Dave77459

I'm interested in coming an meeting the friendly folk from here. Unfortunately, my daughter has a volleyball tournament, and those whittle away entire weekends. There is a chance, albeit slim.

They are now offering classes in Sugar Land/Houston and other locations: https://www.ridelikeapro.com/html/SignUpForm.html shows you where. Here is the Houston website: http://www.ridelikeaprohouston.com/ I don't know if the schedule has been updated, but: January 10, 2009 - Spaces Available January 24, 2009 - Spaces Available February 7, 2009 - Spaces Available February 21, 2009 - Spaces Available March 7, 2009 - Spaces Available March 21, 2009 - Spaces Available April 4, 2009 - Spaces Available April 18, 2009 - Spaces Available Does some day work great for people? I am conflicted for the January dates, but after that I am free!

I washed then rode my bike a little yesterday, and rode to work today. It was 60F on the ride in, and when I go home in a bit it will be 75F. If it'll make you feel better, the sun is behind clouds for a moment or two. ;-)

Thanks! As for the detail, you never know where someone will get stuck and a little nudge will be helpful. Dave

Thought I'd share an "after" photo with y'all. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/3158548664_dcb8545aa1_m.jpg

I am sorry. Checking with my social secretary, I see that I am busy. :-( Still interested in RLAP though.

Can you link me? Would you be at all interested in the Ride Like A Pro class in Sugar Land instead?

Hey, I wrote up my solution and installation instructions here: http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30692 I based it off the Yamahamer's original description.

