saddlebum

I really like that Idea and it looks simple to build. Its much along the lines of something I was thinking about as an alternative to the mini horse trailer idea I was think of a while back with my 1st Airedale Jake before he past away, though the idea I had in mind was not as nice looking as this one. Some tubing a bender a welder and some material to upholster it with and the job is a s good as done. The way the trunk mounts on the first gen it would be easy to make it a convertible set up so you can switch back and forth. Rio is good in a canoe so I have no concerns about his behavior. I must admit going down would be a concern for his safety so that part I would have to think long and hard about.

I have been planning to build a mini replica of a horse trailer to take my Airedale along on trips for some time now.

Here is to the guru of bike camping. Good old Cowpuc.

I remember those. Sadly we don't see as many ventures as we used to. Specially the cream of the crop ahead of its time 1st gens.

If this is who I think it is I can't believe he is still hanging on to his grudge. He used to be a member here and I met him in person once while out on a ride and boy did he rant me an ear full when he noticed the venture rider sticker on my windshield. I could not get out of that doughnut shop fast enough. That had to be 10 or 15 years ago when membership was free and Don had requested a membership fee to help offset costs. I am sure he has brainwashed a few people into his way of thinking he sure tried it on me. I simply told him think what you will But that I was sure there were costs involved in running the site not to mention Don's Time and commitment to keeping the site in top shape. PG clean and slander free. Also told him if the rest of us are willing to pay a tiny annual fee for such a great forum that probably paid us back tenfold in savings and shared knowledge that's our free choice no one is forcing us and not for him to judge or criticize. Then I got out real quick before he could respond with more of his rhetoric. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK DON. and get better we still need you. P/S if some one wants to accuse me of drinking the lemonade, all I can say is its the best darned tasting lemonade around! Refill please

I like that conversion plus you get to see were your fluid level is at.

Not sure why this did not post last night but I will re post. The sensor sits in one of the fill hole caps and serves to indicate Electrolyte level. It simply tells you that the water level in that cell is getting low assuming that if it is low the other cells probably are too and that you need to add water to the battery. It does not indicate overall battery condition or voltage. When you install a sealed battery or GSM you have two options (1) ride with the light on or (2) do a cheat by pass. Here is the link to doing the bypass.

As stated in an earlier post this bikes do not run well with the air box off if at all. but if it runs at 5,000 rpm once you put the air box on you may want to check the idle speed screw setting its on the left side of the carbs and it has knob on it so you can turn it with your fingers, it could be screwed in too far. Throttle cables may also be adjusted too tight or may even be seized or binding. Balance screws may be way out of adjustment as well.

Very well put but I did have to go refill my coffee.

Due to covid I have not done any recently but over the years it has been my go to means of traveling on the Motorcycle and will probably continue to be. I just love sleeping outdoors. Used to even sleep outdoors at home but increased night time traffic noise has ruined that for me.

Very sorry to hear about your relapse Don. Will send a prayer for you and hope things work out. Regarding the site I for one will continue to be a member and hopefully as we deal with and hopefully defeat this covid issue things will slowly return to normal. Last of all I for one appreciate the time and effort you have given to maintain this site and feel it is one of the best run sites on the web. Regarding face book I have no interest in face book at all and have never ever signed up for it.

Another beauty of this site. You get more than one option/suggestion as to how best to deal with an issue, including the pro's and con's of doing certain tasks certain ways. BTW those proportioning valves I mentioned in my earlier post are notorious for building up crud in them.

Sometimes the easiest solution is just to dig in and do a complete overhaul rather than nit pick at things trying to find the cause. Since for the most part this is the off season for riding, remove overhaul or replace calipers and master cylinders and any other valves ( rebuild kits are usually not bad to acquire but clean and inspect the parts you intend to overhaul before you order kits ). Replace the hydraulic lines with stainless lines (you may even want to go the de-link route while your at it), not only does this give you independent front and rear wheel braking but it also eliminates the proportioning valve ). Note: some who de-link their brakes block one port on the proportioning valve, I prefer to remove it completely and connect the line from the rear caliper directly to the master. By biting the bullet and just digging right in and doing thorough overhaul of the brake system you will save yourself a lot of headaches down the road. Skydoc here on the site is a good source of parts for de-linking the brakes as he sells a complete kit which I believe includes cover plates to eliminate the anti-dive valves on the front forks (if do the elimination of the anti-dive valves I suggest replaceing the stock fork springs with progressive springs (if they have not already been replaced by a previous owner ) as this was a very common upgrade on these bikes. All very worth while in doing.

