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Showing results for tags 'lights'.
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Well I took 83#2 out for an afternoon run to check out the gas milage. 83#1 was...no is.... getting 50mpg, and I've been leaning towards it for the trip to Ft Collins even though #2 runs stronger. So anyway after logging 68miles of a mix of 20% city and 80% highway at around 65-75mph I find I'm getting 41.5 mpg with #2. Not to shabby. Here's the deal. Both bikes need a little attention before taking off. #1 needs the dash pulled and gone thru. Dash lights, CPU resolder etc., but has progressives, all new clutch, and all new brakes. #2 has a leak in the rear shock somewhere and is not holding pressure, and second gear is just starting to jump/skip but if taken easy second can still be used. I will be pulling a Piggy Backer. I've got to make a decission soon in order to start rigging the hitch and doing the wiring. I'm not any good at last minute to-do's. Whacha think???
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here is some info on the new silverstar lights http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/11/06/027643.html
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Here is a question for all the electrical engineers we have on the site. Since I am having trouble locating a trailer isolator to tow the trailer I just got with independent turn signals and brake lights at a somewhat reasonable cost, would it be possible to just hard wire individual diodes into each wire to protect the bike from shorts that could occur in the trailer? The trailer lights would still power from the original bike lighting but, would this not protect it from a back-feed situation blowing fuses on the bike? Since I have no idea what amperage standard 1156 and 1157 bulbs pull, I would need to know what diodes to use that would accommodate the 12 Volts and the amperage draw but, I don't see why it would not work. I know many have just hard wired their trailers straight but, I suppose I am the cautious type. Diodes would be cheap insurance I believe and they cost little at Radio Shack. I thought about just installing them in-line and covering with heat-shrink. Perhaps installing them into a very small project box would be better. What do you all think? Dog
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I put the light bar on the trunk of my 87 VR - got it from big bike barn, I think. The bulbs in it are a paltry 3 watt, and it just does not show up well in day light., I have it all apart now and want to install led lights, perhaps with a dual element circuit to have the combo of running/stop lights. I want the stop lights to be BRIGHT. Any idea of where I can get them? Got some from Auto Zone. Not much better. AND - if this has been talked about aready, forgive me and just point me to the right thread!
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I just finished with all of the mounting of my tour pak and now I need to run the wires for lights. My tour pak came with lights and I added leds to the bottom edges and replaced light bulbs with leds that can brake,signal, and be running lights. Any suggestions on wiring? I thought about under drivers seat but do I need anything special or just splice. Thanks for any tips. Bob:confused24: The "Fish-n-Musician" http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/5/5_2_110.gif http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp?pc=ZSzeb095&pp=ZNxmk393BBUS -
Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end). There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret. My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach. Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing! To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown. Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery. Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more. This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights! Here are the technical details to go with those observations: At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery. Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery. After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9. Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2. With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck, Goose
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Installing Harley Davidson License Plate Bracket Light Kit Submitted by Tartan Terror Anyone owning a Royal Star Venture knows full well the lack of good lighting on the rear of this motorcycle. Although I have seen may good ideas I chose the Harley Davidson license plate bracket with the incorperated taillights. Harley Davidson’s part number for this item is 68230-97A or 68230-97B. Both will work well and the only difference is that the “B” part number has a full backing behind the Plate portion. http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image002.jpg Step 1: Assemble the lamps onto the chrome bracket. The lamps are easily installed onto the frame and are held on by allen head bolts provided in the kit. You must also flatten the two raised nubs on the plate portion of the plate portion. After all assembled cut off the plug in connector as the Harley plug will not fit the RSV. http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image004.jpg Step 2: Remove the License Plate from the Venture and gently pull out the wires inside the pod behind the removed plate. Find the Blue and Yellow wires inside the pod. Next connect the Blue wire on the Harley lights to the to the Blue wire on the RSV. After doing this connect the Red wire on the Harley lights to the Yellow wire on the RSV. I connected the wires using a male female type of connector so I could take the lights off easily for repair or cleaning if need be. Note: If you test the lights after you have made these connections lights wont work. You must bolt the plate and lights to the bike to ground the lights! http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image006.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image008.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image010.jpg Step 3: Tuck wires into the pod carefully and Bolt plate frame to bike. Test lights at this point and if all is good you are finished! Lights will operate as brake and running lights and will add lots of great light on the rear! http://www.venturerider.org/hdlights/image012.jpg Here is the Finished product!!! (Sorry the Pic is a little dark) -
A few folks have shown interest in how I did my lights on my RSV, here are some close ups for anyone interested. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights005Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights001Medium.jpg I made this extender out of a block of 3/4 " Aluminum and shimmed it fwd with some 3/4" nuts over the bolts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights002Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights006Medium.jpg The lights are from a H/D both the driving and turn signals http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights004Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights003Medium.jpg The collars are made of Aluminum that has been drilled out and is polished. It's all custom and I just worked out the engineering as I went along. I would cut the collars down from 2" to 1 1/2" should I decide to do it again. Hope this helps out inquiry minds
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Ok, so some of ya'll probably remember I bought a '77 XS750 for $50 a month or so ago. I pulled the carbs off and cleaned 'em.. put 'em back together and figured I'd see if it'd turn over. I toss a charger on the battery and after a few hours go to take a look. I got lights to come on (neutral indicator and oil light) and when I hit the starter it clicked. I pulled the charger off and checked the battery.. bone dry... Not surprising as it sat for 3 years before I got hold of it. So I bought a new battery. Installed it and now I'm getting absolutely nothing. No lights, no pleasing click... nothing. I checked the fuses and none of them appear to be blown. I cleaned the connectors on the wires to the battery... I've poured through my shop manual.. I can't find anything. Any ideas?
