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Sandbagger

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Everything posted by Sandbagger

  1. I have been working on my leaking clutch slave all summer. Made the mistake of "having" to have speed bleeders on my clutch slave. That lead to a sheared off bleeder screw, replacement of clutch slave entirely. Now I put on the new clutch slave with the bleeder screw that it came with and had a heck of a time getting the seal tight enough to draw fluid. With much help from here and plumbers tape I got a tight seal and and the clutch working. Now I have the same leak from around the bleeder valve. It can't be tightened anymore. So, how do I get the seal tight enough around this bleeder screw so that it doesn't leak? How do you bleed out the line losening and tightening and keep the seal tight enough when you are done? Can't believe I have to pull the cover, drain the oil, losen up the clutch slave just because they design these things that you can't unscrew the bleeder screw the hole way out. Crazy. Appreciate your help. Sorry for my attitude. It is the 4th time I will have the clutch slave off this summer.
  2. Havent replaced it but don't think it is working
  3. Don, I'm sorry for both what you and Eileen are going through. I know that 80% of the volunteer, business, family work is done by 20% of the people. It is always amazing to me when I see someone like you who continues to do so much even when they have been going through so much. Don't have anything amazing to say. Just wanted to let you know that I appreciate what you have done for so many of us and I am sorry for you and your wife have been through the last couple years. Bob
  4. This was the problem. Put teflon tape and hooked my hand vacumn and a lot of fluid and have a great clutch again. Thanks to all of you for your effort in helping me out. Would have been lost without you guys. Thanks, Bob
  5. I tried 3 bleeders. Speed bleeder was one of them. Same result. Massive bubbles. PS- I have speed bleeders on my brakes.
  6. I changed the clutch slave today. The previous clutch slave had a leaky bleeder due to bad female threads. It came with new bleeder screw and inner works. Bled the clutch until I didnt see any bubbles and the clutch was soft and not effective at all. Went and purchased a hand vacumn pump and got so many bubbles it was incredible. Thought was I was maybe getting bubbles from where the hose was. It was on tight. I tried 3 different types of bleeder screws. Same result. Very frustrated. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong?
  7. One reply had mentioned that I heard something funny from the truck tire ahead of me. What I meant to communicate was that I heard something funny that I attributed to the truck in front of me, but it was actually the sound of my tire. I feel extremely fortunate that I didn't go down with the violent shaking. I was only 1 up. Unfortunately I think the story would have been different with 2 up and higher center of gravity. It appears that majority of people here feel that the mfg tire company and not the bike mfg rules the tire pressure. I believe that I will be running several pounds under the max tire pressure. I should have done a post mortem on the tire. They said the valve was broken and that is all they found. I think that easily could have been caused be riding on the deflated tire so violently. One major learning for me was that if I bought a bike from someone that I would make sure that I knew how old the tires were and not just how much thread was left. I wonder if I was riding on an old tire. I have been obsessed with monitoring my tread and tire pressure, but completely disregarded the age of the tire. Hopefully my mistakes will keep someone else from making them. Ride safe.
  8. There might be a great lesson here for all of us Avon users. The pressure they are reccomending is significantly less than the max on the tires. Wonder how many guys like me that think that the Max pressure on the side is where you should be riding it. Additionally it was 103 degrees on the road.
