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tpalshadow

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Everything posted by tpalshadow

  1. tpalshadow
    I am about 45 minutes NW of there in Mason City. Love Pickers btw...I'm gonna pop on that.
  2. tpalshadow
    Any luck? Just got back from our trip to Duluth. It was great but halfway through my wife accidentally dropped the GPS and that went bye-bye. Finished the trip just using the tach and traffic to estimate speed. Made it safely with no tickets!
  3. tpalshadow
    True, but I'm sure the GPS would always be in a standby mode where it keeps its position or at least a semi close fix so the acquisition is always close. My cell phone has a program called Quick GPS which does something to allow faster acquisition. I would estimate it takes about 5 seconds for my phone to get a fix using Google Maps.
  4. tpalshadow
    I don't agree with that, but to each his/her own!
  5. tpalshadow
    OK, I am thinking that the problem might lie in the speedo gear down by the wheel since it isn't spinning regularly or at a steady pace. The lower cable end looks like yours with a metal square bit on the end. The upper is squared off and it does measure 41 3/4" so I don't think it is the cable. So....now I need to probably replace the lower speedo gear unit. Anyone have one laying around they want to get rid of...preferably on the cheaper side of things? Thanks for ALL the help, I think we have it narrowed down. I guess I'll just leave the inner speedo cable out for the trip to Duluth this weekend and use the GPS speed. Not ideal but manageable. Thanks again!
  6. tpalshadow
    Gary, thanks for all the help. I did get the cable to pull out from the bottom. When I did I noticed that the top and bottom of the cable look nothing alike are they supposed to be identical? If so I guess my cable is broke, and the end must be stuck in the actual speedo? If I recall I measured it 41 3/4" but I would have to go back to verify. The picture with the two ends of the cable on the left is what was in the wheel portion, the right goes up the cable. It does, but it goes on off on off. Is it supposed to spin constantly? It also will only spin if I push it in and kind of angle the end just right. Sometimes I had to start it spinning to get it to spin. Also the last two pictures show that the end can sit in the bottom or be forced in farther, not sure if you'll be able to see it on here.
  7. tpalshadow
    First let me thank everyone for reading and trying to help me out. Also I apologize if my terminology isn't accurate. This is the first motorcycle I've owned where I have to work on things and it is really frustrating me right now! OK, just took the headlight, windshield and dash out (far enough to reach) and unscrewed the speedo cable. - shot some oil up the speedo where it goes into the dash - the actual speedo cable sticks out almost exactly 1" from the end of the speedo outer cable when screwed in at the bottom and not the top test ride, no speedo. SO... + before this whole failure the speedo would fluctuate until I hit 25 mph then steady out and behave normally + is the 1" that it sticks out enough to engage what it needs to in the dash? + is it possible I broke something in the speedo gear next to the front wheel when I was putting it back on the other day? + is there a way to remove the speedo cable from the bottom gear by the weel? When I unscrew the outer cable to get to the actual cable, I can't figure out how to pull it out of the gear. do I just need to pull REALLY hard? Thanks again for everyone taking the time to help me out. I suppose I can use the GPS for speed on our trip but would really like to figure something better out.
  8. tpalshadow
    I would be interested in anything you don't mind getting rid of. Please let me know if you decide to let any of it go!
  9. tpalshadow
    I can't seem to get it to unplug from the bottom, should it just slide right out?
  10. tpalshadow
    So just take the headlight out and try to screw it in?
  11. tpalshadow
    I am really starting to get frustrated...perhaps I should have just bought a new bike instead of thinking it would be fun to wrench on this one! About ready to call off the motorcycle trip with the wife this weekend and take the car instead. Anyways, enough of my whining. My speedo was working fine but during the past week when I had both wheels off to replace the driveshaft oil seal and lube all the splines I decided to grease the speedo cable. No problem right? So I thought. I was just taking a test drive and, wham...speedo started flickering and then dropped to zero. Odometer no longer incrementing and blinkers not cancelling. I pulled over and pulled the cable out, looked just like it did the first time I pulled it out...long coil cable thing with a square head on the end. I'm assuming that means it isn't broken. Did I perhaps not get it seated all the way before, did I break something else? The speedo gear is in the slot of the front fork so I assume that is OK. I am wondering if I didn't route the cable properly around the forks as there is some rub on the rubber of the outer cable. I can post any pictures needed...just looking for some help...AGAIN!
