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Showing results for tags 'fluid'.
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Ok I ordered a complete set of speedbleeders for my bike,the first project is bleed all the fluid from my clutch and replace with new.Someone that has done this please send a basic "how to do this" from beginning to end with speedbleeders. While I was in Colorado it seemed as if overnight the fluid got very dark colored and I lost alot of my feel in my clutch pull.The clutch was still very strong but after I got back down to camp I had my original feel on the clutch lever but fluid very dark. Last year Condor told me how to reverse bleed but I do not have the tools or know how to do that so my next best hope is I bought the speedbleeders. Thanks,Tom.
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When #3 pulls so much vacuum that it pulls the fluid to the top, will A, B or C screw help get it to stop? Yanno, so I can start syncing them. I am trying to sync my carbs and I know they are way out of sync, I sure see why the dial gauges would be a better choice over fluid ones in this situation. -
I've got an 08 RSV, and I'm replacing the brakes this weekend with EBC sintered pads. Which kind of stuff goes on the back of the pads to prevent sqealing? Seems there are two different kinds of goop, one for organic pads and one for ceramic pads. Which one? Since I have not changed the brake fluid...is it safe to assume that an 08 RSV uses DOT 4 brake fluid?
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Thought this might be of interest to everyone here...........I found it very helpful. DOT 5 Brake Fluids After paying a small mint for the paint job on my restored Norton, I started considering ways to preserve and protect it. Chief among my concerns was brake fluid. I had once spilled regular brake fluid on my toolbox, and a week later it was sporting a huge corroded area with blistered paint. So after hearing about DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid I investigated. If you have similar concerns, DOT 5 Silicone might be of interest to you as well. Silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid was originally developed for racing, but has several attractive qualities for use on classic bikes with hydraulic brake systems. These are: • DOT 5 Silicone does not attract water. Lack of moisture absorption minimizes corrosion of internal components for better sealing, longer component life, and less maintenance. On the other hand, regular brake fluids are hygroscopic, and readily absorb water from the air and other sources. Therefore, motorcycle brake systems using DOT 3 and 4 ought to have their fluids changed regularly to prevent problems. The maximum life of DOT 3 or 4 is 5 years. • DOT 5 Silicone will not affect plastic or painted surfaces, and is non-toxic, non-corrosive and nonirritating. With glycol based brake fluids, like DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, care must be used to thoroughly wash it thoroughly from skin and all painted surfaces. • DOT 5 Silicone offers superior lubrication of master cylinder and caliper pistons preventing abrasion between the sealing cups and pistons that can take place under racing conditions. In street use, this could result in nearly zero component wear. • DOT 5 Silicone has a very high boiling point that eliminates brake fade. Although it is no longer the preferred brake fluid for racing, it is more than adequate for street use. Things You Should Know As with any product there are several trade-offs to consider before rushing out and converting every vehicle you own: Silicone fluids are not miscible with water. It’s the classic oil and vinegar scenario. DOT 5 Silicone, being less dense, tends to float on water. Therefore, if water ever entered the system it would collect at the lowest point, meaning the bottom of the caliper. Water in the bottom of the caliper could be hard to get out without removing the caliper and rotating the caliper to place the bleed nipple at the lowest point. While it’s permissible to mix DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids, DOT 5 Silicone fluid cannot be mixed with any other type. If the system is not completely purged before conversion, the mixture may gel and result in very poor braking. Therefore conversion usually requires disassembly and a thorough cleaning, or at least numerous bleeding sessions over several days. Obviously then, the best time to consider conversion to DOT 5 is before rebuilding the master cylinder or caliper. Copyright RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 2 Written June 04, Revised June 08 Because DOT 5 Silicone cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid it has been given a special purple color. Any owner or mechanic