saddlebum

Get a torx bit slightly larger than the socket hole in bolt. Grind the end of it flat so you end up with sharp corners. Grind lightly so you don't heat the end of the bit or keep cool with water. Now drive it into the end of the bolt. The now sharp corners will cut matching grooves in head and as well the tapping action of driving the bit in will help break the threads loose. Put a socket or wrench, on the bit once you have driven ti all the way in and carefully and gentle wiggle back and forth until you feel start to move. Once it starts to move continue the back and forth movement from stopping point to stopping point until it fully loosens and you can easily back the bolt all the way out. If you have not rounded the hole out yet, try putting the proper fitting allen bit in the bolt and wack it a few times with a hammer like your trying to drive it deeper and than follow the back and forth motion described above. Avoid using too much force as you work it back and forth.

You can. You will however notice a slightly softer and longer stroke feel on the lever at the same time quicker front brake response. It may take you a few stops to get use to the different feel.

And drive up insurance cost for all of us.

Water cooled is a big part in controlling emission's since cylinder temp hence exhaust temps can be more readily controlled. If exhaust temps are too high you create NOX (nitrous oxide) emissions and if they are too low you create particulate matter (soot and carbon) emissions. This is were automatics (though many of us prefer standards) come in, by controlling shift points, you add another means of controlling exact fuel ratio and exhaust temps, as well as fuel economy.

I Just got rid of the proportioning valve and delinked the brakes. Had too many situations were the front brake locked up on slippery or gravel surfaces causing the front wheel to slide out side ways on me even at the lightest touch of using the rear brake pedal only.

Also study your schematics and see if there is any commonality with the wiring circuits of the speedometer and interlock switch. You may even have a situation were the interlock switch signal is back feeding through the speedometer signal canceling out the speed signal. This could be the result of a dirty or open circuit in the interlock circuit resulting in currant taking an alternate path through the speedometer circuit canceling out the speedometer.

It is definitely a shame! I love my 1st gen and to me some refinements to that would have been ok in my book. Heel toe or not I think should be something flexible in the design so each individual can choose what they want as well as the option to have forward pegs or floor boards or underbody foot pegs (my favorite, a real back saver in my book). The design should also incorporate the bikes ability to handle a small degree of off road, which I found the 1st gen not too bad at. Quick lock removable bags (but rattle free design) would be nice as well. A Harley clone to me is just effort after foolishness since if someone wants a Harley they will just buy a Harley. When I ride by Harleys being pushed at a busy border crossing or stop and go traffic on a hot day, I am so grateful for my 1st Gen. I want a bike for its reliability and its rideability on a variety of not so perfect surfaces, not its fashion factor.

Also its not uncommon for these bikes to run a bit sluggish if they sat this long. Before you get to far into it, put some fresh gas in it add some seafoam or other carb cleaning additive and ride it hard. keeping the rpms to the high side. Often a good highway run is all that is needed after a long sit. If things do not improve after this than start looking into possible causes. Start by trying one the hotshot methods of cleaning and flushing the carb. ON BIKE CARB DEEP CLEANING.pdf Cleaning First Gen Carbs On The Bike.pdf

I too fit this category and also get accused by my boss who is younger than my 1st three kids and used to be my apprentice, of being resistant to change. However I am a big advocate of keeping life simple and comfortable rather than complicated and having to constantly keep up with change. I like stuff that is self repairable and even though I am more than capable of working on the higher tech stuff it is the fact that A) it can not be patched on the side of the road if need be and B) most of the high tech stuff each require their own specialized additional tools and software (plus the means of working with it) beyond that found even in the most extensive average tool set. The technical world is removing our ability to be self sufficient and forcing us to be dependent on stuff we did perfectly well without in the past and really don't always need to exist. That is not to say I am against all advancements as some advancements, specially in medicine are a good thing but where do we draw the line. Obviously there are those who disagree and love nothing more than to indulge in every new gadget that hits the market but that's not me. I'm totally content to manually turn my lights off and on, lock and unlock my doors or use an old fashioned key to start my car.

