syscrusher

My unqualified opinion is that you have been very lucky with your teethes and must be on a diet of soft foods. The "nerve" in a tooth is analogous to it's blood supply, it keeps the tooth alive and supple. Once the blood supply is removed the tooth dries out and takes on a brittle character and can then easily crack. My "dentist" at the time may have made a mistake since what I could afford was the clinic at the dental college where students earn a grade working on your teeth. I remember one of the worst parts was when you had a dental dam (big sheet of rubber) in your mouth and tiny files sticking out of the top of your tooth and they'd march you down to the X-Ray machine to verify that they had completely removed the root (nerve). You had to keep your jaw open the whole time and try not to salivate since it was just going to drip down your chin. I had an abscess so bad that the acids neutralized the first four local anesthetics that they tried on me. My student dentist didn't get the whole nerve and so when I returned to have the temp filling removed they typically don't use a local anesthetic again because there's supposed to be no nerve. The dental candidate started to do a little cleaning in the canals and YEEEOOOW!!! that hurt and so we had to do the whole X-Ray thing all over again. Good times.

Kawasaki should have used the VN2000 engine in the Voyager and made it a larger (read legroom) bike. There is a huge market out there for powerful touring machines that accommodate larger riders and provide a little room to stretch out.

Typically the tooth will become very brittle after the root canal and it requires a crown to strengthen it andc prevent it from cracking. I had a root canal on a molar years ago but didn't feel I could afford to pay for a crown at the time. Later while biting into a piece of grilled steak the tooth split in two and it had to be pulled. If you do the root canal, get it crowned.

If you have a local bicycle shop that's been in operation for awhile they ought to have some like it. I don't think indexing was an issue with those you just use it to pull a cable that moves your gearing in an internal hub. You pull, it shifts, you're good. Use the Sea Foam Deep Creep to loosen it up inside.

I have a couple of those carriers and I recommend them. I turned one into a receiver mounted motorcycle carrier for a lighter weight (450 lbs.) bike. Get a couple of larger diameter washers, like fender washers to put on either side of the bolt that fastens the receiver bar to the aluminum structure. That will increase it's "sway" strength.

I don't remember how the guide pins for the brake caliper pads are constructed on these bikes but on my Suzuki DR650 they are a hardened steel pin with softer material where the Allen socket and threads are. I didn't know this for some foolish reason used blue on thos pins. I destroyed the Allen socket trying to remove the pin. I tried to drill it to proper size to use an extractor but the hardened steel pin kept me from getting it deep enough to get a good bite for the extractor. I had to buy a new caliper for fleabay so that I could replace the pads. The moral of the story? Be careful with even blue Locktite. You can try just a little bit of pipe dope on threads to make them more difficult to loosen but I'm not completely certain that is safe to use everywhere either.

I know doubt of my riding style. At times I find a little too much exuberance creeps in and I know that will lead to trouble and so I cool it. If I didn't feel hyper aware on a bike I wouldn't ride it. You could try only day rides in good weather, maybe discuss with the doctor, some days may be better than others, more focused. You could be in a slump right now that will pass. You'll sell it more easily in the Spring than right now. If it's not the money, hold onto it for a while and see if there's a change of heart?

When he wants to. The people named all realized that they needed to be effective in their communications and took pains to ensure that they were understood.

The Larin brand one that I have is proportional. A quick jab of the release, pulling away quickly, will lower it just a little. I think thats what Chabichecka? meant, just pulse it. Mine will actually lower slowly with partial and continuous pressure but if you can't even jab and pull away then maybe your release valve is sticking open when activated.

RiderScan http://www.huntercreate.com/shop/riderscan I'm thinking about ordering one of these. I have a very well developed quick head pivot check for lane changes, turns, etc. but this will let me double check while keeping my eyes on the road in the midst of a maneuver. Lots more vids on YouTube or product website. It's kind of like safety chrome, no?

Nice looking bike! It looks like it has a fold-up floorboard mounted ahead of the engine guard. If that's right I wondered if you could post a clear pic or two of that?

Thanks for the tip! Walmart and Amazon both have the kit that mixes an adhesive with a powder. The small kit costs about $12.

So you want to drain it and then refill it from the anti-dive? I don't know why that wouldn't work. With the fork tube inverted the fork oil would flow to the upper spring chamber. You may need to work the slide action to facilitate the transfer.

So did you sand away some material on the conical washer? I noticed on mine that the conical washer had trouble seating all the way at the bottom of the slider tube crown. It would hang part way. This is a bizarre difference with no change in part number.

Just reviewing this due to re-adding the photos. Found out that the boots were on 1990 and later VRs and the dust cover seal was dropped. I am planning to retrofit a dust cover seal onto my 1993 any day now but still unverified whether this is possible. Now - Verified and working very well.

Here, go ahead and use mine: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81110

At the HF near where I live you get the sale price or the 20% off but not both. Matching online is no problem though.

I'm pretty good at that stuff now too but redoing the wiring for lighted disc covers and the fender guard every time and making it look good takes extra time for me. The other thing that seems to be a big time killer is just getting the bike jacked up and ready to remove the front wheel. Probably my methods could be better?

I suppose I do vote for the Gubernor, but they never campaign on the Richardheads they are planning to appoint to the Game and Parks Dept. so how can you be sure about what your vote will do. I did a little looking into the appointments and these people didn't seem that they got put where they are because they are sportsmen or sportswomens. Typically the people at the head are CEO's or politically connected, probably done favors for the Gubernator. I got interested in the whole thing because of a park that used to be a place to go ride off-road bikes now mismangled by the Game and Parks and is all but closed. Off-road bikes aren't allowed anymore, campgrounds look unused, mostly unmowed, etc. Soon the public will stay away altogether and then the state can sell the gorgeous parcel to a another of the kind of people who get appointed to neglect these places in the first place.

$6.48 at Omaha Menards tonight. Deep Creep and fogger/spray were $8.99.

I am trying to get to the bottom of a mystery concerning mismatched parts on Gen 1 bikes. If you have ever replaced fork seals or done any diss-assembly on the Gen 1 forks, please have a read and weigh in on this thread in the Gen 1 technical forum: Conical Washer Under Seal - or not? This is meant as an eye-catcher only, please respond in the other thread.

Wow, you really are smitten. Not an obsessive stalker or anything, I hope?

I would pay $80 - $100 to get the parts I wanted with a few small "goodies" thrown in like "Wings" nylon screws and stuff.

I was buying most of this story about a one man crime wave until the Chinese restaurant called the Golden Dong. This has got to be an urban legend.

Menards had a price somewhere in the 6s on Saturday.