M61A1MECH

You will need to notch the 2x4 block on the left front position to miss the kickstand switch, if you do not, you will likely be buying a new side stand switch, shortly.

Well in sunny Cali you may not need those gaskets, but in wet FL, those signals will fill up with rain water first time you get caught in one our frog drowning down pours. You may want to drill some small drain holes in the bottom of the lenses or the housings, just in case it rains some where down the road. just sayin.

If you are getting head shake and you are looking to cure it, probably need to tighten up the bearing in the steering head.

Just to be clear, the oil should be just below the half way mark in the window, WHEN THE BIKE IS STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN, not on the side stand. If you are checking oil on the side stand and you can see oil in the window, it is over full. If you had rings bad enough to blow oil thru the valves back into the carbs, you would be blowing blue smoke out the exhaust so bad everyone would think you were part of mosquito control crew.

Try McMaster Carr here is alink that may help http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-rods/=ox5u41, this for a "High-Speed M2 Tool Steel, Hardened Undersized Rod, 3.50mm Diameter, 2-7/8" Length" , catalog # 2900A267, $2.82 I did a quick check on the ID of the hinge on my 07, but a little hard to get a real accurate measurement with out pulling the pin out and measuring the pin it self. You may want to pull the other one and measure it to get a more exact measurement. Surely wil be some standard metric size.

:sign yeah that:I like Woody's idea, could be stores, restaurants, Dairy Queen , gas or gift card for X$.

Here is the stuff Gray Ghost is talking about. http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/loctite-freeze-release-7008.htm Interesting.

You can send me a PM thru this site. You can contact me at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com you can send a message from my add here on Venturerider http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35 if all of that fails call me at 386-290-6163 Chris, Just sent you a PM thru Ventuerider

I do not know the sizes of the jets off hand, but they are not all the same, unless the PO did some mods to the exhaust system or other performance mods it is doubtful they changed them, but if they had them all out at the same time and were not careful, they could have put the wrong ones in the wrong place. It may be prudent to have a shop put an exhaust gas analyzer onthe bike to know exactly what is going on. If you need the jet sizes by location I am sure I can dig that up this evening after work.

The best way to wire a Venture for a trailer is to use a powered isolator. If the trailer does not have separate lights for the brakes and the turn signals , like bike does you will need a 4 wire to 3 wire converter. These are the same as used or cars, they are made by folks like HOPPY and CURT.

If you just want to do a carb synch, I can do that for you. lf you are talking about needing to R&R them for an overhaul, then you may want someone with experience doing that. Daytona Fun Machines is a good reputable dealer, they have been working on my two Royals since 1998 never any issues. The service manager is very good, he owns a V-Max so he knows the power plant backwards and forwards.

Chris Check out my add http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35 before you go to wiring the bike for the trailer, makes it a lot easier.

We do have a member in Inverness. FL.

Try this link to the 2nd gen tech section. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705

Here is a link to a tech article on one way to use it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38187 Here is link to where you can buy the contacts and wire seals that will fit that connector. http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html Also here is cut and paste from the web site so you know exactly which one to get.

Go here http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4201&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-tour-deluxe&cat=35 it should help a little bit. In stock ready to ship.

Man!! Did this post take a weird turn or what, I just thought the video was interesting never expected it to create a controvesy, but the discussions are interesting also.

ablumny On the light bar that Condor has , you cannot get to the lights or the solder joints with out breaking the sonic weld that seals the plastic pats on the asembly, as I noted in an earlier post to do that is likelyto destroy the light bar or at least be very time consuming and resealing the plastic parts with any certiany that it will be leak proof is like to be difficult at best. You are completly correct about solder joints failing from time to time due to vibrations, and reflowing the solder is often a very valid fix, I am just not sure it is the way to go in this case. Much depends on what you value your time at, for me spending a couple of hours trying to repair a $20.00 item that is readily available on line is a losing proposition, especially if I consider my time worth what they pay me at work, and my personal / family time is worth way more that what I am paid to earn a living.

Condor You said The light bar we are talking about does not have dual intensity LEDS, they all burn at the the same intensity , the visual impact is caused by changing the quanity of lights that are illuminated (when you brake the 8 LEDs that are off come on) . So if you connect all 11 to be on for running lights and then you hit the brakes there will be no change in the level of illumination of the bulbs. To effect that with out special dual output LEDs you would need to add a resistor to the running light circuit, that will drop the effective voltage that gets to the LEDs and then the brake light circuiy would be wired to a line with out the resistor(s) and they will illuminate at full brightness. My fear is, that in order to effect enough of a difference in the level of illumination between the two states, (run vs brake) it will make the running light level so low that it will be of no real gain to you visibility. I doubt that running lights on bikes (other than the head light) contribute very little to the daytime visibility the running lights are more for night time operarions, those 3 LEDs do show pretty well at night, and the 8 show well day or night when used for brakes. and with the three on for running and then the 8 on when braking, the whole bar of 11 is on that is pretty obvious to most drivers behind you. If you really want to get their attention install a brake light modulator that flashes the brake lights for a short period when first applied, that really makes people stand on their brakes behind you, it is like a visual dope slap.

OK here is how to tell who manufactured the unit, between the fourth and the fith LED on the red lens will be embossed with DOT or SAE on one side and the manufacturer name on the other side, (left / right). I have one I just took off , it is the run and brake type, no turn signal function, is made by ILC, the model number I have is K501, I was not succesful in finding their web site. What I replaced it with was one from R&P Carraiges, http://www.mariahbright.com/, this one has the turn signal option, here is a link to it on EBAY, it is made by Tecniqinc, but Tecniqinc will not sell to the public, only dealers. http://www.tecniqinc.com/pages/products_t100.html In my book for the price to replace the light bar, verse my time to try and maybe repair the one that is broken, I would come out better just buying a new one. Now having said that, I am willing to send you the one I just took off for the cost of shipping, but that is likely to be as much s the price of a new one from R&P because they have free shipping and the part only costs $20.00. One word of advice, if you go for the turn signal option light bar, be advised that unless you add some dodes to your wiring , you cannot get both turn and brake, only one or the other. I added the required diodes to my new install and they work great, big red turn signals and a big red brake light bar, that even the Blue Haired Ding Bats here if Florida can see in the day time. If you need help with that option I can supply the needed info or for a nominal fee build the set up if you need.

Check out this video. http://www.wimp.com/demonstrationmomentum/

Stock links from my 07 measure 6-7/8" hole to hole (center to center).

Wow, bad luck, that could have been very bad. Possibly the RR was bad from factory, you have to be a bit careful with dielectric grease, it protects from moisture , but does not conduct electricity, too much and you will not get enough contact and that will cause a high resistance that will result in temperature increase. Try these two places for the connector, Eastern Beaver is in Japan and has a min order requirement, he ships fast and parts normally arrive in about 5 days if you hit the cycle just right. http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

Tooch You miss read the add on that web site it clearly says NO hardware is supplied. See copy paste below from the web site. My questionn was if is the price listed for the pair or for one each, I did not see where it said, and because the show a pair in the add I "assumed" the pricing was for the pair. Note: No mounting hardware, mounting brackets, mounting kits and/or any accessories (required for installation) will be included with the purchase of our Replacement Wind Deflectors.

On the Venture , don't you have to select HS on the controller head to make it swap over to the headseats? I do not think it automatically recognizes that a head set is plugged in, because I have a set and I do not use the earphones , just the mic and listen to the CB thru the speakers, it never goes to HS mode when I plug it in, always stays on speakers unless I change it.