Marcarl

can you explain what you mean by: never had any problems? :think:You must be one of a kind!!!

Further on my thinking: If the air is compressed, and I agree, not much in the way of compression, the bubble(s) is smaller yet contains the same amount of buoyancy but less outer surface restriction, it would rise to the top easier? and once there combine with others of the same nature ans so create a large bubble that would want to exit quickly and efficiently? Just thinking out loud.

Well at least it would be powered by a twin, just don't know if you could call it a V.

Almost toooo nice to sell, but then the new owner should be very happy.

I agree with you Condor, I always wondered how the overnight method works with the cylinder closed off with the plunger, just didn't make any sense to me, but it seemed to work for some so I kept my mouth shut. But now I have a theory, maybe off the wall, but a theory nonetheless. When a feller would tie the handle back for an overnight procedure, it would then put constant pressure (not much maybe) on the system including the remaining air bubbles, which would then under the process gather together at the top of the system and then when the handle is released there would be 1 bubble left to get through the escape hatch, and voila! all air has been purged.

From what you tell me, I would take the carbs off and totally go over them, and through them. For that you need a carb kit with gaskets, o-rings and rubber plugs. Seafoam might fix them, bit seafoam will only clean the ports that are still operational or partially operational. Now I like doing carbs, but I not a fan of taking them off, so if you try SF first I can understand.

If it shows that it is loose all the way around, you just pull, but if it seems to be stuck a little then there is a screw left to get out first, probably in the bottom left corner. This cover has the stator behind it and for a stator to work it needs a strong magnet, and that is what lets it come a bit at first and then holds on for dear life, so just pull out, square and straight. Make sure you undo the wires at the connectors coming from the back side first and that the smaller cover (middle gear cover) are removed first.

Sitting for 7 weeks or 7 years shouldn't really make any difference, unless somebody went and turned the key on to fill the bowls with gas on a periodic basis. Now, what happened before it sat might have more of an impact. So how many miles on it at this point, what year is it, does it start well, does it need choke to run, does it miss fire. Just a few questions. I might suggest to clean and lube the carb linkages, check the diaphrams, make sure the air filter is clean and in place, replace the plugs with the right ones, put on some new rubbers for starters. Looks like a nice scoot to move around on, I'm maybe a bit jealous.

NOW THAT is a nice lookin scoot, guess the rest of us have something to keep up with now eh?

I'd be checking for an intermittent miss on one cylinder.

Congrats Mr Jeff. Love her all you can, she is made in the image of the Creator.

An easy test would be to look in the dark at the plug wires to see if there is any leakage, and if you don't see anything, spray the wires with some water. If there is a change with the water treatment it may be a good idea to replace the wires before you go much further.

In addition to what Puc said: highest idle on the sync is not necessarily what you are looking for. All carb butterflies need to be set at the same opening setting, and that is what is done by doing a sync, during the process the idle may increase or decrease, and yes adjustment will be required to keep it in the idle circuit, somewhere between 900 to 1000rpm. I don't have a colortune so do mine the old school way for the mixture screws. Start out at 2.5 turns out from seated. Don't turn tight at seating it, just so it gets there, tight will damage the tapered end of the screw and render it useless. Hook up the carb tune or a vacuum gauge to the cylinder in question and adjust the screw until you get the highest attainable vacuum. Don't rush things and turn slowly. Once that is done check the sync. If you get no reaction by turning the screw the passage will most likely be plugged, so will need to be cleaned. If you need to clean, keep in mind that there are to ports in the passage, one goes straight through and one comes from the side (which you can't see) and is hard to clean unless you can get your finger inside the carb to block the straight through hole.

Just to make sure: check the grooves, and then check them again using a 90 degree pick. You might be surprised as to how much crud is hidden in the corners. Go slowly and then when you think you got it all, do it again. The seals are a perfect fit, as they should be, and any crud in the corners will push them out and the pistons won't go in. If you had taken a close look at the ones you took out you probably noticed some dimpling, that was caused by the crud.

If you haven't done so already, it's time to get the TCI out for a look-see and to clean the connections.

There are 2 bolts holding the starter in place, 1 nut holding the wire on. Then there are 2 allan nuts on the header pipe. Take all these off and out she comes. Only have to do the one header pipe.

That can be somewhat painful. Feeling for ya! Good time to take a little time and work on something interesting. We do that on a regular basis in our business and the worst you can do is to sit around feeling sorry for yourself with your finger held up as an indicator. Hoping you heal fast.

I would go for covered, non-swivel. No real need for worrying about backing up I think for Bernie, just don't go where there might be a chance for that to be necessary. The biggest problem you might run into is that the driver, and this might not be Bernie, so somebody else, would forget that the trailer is there and backup, and after the backing is in progress there would be this crunch thing taking place. Less likely to happen on a conventional tow than a swivel. Covered, because it keeps things cleaner, safer, and might be more visible. Winter storage also come into play as well as, you just never know when they throw salt on the roads. Keep in mind that you will not be seeing the trailer as you tow, maybe you'll get lucky in a corner, but not likely. As mentioned as well, stabilizer jacks and for sure wheel chocks, don't even think or consider going anywhere without those,,,,,and use them!!!! Good to hear about Bernie's sister, wish her our best. And when you see Mary next time and ask her about the time that Gary got lost?, put on a coat first.

One of the things tht was drilled into us at riders school, if you meet somebody in trouble, you stop to help if you can. I would do it anyways. Thanks for being a VentureRider!!

After that, check the 3 white (or Yellow) wires under the left side cover, they come from the stator and are routed to the RR through a connector. Often times they get corroded or burnt in the connector. Most will just get rid of the connector and solder the connections. No need to worry which one is which, they are all the same.

Without getting into the ohms stuff, I'll leave that for that know, I kind of suspect a loose wire in a connector, what I mean is that the end of the wire is not solidly crimped onto the wire, could be right at the fuse box maybe. And NO! I'm not French Canadian, I'm a Canadian of Dutch decent, much more sot after.

Ya, I know it's a burden I have to live with, when my favourite is not within reach there are a dozen others who think they have rights,, it's not easy being me, but, somebody's got t do it.

Who? Me?

So which way were you holding your tongue?

It now brings up the question if Bob tested the unit he sent and found it to be within specs, or if maybe Steamers gauge works differently.