  9. This is the confusing part to me. Do we go by the tire or by the bike mfg? Do you inflate to max pressure or some target under max? These are the fundamental questions that I would like to understand. I was lectured at my bike store where I bought my tires saying that bike mfg ruled the tire pressure and not the tire. After I had my blow out I got towed to a Harley dealer and got a Dunlop 408 put on. They inflated it to 36 saying that tire pressure went by the bike and not the tire rec. It was a big spready. My bike tire said 44 max (Avon) and that is what I filled to. Our Yamaha book says front tire is 36. My ignorance says more is better so I always filled to the max (I didn't fill beyond it). Would love some discussion on this point because there are so many different views. There is one person on here that I listen too intently and he has discovered his own pressure for the Avon tires on our bike, however I don't know if that is the safest pressure. Thanks, Bob
  10. I have debated over the last 2 weeks whether to write anything about this, but I realize the discussion might save someones life or prevent serious injury. Long story short- I blew a front tire on the highway going 75 miles an hour. I didn't crash and it is not because I was so skillful. I was fortunate/lucky whatever. First I heard something that sounded like the truck in front of me was having trouble with a tire. Next, my bike was sluggish with steering. Then the tire wall collapsed and I took off to the left across a lane of traffic. Honestly don't know what I did, but got it going back to the righ across another lane of traffic. Somewhere in all this I pulled the clutch and had the presence to not touch the front brake. The front wheel was violently shaking back and forth and it seemed like the front wheel was going to catch at a 45 and body slam me into the pavement in the front. It slowed down enough that I got it off the road on the inside of the highway. What would I like to accomplish with this post? 1) Educate people on what to do with a front tire blow out. I honestly don't know what to do I just know what I did. Hoping some others with better skills than I might know. 2) Understand the steps we can take to prevent the situation from happening. I ride on Avon Venoms. A couple smart people on this site say it is the right tire and that is enough for me. This is my 2nd Venture and I bought it last year. Was riding a front tire that had adequate tread, but I don't know how old it was. This was mistake number 1. Secondly I was putting in the tire pressure posted on the tire and not the bike. So I was at 44 psi and the Venture says its front tire is 36 psi. It was 103 degrees the day I was riding. Thought we were supposed to be going by the tire and not the bike, but I am told this might not be correct. 3) The tire is a 130 instead of a 150. I asked a guy on this site who I respect about the safety of a 150 vs. a 130 if it goes flat. My reasoning is that the wheel is the same width regardless of the width of the tire. If the tire is flat I would think that a wider tire would not wobble as much. He didn't think this was a factor and I respect his opinion, but I wonder. So, let's educate each other. What is the best way to ride these blow outs out and what can we do to prevent them? Thanks, Bob
  11. I have been thinking about cutting a windshield down to 3-4 inches for a summer windshield on my 2000 RSV. Anybody try anything like this? Would like some more wind to keep me cool for summer riding. Bob
  12. I have a 2000 RSV. Suddenly yesterday it was very difficult to downshift. Upshifting with my heel remained easy. Seemed to be easier to downshift if I was at lower speeds. After riding for several hours it worked back to normal. If it is a linkage issue any idea how I would adjust it? Doesn't seem that it would be an internal issue because I didn't feel or hear anything. Thanks for your thoughts. Bob
  13. I went from KC to Daytona on my bike for bike week also. Had a heated jacket. It worked great, but if I used my driving lights it drained my battery and I got stuck on the side of the road. Don't have a volt meter yet. I understand your pain. I had LED turn signals but the turn signal cancel did not work and that is a safety issue for me. I have LED tail light. I think the only way to get the load down low enough is to change the driving lights and or headlight. That jacket is awesome though. I can ride in lower temps than I feel safe (Below 32). Good luck. Would like to hear what you end up doing. Bob
  14. Does anyone know if filling to the top of the site glass causes problems? Thanks, Bob
  15. Good job detective. First off, I don't know what the famous "Engine Whine" even sounds like. I just heard my bike do what it is doing for the first time and it is what came into my head. I did change my back tire and take out my spline, lube it, change rear drive oil. Also had clutch slave problems so had to have the 2 covers off the left side of the bike. Really sounds like a whine. Don't hear any gear issues and again whenever the bike is under a load there is not hint of the noise. It is clearly when the bike is decelerating. With cluth in the sound immediately goes away. Thanks, bob
  16. I have only changed the oil once since I have had it. I used the standard reccomedation in the book whatever that was. In taking off the filter and changing the oil I still could not get a full 4 quarts in without surpassing the midway point of the window. Bob
  17. Just got back from a 3000 mile trip from KC to Florida. Encountered weather from 33 degrees, rain and also 85 degrees. The Tourmaster heated jacket is the single best purchase I have made for my bike. I could ride at 33 degrees for long periods of time and be fine. It extends the riding season by 2 months for me. My only limit is the road conditions (Don't bike under 32). I think the jacket with the collar is best. The heat on the inside of my arms really helps to keep me warm. I would not have thought that. The jacket also allows the use of Tourmaster gloves which is likely my next purchase. I have heated grips, but I am not very impressed. I use light gloves, but the wind over my hands just zaps my heat in my hands. I have added Hippo hands which work great to keep wind off my hands and also the rain. The only thing I don't like is that they are awkward to use and get the hands in and out while riding.(Scratching my face, moving my sheild etc). The jacket is awesome. In my opinion a must have. BTW- I did run down my battery by having driving lights on accidently with my vest. These 2 in combination appear to be too much for the electrical system. I was in a rain storm when the bike stopped running. Wasn't a couple minutes before a fellow biker came to my aid with his truck and gave me a jump. Was really great.
