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elag

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Everything posted by elag

  1. elag

    CROW Convention

    elag replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole

    Hope you wear a rain coat when you go outside.
  2. elag
    Keep the emblems. I saw a few on kijiji and autotrader that have been repainted without the emblems. They look better with them on. Of course it is personal preference. Your best bet is to search the internet for pictures and decide from there.
  3. elag
    I saw white on a couple of 86 to 93 models and it looks awsome. I thought about it for mine but decided against it because of the shape of the saddle bags. Don't think it would look as good on an 83 to 85. Your 91 will look great with white.
  4. elag
    Peeled pinstrip off. Paint thinner to remove the glue. Then hand sand. 3 base coats, 3 clear. Will be putting new pinstrip on (thinking white) in same place as origional.
  5. elag
    Just finished splashing some paint on my 84. Still going to add pin stripe to out line the area of the origional two tone. Color is Teal Blue Metallic from 2002 Chevy. What do you guys think? http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/elagyrrep/IMG_1373.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/elagyrrep/IMG_1374.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/elagyrrep/IMG_1375.jpg
  6. elag
    Glad to hear no one was hurt too bad. The leg will heal if you stop doing things like this. Hope you didn't hurt that knee again. I would assume the leg is not bad enough to keep you from riding? There's still have a few good weeks left.
  7. elag
    I was hoping you were right. Watched the show but it looks like an old Goldwing to me. Possibly 82 or 83. Bummer ... I'd rather see a first gen. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/elagyrrep/House1stgen.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd318/elagyrrep/2-2.jpg
  8. elag
    Copy and paste from that site. I had to laugh at this guys comment. 2WheeledSpeed Import bikes are unsafe unreliable and un-American? When it comes to safety, a motorcycle is a motorcycle and safety is in the RIDERS hands, not the BIKES. If you wreck a Harley you’re just as screwed as if I wreck my Kawi. A sport-bike is not inherently more dangerous. As for reliabilty you really shouldn’t be trashing the imports… While Harley has cleaned up their act very well from what I hear, they used to have so many reliability problems that I’ve heard them called the poster child of motoring unreliability, as the saying goes “95% of Harleys are still on the road……….the other 5% made it home!” I WOULD buy American… If an American company actually built a sport-bike that can compete with the best that Japan and Europe has to offer. Harleys might look cool, but that’s really about all they offer, an image. My Kawasaki Ninja offers real performance, and it’s cheaper too. The part highlighted in red is just too funny. :rotfl:
  9. elag
    I have a van that shows full all the time. After reading many forums on it, I found that they are known for the pivot pin coming loose. Therefore the brush loses contact with the resistance coil (in this case a circuit board). LOL here's a good one. It's a Chevy VENTURE. Anyway it'll most likely be the case with the bike. The brush is losing contact with the resistance coil. If not under warrenty, it would be a good idea to check. It's not hard to get at and could be an easy fix.
  10. elag
    I have to agree with Carl. It's a safty issue. You don't want to get into traffic just to find out that the bike won't respond like it should. Check for smooth response to the throttle. Once it's smooth you can go. Usually less then 30 seconds or so with mine. Start the bike, gear up and it's usually good by then. But check anyway, give a little more time if needed. Someone mentioned in an earlier post that air cooled engines seem to take longer. I used to drive a 400 Maxim and yes it did take some time to warm up. Much longer then my Venture.
  11. elag
    Don't know about the 2nd gen. But my 1st gen has the valve pointing straight at the center hub. I can with some difficulty get a conventional pencil type guage into the front tire to check pressure. But the rear tire is next to impossible with a conventional guage. I can't get a proper seal between the valve and the guage. The final drive is in the way on one side and the brake rotor on the other. The guage I posted a link to in my earlier post attaches to the valve at a 90 degree angle. It works great. It's very easy to attach to both front and rear valves. I know it is accurate because it gives the same reading every time I try it. Not like some guages I've had that will give 10 different reading on 10 different tries. The link is for Canadian Tire but I'm sure you can also find it a Pep Boys or Napa in the US as well. I do like you're discription of an angled valve though. It would make life a lot easier for a conventional guage. I'll have to do some searching to see if I can something like that. Would be a good investment when buying new tires.
