M61A1MECH

Cool, glad to hear you worked out the issues.

This one (see link below) will work and by adding a few diodes it can be set up for brake and turn functions along with the run function. I installed one not long ago, replacing one that was similar but only run and brake function. http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Red-Lens-Hi-Mount-Center-ID-Bar-11-LED-Stop-Turn-Tail-Light-Trailer-Truck-RV-/370861046137?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56590a7979 See here for wiring diagram to have turn and brake function. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=782597#post782597 Here is link to installing the light bar see the item under electrical tech section "Signal Dynamics Light Bar Install" http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=331 I have an alternate method for installing this type of light bar, if you are interested, PM me and I will send them to you. Also if you would like to wire in what ever you decide on with out cutting any wires, see my add in the classified section. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35

Good looking group wish I could have made it, but work got in the way. Maybe next year.

First I want to say , very glad to hear that you are OK, very sorry to hear about your bike. There are some very good low mileage Ventures out there, but it may take some time to find just the right one.

Aircraft wiring commonly use what they call current sensors, essentially a relay that is energized if there is current (complete circuit) flowing to the device in question. That current sensor closes or opens a relay type set of contacts to either light an indicator or turn one off. If the device fails or is turned on the indicator lights up or goes out. Should be able to adapt a similar circuit to a bike.

On the left side just forward of the rear exhaust pipe and above the cover you wanted to take off to inspect for the leak in your other post you will find a rubber flap, that is where the bleeder is, is that where you bled the clutch? Should be able to trace the lines from there. I just looked at mine, on the left just forward of the air box and then again just in front of the front cyclinder there are junctions where the clutch line converts from rubber hose to steel tubing, that tubing incased in a rubber protective cover goes down and passes under the motor and then turns straight up to where the slave piston is and the bleeder is. If you take the rubber door off where the bleeder is you can see down in there a bit, but there not much to look at, I bet that slave piston is not fun to get out. Good luck, keep us posted on what you find.

Yeah and only one state away.

I had the same problem so I went to the local mom and pop hardware store looking for inspiraton , hoping to find some sort of suitable foam with sticky backing, but what I found was some self-forming graphite valve packing, 3/32" diameter. It worked pretty good it is formable and can be stuffed into the gap very easily. That was a few months ago, I have not had the tank off since to see how well it has faired, but can not image that it would be any wose than the foam that had deteriorated into mush, and it is not giong to stick to the plenum when I want to take it all apart again. A 24" long piece costs abour $2.00.

Owen, Those tube are extenal to the engine, on my 07 and on my 98 when I had it, the out side of the tubes would get oily, probably from the air under the bike pushing the oil that comes out of the tubes around. Those tubes are cut at a 45 degree angle and the angle should be pointing to the back of the bike, that way when you are moving at a good clip there is a low pressure area behind the tube and helps to suck the oil out, where goes in all of that disturbed air under he bike is anyones guess, but it could wash back onto the outside of the tubes. If you pull the seat and the fuel tank you can trace those lines, they are routed in the wire tray that runs along the fuel tank then dive down some where under the seat, battery area and then thru the frame work. I see no reason to worry about what is behind that cover. Take a rag and clean the tubes off so they are dry, take a cotton swab and swab the inside of the tubes to get out as much residue as you can out. Run the bike in neutral for a good bit rev it up and then check for oil residue on the tubes or under the bike, my bet is you will not see any thing untill you take her back on the road and get some miles at a decent speed on her , then you may se he drips start to form again. At that time, take the tank off and get into the air boxes and mop up the oil that is in the bottom of the boxes. I bet you will be surprized at how much oil is in there.

