there is a spark, either from a lose arcing connection or during the connecting of live booster cables or live charger cables. I once got showered in sulfuric acid when a battery blew on a lift truck. Me and another mechanic walked by a lift truck that was over charging so without thinking he just grabbed and yanked off the cable. The resulting spark caused an explosion and we both got showered. The battery may have gassed when you tried cranking the truck and then the spark from hooking up the charger caused the explosion. This is why you always connect you + cable to the battery 1st and then your - cable to a good ground point on the vehicle someplace away from the battery. I have seen garages burn down because a battery on a work bench hooked up to a charger boiled over filling the garage with hydrogen gas which was set off by a spark.

Also a vacuum leak between the bottom of the carb and the head can sometimes cause a slow return idle.

What are you laughing at ? I have seen him do it once at the gas pumps..

There is no such thing as asking too many questions because we all love to help were we can. Nor need you feel too dumb about these bikes since you can only get smarter and more knowledgeable about these bikes, through the more than willing help and advice of the membership. The main reason this site was formed was to share knowledge that is unavailable through other means, even bike shops do not have the knowledge this site has. There is a side effect however which I am sure was unforeseen by the founder of this site. You run the risk of forming strong off line friendships. You will find the members here are not just on line friends as many of us have formed strong in person friendships through rally's, meet and eats and meet and greets. Some of have formed friendships as far back as 15 years or more through this site and some of those friendships are still going strong to this day. Many members that live close enough together, help each other and that often includes newbies. The monitors here do a fantastic job in keeping this site in a PG state, clean and free of foul language and hurtful comments and any subject that gets too controversial to were it starts to turn ugly is shut down. All in all this site sets a high standard not seen in many other forums.

They will move with the air box off if not binding. If they are try spraying a bit of sea foam on them and gently try moving them a few times with the flat side of a large screw driver and they should slide back in place when you remove the screwdriver. Its not uncommon for them to stick sometimes usually if the bike has been sitting. If they still wont move freely remove the sliders and check for debris in the bore or on the sliders. If they move freely with the screwdriver and return freely on their own check the diaphragms for holes or tears

My luck with tweezers has not been the best when ever I think tweezers would be great they usually end up flipping whatever I am holding further away than if I just tried with my fingers.