  18. Changed my oil to Rotella T6. I do not have as much oil in it as usual because I was unknowingly overfilling. I am half way up in the oil window when level. The whining is unbelievable where there was no whining before. Whining only occurs on decelaration. When engine is under load it is fine. I think it is a volume issue. Thoughts? Bob
  19. Got a PM from Big Mo saying the same thing happened to him. The linkage in the back was bent that attached to the long shaft. Bent it out gently and it worked perfectly. Would have been lost without that post. Thanks to everyone that took the time to help solve this problem. People took thinking time, took pictures and time to post. I'm humbled by your help. Thanks, Bob
  20. I understand your point. I think some people have a clearly defined life with work in this compartment and "life" in this compartment. Mine is a big mix. Hard to tell where work starts and ends. Think more people are falling into the same boat. Still have a hard time leaving before 5:00 even if I have been out of the country the prior week for a 100 hours. Do find myself getting frustrated with some hourlys screwing around on the computer though when I know they could be bringing more value instead of just doing the minimum.
  21. I can't figure it out. Luckily I have a guy that does electrical work on Goldwings that is adding some lights to my back end. He is going to take a look at it. I have trip next week and I'm running out of time so he can work on it this week. I'll report back on what he finds. Typical project for me. I do the work wrong and then pay some one twice as much to fix my mess.
  22. I'll try to be as straight as i can to give you the facts. 2000 RSV. I rebuilt my clutch slave. Nothing wrong with it, but I was in the area. I took off the heel toe shifter and removed the floorboard to get to it. Changed my fluid. Reassembled. Did have to twist the floorboard around a little bit to get it back to the front position. Maybe I bent something. Maybe i shifted some adjustments a couple rotations but nothing severe I wouldn't think. I easily shifted into first and second. The heel/toe shifter was rotated up with the toe at a high point. Couldnt step on the heel and make it shift. Then realized that if I steped on the toe slightly I could then shift to the third, fourth gear. Unfortunately could only move back to the 2nd or third gear. I am not hearing or feeling any problems internally when I am shifting. The pedal action does not move properly. Would really appreciate some guidance. Bob
  23. Preface- Every thing I do to this bike is the first time so I don't have a frame of reference. My bike is a 2000 RSV with 35,000 miles. I've owned it for a year. I was working around my clutch slave area so I decided to rebuild it. To my surprise it was full of metal shavings. Quite an alarming amount to me. I felt the cylinder and could not feel gouges. Made me feel that the shavings had come from the master cylinder and settled in the clutch slave over time or as fluid had been changed over the years. Was not having clutch problems that I could notice. Getting ready for a trip so don't want to rebuild the master, but am thinking that this is the proper next step. Question: Has anyone seen this issue before and identified the cause? Thanks, Bob
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