If it is one of the two tubes at the bottom of the rad. They are soldered in. You will have to remove the rad and unless you are really good at soldering ( rads can be tricky since not enough heat will give a poor joint and too much can cause other areas to de-solder ), you will have to take it to rad shop to repair. Other option is to find another rad.

What mess? Looks normal to me

Based on what your saying I would say after applying the brakes a few times they did not release properly due to blocked return passage add to that calipers which may already be pretty much seized. As a result the added friction likely causing rotors and pads to overheat. Combining several factors hot expanding rotors overheating metallic pads and even the fluid if it gets hot enough could expand all contributing to a lock up situation. I have even seen Metalic pads get hot enough to actually partially weld them selves to the rotors. Signs of this may show on the rotors themselves as rough or blue spots.

Garage and yard sales also make it difficult. In my case what ever resolution I make you can guarantee I will do the exact opposite and ten times worse than if I had not made the resolution to start with.

Kinda sounds like something I need to do as well. May even need some intervention help. But not from my wife she will toss everything out

Heck you have not even hit the record in the asking questions department. So since you have a long way to go ask away. BTW those of us in the know love to assist, some of us even started out as you are doing now. This site is all about sharing knowledge and the questions even help us in the know because it gives us the chance to remember stuff that we sometimes forget or challenge us with a new problem to test our know how and diagnostic skills. Glad you decided to join. True we got a little off track the past couple years with the whole covid thing and all but hopefully come this year we will all be back on the subject of our bikes, a much better topic anyway. You will not regret joining and may even develop new friendships with members in your area. As they say birds of a feather flock together and we are definitely a bunch of fun loving bird brains

Could use a bit more info on the brake issue. I am not sure if your saying they locked up or that they did not and you did not state if you were applying both foot and hand brake or just one or the other.

I get that. I have spent hours searching for air leaks on transport trucks which have miles of air lines, fittings and air bags unable to find any, yet the customer insists it looses air over night. Sometimes you have to add extra soap to the water spray everything down and wait a few minutes. The tell tale is sometimes nothing more than a very slight foaming at the leak. Also check the exhaust ports and or open ended lines near the solenoid valves. Cover the hole or end of hose very lightly with a wet soapy finger. Its possible the valves are leaking internally and allowing air to escape through the exhaust port. If your not sure were they are with the compressor assembly uncovered, lower the pressure using the buttons on the class control panel. As you do this you will hear were the air is escaping as the system dumps air, these are your exhaust ports. they should seal up tight other than when dumping air. If air is leaking out of these other than when lowering the suspension than the valves are faulty and need to be replaced.

If you only need the diaphragms and the sliders are in good shape try out this place http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html I have purchase from them a couple times and highly recommend them. Read entire page before you buy though in case you prefer to stick to OEM style. Pay particular attention the the note highlighted in yellow near the bottom of the page referencing the venture

Nice I love it. Here is what I built to move snow. And the blade with 4x4 draw bar removed is light enough to carry under one arm or toss up on the rafters for the summer. I can angle the blade behind the truck are out past either side of the truck or even turn it completely around to push the snow rather than pull. The whole thing only takes fifteen minutes to mount to my trailer hitch. It worked so well the first year that the driveway hardly got any snow the last two years I didn't even have to use it.

I have come to the conclusion I need not worry about my diet. I will most likely die of brain strain from trying to keep up with all the pro's and con's, do's and don't s in the never ending quest of doing the right thing only to find out it is now the wrong thing and then back to the right thing to try and stay healthy.