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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    This is not really a problem, as others have said. In my experience, any RSV that has accumulated 15,000 miles and has seen any extended high-speed highway miles will exhibit this, no matter what the oil level is. Over filling will definitely make it worse. I just spray a bit of degreaser up under the tank on that side and blast it with my hose - problem all gone. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Wow, that IS a tough choice - jerk or dimwitted fool? Can I take them both? How 'bout schmuckoe?
  3. V7Goose
    Gotcha, thanx. I use vacuum gauges myself. Just for reference, an inch of mercury is a standard unit of measurement for vacuum, no matter how it is measured. I just couldn't remember for sure what unit of measurement is used in the shop manual. UPDATE: Just for future reference, the shop manual specifies 280 mmHg at idle, and variation between carbs of no more than 10 mmHg or .4 inHg. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Yup, I guess so. He does still seem to think like me, so if I gotta label him as an average schmuck, then I gotta be an average schmuck too. All us dimwitted fools gotta stick together! (nothing personal, of course). Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Awww, Sarge, you gonna take the fun out of it. Does that mean I can't call gibvel a genius? I thought that was pretty personal. Sorry gibvel, I guess you get demoted back to "average schmuck." Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Spec is 1/2" mercury difference (or 1/2 lb - going from memory here, so not completely sure). I don't know that tool and I can't see the gradations clearly, but it looks like those two on the left might be on the edge. You balance the two banks together with the slotted screw behind the choke knob.
  7. V7Goose
    I haven't really been following this thread 'cause I outgrew watching pissing contests, and I SWORE I would not join this discussion because I saw no value in it with closed minds on both sides (probably mine too), but I just can't help myself! Not even sure why I decided to check out the last couple of pages today. Anyway, I was having an internal argument with myself about not posting and how much I wanted to say EXACTLY what gibvel said above, then I saw his post. It is uncanny how exact that matched the obvious conclusion I came to when reading the posts about tire wear and inflation. That's spooky, man, get outa my mind!!! So my new conclusion is "gibvel is a genius 'cause he thinks like me!" And I just had to post to support a genius. Ride safe guys, if you can, Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Nothing you have done should affect the stock pipes at all - the K&N is a standard Yamaha accessory that does not require you to make any changes. Just pop those pipes back on and see if the burble goes away - that should tell you everything you need to know. If it goes away, then it is the pipes and there is probably not much you can do about it. If it does not go away, we still have an opportunity to figure it out. The vacuum hoses that activate the AIS valve are just the two hoses on the intake manifold nipples that are not capped. All you need to do is go to an auto parts store and buy a couple of rubber caps, then just pull the hoses off and let them hang free for a test ride. You don't need to plug those vacuum lines for the test, just cap the nipples. You can also do a quick check for a vacuum leak by just spraying around the nipples with carb cleaner.
  9. V7Goose
    Wow, any one of those changes could contribute to a change in exhaust sound! But I'd guess it is just a natural sound for those pipes. Easiest way to test that would be to swap pipes for a test ride with someone who has stock pipes. Any chance you are going to one of the maintenance days or rallies this year? We might be able to hook up and do the test - I'd like to hear it and learn about the cause myself. If not, maybe somebody in your area would be willing to do it? The pipes are supper easy to pull off, and even pulling the saddlebags to get to the bolt is pretty danged quick with a T-handle wrench. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    This is a very tough question to answer without hearing it (and comparing it to other Royal Stars). An afterfire is an explosion, which causes a "bang" or "pop," and it would be exceedingly rare to have a condition that allowed so many of them to be fairly quiet and so close together to be described as a burble. So I'd be tempted to just say it was normal deceleration sounds. The AIS valve should be closed during most deceleration, and even if it was defective and leaking, then you probably would be getting obvious afterfires. One way to test that is to just pull off the vacuum hoses that activate the AIS valve (and temporarily cap the nipples, of course; you don't want an excessively lean condition to foul up the test). With the vacuum hoses off, go for a ride and see if anything changes. If it does not, I'd suspect a bad AIS valve, Unfortunately, you said you plugged it once, so that kind of rules that out already. Does it sound different than other RSVs? Do you have stock pipes and air filters? Have you balanced the carbs recently? I suppose it is possible that it is just running on the ragged edge of lean, so there might be just slightly elevated hydrocarbons in the pipes during decel, which burn off just short of a bang? That condition is normal on some bike designs (like the W650 I had), but I have not noticed it on the RSV. I'll keep thinking about it. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    This is not a correct explanation of how the AIS works or the purpose. Inducting air into the exhaust system is to cause the unburned hydrocarbons (gas) to burn before they are blown out of the tail pipe. Just for further explanation, the only difference between a car's air injection system and our air induction system is a smog pump. Our system is passive, with the air just being sucked into the header pipe from the exhaust gasses rushing buy the induction ports. Hydrocarbons: this class is made up of unburned or partially burned fuel, and is a major contributor to urban smog, as well as being toxic. They can cause liver damage and even cancer. The AIS reduces the products of incomplete combustion (hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide) by inducting fresh air into the exhaust manifolds of the engine. In the presence of this oxygen-laden air, further combustion occurs in the manifold and exhaust pipe. The popping we hear is an afterfire, not a backfire (backfire is an explosion through the intake tract or carburetor). The purpose of the AIS valve is to STOP the afterfire caused by the oxygen inducted into the exhaust manifold when the accumulation of unburned gas is too great. When the intake vacuum suddenly increases from snapping the throttle shut, that causes the valve to close, stopping the air from being inducted into the exhaust system, and STOPPING an afterfire at that time. So now the question is why the unburned gas in the exhaust is sometimes so high that we get an afterfire while the AIS valve is in the normally open position? This is caused by incomplete combustion of all the gas sucked into the cylinder. The incomplete combustion can be from multiple causes, including too lean condition (caused by that intake vacuum leak I keep yelling about), fouled plugs, unbalanced carburetors, or faulty ignition system. ALL of those things are bad, and that is why I keep saying that it is more important to fix the real cause of the afterfire than to just hide it by stopping the air induction. I hope that explanation helps. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    OK, now that makes sense. I don't think there is a real specification for how much the grip should slide horizontally on the bar. I'd bet your only option is to find a way to shim inside the grip housing where the cable attaches to the grip, since it would be slop in that wide channel that cotrols how much sideways movement you get. Good luck, Goose
  13. V7Goose
    OK folks, I got my 05 QuickSilver all patched up and running like a dream again, so I am keeping it and selling my 07 RSV. But I still have a few cosmetic things to fix as I find good buys on stuff. I'd even make a special trip just to pick one up somewhere; that would make a good excuse to ride! My right muffler has some ugly road rash on the front of it, so I need a replacement. Anyone have a stock, unmodified RH RSV muffler I can pick up at a nice price? Alternatively, how about a pair of stock, unmodified RSTD mufflers? Or a pair of unmodified Road King mufflers? I could also use the right Y pipe and the right rear crash bar.
