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yamihami

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Everything posted by yamihami

  1. yamihami
    Your right I'll be removing my flywheel to replace the starter clutch, as soon as I get my my parts on order. In the mean time what i was saying did not preclude the proper use of the right puller but I only wanted to add a measure of safety by using a bolt on the crank while pulling off the flywheel. And a longer bolt would in effect be better just to insure the threads won't be damaged of course the bolt is not torqued up it will be just cintched up enough the object is to have the flywheel pop off the boss. I've used this procedure to remove stuburn flywheels from outboards and never damaged anything .I ordered a starter clutch on ebay. I will be doing the mod that uses the starter clutch from an '05 its a better design. I have a lathe and a milling machine and all the tools and know how to do the job. Still I got butterflies in my stomach. I'll keep you all posted and I will post pics of all my steps. I figure my parts will be here within 3 weeks.
  2. yamihami
    Hi guys I thought I would chime in with a suggestion. Being an aircraft structures tech in the Canadian military I've been trained to try avoid damaging parts and this is what I would suggest to remove the flywheel. I would remove the center (crank)bolt and add a few rubber washers behind the shoulder of the bolt and loosely re install it, then install and use the puller on it. When the flywheel pops off it will stay loosened on the crank it won't fly off and no one gets hurt. What do you guys thing?
  3. yamihami
    Thanks guys, I love this place we build such a bank of knowledge, now I know what I'll be doing this winter when the missus is not keeping my feet warm.
  4. yamihami
    Hi guys so let me if this is right if I understand all this. When by bike is really hot( stop and go at the US Canada border) any attempt therafter to start the bike until it has cooled down has cause this crazy monkey with a hammer in the engine. I"ve read that this could possibly be caused by a damaged starter clutch engagement mechanism (loose bolts(3) or cracked housing). As the noise only happens when the starter seems to have a hard time to turn over and hesitates as if the voltage were insufficient you might be suggesting that the problem probably resides in a bad starter design and all I might have to do is replace with a 4 brush starter or solder an extra ground lead inside my 2 brush starter and all might be okay:fingers-crossed-emo
  5. yamihami
    Thank you gents I will closely study these and keep you posted
  6. yamihami
    I have the intention of making my own cable adapter for using my mp3 player through my 5pin din plug (91 Venture). I now am looking for the proper wiring schematic for a 5pin din male connector plug to 3.5mm male connector plug. The wires coming out of the 5pin din are black, white, red, yellow and shielded. Thanks guys
  7. yamihami
    Just want to say congrats and thanks. I'm an ACS tech 31 years still serving aiming for 35 AND THEN.... I then plan to tour all of Canada and the USA. Best of luck. Soldier on!
  8. yamihami
    I have a deep 2 inch scratch on the left tube of my 91 Venture. Its past polishing and I will have to replace it. The PO put on fork gaiters now I know why. Will be looking for a good fork tube this winter. If someone has a scratchless unmarred and straight one I may be interested
  9. yamihami
    Very nice I liked it, it also gave me an idea soooo here's my 2 cents. Just another way to skin a cat.
  10. yamihami
    Here is a pic of the broken shaft.
  11. yamihami
    I had the same problem on the 91 venture I acquired in August at first I was puzzled the PO said he bought the bike second hand with that problem and he beleived it was NORMAL. :whistling:Any how I swapped it out with a used one I found on ebay. I kept the broken pieces I think they make an excellent conversation opener. I will post pics. Hmmm would be interesting to have a pole to see how many broken pinions gear shaft nuts have broken. I had a friend who had a Seca 750 which in 84 was also my first machine. Anyway he also broke the shaft nut trying to do a wheely. I guess these Yamaha parts are not over engineered. My second bike is a BMW K100RS and I did manage to do a 6 inch off the ground wheely many many years ago when I was slightly younger and nothing ever broke and I have had the rearend off for lubing the splines and there was no visible damage. Me thinks German over engineering. PS I have always done my maintenance as requested. People seem to think shaft drive meens no maintnance but cleaning and lubing the splines as required is a must. BTW I was surprised to find out that on the Mk II's the oil in the final drive splashes up past the bearings and the pinion gear to lube the splines so there is no requirement for greasing them.
  12. yamihami
    Wow! amazing write up. Now I know why my bike doesn't need choke to start. At first I thought this was a very good thing. Now I know this is because my pilot circuit (jet) is probably(to rich) out to much. Just wondering if the POs played around with these settings and did they on all 4 carbs?
