saddlebum

Hey @cowpucmaybe you could really fine tune them with a guitar tuner like this https://www.long-mcquade.com/6263/Guitars/Tuners/Apex-Electronics/Clip-On-Chromatic-Tuner.htm or one of the free tuner apps you can put on your cell phone. Might be right handy for those who have a tin ear.

Late as Usual but hope you had a happy birthday just the same.

No I actually have long legs. I can put my feet down flat and still slightly bend my knees. My inseam is 35". This is the extended part. It replaces the short part that comes standard with the highway pedal.https://www.kuryakyn.com/products/559/male-mount-footpeg-extensions

Ok I am assuming when you say yellow/blue you really mean blue/yellow (Ly) and when you say black/blue you really mean blue/black (LB) With wiring were there are two colors the wire color comes first and the color of the strip on that wire comes second Ly would be blue wire with yellow strip. LB would be blue wire with black strip.

If the side stand switch or the clutch switch were faulty you would not be able to crank the engine over and since you can I would assume they are OK. I do not have a lot of second gen experience but I am good with electrical regardless so studying the following schematics. I will try to help best I can. In my experience as a mechanic schematics are your best friend regardless of the vehicle. DO THE FOLLOWING CHECKS WITH ALL CONNECTORS DISCONNECTED AT THE IGNITER UNIT check the connectors at your igniter unit to be sure the contacts are all clean and secure. If not clean and repair (particularly look for greenish powdery looking stuff known as terminal fretting ) Looking at the 6 pin connector from the igniter unit test the black wire for proper ground connection With ignition switch on check for GROUND at the blue/black on the 8 pin connector. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Check the Black/white wire at 4 pin connector for ground ( if no ground check the the emergency fall over sensor switch ) Check the red/black wire going to the coils (this should have 12VOLTS with key on and stop switch in run position) Check the sky blue wire at the at the 8 pin connector 1st with bike in neutral and then with bike in gear. In one position this wire should show good ground and in the other position No ground. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Connect an ohmmeter between the yellow wire and blue wire at the 8 pin connector and roll the throttle. Resistance should vary up and down as you roll the throttle back and forth. You can check manual for exact spec range to be more precise if needed. Connect an Ohmmeter between the black/blue and the white/red wires on the 8 pin connector. These are the two wires going to your pickup coil and should read 189 to 231 ohms. Disconnect connectors at ignition switch connect ohmmeter between blue/yellow and blue/black should show closed circuit with switch on and open circuit with switch off. If any of the above tests fail back track the faulty circuit until you find the cause. I start by tracing back to the next connector until I find at which connector the issue begins and then check the wiring between the connector that test out good and the one that test out bad. this is a quick way to isolate were the issue exists rather than randomly jumping all over the board hoping to get get lucky. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

They do benefit riders with short legs though.

What......There is a counter on it too

Assuming the floor is 1-1/2 inches thick you could recess e-tracks down each side and that opens you up to all kinds of flexibility by allowing you to move your tie points were you need them. You can even get ratchet straps designed specially to fit the e-tracks. https://www.dccargomall.com/e-a-track-tie-downs.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMeFBhBwEiwAzwS8zI_2fpKEqpIGbmjs01oYzoZrQQ361eqhAp8x4m1tjFCnJOZRQr-c4hoCuOwQAvD_BwE

Good choice

or enter a highway doing 2/3rds of the highway speed instead coming up to speed on the ramp prior to merging on the highway.

Purina dog chow was what we snacked on occasionally as kids.

Glad to hear you are progressing in the right direction. Hang in there and keep up the work. Remember Determination is you friend.

And if not .......keep it away from @Marcarlcus he will polish just enough to shame you into polishing the rest. Trust me I know I know

Never said it was Its just a handy excuse for a guy like me who spends 10 plus hours a day fixing trucks and the last thing I want to see when I get home is another wrench. This winter since I have been off work due to covid It has received a lot of attention though.

I would go with Aluminum. Aluminum alloys have come a long way in recent years and tend not to be as brittle as they once were giving them better flex than years ago. This is why you will see lots of transport company's are now using aluminum trailers even in flatbeds. The lighter trailer allows them to increase their payload and I have not seen any major issues with them when they come in the shop. Stainless fasteners is the way to go (just make sure they have a high enough tensile strength and if you do end up using steel bolts place stainless flat washers under head and nut. Any steel brackets you attach should be separated from direct contact with the aluminum. Recommended material's for separation is thin sheets of hard nylon or polyurethane type plastics. For a more solid mounting use a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum as sacrificial shim or spacer, this gives a more solid mounting than a soft spacer but you may have to replace it every so many years. As far as the floor goes you can either spray with a grit coating or cover with a thin sheet of plywood fastened down with stainless screws. You can get them with wood instead of aluminum floors as well but that would add to the weight.

