saddlebum

The way I test for parasitic draw disconnect the ground cable. hook a multi-meter set to the 10 amp setting between the ground cable and ground post. If the reading is more than 1 amp start pulling fuses until the amp reading drops. If the initial amp reading is less than 1 amp switch to the milliamp scale. Anything above 50 milliamps indicates a parasitic draw. Again start pulling fuses until it drops. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading reinstall it. Next find the any connectors to which that fuses circuits run through. The minute you pull a connector apart and the reading drops off reconnect it and go to the next connector. if for example the next connector or connectors make no difference than than you have a short some where between the two connectors. If however the second or third connector do make a difference continue to disconnect subsequent connectors until your down to the end of the circuit or circuits. Next disconnect the items that circuit powers up until your meter shows no draw. NOTE: if you do not have a multi meter a test light or bulb and pig tail makes a reasonable substitute. Connect one end of the test light to the neg battery post and the other end to the disconnected cable. If there is no draw the light should be off (or very dim due to things like clock and radio memory voltage). But if it is glowing even if not full bright Follow the same steps as above until there is a significant drop in the brightness of the bulb.

Another way is to place a drop on some white paper the oil will spread slowly while the fuel will spread quickly so if your blot has a lighter outer ring spreading out faster than the darker inner spot you likely have fuel in your oil.

Expecting some accurate feed back on the knees. I knee'd to know.

I have ran the 404 and my only issue with them is how poorly they handle road snakes and asphalt after the surface has been ground for resufacing. I have ran E2 E3 and currently E4 on my bike and have got great millage and handling from them approx 20k km / 12k miles. They do tend to loose cornering grip in their final days so that is something to be aware off. I also never had the road noise that so many seem to comment on with these tires.

Best bet is to go onto a Harley forum. They are the experts when it comes to trailering bikes.

First stop is 1pm, Tim Hortons on the South side of Paris - Rest Acres Rd. from there we trip over to, Twisted Treats, 79 King Edward Street, Paris Ontario, Canada. https://paristwistedtreats.ca/

I am currently on year eight with my Deka AGM and it is still going strong. Generally keep on a battery tender through the harshest winter months but I have had years where I have forgot to hook it up and I never disconnect the battery from the bike, yet still the bike would just barely crank over. I would then put it on the battery tender overnight and it would be good for another season. If it is dropping off as fast as you say I would suspect a parasitic drain condition try disconnecting the ground cable from you battery when you store the bike and see if it still occurs.

First let me welcome you to the site. Also if your free on Aug 6th some of us Ontario members are hoping to have a little get together in Paris. You should come and introduce yourself. As far as the whine goes it is pretty much a normal thing with these bikes. Some have replaced the clutch basket but I believe many of us myself included just learned to live with it.

👍👍👍

Normally I would be inclined to disagree. The speedometer and odometer use the same signal produced by the speed sensor which measures the wheels revolutions per mile or kilometer then this signal is translated into miles or Km per hour by the speedometer and total miles or km coverd by the odometer of the rolling wheel. A smaller tire will have more revolutions per mi/km and a larger one will have fewer revolutions per mi/km. So by putting a smaller dia tire or wheel on the bike the speedometer will make it appear the bike is going faster than it actually is and the odometer will make it appear the bike is covering more mi/ km than it really is and the reverse is true if using a bigger dia tire since it will have fewer revolutions per mile. Since both speedometer and odometer utilize the same signal if one is out so is the other. If one is corrected so is the other. The only discrepancy to this is if the needle itself on the speedometer is out of calibration while the odometer is within or closer calibrated. In that case than yes the healer would become a double edged sword. I would love to see the cluster of a second generation since I have to wonder if there is a calibration adjustment on the speedo head since many electronic speedo heads do have one. On the 1st generation you can correct the speedo by very carefully bending the needles return springs anchoring tab and increasing or decreasing spring tension until you have achieved accurate speedometer readings.

Your very welcome always feels good when your able to be of some assistance and improve someones day. Good luck with the carbs. Chances are the needle seats are stuck open due to debris. Be careful how you remove the seats if you plan on reusing them because they are easily marked if you just try to use a straight punch. Some where I have a pic of how I remove them which I wiĺl post when I find it. One method I have used in the past is replace the needle with a few close fitting balls from a ball bearing and carefully placed a punch against the final ball and tap out the seat. Because the punch will be on an angle tap carefully.