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Has anyone else had this problem? The wire harness for the front turn signals, light bar, etc, is routed right between the steering stops below the headlight...In the past few weeks, a wire has worked up over the stop and been pinched and shorted out the lights. Last night I lost all my lights, I found the right turn signal wire cut and fried, last week it was one of the light bar passing lights, and before that , the same turn signal. I have tried pulling them as far as they will go in either direction, and still stay plugged in, but they keep working back in the line of the pinch point. I used zip ties to get them out of the way this time. I think I have an idea about an alternative way to route them but it may require drilling a hole in the back half of the fairing and feeding them through...this would eliminate the problem altogether... Unless someone has a better idea, I will try that next week... I am heading out for a few days this Friday for a color tour, so I don't want to tear into it right now....stocking up on fuses and electrical tape for the trip in the mean time...
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LIGHTS LIGHTS AND MORE LIGHTS It seems that every time we buy some thing new for our venture it has a light or two attached or needs 12V power to run it, and the alternator can only give so much to keep up with our demands for more power. The alternator can produce between 20 and 24.5 amps and after taking away the 10-12 amps needed for the normal operation of the bike you have about 10 amps to work with. Now when you add a trailer you tax the system even more because most trailer lights take about 2.5 amps for running lights and 5-6 amps when the brake lights come on. That doesn't leave much left for the rest of the goodies we have installed that use power so it would seem we have a problem? NO PROBLEM, it only means we need a power manager and the simplest is to have all of the lights we have installed on one or more switches so we can turn them off when there not needed. Speaking of installing lights, trailer or a sidecar the following are some tips on the best place I have found to hook up to power. Lights For lights; any convenient brown wire will supply 12V switched on by the key, but if you also wish use a power bus to supply all of the extra lights you have added, then use the large brown wire coming from the Ignition. switch and be sure to add a 15-20A fuse because this wire comes directly from the main fuse through the Ignition. switch. Then use this source to power all of the switches to control your lights. Trailers Trailers are a different story because your brake lights and tail lights are monitored by the computer and if they are hocked up wrong they can damage the sensor board in the computer. the safest place to attach trailer lights is at the rear brake switch using the brown wire for the running lights and the yellow wire for stop lights. For turn signal lights you can connect directly to the dark green wire at the right turn light and the chocolate wire for the left turn light. For those of us that all ready have trailers and extra lights it might be a good idea to check on the wiring to see that it was done the safe way. Relays I have found all sorts of uses for relays on my Venture, the following is a setup I use on my 91. The relays are from Radio Shack and are for circuit board mounting, they will carry 10 Amps and only require 160 ma to operate the coil. The wiring is straight forward "NO" is the normally open contacts, Com its the wiper or moving contact, the coil has no polarity, #5 is Bat - Frame or black wire; #10 is bat + and I used a 15 amp fuse on this wire; and for the sake of the explanation I will give the rest of the wires a function, #1 wire is connected to the brake light and # 9 wire goes to the trailer stop lamps; # 2 wire is connected to the tail light and # 8 goes to the trailer running lights, #3 wire is connected to the right turn signal and # 7 wire goes to the trailer right turn light, # 4 wire is connected to the left turn signal and # 6 wire goes to the trailer left turn light. You my ask why go to the trouble to have a relay on the flashers; Well their are two reasons #1 when you connect your trailer flashers directly to the bike you load the system and the flashers go to fast, # 2 all of the lights on the trailer are brighter because their running on full voltage. Also if something shorts out on the trailer you don't loose a fuse on the bike. I used 18 ga wire on # 5 and # 10 and 20 ga wire on the rest. The computer monitor costs over $900.00 at a dealer. http://www.venturerider.org/pictures/4relay.gif Fred Vogt 1037
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Lets get this place rocking again by posting how we've added to the best bikes ever made. Report your accessories, mods, add-ons. If you made it yourself post a picture. I'll start! I have installed in my 99 RSV the following: (I bought this bike used so many of these things came with the bike) Hopnel Tank bib Chrome Master cylinder cover Chrome choke knob cover Chrome front fender rail Chrome Kuryakan highway pegs (http://www.kuryakyn.com/) Chrome clutch and brake cylinder covers etched with Royal Star Venture Chrome tail light cover from Cruisercustomizing.com Chrome bag rails - came with the bike Chrome HitchDoc hitch - came with the bike Chrome light hoods - came with the bike Chrome trunk rack - came with the bike Carolina Leather tool pouch for the front Hopnel trunk bib - not installed yet Highway Lights - came with the bike LED light bar under the trunk - wired for running and brake lights LED license plate lights - wired for running and brake lights Purple LED accent lights to show off the best bike on this site. Saddlebum sheep skin seat covers I think that's all. There may be more that I'm forgetting. I know. I need to add pictures. I need new pictures! Here's a few.
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