seeing the special purple color should instantly recognize that the fluid in the reservoir is not normal brake fluid. There are actually two types of DOT 5 fluids. There is a SBBF (Silicone Based Brake Fluid) and a DOT 5.1 NSBF (Non-Silicone Based Fluid). For several years DOT 5.1 was not available to the general public and there was a very low chance of getting the two confused with each other. However, the latest generation of motorcycles is now using DOT 5.1 and it is becoming more commonplace. Be aware that DOT 5.1 has the same base chemistry as DOT 3 and DOT 4 and therefore does NOT offer the advantages of DOT 5 Silicone. Another point of confusion is that most people assume that since DOT 5.1 has a higher number it must therefore be better. This is simply not true. DOT 5.1 was formulated for use in ABS systems that require a less viscous fluid. From the information I was able to gather it seems that most road racers are now relying on the latest generation of DOT 4 brake fluid, along with regular fluid replacement, for the ultimate in hydraulic brake system performance. So we may conclude that DOT 5.1 is not an improvement, but a modification for ABS use. DOT 5 Silicone brake fluids are not generally available in Europe. If your Italian or German motorcycle brake reservoir is marked “Use DOT 5” they are generally talking about DOT 5.1, which is not a silicone brake fluid. They do this because your bike is probably equipped with ABS and DOT 5.1 is the preferred brake fluid for ABS systems. The easiest source for DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid in the USA is your nearest Harley- Davidson shop. DOT 5 Silicone is specified as the brake fluid of choice for use in all HDs. And of course when working with any brake fluid, proper personal protection should be worn, don’t mix brake fluids from different containers, and be sure and follow the safety precautions on the label. Summation Although your bike shop may try to talk you out of buying DOT 5 Silicone, realize that this is because new bikes on their showroom probably specify something else. However, you should buy and use the brake fluid that is best for YOUR motorcycle. If effective braking, low maintenance and protecting your paint job are your priorities then DOT 5 Silicone should be considered. Thanks to Bel-Ray Lubricants for supplying the technical information used in this article. More information is available on their web site at http://www.belray.com/ Richard Whatley Rodi British Bikes
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I just got my 83 a few weeks ago....after not riding for about 20 years....and I have already had an "experience" (sigh) I was in the middle of no-where going to do a job at a clinet's cottage ...puttin' along at VERY low speed on their laneway...turned a sharp corner and the front wheel washed right out on me...turns out it was soft sand under the grass! Thanks to soft sand and crash bars there was no damage (except my pride). ANYWAY....2 questions 1)is it possible for the clutch fluid to have leaked out while it was on it's side? It was on more than 45-50 degree angle for about 20 min (until I could get it up...is there viagra for heavy bikes?) After I got it upright, the clutch wasn't disengaging properly...checked the fluid when I got home and it was almost empty! Had to refill and bleed the system. 2) there is an oily residue on just one of the carbs, (I think on the intake side) is that an indication of blow by or something major? (rings, valve seals??)
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I know this isn't the place to start this, but I'm casting the widest net for help. Decided to change fluid and added a speed bleeder to make the job easier. Every thing was going fine, nice new fluid flowing, and went to close the bleeder - and it broke off . Took slave cylinder out, drilled out and re-tapped so stock bleeder would fit. Now it won't hold pressure/close. Did I drill too deep? Looks like I'll need a new/used cylinder, unless the geniuses here have a solution. Any ideas???
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I am about to tackle replacing my clutch fluid. I've read posts here about pumping the clutch and bleeding it. However, I have invested in a MityVac and plan to use it. I've never done this before but from what I've read it seems that all I need to do is connect the vac to the bleeder valve and pull the old fluid out as I pour new fluid into the master cylinder. Is it really that simple? Has anyone used a MityVac to do this? Attached is a photo of the MityVac kit I bought. Thanks for the help, Dennis -
Clutch fluid is getting dark and glass window is full so I thought I would change it. Is there a tech article on how to change the fluid somewhere, I can,t seem to find it. Thanks.