  12. tpalshadow
    OK, is that the thing you turn when you drain the coolant that lets it flow down to the drain plug? And you are saying that should be at 2 o'clock when set to the run not drain position? Thanks!
  13. tpalshadow
    I replaced part 13 on this schematic: 214-11198-01-00 It was a little metal crush-type gasket. That is what I used to drain the coolant. I am pretty sure it isn't leaking, I've checked with toilet paper every 5 minutes for an hour after getting it hot and there was a puddle so it was leaking from somewhere, just pretty sure not the plug. http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/YAMAHA/1989/Motorcycles/327_waterpump.gif
  14. tpalshadow
    I heard you aren't supposed to put RainX on bike windshields, is this not true?
  15. tpalshadow
    OK, this could be something that I did but I'll put as much information in here as possible. I have a coolant leak, usually after riding the bike and it gets hot, looks like it is coming from the right side (looking forward of the radiator). I'm having some trouble tracking the leak down. The radiator itself always stays completly full. In fact if the bike is cold and I remove the cap fluid will come out. The temp when riding always stays right in the middle of the green after it warms up. The overflow tank is empty, and I just filled it to the proper level a few weeks ago after I changed the radiator fluid. There was a slow leak from the drain plug but I replaced the gasket under that and it isn't coming from there. The puddle is a little forward and left of where that puddle was! Both ends of the overflow tank hose are connected (assuming it connects right under the cap of the radiator), so it isn't disconnected. Here are the items I think may be an issue, I was wondering if I could get some help on where to start looking. - Overflow tank hose has a crack. - Overflow tank itself has a crack. - When I changed the coolant I wasn't exactly sure if the knob you turn (I believe they called it a drain diverter or something) got put back in the correct spot. I couldn't find the writing they talked about. Not sure if this would cause a leak. Thanks for any help you can give. Let me know if you need some pictures I can go snap some. I'm trying to get everything buttoned up as best I can before our first trip on the bike this weekend.
  16. tpalshadow
    I would put some street wheels on one of these: http://www.polarisindustries.com/en-ca/ATV-RANGER/2010/Mid-Size-Utility-Vehicles/RANGER-EV/Pages/Overview.aspx
  17. tpalshadow
    On your advice I just ordered a power window motor I have been needing for my car. Locally the best price I could find was $110. Shipped $44.15! Hopefully it works...it's getting hot!
  18. tpalshadow
    Goose, I do understand what you are saying but it raises the question why is there a thermostat to open or close at all? Why not just leave it open all the time and only have a switch that turns the fan on or off? To my knowledge all water cooled systems have a thermostat and you don't want them to be stuck open...definitely not closed. I think the speed at which the overheating occurs is much faster if it is closed, but it can still overheat if stuck open. I would assume the surface area which the liquid covers on the 'hot' side is much larger than the 'cold' side. If you had a big enough radiator where the surface areas were the same than I would say an open thermo would not be a problem. In summary I think the fact that we have a thermostat indicates it needs to operate properly.
  19. tpalshadow
    yes, can you please provide details of how to get a tax credit to pay for that?
  20. tpalshadow
    Do you have them wired in series or parallel?
  21. tpalshadow
    Good luck and ENJOY!
  22. tpalshadow
    Have you ever ridden the FJR?
  23. tpalshadow
    Get a Zuma with the big bore kit.
  24. tpalshadow
    I could see them put that 1900 stratoliner v-twin motor in the venture. That is FI...too bad it isn't a 4 cyl.
  25. tpalshadow
    OK, I will agree 100% with that.
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