M61A1MECH

Check you battery connections make sure they are clean and tight, if that does not fix it, may be time to get a new battery, mine was doing the same when the battery was about 6 years old, new battery and the problem is gone. Seems as if there is a current draw that causes the battery to get below a certian point it drops the voltage on the memory holding circuit below the level required to keep the RAM from dumping.

Pinged a buddy of mine that is going thru Motorcycle Mechanic Institute now, he has access to all of the TSBs. See if he can cough it up.

You can also go to Electrical Connection http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm they have an isolator.

This one will work, you substitute the wire for the back up lights for the tail tail light. http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/119177.html

The fins on the cylinders are fake, the are just bolted on, you will see three socket head cap screws in each one , if you remove those screws the fins will lift right off. The bike does not need them for cooling like on an air cooled motor,but do not try to run the bike with out them, because they do hold some coolant drain plugs in place and if you run the motor with out the fins , the drain plugs will pop out and you will lose all of the coolant.

I heard from Mike that they were able to find homes for all of the harnesses I sent up for International, Maybe it has not been installed yet.

I just received an email from REVJONG asking to buy one of my aux harnesses for his Venture, he needs it by next Wednesday. I am on vacation and will not be back to Florida until Wedneday, so I cannot help him out in time. What I would like to ask is if someone has recently purchased a harness from me for their Venture , and have not installed it would you be willing to send it to REVJONG and then I will replace yours as soon as I get back home. Here is the post where he was asking about the best way to add some lights, if you want to contact him personally that is fine , then we can work out the details to get you a replacement. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81734 Thanks so much Steve Kowalcky AKA M61A1MECH

Heather, thank you for the post, I as many did not expect this day to come, I am glad that he had family with him when he passed on to a much better place. I too have one of his grills and will remind everyone that sees it what a great guy your dad was.

What are you wanting to power up? The circuit for the tail light is under the seat near the battery, it is switched and is on when ever the ignition is on, but would be careful about how much load I put on that, you do not want to lose your signal lights because of another circuit over laoding it. If you wanting to add LEDs or something that would be the right place to do it, and I have a plug and play harness that will save you having to cut into the bike's wiring.

Yes, the original versions of the AC-130H "Spectre" had two, along with a 40mm cannon and a 105 Howitzer. After 1994 the 20mm Vulcans were mostly removed, a 25mm version has replaced the two 20mm guns. see this link for info on the 130 Gunship http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockheed_AC-130

No but you can get these http://tailgunnerexhaust.com/?product=stealth-fighter.

What my handle was all about. Here ar esome photos of a typical 20 mm Vulcan Cannon, what the US Air Force call an M61 and in some configurations M61A1. Wish I had a dollar for every one I ever worked on and a nickel for every dummy round I ever cycled thru them. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/89/Vulcan1.jpg/300px-Vulcan1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M61_Vulcan&h=226&w=300&sz=18&tbnid=FRM7VScO4BzoVM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=119&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dvulcan%2Bcannon%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=vulcan+cannon&usg=__HhtnG516bRrWIZUahMUxvg9KBbI=&docid=T5kLv8yU-xtyqM&sa=X&ei=s2YiUuLrIYXc8wTd14GYDw&sqi=2&ved=0CD0Q9QEwAg&dur=5692#imgdii=FRM7VScO4BzoVM%3A%3Be0RzGVpg1h6FIM%3BFRM7VScO4BzoVM%3A

Looks like it , I googled the name and came up with this http://www.oemcycle.com/ Never heard of them or did busines with them.

Good meet, thanks for the photos.

PM sent to FuzzyRSTD

Check this out, http://www.bikeairusa.com/home.html, pretty spendy, but looks like it works according to the reviews. Hey Brake Pad, this guy is in your back yard, 5500 MIlitary Trail STE # 22-303 Jupiter FL 33458 US, you need to stop in and have him give a system to demo at next year's International.

Air pressure for the front forks and rear shock are a matter of personal preference. The factory recommends 0 psi in both. The max pressure for the front forks 7 psi and they need to be exactly the same, best way to fill them is with a zero loss hand pump, DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF AIR COMPRESSOR. The max pressure for the rear is 57 psi, same here use a hand operated zero loss pump. These can be purchased at your local dealer. Tire pressure is best matched to the manufacturer's recommendations, Yamaha publishes recommended pressures for the stock tires, if different tires are installed the factory pressures may not be high enough. Metzler recommends something like 50 psi, Dunlop recommends 40 psi for the E-3s, I am sure Avon has a yet different pressure for their tires. If you tell us what tires you have I am sure someone will have good advice for you. Welcome to the forum.

Jeff See you Saturday, If you ride what route are you taking? 95 or US 1? Let me know and the approximate time I will see if I can pick you up on the way, you are going to be going right by my place (more or less).

or the grass being greener on the other side of the fence syndrom.

Cool, glad to hear you worked out the issues.

This one (see link below) will work and by adding a few diodes it can be set up for brake and turn functions along with the run function. I installed one not long ago, replacing one that was similar but only run and brake function. http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Red-Lens-Hi-Mount-Center-ID-Bar-11-LED-Stop-Turn-Tail-Light-Trailer-Truck-RV-/370861046137?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56590a7979 See here for wiring diagram to have turn and brake function. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=782597#post782597 Here is link to installing the light bar see the item under electrical tech section "Signal Dynamics Light Bar Install" http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=331 I have an alternate method for installing this type of light bar, if you are interested, PM me and I will send them to you. Also if you would like to wire in what ever you decide on with out cutting any wires, see my add in the classified section. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35

Good looking group wish I could have made it, but work got in the way. Maybe next year.

First I want to say , very glad to hear that you are OK, very sorry to hear about your bike. There are some very good low mileage Ventures out there, but it may take some time to find just the right one.

Aircraft wiring commonly use what they call current sensors, essentially a relay that is energized if there is current (complete circuit) flowing to the device in question. That current sensor closes or opens a relay type set of contacts to either light an indicator or turn one off. If the device fails or is turned on the indicator lights up or goes out. Should be able to adapt a similar circuit to a bike.

On the left side just forward of the rear exhaust pipe and above the cover you wanted to take off to inspect for the leak in your other post you will find a rubber flap, that is where the bleeder is, is that where you bled the clutch? Should be able to trace the lines from there. I just looked at mine, on the left just forward of the air box and then again just in front of the front cyclinder there are junctions where the clutch line converts from rubber hose to steel tubing, that tubing incased in a rubber protective cover goes down and passes under the motor and then turns straight up to where the slave piston is and the bleeder is. If you take the rubber door off where the bleeder is you can see down in there a bit, but there not much to look at, I bet that slave piston is not fun to get out. Good luck, keep us posted on what you find.