  12. elag
    Here's the one I use. It's accurate. And with the 90 degree angle it fits nicely between the valve and the finale drive. http://www.canadiantire.ca/search/search_results.jsp?bmForm=form_endeca_search&bmFormID=1253576835543&bmUID=1253576835543&bmIsForm=true&bmPrevTemplate=%2Fsearch%2Fsearch_results.jsp&bmHidden=OMNITURE_FROM&OMNITURE_FROM=Search&bmText=quick_search_term&quick_search_term=09-5517-4&bmSubmit=quick_search&quick_search=Search&bmHidden=FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672077
  13. elag
    I would have to agree with Randya. Scrap yards are the way to go. You should be able to find a decent low milage engine for a few hundred bucks. Personally I would not put $2300 plus into a 2001 with 230000 miles on it. That's 230000 on the bearings, transmission, brakes, suspension etc. By the time you pay for the engine, installation extra parts required for warrenty and fluids. You can buy another car like it, with less milage. I have replaced the engine in many cars with scrap yard engines. Never had a problem. They cost alot less and usually come with a warrenty from the yard. Some yards will even install it for you (extra of course).
  14. elag
    To confirm a power drain. Unhook the negitive terminal of the battery. Make sure everything on the bike is turned off including the key. Use a test light (incandesent type works best for this). Hook the ground lead of the light to the negitive wire on the bike. Then with the pointed end of the test light touch the negitive terminal of the battery. Light should NOT light up. If it does, you have a power drain or short. Try pulling fuses until the light goes out. When it does go out, find out what that fuse is for and trace wiring associated with that circuit.
  15. elag
    Here's a couple of screen shots of Mitchell on Demand. It shows the temp wire as dark green for instrument panel. And from temp sensor to computer as yellow.
  16. elag
    Here's another unit that maybe worth taking a look at. I haven't tried one of these but take a look to see what you think. http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443306656&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672077&bmUID=1252706436126
  17. elag
    Wayne. I have a Parrot unit in my wife's van. Bought it before I bought mine (Motorola T505). Parrot unit works very well too. Only thing I don't like about that unit is, it doesn't have an FM transmitter. Maybe the newer models have it ( I haven't checked them out lately. One she has was bought around Jan 2009). The one I showed you when I was at your place was the Motorola.
  18. elag
    The Motorola T505 also takes advantage of the voice tag function on most phones. Push the call button on the T505, say the name of the person you are calling and it dials. No need to touch the phone at all.
  19. elag
    I have the same unit in my van. It works great. Speaker and mic built right in. No wiring to do. Unit has an FM transmitter so you can hear the person through your vehicle speakers if you wish (units built in speaker is plenty loud on its own). And around $90. It's a great buy.
  20. elag
    I bought a complete new set of aftermarket wire made by NGK from a local Yamaha dealer. 8 feet of wire (had a little left over) and 4 caps for just under $70 tax included. But before spending money on new wire and caps. Try cleaning the contacts on your TCI unit.
  21. elag
    Thanks Never thought of that. At $7.50 for a new band and a simple wrap around an tighten fix. Sounds like it's worth a try before pulling carbs off.
  22. elag
    Noticed that carb boot for #1 cylinder is wet and seems to bubble from under the band. Tried to tighten it but it seems as tight as it gets. Is this an indication of a crack in the boot?
  23. elag
    Thanks guys. Will check all connections. Probably clean starter too. And will check availability of these battery brands locally. May have to live with carrying the booster pack in the side bag for a while. Anyone think it will cause problems with the charging system if not done for a couple of weeks? Time to work on it is the main factor.
  24. elag
    Never thought of TSC. Good to know since I am not a fan of C Tire batteries. Yes I did do both the positive wire and ground in 4 guage. Ground right to a mounting bolt on the starter as well as to the frame. If you can remember the model number of the battery you have can you let me know. Thanks Carl Thanks Wayne. Same case, if you can remember the battery model number please post.
  25. elag
    Cable upgrade was done this week. When I put my booster pack on it starts fine. This is what is leading me to think it's the battery. But when it cools down it starts fine too.
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