  13. yamihami
    No the PO had gutted the circuit board and basically hard wired the switches. The display was non functioning and he had removed the pressure sensor output and installed a small dia. tubing and a gauge that he had put under the false tank. I took all that off and found all the parts i needed on ebay to make it stock again. Now it works like it supposed to sweeeet.
  14. yamihami
    thanks for the info
  15. yamihami
    My controller was kaput so I replaced it. The broken one's display read in kg/cm3 the used one I replaced it with is in PSI which is fine. I was only wondering if either display could be selected by simple button magic or are they US bikes in PSI and CDN bikes in kg/cm3.
  16. yamihami
    I had to replace my class controller and I was wondering if there was a way to change the display from psi to kg/cm???
  17. yamihami
    I recieved the final drive I bought from ebay. I'm going to open 'er up and check the condition inside. Then put it all back together. I think I'll keep the broken gear as a great conversation piece.
  18. yamihami
    i just acquired a 3rd hand 91 venture, awfull noisy rear end noise on deceleration. Opened her up and tadah! i found the culprit loose sheared pinion nut. the guy I bought it from said he didn't know what the noise was and that he had been riding it this way since he bought it 4 years ago. hmmmmmm. Any how I found a 87 pumpkin on ebay just waiting for the shipping cost. Funny thing though the pinion gears were very polished further examination showed there was no backlash between the 2 gears and their operation was somewhat binding. Could this have directly induced the fractured shaft??? BTW the bike has 72,000km
  19. yamihami
    I found my problem the treaded shaft that is part of the pinion gear, that holds the female spline socket onto the pinion gear in the final drive was sheared off. This was causing the racket. It would still drive but under deceleration it would cause the pinion gear to move out and caused the racheting noise of the 2 broken peaces. What did not help is I did not have any backlash between the gears. This caused excessive binding between the 2 gears and probably led to the breakdown.
  20. yamihami
    Today I found my problem the treaded shaft that is part of the pinion gear, that holds the female spline socket onto the pinion gear in the final drive was sheared off. This was causing the racket. It would still drive but under deceleration it would cause the pinion gear to move out and caused the racheting noise of the 2 broken peaces. What did not help is I did not have any backlash between the gears. This caused excessive binding between the 2 gears and probably led to the breakdown. The bike only has 72000 km now I now why. I guess the previous owners did not like the sound much.
  21. yamihami
    Update I have spoken to a Yamaha mechanic about my problem. He pointed more towards the drive unit, he told me to check the backlash in my u-joint and the pumpkin. Itook the everything apart the final drive unit, the swing arm and the drive shaft everything appears to be very healthy ie normal backlash good bearings good splines. The only thing I noticed that was not normal is there appears to be missing the oil seal and washer plate that are according to the tech drawings suppose to be inside the swing arm on the u joint end. There is also some writing (magic marker) on the big 3 hole flange that holds the u joint against the output side of the engine casting. I will take a pic and post if I can.
  22. yamihami
    You misunderstood me I had not yet reinstalled the disc and plates there was nothing on as I was having this problem. Anyhow I solved the problem (to be truthfull a friend came over and we brain stormed the problem) I removed the slave cylinder and noticed I had probably unseated the seal as it was out to much. The slave cylinder was full of brake fluid and since there was to pressure plate to move the puck back into the cylinder it was probably jammed there and it would not return. Problem solved everything is alright. I do have a question for the experts I measured the thinkness' of the disc all my disc measure .119 in. Should I replace them with new ones. BTW my diaphram spring is well within specs. The problem is my clutch engages only at the last 1/4 inches of lever travel. BTW I had alot of slime and gunk inside the slave cylinder and the brake fluid was very dark. Would this affect grab point.
  23. yamihami
    Well I just finished examining everything I jumped the gun to fast the clutch boss is nice and tight on the shaft and there is no play hence good bearing its just the basket that has a slight movement I am able to move it in and out very slightly and there is only a hint of lateral play. I guess this is normal as you say I just wonder how tight the bushing you are mentioning is supposed to be. Now here is something else I removed the short shaft and the bearing to examine them, I then tried to depress the clutch lever only to realize that it is jammed that is to say the long clutch rod going through the center of the clutch shaft is jammed just won't budge. What gives I am stumped???
  24. yamihami
    As soon as I get home I will fabricate a special removal tool then remove the boss and the basket and visually check the bearing. I'm psyching myself up though for an engine removal.
  25. yamihami
    Just to make sure we are talking about the same part its also called the clutch housing. Mine moves in and out slightly and also wobbles side to side. I can only imagine what the gear mounted to this housing has been doing to the driven gear. I hope there was no damage done. The guy I bought it from had it for 4 years with this noise. ouffff.
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