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sgtjcj

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Everything posted by sgtjcj

  1. Your best bet for longevity on aluminum is powder coating or anodizing. If you want the aluminum look for the best dollar, polish and clear powder coat. If you want colors, powder coating gives you solid vibrant colors and anodizing gives a softer color. Solid color powder coating hides a multitude of sins and is the longest lasting, IMHO.
  2. I had a Liner for a year. Put 20k miles on it. I never found the seating position to be that great. It sits you up on top, like an old standard, rather than in the bike, like a real cruiser. I t-boned a 68 Chevelle. Not a lot of give in those. Totaled the Liner. Tried an FJR for a couple of years, but ended up going back to the RSTD, It is just way more comfortable.
  3. If you want Made in USA, full comfort, but not cheap, try these. These guys will make anything you want. And measured just for you. http://www.motorcowboy.com/
  4. Not a bad thought, but only one of my flats were near home/work. All the rest were on trips. On the trip I talked about above, I had that flat and caught 2 nails on the way home. I was riding with a group. They didn't get any. I collect the nails to protect the rest.
  5. As you can see here, the general consensus is to plug it. I have a lot of knowledge on this subject. I have picked up 9 nails/screws in the last 10 years on my MCs. I have either plugged them or swapped out the tube (on my tubed bikes). I have never had a failure. I've never used a patch, just the sticky string.
  6. I was on a trip from WA- CA one year. I got a slow leak outside Springfield Oregon, back when I was riding my Roadstar. I stopped in there and asked if they could get me in to change the tube. I was pulling a trailer and didn't feel like doing it myself. They said they didn't have the time. O.K. I have everything with me to do it myself. I went out to their parking lot and disconnected the trailer and began to do it myself. They came out and said I had to leave. I was a liability and their insurance wouldn't cover me if I hurt myself. I asked what would happen if a car got a flat. Could they change there tire. The conversation was over. They said to get off their property, NOW! I went across the street to a 7-11 and got some fix-a-flat. This stuff never works. But it got me on the road. I made it a few miles and the rear end started to bounce all over the place. I limped along to the next town, Cottage Grove. By this time it was 10 minutes to closing for them. I talked to the service guy. All their bays were full. He had me pull into the alley, gave me a jack and I pulled off the wheel. He fixed it and got me on the road in less than an hour. Now that's service!
  7. You just need the lids? I got rear ended a while back and my boxes got munched but lids are fine. Make offer.
  8. That's what I put in mine. If I had to do it again, I think I'd go with the load balancing resistors. The main reason is, you lose the turn signal cancellation with the electronic flasher.
  9. http://roadstercycle.com/yamaha_vmax_fuel_injector_cv_car.htm
  10. LED lights with built in resistors for the metric turn signals.
  11. Well, I did the Tsukayu bags. They are almost the same exact length, height, and angles as the originals. They are a tad wider, but the way I mounted them, they stick out almost exactly the same as stock. I had decided to buy a Corbin seat and backrest. This eliminated the need for the stock removable one. This was good. With the stock backrest and sidearms in place, the Tsukayu bags would have made the bike about 3" wider. I took off the stock backrest and hardware leaving the chrome pieces that connect to the fender and bag supports. The only semi permanent damage I had to do was take off the 6mm pin that the side arms lock to. This was easy enough with a pair of vice grips. A couple of bends back and forth, up and down, and they snapped right off below the surface. Next, after assembling the bags, I checked fit to the stock bag supports. I put some bolts into the stock mounting holes on the bike and set the box where I wanted it. Gave the box a little jiggle to scratch where the bolts were and the holes needed to be. I drilled the boxes where they were scratched. The bags needed to be stood off from the bolt holes a little. I used the rubber mounts from the old bags as spacers. I spent no extra money on mounting parts, and didn't use any that came with the bags. I was shocked at how well they fit using the stock supports. I thought I was going to have to take off the front bag rails, but they fit perfect as well. If anybody finds themselves in a similar situation where you have to replace the stock bags, don't buy the Yamaha ones. These are bigger by 25%, half the price, fit just as well, are fiberglass not ABS, and are much much stronger. Here are some pics.
  12. I had one of their originals. It was made from aluminum, sheet metal and stainless steel. It was mounted behind the passenger on my Roadliner. I t-boned a 68 Chevelle. My wife went over and me and the dogs stayed with the bike and tumbled a bit. My wife hyper-extended her knee, I broke 2 ribs on the bars, and the carrier took a good beating, but the dogs were fine. I had a Pomeranian and a chihuahua in the medium carrier. After all was said and done I got one of their new boxes. It was made from injection molded plastic. But the assured me it was just as strong as the original. It wasn't. The bottom started cracking on the first run. I went to call about it, but by then they were out of business. I'm guessing the cheaper materials was the reason they went out of business. It's not like the price was inexpensive either. These things were over $300 for the carrier, not including the mounting brackets. I would think they could have continued making the strong metal ones. My guess is, it was about making more profit. I would buy a new metal one without hesitation. But not one of their plastic ones.
  13. So I bought my new RSTD and some bonehead promptly rear ended me 3 weeks later. It crushed the fender and both saddlebags. I am debating about getting the tsukayu jumbo strong bags instead of the stock ones. They have 25% more volume than stock. Has anybody put these on their bike? I saw a Royal on the website with them, but was hoping somebody here has first hand experience. Thanks
  14. Indeed. I pulled a 1220 lb. trailer from Mississippi to WA state (3400 miles) with my RoadStar. These bikes will do whatever is asked of them.
  15. Being an Avon fan already, it was probably inevitable that I was going to buy one of the 2. My assumption was that the V rated gripped a bit more which in turn made it softer. I figured I would be buying the H rated for longevity. The rebate pretty much clinches the deal to buy right now. Thanks for the info.
  16. I am getting ready to get new tires for my RSTD. On my RoadStar, I have had 4 sets of Venom X, 1 Venom R, 2 Metz 880, and the stock tires. I found that I like the venoms more than any other tire for the heavy cruiser. I am looking at the 2 available for the RSTD one is rated "H" and the other rated "V". The H has a heavier load capacity. Do any of you Venom X owners have an opinion as to which tire would be longer lasting & why? Thanks
  17. I am looking to hook up my heated gear.My plan was to run a relay off of a wire that is only hot when the bike is running. Does anybody know of such a wire on the RSDT? I have them on my cars and have had them on 2 Yamahas. I have studied the wiring schematic but I can't find one. Thanks
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