Before putting a new one on check to see if you have any oil leaks. If you do than replace it with an HD badge

Wifey wants to know if it works on husbands

Whats wrong with that ain't that right up there with if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Just for some insight I ran into a similar issue with a transport truck. The customer had a new clutch installed Picked up his truck from the shop were he had it done and all was fine. Next morning when it was cold his clutch would not disengage until the truck was well warmed up. Since he was already falling behind on his time sensitive load he continued to run until he got to our shop after delivering his load. When I pulled his clutch out I found the shop that installed the new clutch assembly and flywheel failed to wash of the thick waxy grease like coating that coated the metal parts to protect them from rust while in storage. After its first heating up this gunk became almost glue like each time it cooled down but would soften when the clutch assembly warmed up. So if you remove the clutch pack I would suggest thoroughly cleaning all the disks with brake clean and then after a good cleaning, soak the friction discs (preferably over night though an hour should suffice) in good engine oil before re-installing them.

You sure you didn't mean to say left lane is for passing. Last time I was in Germany I was told by my wife's uncle that on the Autobahn in Germany and Holland If a cop sees a vehicle has to pass you on the right your the one who gets the 600 euro ticket. Same hold s true if you stay put in the left most lane and refuse to move over for faster moving vehicles, it is required that you move right and get out of the way of the faster vehicle approaching from behind

You will have no issue running them together. Though the HD has a slightly higher load rating their basic construction is the same, making them totally compatible with each other. The E4 replaces the E3 and is another great option as long as you don't intend to manually spoon the tires on yourself unless you have one of those manual tire changer stands or better and not a tire you would want to hand spoon on the side of the road. Tire wise they are great tire with great ride, tire millage and road holding, although they are priced higher than the Shinko.

Firstly You need to be a seriously nasty and/or have an extremely bad attitude here to wear out your welcome. Secondly You cannot ask too many questions its not possible. This site thrives on sharing. Even those of us that know our way around these bikes fairly well and can solve most issues, still find ourselves learning new things and are always intrigued when a new puzzle presents itself because in the process of trying to solve the issue we are inadvertently adding to our own knowledge base so we can be even more helpful down the road. So carry on and don't be afraid to share the challenge.

You would take her word over mine. And just so you know I disagree with everything she is going to tell you.

FYI I already figured out how to get there EH https://www.google.com/maps/dir/2309+Fassel+Avenue,+Burlington,+ON/39.7092307,-78.1912077/West+Virginia/Virginia/Asheville/Parkersburg/Chattanooga/Nashville/Kentucky/Kenlake+State+Resort+Park,+542+Kenlake+Rd,+Hardin,+KY+42048,+United+States/@37.7813167,-87.121465,5.93z/data=!4m61!4m60!1m5!1m1!1s0x882b61dd2ca0cfc9:0x1047780c66c061fc!2m2!1d-79.8054475!2d43.3445775!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x884a54a5d4cb0945:0xbb00c768decd3a43!2m2!1d-80.4549026!2d38.5976262!1m5!1m1!1s0x884cd670bdbcb2cd:0xc04e4149b746a695!2m2!1d-78.6568942!2d37.4315734!1m5!1m1!1s0x88598ca93c0f6f09:0x94ef31c106343a5d!2m2!1d-82.5514869!2d35.5950581!1m5!1m1!1s0x88484c7b32de2457:0xce93e42c0c21949a!2m2!1d-81.5615135!2d39.2667418!1m5!1m1!1s0x886060408a83e785:0x2471261f898728aa!2m2!1d-85.3096801!2d35.0456297!1m5!1m1!1s0x8864ec3213eb903d:0x7d3fb9d0a1e9daa0!2m2!1d-86.7816016!2d36.1626638!1m5!1m1!1s0x8842734c8b1953c9:0x771f6f4ec5ccdffc!2m2!1d-84.2700179!2d37.8393332!1m5!1m1!1s0x887af829f705ee3d:0xccd70b0bbc85b72a!2m2!1d-88.1383557!2d36.7595663!2m3!1b1!2b1!3b1!3e0

Sometimers kicked in again huh!