And those of us who still have our health miss the ones who can no longer get out.

Is why I insulated the garage and added heat and air conditioning!

How about jello? Pump it in while still in its liquid form then let sit in the fridge overnight ti solidify. Best done when the missus is away for a couple days

There's a liquid crisco Wish somebody told me. Having to warm it up or spoon it in is a real PITA.

Because it's black instead of blue he would say it was too slow.

Would have loved to have seen that.

Personally I love the 1st gens and unless i have no other choice I am more than happy to remain a true venture rider in the old sense. But as we all know this group is so much more than just the bikes we ride and I love that about Venture riders. So lets bring it in

Nice machine @Freebird. Congratulations. As far accessories go the main things you need is to fit a rump or two in the saddle and a set off boots on the floor boards then ride to your hearts content.

Only the HD shops? What about all the doughnut shops and bars on route? Just to be clear Ice-cream stops are still allowed.

That's right. They know exactly who they are feeding the wealth to and who is going to add to those existing below the poverty line and they just do not care. On top of that though the vehicles themselves are so called pollution free. How pollution free are the scenes behind the electric car that we are unaware. Example mining of the metals and materials need to produce the cars such as the highly environmental destructive mining of lithium, increased mining of copper for wire and cabling etc. most of which I am sure will be destructive open pit mining and the production of electricity which would have to be ramped up and would all the means for doing this be environmentally friendly? I do not profess to know all the answers if any but I sure am full of scary questions.

Based on the schematic below that brown wire is ignition power to the R/R. This would definitely need to be connected. The other one may have been an aftermarket and not have needed the brown because it was what we refer to as self exiting it would sense a voltage output from the stator to turn itself on were the one with the brown wire would require input from the ignition switch to turn itself on. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93 Yamaha Venture DA Simplified Circuit Diagram Rev C.pdf As far as the cracked magnets in the flywheel are concerned I would replace it the chipped ones may not present much of a problem but the cracked one most likely will in time if it hasn't already. So while you have it apart replace it. Replace the stainless cover and If you can find an oil/stator cooling kit for it get one. It may save your stator from early failure specially if you have added extra lights etc. to the bike. The part number for the kit if you can still find it is 90891-30014 stator coil oil cooling kit . the kit includes items 8,9and 15 from the drawing below and the flange bolt part number 90105-12374-00 not shown. this bolt has a hole in it were item 15 resides.

Check the tech section under manuals https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/RSVservice.pdf http://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1996-2001 Royal Star LIT-11616-VZ-01.pdf

I have seen a battery sit at 11 volts and still crank an engine over. It has more to do with the overall state of the battery. , By this I mean the ability of the battery to maintain and hold its voltage when you apply a load to it. For example a battery is at 11 volts you turn on the high beams and it barely drops in voltage is probably still a good battery and likely just needs to be charged up. On the other hand, a battery could be sitting at 12.5 volts and when you turn the high beam on the voltage drastically drops. This is a sign the battery is probably bad. In these two scenarios the 1st battery is still good and may even still crank an engine over, the voltage barely dropping a volt or two. Were the second battery is defective and may drop as low as half its resting voltage in trying to crank over the engine. So Don,t just assume that because the battery's resting voltage is low that it is bad. Recharge the battery and load test it before condemning it.

I have never been too concerned with tiny oil leaks as long as they are not wet dripping leaks. What we refer to as oil sweating or class 1 leak isn,t worth chasing, neither is a class 2 or wet but not dripping. I might think about fixing it, depending on were it is and how much work it will take to fix. A class 3 or dripping oil leak well that's a winter project. Unless it's so severe it is affecting my oil level which In most case's is unlikely.

If the exhaust is getting that hot 🔥 you may have a lean burn condition and/or a leaky exhaust valve. Leaky valve is easy to check by doing a cylinder leak down test. Valve adjustment, deteriorating valve or valve seat condition, or sticky valve can all be causes of a valve leakage. Also check your plugs colour and compare to a plug colour chart.

How come you guys get all the fun.