saddlebum

That was a very interesting and well made video. it really demonstrates the mechanic's behind how a motorcycle transmission works in a simple understandable format. Over my years as a mechanic I have seen some training videos that do more to confuse a new apprentice than educate them.

Have had the pleasure of meeting and sharing good times with Puc and Tips on several occasions. Great folks with a great sense of humor.

Interesting point. Besides now-a-days they have some very effective LED road flares, saves from using up the bikes battery or convenient if the bikes battery is already Dead. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=LED+road+flares

You have to watch anytime you overfill an engine. It may help those components which are lubricated by splash but overfilling can cause whipping or foaming of the oil, specially were the large end of the connecting rod barely rides just above the surface of the oils max level. When you over fill and the oil gets whipped into a foam you actually loose oil pressure and proper lubrication to those components that are pressure fed, because the air in the foamed up oil not only reduces pressure in the gallerias but causes the oil to have less body hence less lubricating quality. It also can cause air cavitation in the oil pump itself, resulting in premature pump wear and eventual pump failure. This is why there is a max oil level on any oil level indicator, be it stick or site glass. You may be comforting yourself by quieting down the noisy parts that are splash lubricated but you are trading off proper lubrication to pressure fed parts for this false sense of piece of mind.

Maybe @Freebird can add this to the tech library.

Hey @ReinyRooster. I sent you a PM

I would be rewiring to a constant live/Bat point.

Not sure but I think this is round three for the @ReinyRooster. he keeps trying to break away but is fast. learning he can't stay away.

Thats unfortunate to hear it was only 3 weeks ago or so that we had been PM'ing back and forth. he was going to be coming east in a couple weeks and wanted to hook up with Marcarl and myself for a visit on his way through. and then all of a sudden nothing. I hope all is OK with him.

Maybe you could try fabricating some type of ram air snorkel that would direct cool air over your legs or past the side of the engine to redirect the hot air.

Noting a change whether good or bad but appearing to be isolated to a certain part or area of the bike is always a good thing. Now at least you have some idea were to concentrate your efforts in rooting out the negative issues. One thing I did not mention and should have is the fact that depending on how long any moisture may have sat in the fuel bowl you may also have some corrosion (yes contrary to what some believe aluminum does corrode ) bits can fake off and clog orifices etc. I have a friend with a Harley that cuts out in the rain on him but every time he comes to me to check out the issue the bike is on its best behavior even when I try spot spraying the suspect areas or hosing it down completely and repeating the process in the dark to try and spot any electrical arching, Its like its deliberately trying to make a liar out of him. In the end I just pulled apart his entire electrical system, primary and secondary plus charging system cleaned and dielectric greased everything. Now we just sit back and wait for his next ride in the rain.

3m abrasive pads or extra fine steel wool. If using steel wool make sure you rid the cylinder of all debris. Maybe follow up with brake clean and an abrasive or scotch brite pad. You don't want any steel reside left behind because steel an aluminum can chemical react to each other. you can also follow up with ultra fine crocus cloth. and brake clean.

A big part of it is the gunge that builds up in the carbs. A substance that separates from standing gas as the vaporous components of the gas slowly evaporate and mix with moisture from condensation forming a jell like substance that over time crystalizes. The B12 or similar products dissolves this gunge and it then gets flushed out as fresh gas passes through the carb. I assume but could be wrong but this gunge may be a crude form of paraffin, a real common issue with diesels and is why you often hear of summer fuel and winter fuel were big rigs are concerned. In winter this stuff can jell in a heartbeat and bung up the entire fuel system in sub freezing temperature.

Just for you @steamerand @RockinRobin

And its blue Old Yammer always claimed that was the fastest color.

There are an assortment of manuals in the tech section.

That is quite possible, I forgot about that part of the second gens. The 1st gens the fairing is frame mounted and that is the direction my thought process headed. Also when using the method Marcarl described,you only want to make small moves at a time between the two nuts. Two much variance at one time may bend the tangs that bridge the two nuts.

That's cause he has already been afflicted.... from previous years. It doesn't just go away.

True this is effective and the sanding should always be done with wet sand paper. But for most sign paint lettering it is not necessary. Easy off oven cleaner followed by polishing compound and then a good wax is all it should normally take. Tthe exception to this is if someone clear coated over the lettering or used a more durable type paint. In those cases the above technique would have to be used. In some severe cases the clear coat may have to be touched up.

Adjusting the bearings is not that difficult even without the proper specs on hand. simply adjust the same way you would a set of trailer wheel bearings. Adjust the first nut good and tight while turning the handle bars back and forth. you should feel feel some good drag on the handle bars ( this is to make sure the bearings and cups are well seated ). Then back off completely now lightly snug up and then back off about 1/8 turn. Finally tighten the second / lock nut. Then check your adjustment, You should have zero to .003" (that's about a hairs worth ) lash or play and the handlebars should move from lock to lock freely without any noticeable drag. if you have too much play or or the handle bars feel too tight back off the lock nut then adjust the preload nut just a smidge and re-tighten the lock nut and re-check. There is a so called bounce test for this that some suggest but I personally don't recommend it, as there are too many variables involved that can effect the results of the bounce test and you could still end up too loose or too tight.

And you think @Reinyroosteris or anyone else for that matter is going to get that here.

I agree with Squidly =, If your pulling it apart you may as well get the rebuild kit #2 but before you do make sure the master cylinder bore is free of any imperfections, even the slightest imperfection can compromise the brake system. Also check the proportioning valve which attaches to the rear master and divides the brake fluid between the rear and left front caliper. They are notorious for building up crud inside and cleaning up the master as per Squids instructions could be a wasted effort if you do not address this part as well because that crud will just plug the orifice again.That's Item 20 in the picture it is the piece the two brake lines attach to and is mounted on the master.

Baited the trap did ya ?

I am going to have to keep that in mind. I ain't getting any younger either...