  14. V7Goose
    All work and no play makes Throttle a dull boy. Actually, I don't understand the issue. "Play" in the throttle is free movement in turning the grip where the cable is slack and no motion happens to the item connected to the other end of the cable. This amount of play is specified in the manual. If the throttle is adjusted properly, I have no idea what play "along the path of the handlebars" would be. You are not on any sort of hallucinogenic medication, are you? Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I agree, it doesn't hurt anything on the bike. But it DOES hurt our air and our health. If that was the only way to fix the problem, I might understand the choice, but it is not. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Higher elevations do exacerbate the problem, but the causes are the same. In this case, I'd bet a LOT on a vacuum leak. It doesn't have to be a major leak - even very fine cracking in the vacuum port caps will cause it. When I first ran into this problem on my 05, it started last year as I was leaving Fort Worth for the rally in Colorado. It was just occasional in Texas, but got a lot worse as we headed into the mountains (my brother and I criss-crossed the Rockies on the way there and hit 17 passes over 10,000 feet). The mountains cause the problem to be worse not just because of the altitude, but because you are running the bike under load and rolling the throttle off more, causing the unburned fuel to collect in the pipe a lot more than normal. I learned a lot about the vacuum leak problem on this trip as I tried to diagnose the issue. I SWORE the minor age cracks in the vacuum port caps could NOT POSSIBLY be leaking, especially since the bike was only two years old. But various attempts to seal them all provided some improvement (but not complete resolution), indicating that they were indeed the cause. Finally, I got one new cap at the Yamaha shop in Fort Collins, and made another by slipping a new piece of gas line over the nipple and doubling it over, then slipping the spring clamp back on top. REPLACING BOTH the caps finally completely resolved the problem. Trust me, you don't have to live with the problem! Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Nope - no hint of bluing or overheating on any of the steel plates; they all looked prefect, with just a hint of polishing on the odd spot here and there. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    If you are heading to the Texas Hill Country, you might want to consider the Whitten Inn in Kerrville for a place to stay - couldn't get more biker friendly than this place! Their normal rack rate for a double is $80, but if you are on a motorcycle, the rate is $60. And if you are smart enough to stop at any Texas visitor center first and look in the travel coupon book, you just might find a coupon for them at $50! When you check in, they give you a free beer, and they have a bike wash station and wipe-down rags available. The rooms do show some wear, but they are clean and in reasonable repair. The rest of the place looks pretty decent too. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I know he manual states 80 MPH is the limit for the Cruise Control, but on both of my RSVs, it works up to 85, not 80. The cassette door has a latch on BOTH sides. Either just push it in the center, or use a finger on each side at the same time. And I have a couple of HJC helmets and J&M mid-grade headsets for sale here: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1153/cat/11/date/1207693403 Good luck, and glad you are here, Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Give PCW a call (they don't have on-line ordering). 518-346-7203 http://www.pcwracing.net/ Just tell 'em you want a clutch spring upgrade for a Royal Star Venture. Should cost around $82 for the kit (but if you can convince them to slip it into a flat rate priority mail envelope instead of a box, you could save another $5). Goose
  21. V7Goose

    Cheap Parts

    V7Goose replied to MAINEAC's topic in Watering Hole

    I posted about the prices at Carolina Cycle (or Waynsvlle - same place) in your last thread on this subject in early April, but no one commented on it when I said how much cheaper they were. Maybe I just turn a lot of folks off and they tune out my posts? Or I am too wordy ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20574&highlight=cheap+parts&page=2 Anyway, glad you finally found them. Personally, I just use their prices to take down to my local shop and have them match prices. That way I get the cheapest price and keep a good local dealer in business too. Ride safe, Goose
  22. V7Goose
    I bolt my changer to a corner of the driveway. Once the wheel is mounted in the changer, I can pop a tire off and a new one on in just a few minutes, but it is important to use a tire lube like Ru-Glide on BOTH the old tire and new one to make it easy to slip over the rim. I like to do my own work, and even if my local shop only charged $20 to mount a tire, it would not be worth it to me to waste the time hauling it down there, not to mention the cost of the gas wasted too! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Thanx - I don't either!
  24. V7Goose
    Plugging the AIS just pollutes our air more. If the bike is popping on decel, something is wrong, so why not fix it instead of just trying to hide it? OK, I'll get off my soap box now. Frankly, your symptoms sound more like carb sync to me. If you have a vacuum leak, it would be at one of the vacuum lines or nipple covers on the intake manifolds. The vacuum lines are very easy to tear near the ends of the nipples if they are put on or off with pliers. Spray each nipple with carb cleaner or WD40 while the bike is idling - any change in engine sound shows a vacuum leak. If you have an exhaust leak, you should be able to feel it with your hand or see it blow away smoke from a cigarette held under the Y joint. You can also look for a gray sooty film from the exhaust gasses on the chrome heat shields around the Y joint. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Jeezzz - hotels, scenic rides, multiple meals ...?? No wonder I couldn't get anything going in North Texas; I was just trying to get folks to meet for lunch! Guess I didn't think big enough. Goose
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