Inspired by THIS POST, I installed the Electrical Connection Turn Signal Conversion Kit (EC-01315, bought HERE) on my 2006 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. There was one crucial step that was puzzling, and I made a few false steps. What follows is what I would do if I had to do it over again. I am posting this in the spirit of sharing lessons learned. *Insert more disclaimer stuff* I got a rolling seat for Christmas as well as two magnetic parts dishes. These were great for not losing parts. Spend a minute and organize where you'll put stuff. 1. Put the bike up on a stand. I love the Carbon_One "RSV / RSTD Lift Frame Adapter" as sold HERE, especially with the legs. Puts the bike solidly at a good working height. Note that you will want the bike up in the air, since you will be working inside the rear fender. 2. Remove the blinker lens cover and silicone-glue in the LEDs as per the instructions. Note that although the LEDs are white, they will shine red. 3. We'll do the hard part one side at a time, and for fun's sake I'll pick the left side. The turn stalk is in two parts held together with a bolt. Before you loosen the stalk, remove this bolt to let the halves pull apart. Doing it while the stalk is on the bike is simply more convenient because it is solidly anchored. 4. Go inside the rear fender and unclip the left turn signal wire. There are three thin metal clips that hold the wire inside the fender. Bending them out and freeing the wire will give you slack. Note that dirt may fall out of your fender and into your eyes. Be smarter than me and use eye protection when you look up into a crud caked fender. 5. Remove the two bolts and heavy clip that hold on the left turn stalk. Note that the turn stalk may flop and ding your fender paint. Just be aware. You can push the slack wire out the exposed fender hole. 6. With the turn signals dangling, use a screw driver to pry apart the slot in the outer stalk, allowing you to separate the stalk into two parts. 7. Now, examine what you have and what you have to do. You will need to somehow thread the LED leads past the turn bulb seat and through the stalks. This is the step that stymied me for a while. Once I figured that out, the right side took 15 minutes. There are undoubtedly many solutions, but this is what I did: 8. I removed the bulb, then removed the two screws and thin metal strip that holds the bulb seat. 9. I used a metal skewer to slide from the stalk end into the blinker housing, between the rubber bulb seat and the metal outer housing. The bulb seat seems to be affixed, perhaps with glue but more likely a tight fit and age. I thought I was going to use the skewer to make a hole for the wires to go. Instead, I noticed the bulb seat was moving into the blinker housing. The skewer seemed to have broken whatever bond there was, holding the bulb seat in. Using a pair of pliers, I gave a gentle pull and the bulb seat came free. There were two wires still attached to the bulb seat, so I had to be gentle. 10. With that crucial step completed, I used the supplied vinyl tubing to thread the LED leads through the housing, then through the other part of the stalk. At this point, untwist the LED leads so that they will lay flat between the rubber bulb seat and metal housing. 11. Reinstall the rubber turn signal bulb seat. I ended up having about 2.5" of LED lead sticking out, situated on the bottom of the housing. I don't think it matters much, but make sure you keep plenty of wire showing as you shove the bulb seat back into place. I happened to have a 6mm socket handy, and it fit perfectly into the bulb seat. I used that to press the seat in evenly. I did not get it all the way back in how it was. Perhaps 1mm extra is sticking out and it threatens to contact the bulb. But since the bulb only blinks intermittently, I am unconcerned. If you are concerned, maybe you could take more care than me. *TIP: Use WD-40 to lubricate the outside of the turn signal seat. That will allow the seat to slide in easily and not damage the LED leads. Electrical Connection says that this is the location with the most frequent problems--a pinched wire. They will cut a groove into the seat with a Dremel, but that seems risky to me. See my post below describing the problems I had. 12. I went ahead and reinstalled the amber turn bulb. This involved installing the metal strip and two screws that holds the housing in place. This is when I noticed how slack my attempt to reinstall the bulb seat was. Oh well, the bulb fit in and works. The steps 8-12 above took me 2+ hours to figure out, even with some hints from VentureRider.org. Lots of anguish over this. But the result seems pretty good, and took 15 minutes on the other side. I think making sure the wires are flat is important. 13. I used the skewer inside the supplied vinyl tubing to push the tubing through the rubber gasket holding the wires through the fender. Then I fed the wire through the tubing and into the inside of the fender. Almost home! I pulled out the tubing when it was all fed through. 14. My wife helped me for two minutes as I re-installed the turn stalks. She held it in place while I pulled the slack out of the wire, pushed the wire back over the retaining clips (including the new LED leads), and installed the heavy clip + two bolts. Wiping dirt from my eyes, I crawled out and put the turn stalk halves together using the nut and bolt. It looks like there is some red locktite on this bolt, but I don't have any. I'm not sure anyways. I'll make sure to check the bolt. 15. Remove the license plate to expose wiring. I was greatly surprised to see that there was a bundle of wiring back there. This is, I think, what the instructions in the Shop Tip mean about the "mustache. " I have a mustache, but I don't think my bike does. Anyways, this is where I did all the connections. I snipped the zip-tie holding the bundle together. Maybe there is a better way to unbundle than snipping. Will someone let me know? Separating the bundle and looking at the wires, you can make sense of how the wires come out of holes on the fender from either side. You can see which wires feed the left turn signal and which feed the right turn signal. 16. [Optional] remove the brake light lens cover. That way you can see the blue and yellow wires that operate the turn signal. I found it handy to have that visual color cue as I did the wiring. 17. I used the same piece of vinyl tubing plus the skewer to poke through the fender again and into the license plate area. I pulled the slack out of the LED leads, removed the tubing, and got more dirt in my eyes bending the retaining clips back inside the fender. At this point, the left side wiring is done. If you are nervous (I was), turn on your lights to make sure your turn signal still works. 18. Do the right side, learning from the left side. If you want, you can do the connection stuff for the left side first so that you can see how the turn signal gasket goes back using the right side as a guide. The gaskets for the turn signal lenses constantly fell out for me, and I eventually just learned how they went back. I did the right side wire-routing first, before doing the connections behind the license plate. 19. With the right side done too, you can start the wire connections. I found this part scary, because I am not an electrician. But connecting the supplied heavy red-green-blue wires turned out to be easy. 20. I snapped the T-Tap onto the heavy Blue and Yellow wires from the brake light. 21. I wound together the two green wires from the supplied three-wire strands, and then crimped on a one connector. That's what they mean in the instructions that "The 2 greens can be connected together." (Hey, go down and read Step 30 and make a decision about how much wire you need.) 22. I wound together the two blue wires from the supplied three-wire strands, and then crimped on a one connector. That's what they mean in the instructions that "The 2 blues can be connected together." 23. Now you have a blue and a green connector ready to plug into the T-Taps on the blue and green break wires. What would you do? I assumed the blue wire connector went to the blue wire T-Tap. That turns out to be wrong. The supplied blue wire connects to the T-Tap on the yellow brake wire, and the supplied green wire goes to the T-Tap on the blue brake wire. If you do it backwards (I did), all that happens is that the LEDs come on all the time with brake-strength. If you do it right, they LEDs come on with running-strength, and power up when you pull the brakes. 24. At this point, I completed the instructions for the left side. That means connecting the supplied red wire to the black/white LED lead. Oh, it also means cutting the LED leads to length, and stripping the wire. You also use a T-Tap to connect the black LED lead to the colored turn signal wire. The turn signals have a color wire and a black wire; tap the colored one coming from the correct side of the bike. Left LED lead goes to left colored wire, etc. At this point, I experienced my first real dissatisfaction. The skinny LED lead simply does not want to stay in the crimped connector. I used vise grips to crimp the snot out of it, but I know it will pull out. I plan to get a soldering iron and make sure the connection is solid. Luckily, all I have to do to access these flimsy connections is remove the license plate. 25. Plug in the leads onto the LEDs glued to the left turn signal lens, following the directions. 26. I turned on the bike and, GLORY!, I had a dazzlingly bright red LED running light! Try the turn signals. It works! Pull the brake handle. The LEDs get even brighter (if you connected the blue/green wires correctly; supplied blue=>yellow brake, supplied green=>blue brake). 27. Turned off the bike, stuff the leads into the housing, make sure the gasket is correct, and screw the lens cover back on. The entire left side is done. 28. Do the right side, trying not to grumble too much about the crimped connector. Plug in the leads, test it, and reassemble the lens. Note: while the leads on the right side clearly had a black and white stripe, down at the plug end I really couldn't tell which wire was which. When I tested the light, the LEDs did not come on. Simply switching the plugs made it work. 29. With the wiring all complete now, test it to make sure the functions are working. At this point, I realized the LEDs were burning at full brake-strength all the time. I switched wires. You can never do too much testing. 30. [if you did step 16] Put the brake cover back on. 31. Now put all the wires back into the nook behind the license plate. Reinstall the plate. I realize now that I should have cut the red/green/blue wire bundles, because there is a huge amount of wire trying to be jammed into the small nook. You have maybe 6" of wire when you need only a couple inches. The pre-stripped wire ends were simply too appealing, and I should have cut them. Now I have no spare connectors so I am kinda stuck. I'm going to a electronics/electrical parts store to see if maybe I can find some more connectors. I'll cut the wires when I solder the LED leads. 32. There is no step 32, because after step 31, you are done. Well, at this point you can take pictures and feel a bit of pride. You can also let me know if I screwed something up in these instructions. Sharing lessons-learned is one of the best parts of this site.

