saddlebum

Here is a list of some of the key blank numbers that may work that I have put together a few years ago, Just make sure to match the long grooves and configuration. Also I found the long grooves do not have to be a dead on match a slight discrepancy is allowed just make sure the blank slides in and out of your ignition switch smoothly before cutting the blank. Some place will allow you to purchase the blank to try and return later to cut it or exchange it for another blank. In my case I have my own key cutting machine so I just buy the blanks and cut them myself. 1228 or 1227 , X117 or YH48 , X118 OR YH49 , YH29RP-SI , YH29RBP , YH29RP , YH29R , YN-59 , YMA-191 , YM37L , X114 or DA24 , X260 , X241 or SUZ18 , SZ10RP , SZ14RAP , X179 or SUZ12 , X276 or SUZ16 ,

Its a cut copy of a venture key cut from a X118 / YH49 iIlco blank fits 89 and possibly 87 to 89. DA24 is another blank that can be used as well as some of the datsun blanks (but those are long but can be shortened in the key cutter. There is a X117 / YH48 blank which has the opposite configuration also used. The ealier ventures used a similar key but with less or no grooves down its length also with a left or right configuration

So what advice are you after. I only see pics of a good looking bike. I am guessing its an 89.

I actually like the DL cream hand cleaner better than goop. Have used it for years does not dry your hands out and since I do not have water in my garage its great that it just wipes off with a rag or paper towel. Because I use it without water i get the stuff without grit as I find the grit difficult to wipe off when used without water. I have a dispenser specifically for it which does a great job in keeping it fro liquefying the way it would if you left it sitting open. and even if it does it still works. otherwise just transfer some into a smaller container. As I mentioned earlier I also found quite by accident that in a pinch mane and tail shampoo used full strength without water is also very effective. Just rub until the dirt liquefies and then rinse or wipe off.

Hi Peggy glad to see your still staying in touch.

I use the old fashioned white water-less hand cleaner with lanolin. Being as how I clean my hands a dozen times or so a day I find the orange stuff drys my hands out and become more and more difficult to clean. If they are really dirty, Like working on a big fifth wheel, I pre-clean them with transmission oil prior to using the hand cleaner. I rarely wear the gloves as I find them difficult to work with and get used to. Lately I have found using mane and tail horse shampoo, full strength with out water to be very effective. Just use like water-less hand cleaner and once the grease and grime is fully liquefied rinse with water.

open the fuel bowl drain and disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the faulty carb. Then connect a hose from a can of carb cleaner to the the fuel inlet pipe and flush it through letting the cleaner drain out through the carb drain. If your careful you can follow up by blowing compressed air through at a controlled very low pressure make sure the fuel bowl drain is still open.

Bicycle shops have a great selection and yes go for the progressive or two stage type. single stage easy to pump style takes too long and single stage fast pumps get hard to push when the pressure's get high.

Definitely sounds like he disconnect wires prior to performing clutch job and then reconnected one in the wrong spot, Should not be a big issue to diagnose for a shop that's worth its salt, 15 minutes at the most.

I never said it weren't dual purpose......

Not to mention your likely to wear the thingy out and then expect full warranty.

Ya thats what @Marcarlkeeps telling me. I guess one day I will find out for myself if its True.

Thanks Freebird. Please don't Tell @Marcarl. He will complain that he has to retype everything a third time (whether he has to or not) just for something to say

Disagree! Go to the pet shop and pick up a large dog, dog crate pad. One that is covered in HD vinyl. you will love it.

Yes they are by about 2" longer. You can get them in 3 different lengths if I remember and they are easy to swap out you simply undo the Allen bolt in the pad remove the short adaptor and replace it with the longer one. You can find all sorts of configurations as well on thier web site https://www.kuryakyn.com/category/42/highway-cruise-pegs

Mine are the same and I love them. However because of were I mounted them I replaced the std tapered peg adaptors with the 2 1/2" extended ones.