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One side of the caliper for my front right side brake was seized, so I took it off and cleaned it really good. I managed to get the pistons moving again. When I reinstalled it on the bike and bled the brakes, I can't get any pressure to the lever. Fluid is moving into the caliper and will shoot out the bleed valve, but I still can't get pressure. So far I've tried holding my finger over the bleed valve to use as a check valve while pumping the brake and I also pulled the line off the caliper to make sure it was getting fluid. The caliper is full, fluid is coming out of the check valve, but I still can't get pressure. What gives??? I'm totally lost. I had good pressure before and I can't see a leak anywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
What would make a rad Fan fuse blow? It wasnt a nice site, Was sync the carbs and I look down and fluid all over the place Went to check the fuse and its blown
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Doing a top off of the rear brake fluid but before I pour....The Owners manual suggests DOT 4 for both the brakes and clutch. I have never changed to anything else so is this legit? DOT4 ? Thanks in advance!
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I got to tell you I'm not much for preventive maintenance. Sure I change the oil and plugs fairly regularly. Usually change the tires before the threads are showing but I never have changed the brake fluid or the fluid in the clutch. Just added as needed. I will also add I've been riding for probably longer then most of you folks be alive. Now, recently, last Thursday to be exact my clutch failed, no fluid. The slave cylinder was leaking big time. I ordered the repair kit and all the gaskets. Both cases on the left side have to be pulled to get at that berger. Long and the short of it is the cylinder housing was so pitted I don't think I could have honed them all out. Maybe but I decided I didn't want to have to redo the job a second time. To get to the part you have to take the exhaust pipes off the left side as well as the foot rest, the shift linkage and the hanger for the exhaust pipe. Morale of the story is a 20 minute clutch fluid change would have saved me 3 or 4 hours of labor and $150.00 in parts....... Hummm, maybe I'll change the fluid in the brakes while I'm waiting for the parts. BOO
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i have checked what has been suggested and what i can see all is where it is supposed to be and doing what it should. the fluid is a medium colored carmel color and is full. not having worked on a bike in awhile, i could be missing something. on a stand, if i go from neutral through the gears (engine running) the tranny makes quite a bit of noise as i progress up to 4th. it made enough noise, i went back to neutral and turned it off. i changed the engine oil about 60 miles ago just after a rear tire change, which is good. I have been having shifting problems since. on a side note while changeing the engine oil and i don't remember why i was going to do this, but i loosened a cover to see what was behind it. the cover is on the left side, back one. i got the bolts loose, but the cover did not want to come off. i got distracted and wound up finishing the oil change. then i cranked the bike. while idling in neutral, i remembered that cover. it was barely oozing oil. i tightened up the bolts and cleaned the 2 drops of oil. I don't know what is behind that cover, but that may be my souce of trouble. any suggestions on adjustments? after i post this, i am gonna go to the stealer for clutch fluid in case changing the fluid is suggested. the previous owner used yama fluid for everything, so i know what to get. I will check this thread afterwhile.
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For the last year the rear air pressure in my '87 would leak from 40lb down to 20lb in about 1 day then on to near 0 in another day or two. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower. Each morning I would pump it up with my 0-60lb gauge hand pump from Progressive. Reading aroud here mostly about 2nd Gen shock leaks someone mentioned putting in some tranny fluid into the air fill line to swell the seals some. I did not have any tranny fluid laying around, but I did have some power steering fluid with leak stop additive. No idea if it hurts or hinders long term but I did not have much to lose so I put in about 1 ounce with a veterinarian syringe and surgical tubing section I had. Now 3 days have gone by including a hour of two-up riding with the nice weather we had today. It has held steady at 40lbs. Crossing my fingers it holds for a long while. I did not have a valve stem removal tool handy either. Rebent a small cotter pin from the junk pile so the ends were the same lenght. Fits perfectly either side of the valve stem. A pair of pliers and it was out quickly. -
Has anyone installed speedbleeders in place of the OEM bleeders? Website below. If so have they worked well or are they not worth the money? I plan on changing the brake fluid and clutch fluid over the next few months and it looks like these things would make it very easy for this time and in the future. JR http://www.speedbleeder.com/ -
Take that anyway you want to here's the question -I already pestered Earl with this but I did not explain myself properly, and the man should have to do everything! I pumped fluid from the rear bleeder to the master cylinder without a problem. I am trying to do the same in front, push fluid from the bleeder on the caliper through the line to the reservoir. Problem is that I seem to be blowing most of it out from between the tube and the bleeder as thought there is a block. I took the bleed screw out and it is clear. No fluid seems to be reaching the reservoir. What would cause this. *It's a new master cylinder!!
