saddlebum

That Bosch relay is a different animal. If you look at the schematic on the side of the case 87 and 87a are both normally open and joined together internally. The relay Du-Rron is showing is different in that terminal 87 is normally open and terminal 87a is normally closed they are separated internally making it a switch over relay. So @Du-Rronmake sure you match up with the same type relay. The extra Diode in some relay's is to prevent a voltage spike from occurring when the relay is switched off preventing damage to voltage sensitive circuits. If the original did not have the added diode you can use either but if the original had the diode than you should replace it with the same. The one you show in the picture does not have the diode. That box with slanted line in it indicates the operating coil in the relay and which terminals go to that operating coil . If it had a diode you would see a triangle with a line across one of the points beside the little box, which indicates the diode. Also if the relay has a diode the +12v line must go to pin 86 and the neg or ground to 85. If there is no diode the pos and neg wires across 86 an 85 can be hooked up either way.

J For those who did not know Jim he is the one in the shorts.

So I have and he is very upstanding and stands behind what he sells.

A fully charged battery will fair better at freezing temps than at warm temps as long as it remains charged. Only when it is discharged will it be at risk of freezing. So if you don't but a charger on it disconnect the ground to eliminate any parasitic draw. A battery tender is ideal but if you use a trickle charger, put it on one of those wall timers and set it to charge for an hour a day, This is what I used to do before I got the battery tender and it worked perfectly. My bike sits outside all winter and I simply plug a battery tender on it and forget it until spring. There has been the odd year I forgot and the bike still fired up in the spring. I have a Deka Agm and it is currently heading into year seven.

Glad your making progress.

I would have practiced on the wheel barrow 1st to hone my skills. But you did a great job just the same. Looking forward to seeing pics of the finished bike.

Quite often those cheaper plugs though they are manufactured by the same company that makes the quality plugs simply do not go through the quality check. I once dated a girl that worked for GE.. She was on the quality check line. Canadian tire for example sold GE bulbs as well as their own brand and at a much lower price. Customers were told that the house brand were by GE and were the same bulbs just packaged in Canadian tire boxes. The girl I dated at the time informed me this was true with one exception. She would have the day off when GE packaged for Canadian tire because they went directly into the boxes skipping the quality check line and by doing so manufacturing costs were cut on the bulbs, so you could get a good one but you might also get a bad one.

Praying you all have a quick recovery and minimal effects.

If your bike still has the glass fusses I recommend updating to the blade type fuse.

Sorry to hear about your wife I hope its only a relative mild case. We almost lost both my sister and brother in law to covid. They both were hospitalized for a month and a half, placed on ventilators and at one point we thought we were going to loose them. Miraculously the pulled through though my sister in law has had to under go three surgery's to repair damaged vocal cords from her trying to rip out the ventilator. The cords were healing together which means instead of parting and closing as she breathes they would block her air flow causing her to choke and unable to breath. If this third surgery does not succeed her only option is a tracheotomy. So far things are looking hopeful.

With a Philips bit on a 1/4 drive socket on a long wobble extension or flex joint on a 1/4 inch ratchet you should be able to reach up from the bottom without removing the exhaust. You may have to raise the tank a bit to sneak the petcock out because of the stand pipe which is about two inches long.

This is really sad news for sure, and he will most definitely be missed. Jim was an outstanding member and a good friend. I will particularly always remember the trip we took together to the Guntersville AL rally. Taking our time and travailing the scenic back roads through the Appalachian mountains all the way down. Prayers said for Jim

Lets hope it all sticks. It won't bring the lady back as they say but maybe the severe punishment will send a message. Both Canada and the US are getting far too lenient on hard core criminals and street punks.

Check out Slip Streamer and Clearview. Both will make custom dimensions from the standard dimensions if requested. I got mine through Clear view and found them excellent to deal with. Even when there was a slight barely noticeable defect in the windshield they were extremely good about sending me another one. The defect was so slight That I would have ignored except that it happen to be right in my sight line. Clearview Shields info@clearviewshields.com 800 798 6089 Email: info@slipstreamer.com Phone: (763) 780-9757

Just strip the paint off They are all black underneath....

This is true He did stay in contact with the best of us ............During his sabbatical from the site.

Looking good

Very sweat looking bike. What happened to the cavalcade?

Up here its deer season every day,,,,,,,would you grab me a beer please deer......

Most people settle for a garage sale ......But Nooo you had to go one better didn't you.

Now that you mention it

Just saying a NAP is not good enough. For an experienced napper such as yourself that may be all the info that is required but there are a lot of newbies on here and they may require more in depth detail about proper napping or they may mess it up.

If its electronic I would start with checking the road speed sensor for loose or faulty connections. Disconnect the sensor and check resistance across the wires. Most two wire sensors read between 800 and 1800 ohms depending on make You may find the proper number in the spec section of the shop manual. Next with the meter still hooked up but set to AC volts or AC milli volts (the sensor produces an AC voltage signal) slowly start rotating the wheel increasing the speed You should see a steady and smooth climb in voltage as the wheel speeds up and a steady reading if you spin the wheel at a fixed speed. If this all checks out check all connections from sensor to control module to gauge. Last try another gauge if you can get your hands on one. If its a Mechanical gauge check your speedo cable. If its dry or starting to fray it can spin in an erratic manner causing the gauge to jump all over the place. If it checks out OK and is only dry re-lube it and retest the speedo. If it still acts up try another speedo head. If its pretty much the end of the ridding season park the bike and maybe over the winter the issue will disappear.

Welcome back to the site Ray.