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Everything posted by saddlebum
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So thats what they call it ....always wondered about that
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Sorry...It wasn't planned that way.....
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The speed I don't mind But i cannot see myself looking at the pavement 6" ahead of the front wheel for 5 miles never mind 500 miles. I would have to learn to ride that thing like a unicycle just so I could look were I am going LOL
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happy easter everyone
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HAROLD!!...START THE CAR....START THE CAR or in this case WARDEN!! ....START THE CAR.... START THE CAR:backinmyday:
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Oh man.....does that mean all us 1st genners gotta drop down to 3rd gear now just so you can keep up...Bad enough we had to drop to 4th gear for the second genners ...now this . . . . . . . . . However its a sweet looking ride hope you enjoy ......Psssst I was looking at them myself but tell anyone and I will deny it.
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Happy Birthday Mike - Hope it was A great one for you.
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This is all very true. However for the DIY'r who cannot justify or afford purchasing one of the retail units just to do his own bike and maybe a friend or two, the homemade single gauge unit works surprisingly well and I doubt the average everyday rider would even notice the minor difference. As a matter of fact one of the guy's who I synced carbs for latter had the opportunity to check it with a carb tune and found it to be spot on. Although I purchased all the hardware new, just because I wanted it to look nice, I could have built it for nothing just by digging through my pile of Junk using tee and elbow fittings the way Carl built his which is were I got the idea from but just felt like embellishing it a little. Plus it makes for a pretty compact unit. The only draw back is you cannot observe all four cylinders at the same time which is a pretty minor issue and were you to build it with four gauges you would have to make sure all 4 were 100% in sync with each other.
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Whaaaat a NAKED garage floor - of all the nerve - have you no shame - what is this world coming to.
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You can always make one up http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?36518-home-made-carb-tune-tool The parts are available at princess auto except for the valves which I got at Lowes. If you have a bunch of brass laying around you can replace the Aluminum bar with three tee fittings and two elbows assembled together.
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Before butt connectors and heat shrink tubing one of my favorite splices was what was known as a telegraph or western union splice. I would then wrap it in splicing compound (now commonly known as Magic tape) then in later years with heat shrink tubing. I still prefer this splice today with fine or thin wires. You could combine this splice with the type of heat shrink that has a small ring of solder in it but a prefer to solder first then cover with heat shrink. Also with regards to weather proof connectors one of the most readily available sources is your local gm dealer. They carry connector kits and terminals of all sizes. See the attached link which is a GM document. Also truck dealers such as Volvo carry a lot of weather proof connectors and terminals The ones used for data link wires are quite small. This link shows a version of the terminal catalog though maybe not the latest version used by GM. Kit_J-38125-620H. http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/automotive/J-38125-620B%20Terminal%20Repair%20Booklet.pdf Also check out this link http://theelectricaldepot.com/index.php?cPath=7 This link shows the splice I am referring to. http://makezine.com/2012/02/28/how-to-splice-wire-to-nasa-standards/
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I cannot remember exactly but I think it was the equivalent of about a number ten screw. for drilling purposes the final hole should be about 1/2 to 2/3 the diameter of the threaded hole give. Start with 1/2 and you can always creep up a little larger if need be to accommodate the torx bit
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You can try using a drill bit the same size as the threaded hole and drill into the screw just enough to create dimple in the end of it. Then switch to a drill bit smaller than than the screw and drill a hole to drive a small long reach torx bit into ( the dimple drilled by the first bit should help to keep the second bit centered. Fill the hole with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple days. adding penetrating oil as needed. After a couple days drive in the small torx bit and gently start wiggling back and forth. Continue using penetrating oil and wiggling until it comes loose. I stress gently as you are now using a very small bit which can easily break. Once it starts to move keep working back and forth backing out a little more each time. remember not to use too much force even when it does start to move. Patience is key here.
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Hey not to loud there Oldgoat. I don't know about your driving laws down there but up here you have to have a Z endorsement for air brakes on your drivers license. If the ministry were to learn motorcycles have air air brakes the government cash cow would come up out of the pasture looking to have every biker up here pay to be retrained on air brakes and pay again every 5 years to be retested.