How much of a leak are you seeing? Those two hoses you mentioned are the drain tubes for the air boxes, pretty common for those to load up with oil or oil fumes because the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system dumps vapors and any oil that it sucks up right into the air boxes, and then those tube are there to drain the oil away so the airboxes do not fill up with oil. Most common problem is folks over fill the crankcase when the do an oil change. If the oil level is above half way in the sight glass with the bike vertical the crank case is over filled and the PCV system will suck the excess oil right up to the airboxes and eventally down thos e tubes to the ground. If the covers on the bike left or right do not have oil drips on them then it is unlikely they are the culprit. On the right side as you are sitting on the bike the cover to the rear of the motor has the clutch behind it. If the bike is on the side stand you can pull that cover and not get any oil loss, but you will need a new gasket before you put it back on, but there is nothing in there that should contribute to an external leak unless the cover is not installed correctly and then you should see oil on the cover or the bolts. I am not sure what is behind the cover you described on the left side of the bike, I never took that one off. The other possibility is therear shock blew a seal, that will look like and engine oil leak also.

If you put it on a shirt the shirt will never get dirty so no need to wash it, just shake it out and put it back on. If it is broken down by UV and you have to reapply it, will it stick to itself or will the reapplication just be repelled on the areas where it is still intact? If it repells everything what would you use to remove it besides elbow grease and abrasives. I wonder how well it would work on regular GPS units if you use one on you bike and get caught in the rain. Quick someone try it out, inquiring minds want to know.

eusa1 That's great, glad to contribute, that little bit.

Great video, wish I could have been there.

Thanks all, I thought maybe it was just me or a defective unit, but seems to be a common issue. The whole affair is not overly user friendly for the first time user, I think I have what I need for an up coming trip to Dallas, so I can navigate around with out getting lost to badly. Thanks again, I have pinged Garmin tech support , I will let you know if anything shakes out of that.

I just received a new re-conditioned Garmin nuvi 2555 GPS, it seems to work OK, but I have had it hooked up to my lap top for nearly two days trying to get the maps updated, the firmware upates and a couple of other updates, I get to the Garmin Express page and select the upgrades and it just sits there with two or three scrolling bars showing that it doing something, but it never gets done and under each scrolling bar it says waiting for other updates to complete. Anybody else have this issue with other Garmin products? Thanks

I have not seen one in person yet, but there has been a lot of chatter over on the Delphi forums about the new version of the DYNA 3K that just came out in the past few months and it is just as you described, no dip switches , you program or set up via the USB port. It could be that all you need to do is plug it in to your laptop or computer and then look for it as a new drive or external equipment and then open files or folders as you would any other program. I understand that they are more flexible in the set ups than the finite combinations of dip switch positions on the originals. They have also have noted that the web site for DYNA is not up to date and does not show the new model.

Running the tank dry like you did coupled with the fact that the strainer on the pick up tube was not there, probably is what did in your carbs. There is most assurdedly a bunch of crud in the very bottom of almost any fuel tank and you do not want that going into the carbs, that is why they put those screens on the pick up tubes and even the reserve pick up is not right on the bottom, always leaves that little bit of nasty in the bottom of the tank. Carbs do not like the nasty bits.

Yes, that is correct, for the years when there was no Midnight they had an S model to replace it.

PM sent, part is packed ready to go. No worries here, glad to help.

Venture S has more chrome from the factory, font forks, clutch an brake levers maybe the master cylinders and other stuff.

I have one, send me PM with an address I will drop it in the mail.

Jeff Would have loved to join you, but was probably working when you went thru the area , so no harm no foul, see you in few weeks. Glad to hear you enjoyed the place, we do not get down there often enough.

So what did you have?

I had a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic, and the low fuel light did work, but I did have to replace the sensor one time while it was under warrenty. I had the bike for 9 years and 96,000 miles, the light was still working when I sold it in 2007. I will say that I never totally depended on that light, I all ways set my trip meter so I knew how far I had gone on that tank, just in case the light did not work. I would usally try to run it down to where it needed to be switched to reserve before gassing up, if I was familar with the area and knew a gas station was with distance of the fuel left in the tank. Can not say that I have ever heard of any one having the stan pipe on the petcock come off, but there is always a first time.

The schematic is in the attachment, it is a seperate PDF file that you have to open. You are correct if you only have three wires , run, brake and ground then you cannot use it as a turn indicator. You need to have one like the one in the original post that has two seperate banks one on the left of center and one on the right of center that act as turn indicators when operated individually or as a brake light when operated together.