I am stuck trying to figure how to get the wires past the bulb socket? How'd ya do that? (Photos on Flickr) http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3198/3145882138_64f00ca950_m.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/3145882160_4a92352a7b_m.jpg

I live in Houston and wouldn't mind a ride to Beaumont. BUT, I am pretty booked until after the New Years. Will you be back?

I have used Paypal for quite a while with no issues. As you mention it cuts down on having to transmit payment information every time. In addition, it stores shipping information as well. It makes the online merchandise experience much easier. Maybe not a good thing? BUT, you need to exercise caution because Paypal is frequently spoofed. (You think you are going there, but you are actually going to visit the Russian mob.) With a little care, Paypal has been quick and easy for me. Dave

Good observation! The dual rotors will certainly obscure most of the prettiness.

Awesome photos! Thanks!

Thanks for the pictures, they really help. I'm sorry I am so dense, but... In the diagram above, you replace the 20A Fuse block with your new fuse box? That way, you split off power using your fuse box rather than replicating all this for each item? How heavy a wire do you think it should be going between the fuse box and the battery? One project I am thinking about is dual air horns. In that case, line 1 would be the switched wire going to the existing horn? Should I run each horn to a separate fuse/relay or can I split the #5 wire coming out of the relay? I suppose there is no problem powering the relays with the Auxillary Power line (which I believe exists)? That way, whenever the key is in aux or on, my options are powered? One final question for anyone. Let's pretend that I want to do things right when powering items on the front end, so I take off the tank and run a wire under it. (I am assuming that is the right thing to do, mind you) Is it acceptable to include some spare wire pairs for future use? Can you tell that getting such great answers is making me excited?