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Actually it's Lonna's pies I've been missing and thinking about........Ohhhh ok I admit I missed you, both on the site as well as in person. But its good to hear your not just sitting on your butt in a state of depression cause you miss us all soooo much but that your actually putting your time towards a worth while cause supporting those that are often forgoten despite all they sacrifice in the name of freedom. May God support you in your endeavors and keep you both in good health.
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Does anyone know anything about Diesel tractors
saddlebum replied to Dragonslayer's topic in Watering Hole
If the tractor sat for a while or ran out of fuel, it may have lost its prime. Some have a primer pump for this purpose which includes a bleeder screw. you open the screw and work the pump until the fuel runs clear out of the bleeder then close it and go to step 2 if it still does not fire. If it does not have a primer pump go directly to step 2 Most tractors have individual high pressure fuel lines that run from the high pressure pump to the cylinder head, usually one for each cylinder. loosen all the lines off (preferably at the head) but do not totally disconnect them. Make sure the fuel filter is full of fuel. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch the fuel lines. Eventually one by one fuel should start spitting out of the fittings. As each one starts spitting fuel out tighten the line while your helper continues to crank the engine. Quite often it will start to fire on the cyl that you just tightened the line on. Continue watching the lines and tighten each one as it starts spitting fuel out. Even if the engine starts running on one or two cylinders continue following the procedure. You want to tighten up the lines as the fuel is spurting out, and yes it can get messy. If it still does not fire or fuel does not appear at the lines and you are in a cold climate it may be because of water in the fuel which has frozen. Pour some methyl hydrate in the fuel tank (a cup or two should do) and remove the fuel filter. drain the filter or replace it. Fill the filter about 1/4 with methyl hydrate and top up with fuel. Then follow the steps above. You can also use an anti-gel additive if the fuel has gelled following the same steps. Gelling occurs when fuel meant to be used in warm weather is used or left in during cold weather. If you try to use ether (which is fine I use it all the time) to fire it up do not use too much (you can tell by the sound, best is to spray while someone else is cranking over the engine so it gets sucked in with the airstream) make sure whether or not it has glow plugs or an intake heater. If it does disconnect the wire from the glow plugs or heater, I have seen people blow the intake manifold off by not disabling the heater. Some have an electric shut off solinoid that you may need to check out and in some engines simply removing this solenoid will allow the engine to run. If it still will not run you may need to look further such as a pickup line sucking air or faulty pump. Some engines use two pumps. One is a pickup pump which draws fuel from the tank and delivers it to the injection pump and can be mounted independently. Some are mechanical and look like the old lever type pumps off a gas engine, some are gear pumps and some are built into or onto the injection pump. -
Whoa missed this one sorry Ray. Hope you had a very Happy Birthday.
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Name of Restaurant WINDMILL RESTAURANT Street Address 2238 Mountainside Drive City Burlington State or Province ON Website (Optional) - Quality of Food Fantastic Quality of Service Fantastic Biker Friendly? (Parking, Trusted Location, Etc.) Yes Kind of Food? (Mexican, Chinese, etc.) North American Alcohol Served? - Additional Comments Small restaurant buried in a small industrial section but well worth visiting. It is my #1 favorite place to go for breakfast.
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I just received an email from Chabicheka (Abdul) today bearing the sad news that on Monday March 9th at 3:40 PM his Wife Shah who has not been well for some time, peacefuly stopped breathing.My thoughts and prayers are with you my friend and may Shah rest in peace and her days of suffering past.
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Just received an email from Chabicheka (Abdul) bearing the sad news that on Monday March 9th at 3:40 PM his Wife Shah who has not been well for some time, peacefuly stopped breathing.
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I saw it and I signed up looking forward to good times, good food, good company great people ......and yeh you too Carl
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Sooooo Carl you finally got the hint ---For those of you not sure what I am talking about go to this link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/meet-n-eats/98415-kitchener-ontario-white-north.html#post895342
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Congratulations on being able to meet each other. And Dingy that was a real great thing you did and we should all be proud of you.
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Looks to me like you are going to have to put a trailer hitch on that old scoot of yours.......Since there probably is no more room for stickers on the old girl, your going to have to tow one of them rolling bill board's behind you to put all the Canadian stickers on.