Almost makes you wish it came with a transparent replacement cover. How cool would that be?

Without a doubt REPLACE IT. Last thing you need is a tread to fly off while ridding.

May the angels guide him in his new journey to the Lords side.

Your right I meant to say Larger molecule (my bad). Any way here is a clip from one of our service bulletins at work From GM who as I stated earlier neither recommends or discourages nitrogen use in tires. Nitrogen use in on road vehicle tires. A common explanation: “The larger-sized molecules of this gas compared to atmospheric air means less slow leaks caused by air bleeding out of porous alloy rims.” Nitrogen makes up 78 per cent of the air we breathe, so 100 per cent nitrogen isn’t likely to have much effect in holding tire pressure on old and corroded wheels as suggested within the industry. It is perceived that it will let tires run cooler, which is why race cars and airplanes use nitrogen.” It’s highly unlikely that a minivan or SUV will have its tires subjected to the extremes that track cars and jets experience, so like less air leaks, this benefit is highly doubtful. The only benefit of using nitrogen is less pressure variation with temperature changes. Repair shop air compressors, air-lines and air-powered wheel tools are subjected to a lot of moisture contamination. Even the best shops that drain the water from their compressors daily and use water traps on every bay’s air-line can have high water content in their compressed air. When they fill tires, this water goes in with the air, causing increase in air pressure when the tires warm up; the moisture droplets expand, increasing the pressure. When temperatures drop the moisture droplets contract, decreasing pressure. Nitrogen is compressed for transport and shop use under processes that ensure low water content resulting in more consistent pressures.

Nitrogen compresses and decompressed at a constant rate unlike air which compresses and decompresses at unstable rates. This why Nitrogen is used in some shocks. Used in tires it maintains a more consistent pressure unlike air which can increase and decrease in pressure signicantly with temperature fluctuations. It has a larger molecule so it is less inclined to leak and it does not hold moisture like air does therefore reducing wheel rim corrosion. Is the benefit significant enough to warrant using it in car tires? Not according to most car manufactures. GM for example in their bulletin on the subject neither recommend nor discourage its use. The only tires it has proven to have significant advantages in are heavy aircraft and race cars. In passenger cars it's more of a selling feature than anything else.

Were did you get it from?

If that gear looks fine the only other thing I can think of is the rubbing blocks for the timing chain it's possible that a piece of that may have broke off. But it has been a while since I had my nose in there so I'm not 100% sure.

There is still another fuse down the left side of the battery close to the starting relay. It's not like most fuses we are used to seeing. Its easier to see if you remove the left side radio and dash panel. The case is a black base with a clear cover which you remove from the base.and has 2 red 12 gauge wires connected to it with white connectors. The fuse itself is a thin blade mounted between 2 screws. In most cases in a little pocket to the side of the fuse within the same fuse holder you may find spare fuse blades which look like thin metal straps with a hole on each end. Alternatively you could replace it with a maxi fuse and 10 guage pigtail as shown below.

I assume this is the part your after. https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/41R-83350-71-00?ref=7835f3c394661b9897800e68b12e5b5c73bfd9af

KInda gotta say, sorta forgot about it over the years but once I dug it out my head just got flooded with memories. When I stored it I flooded the crankcase and cyilnder with oil. removed the carb cleaned and dried it and put it in a sealed container. Having said all that she should fire up fine if I ever decide to but will likely smoke something fierce for the first while. Normally I would be concerned for the neighbors but since they have no issue filling my open windows with weed smoke I guess they can share in my smoke of choice LOL

Actually can am was formed in 1972 as a spin off of Bombardier Inc which was founded in 1942, started by a guy who patented a design for the first dual track snow machine in 1935 and created the first skidoo in 1959. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Can-Am_motorcycles

Decided to do a major clean out of my back shed and this old girl which I bought brand new in 1975 surfaced,

If you look at my previous pics you will see white tabs. they were formed by taking a mold with the putty that comes in the plastifix kit then placed in place of the missing tab, filled with plastifix and reinforced with fiberglass cloth imbedded with more plastifix. BTW I repaired and painted the bike in 2007 and has held up since.

Which side do you need the inner for. I may have an extra one. Plastex/Plastifix do wonders for repair. Inlaying some fiberglass cloth or stainless wire mesh really reinforces the repair. I even made one good fairing out of too bad ones by cutting out the bad sections and combining the good sections by joining them with plastifix and reinforcing with fiberglass mesh.