I'd like to be put on the USA list. However, I saw that RLAP have opened a Houston branch only ten minutes from my house. If anyone in Houston wants to take the class *for real* after the new year, let me know. I am definitely interested.

First of all, thanks for the good information. What do you use to power the relay? Where did you find this power block and how is it mounted?

Maybe it isn't everyone's intent, but I really feel comforted that I am not alone in slip-sliding my tires. Thanks for your "been there/done that" posts.

Go to Yamaha/Star and look for accessories to RSVs -- "Windshield". Or Google STR-4XY35-40-00. They call them Passing Lamps (not lights, but not driving lights or fog lamps). Passing Lamps The classic look. Lamp kit includes traditional-styled lamps with a remote, dash-mounted switch and all necessary wiring. Mounting hardware sold separately. (Dealer installation is recommended).

Thanks good to hear. If I can get the floorboard to lay flat, the wife need never know about this. ;-)

I rode to work today and when it started sprinkling, I decided to ride home with my wife who works an hour later but only 10 minutes away. Unfortunately, a job-related emergency came up and I had to take the bike. I came upon a road under construction and stopped at a signal just upstream of the construction. I was halfway across the intersection when I saw the entire road in my direction of travel was covered in wet steel plates for a distance of maybe 50'. I slowed and crept across the plates. The third was buckled (sagging) and also was at a bend in the road. Maybe I was going too slow, but the bike went down on that buckled steel plate. It was like slow motion. The wheels just slid out to the left. I think I stopped it from crashing down with my right leg, but I can't hold the weight of the RSTD once it gets past the tipping point. I hit the kill switch and hopped off. It laid on its side for 15 seconds as I looked at the effing construction guys who just stared while I asked for help. I was blocking the road (one lane) and the light was going to turn green. That's a shooting offense in Houston, so just tried to pick it up. I did! I didn't do anything special, just lifted the right handlebar and the sissy bar. In 10 seconds of effort, it was on two wheels. I hopped on and puttered off with only one horn honked (as I started moving!). I stopped a few blocks away in a quiet neighborhood and looked it over while my adrenaline burned off. As far as I can tell, the only damage is the right highway bar is pushed back enough to keep the floorboard from sitting flat, plus the reflector on the saddle bag guard is scuffed almost imperceptibly. It looks as if the bike rolled onto the two highway bars and just laid there sup[ported by them. Driving home, the roads were already dry so I could get it up to 75 or so. There isn't much change in how she drives, if any. What I feel is likely paranoia because she is still nimble and responsive. So my question: is there anything particular I should do or look for following a near non-event? Beside change the right highway bar--I can't take having the floorboard at an angle.

I can second the notion of Kerrville. That's where we stayed a few weeks ago. It is convenient to the Sisters, has hotels, and has decent food too. Those seeking less aggressive riding can ride to Fredericksburg or even SanTone. We started pretty early for the Sisters and still got back at dusk; adding the distance to Fredericksburg would pretty much assure night riding.

My Yamaha OEM passing lamps are installed on the sturdy bar for the purpose, to prevent miss-aiming. However, the dealer didn't have the lens rotated correctly (there is a "TOP" embossing, which was rotated on the side). Thanks to V7Goose who noticed this when he helped me change tires. AFA my aux lights being on 24/7, I run them this way because anything that helps me get noticed is a good thing in my book. When we ride in a group, the bikes with the passing lamps on are clearly more visible behind me and that is proof enough for me.

I think that's a great area! I'm putting it on my calendar!

Thanks Keith. That's what I thought. I'll call them Tuesday to inquire about the status of the screw, special shaped. I was told by the service manager that this should be inspected/tightened at every service. Since they did my service, I had a reason to hold them to replacing it. I would suggest checking it every now and then, especially if you haven't done so yet (factory loose?). I don't know if it is a candidate for lock tite, but I think it could be a good idea.