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I received a caliper seal kit for my '83 venture. Included was a small pack of what looks like a red grease. There were no instructions in the seal kit nor in the factory manual explaining what to do with this 'stuff'. It appears to be a lubricant that you put on where (pistons, seals, dust seal)? It is dissolved by brake fluid but I'm hesitant to use it for fear of contaminating the system which I just spent countless hours cleaning up. Any help would be appreciated.
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I went for a ride this past Saturday after getting my rear tire back on the 04 RSV. when i tried to go into 3rd gear, it would not. with clutch in, down to 1st, back to 2nd and nearly pound the heel to go to third. got to the stop sign by this time and after stopping, fiddled with the shifter to get back to 1st. I managed to get a decent 30 mile ride in (mostly state highway), but i went through the above routine when needing to shift. when i got home, parked with the engine off, i could easily go through all the gears using one hand on the clutch and the other hand operating the gear shift. i was using my hands as i was squatting next to the bike so I could watch for anything wrong. I can't see anything out of place. clutch fluid good and properly filled. no fluid on the floor or leaking from anywhere. no problem at all before changing the rear tire. Is there something about removing the rear tire that is related to the clutch? I torqued the axle nut to 110 and while it won't free spin, i can turn the wheel with little effort. Any (helpful) comments would be appreciated.
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OK...so I got my Motorcycle Larry Ram Mount Resevoir Cover today. I put it on the LEFT side and liked the way it sat above the Audio Controller, but it also exposed 1/3 of the back of the GPS (which is where the external speaker is located), so I decided to move it to the right. The left cover came off very easily and I noticed a plastic cover that I assume prevents spillage...so anyway, I decide to move it to the RIGHT side to see if it fits better and when I take the screws out...you guessed it...the white plastic cover came off and CLUTCH FLUID spilled out of the reservoir onto the garage floor. LUCKILY I had the steering column straight instead of cocked and the fluid fell straight to the floor. I assume if any gets on paint it will strip it correct? Again, although DUMB...I was lucky that none got on anything except a drop or two on the VERY bottom of the chrome kickstand (wiped off with wet cloth and then dried). What I need to know is...since I have never messed with the brakes on ANY bike I have ever owned...what kind of CLUTCH FLUID do I use (do I need to go to the Yamaha place)...and HOW MUCH do I put in... Thanks for helping the DUMBA$$ out. Wally -
I bought a 1988 Venture that had been sitting for more than 3 years. The clutch did not work at all so I thought that since it had no fluid in it maybe it just needed fluid and bleeding (who was I kidding). I tried and tried to bleed it with no luck. I bought a rebuild kit for the master and slave and also a Harbor Freight bleeder. Rebuilt the master first and tried the HF bleeder without rebuilding the slave. Bleeder worked great and had a little clutch action but looked under the bike and had a flood of brake fluid there. I took out the slave and rebuilt it (thanks for all the posts that said it did come out) did the bleeder thing and it worked great. Had clutch! The front brake worked some but not good. I did the HF bleeder on it and it worked fine then. The rear brake did not work at all. Tried the old method of bleeding and had no luck. Did the HF bleeder on the front left then on rear then on fitting at steering head and went through front rear and head again. Got a full brake. The HF bleeder worked great it was on sale for $20 and it could of been the best $20 I ever spent. One other thing that is nice using the bleeder is that I need no one else to help me. The only other thing I did was to put a turn of Teflon tape around each bleeder screw so that air woud not leak while bleeding. Hope to get everything done so I can go to Maintance Day. -
If I'm losing clutch fluid and there are no external leaks evident:think:, am I to assume that the fluid is goin into the crankcase? The clutch works fine and does not bleed down even while holding it disengaged at long stoplights. I've had to refill the master cylinder once in the last three months and it needs some fluid now. It did not start "using" fluid before I changed it the last part of May. -
clutch bleeder screw, where is it ???? 2005 rsv need to flush fluid , also want to try speed bleeder.