I mounted one with a hose clamp to my side bag crash bar behind my foot the other I had some extra Ram mount pieces that modified to work with cup holder and mounted it on my handle bar.

Do you still have the old clutch pack? If so stack the two stacks side by side and make sure the overall height is the same rather than counting the number of discs. Did your kit come with an extra disck to replace the partial disc? and if so did you discard the wire keeper or did you reinstall it? The keeper the two spacer discs and the half disc should be discarded provided the kit came with an extra disc to replace it. The part I cannot remmeber is whether the barnett pack came with an extra disc to replace it or whether I had to buy an additional friction disc. to replace the partial disc its washers and wire retainer. Check to make sure your hydraulic system is full releasing pressure on the slave cylinder. Also make sure there is a little free play in the lever when full released. If it is set too tight it may not be fully releasing the clutch There is a shoulder/ ridge on the pressure plate make sure it is properly seated in the basket when you tighten the retaining bolts and tighten them in a staggered pattern.

or interactions with other drugs or supplements. Think about it, even grapefruit or diary products are to be avoided when taking some medications but unless someone tells us you would never know or even think about that.

Or you could try that I just thought the class system would cut out before that. Seeing as how my pressure gauge displays in kg/cm² which show me 1 to 6 instead of 14 to 85 like it would in PSI, it never dawned on me how high the class system would actually allow the pump to go before it cut it off. Never realized when my display showed a 6 that I actually had 85 PSI in my air bag. Man I sure would not want that to suddenly blow under my tush

I having been toying with this idea myself for some years but never got around to it. I think it could work as these little guys seem to be quite robust in comparison to some tire inflatters I have seen over the years, many which are quite small such as the one put out by slime. . Given that they are small and would have to run for a fairly long time to inflate a tire, over-heating could be a very strong possibility, though the head seems to have decent fins to control head temperature. I would experiment with a good spare compressor before risking one on the bike. If you did do this you would have to wire in a by pass for both electrics and air line. This could be easily accomplished using a switch. a relay with 5 terminals 87 being normally open and 87a being normally closed plus a 12 volt controlled 3 way air solenoid. You can get these at most truck shops since they are used to control lift axles etc. If you did move forward here is how I would go about it. Wire connections would be +12 volts to switch, from switch to pin 86 and solenoid +12v , Cut compressor +12v wire, compressor to terminal 30. other cut end to terminal 87a, +12v supply to 87, 85 and solenoid neg to ground. Remove compressor air line at compressor and connect to port marked NO (normally open) run line form compressor to port marked supply or in. Run line for inflating tires to port marked NC (normally closed) NOTE sometimes the ports may be marked SUP, DEL and EXH instead of NO, NC and IN but the valves still work the same you just have to work out which is related to which.

Sometimes Doctors do believe in supplements or witches brews, but their hands are often tied when it comes to recommending some of them because of certian professional standards they must adhere to.

Just see what happens. If you heat and dunk it you could make the metal too brittle if its high in carbon such as cast steel, if you dunk it too soon and too soft if you let it cool naturally. It all depends on the steel. If you where to heat it (and this is just an educated guess ) I would be inclined to let it cool naturally about 50% than dunk it in water or oil.

Looks like the wear is in the frame eye. OPTION 1; It there is plenty of meat drill out both frame bracket and kick stand to accept a larger diameter bolt. OPTION 2; As long as there is enough meat and only the frame bracket is worn, slowly drill it out until you end up with a round hole or close to round hole and fit the hole with a steel bushing that has an inner hole same as bolt size. Try to get a snug fit but a sliding fit as long as there is no play is fine. Coat both hole and outside of bushing with Loctite's green sleeve and bearing set. Wait a few minutes, wipe away any excess and reassemble. BTW green Loctite will fill a void up to 0.020" securely.

Sounds like an excuse to me. More profitable to sell a complete lock and ignition system than to be accommodating..... but who am I to say