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I would like to send out a special thanks to Squidley for finding the issue that has for so long plagued my bike. After all of the troublshooting and head scratching, Squidley shows up and points out the fact that my rear brake fluid was no longer fluid. It is now a gel. Appearantly my rear brake has been slowly locking up on me. Thank you Squidley . He also pointed out a couple of other issues that I need a little help with. Is there anybody out there who may have a spare rear reservoir and a proportioning valve they would like to part with? My valve is no good and my reservoir is in pieces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Clay
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As a not-so-glamorous part of my job, I occasionally have to visit suppliers when they are giving us grief. I shouldn't have to do it, I don't really like to do it, and they really don't like me to do it. Sigh.. Anyways, I have to make a trip to Brampton, Ont, which is about 150 km (90 miles) from my house. Today was supposed to be the first nice day in ages (no thunderstorms) and I haven't been on the bike in over a week. So, I decide "What the heck.., I am taking the bike." The trip there was fantastic - the 401 (major highway) rolled right along with none of the typical backups and delays that seem to be an indication of summer in Ontario. I get there, I listen and nod politely to the excuses/misdirection.. cut through it all as best I can, have them draft up some action plans, arrange with my business to give them a break on tomorrow's delivery so they could actually do what I requested, and then I head back out. It's warm & humid, but not unbearable like it has been the last few days. I jump onto the bike, head back to the 401 (highway) to go home - I had been on surface streets for about 10 mins, the temp gauge was reading normal, everything going just fine, when the bike starts to lug a bit. Then much more dramatically... "hmmm.." I am on the on-ramp to the highway already trying to merge onto 4 full lanes of traffic doing 70 mph (compared to my 50) and the bike is straining like it is giving birth. I am running out of ramp, but there is a nice paved shoulder. Hit the 4-way flashers, navigate as best I can to the shoulder, and as soon as I pull in the clutch, both wheels lock. "Whoah !".... keep things upright, but there were some tense moments. Shut the bike off, try to push it: no go - full lock. That nice super-heated-brake-pad odour fills my helmet. My mind flashes back to a previous post that recalled the brake fluid on a hot humid day expanding to the point where the linked front & back brakes locked. The suggestioon was to keep a 8mm wrench handy. I had taken it to heart, had the wrench, plus a 16inch length of hose to slip over the bleeder. Aside from some very choice expletives about how close the passing vehicles were as I was madly bleeding off the excess brake fluid, I had no issues whatsoever and was back mobile within 10 minutes. So, to whomever posted that suggestion, I (and my family) heartily thank you:thumbsup2:. Postscript : I have ridden in some hot weather, and had no issues. All the fluid was near last year when I picked up the bike in August. Any ideas why all of a sudden things decided to lock up ? PPS: And, for information's sake, I got off the 401 at the next exit, found a quiet parking lot and gave the bike a good once over. Then proceeded to thoroughly test the brakes, and found no issues. Regardless, I completely changed the brake fluid (front and rear) once I got home. Thanks again - this group is fantastic. -
trying to seat the bead on an suv tire....17 inch rim.........i tried the ratcheting strap method......haven't tried the ( gulp) lighter fluid/starting fluid methods .......yet......any other ways?.......besides a service station.....
