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jlh3rd

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Everything posted by jlh3rd

  1. jlh3rd
    lighten here is a pic of the mounting straps on the faceplate and where i attached them inside the fairing. the first pic shows the faceplate and strap......second pic is the bolt through the white box that the end of the strap is attached to...you can also see the relay i used and the black fairing frame tubing with the mounting hole for the strap that holds the amp . the loose wire isone of the grounding straps for the new wiring that is attached to this frame....if i used a longer bolt, i could have attached the relay to this also.....but i just tie wrapped it later can anyone here tell me how to post a rightup on my install and post pics as i go along......i can post all the pics at once, but that's not what i want to do.......
  2. jlh3rd
    yep.....except i used electrical, not mechanical........recommend mechanical..........autometer was the only one i came across that offered electrical
  3. jlh3rd
    yep.....except i used electrical, not mechanical........recommend mechanical..........autometer was the only one i came across that offered electrical
  4. jlh3rd
    the autometer is what i used. i bought electrical, recommend mechanical.....the faceplate is plastic....easier to cut down and shape........hope the chrome metal faceplate works out.....white face gauges with a chrome faceplate would be awsome
  5. jlh3rd
    the autometer is what i used. i bought electrical, recommend mechanical.....the faceplate is plastic....easier to cut down and shape........hope the chrome metal faceplate works out.....white face gauges with a chrome faceplate would be awsome
  6. jlh3rd
    i have read this in more than one car/bike/boat etc. magazine so i believe it's true....byproducts of combustion in combination with moisture that all collect in oil and due to limited use can create an acidic environment that will attack bearing surfaces.........the only way to really tell if your oil has reached that point would be to have it analyzed ......so i would at least change it once a year
  7. jlh3rd
    i'm not home right now or i'd post a pic........will be home thurs. .....will get you a pic....in the meantime...............my gauge faceplate came with two right angle brackets that were to be attached at the upper left and right corners........two black ,small bolts ,with nuts, secured these brackets to the faceplate.........i didn't use the brackets....but i did use these bolts and nuts.....the nuts fit into a slot on the inside corners of the faceplate......so.........i took what i call metal strapping ( comes in a roll )..shaped the end of the metal strap to fit in this slot....and then used the two mini bolts and secured these ends of the straps to the faceplate........if you look, you might be able to see these two bolts in the picture.............the other end of the straps were secured to the white mounting box that the cassette was also mounted to, using some machine bolts ,washers and star washers..........i made extra holes to fit these bolts....... the half circles i machined into the lower half of the opening ( see a previous post ).actually support the bottom of the gauges, and keep the lower part of the face plate secured.....i don't know if this will be enough in the long term due to vibration....but so far seems to ...... see pic. in post #18
  8. jlh3rd
    i'm not home right now or i'd post a pic........will be home thurs. .....will get you a pic....in the meantime...............my gauge faceplate came with two right angle brackets that were to be attached at the upper left and right corners........two black ,small bolts ,with nuts, secured these brackets to the faceplate.........i didn't use the brackets....but i did use these bolts and nuts.....the nuts fit into a slot on the inside corners of the faceplate......so.........i took what i call metal strapping ( comes in a roll )..shaped the end of the metal strap to fit in this slot....and then used the two mini bolts and secured these ends of the straps to the faceplate........if you look, you might be able to see these two bolts in the picture.............the other end of the straps were secured to the white mounting box that the cassette was also mounted to, using some machine bolts ,washers and star washers..........i made extra holes to fit these bolts....... the half circles i machined into the lower half of the opening ( see a previous post ).actually support the bottom of the gauges, and keep the lower part of the face plate secured.....i don't know if this will be enough in the long term due to vibration....but so far seems to ...... see pic. in post #18
  9. jlh3rd
    you wouldn't think so......................how does 140 octane fuel figure into carb ice or no carb ice....and my a/c used 100 low lead
  10. jlh3rd
    it's not necessarily the outside air temp that causes carb ice...it's what happens to the air temp with the associated moisture as it travels through the venturi of the carb......this venturi effect can rapidly lower the the air temp, and since warmer air holds more moisture....this can freeze..............carb ice is more common in aircraft with relatively warmer air temps than cold........an air temp of , lets say, 20 degrees F has less moisture than 50, 60 degrees..........so the 60 degree air has a better chance of causing carb ice...............this is from my private pilot days......
  11. jlh3rd
    i have one....it WILL get the attention of anyone trying to get into your lane....every time i've had to use it, that car went immediately back into their lane
  12. jlh3rd
    there is very little bending at all.......the nylon line is no problem...........i routed everything up through the neck, so the only angles that the lines are subjected to are the steering angles......you have to make a 180 degree turn to the gauges...but that stays stationary.........i was already commited.........and , my pressure hose is almost invisible, was even able to run it through the neck fairing........so im happy years ago i had an oil pressure gauge start leaking from the instrument panel in the airplane i was flying......made one heck of a mess...........i just never forgot it.......so, that was my reasoning........
  13. jlh3rd
    there is very little bending at all.......the nylon line is no problem...........i routed everything up through the neck, so the only angles that the lines are subjected to are the steering angles......you have to make a 180 degree turn to the gauges...but that stays stationary.........i was already commited.........and , my pressure hose is almost invisible, was even able to run it through the neck fairing........so im happy years ago i had an oil pressure gauge start leaking from the instrument panel in the airplane i was flying......made one heck of a mess...........i just never forgot it.......so, that was my reasoning........
  14. jlh3rd
    first half of may...........plan to ride blue ridge parkway, natchez trace...maybe throw in new orleans........
  15. jlh3rd
    kitesquid i'd have to take the fairing off...then undo the clarion amp, to get to the mounting straps......the bike is back in the shed, and we just had a good storm up here...might be able to get it out this weekend.................in the meantime............. here is a pic of the space before i had to cut it......see the two holes , one on each side of the dark plastic , about half way down from the top of the space...........those two holes each had a screw that went into the front of the cassette player......imagine three half circles , spaced evenly apart with the bottom of these half circles just under these screw holes....with about a half inch space along the top edge of this plastic between the middle and end cutouts.........if i wanted to, i can put the cassette back in, and you wouldn't know i made these half circles....you just couldn't put the screws back into the cassette.....you don't really need them as you can also see that the cassette uses two bolts on each side as seen on the white mounting box inside the fairing.....i didn't have to cut anything else in this space......
  16. jlh3rd
    kitesquid i'd have to take the fairing off...then undo the clarion amp, to get to the mounting straps......the bike is back in the shed, and we just had a good storm up here...might be able to get it out this weekend.................in the meantime............. here is a pic of the space before i had to cut it......see the two holes , one on each side of the dark plastic , about half way down from the top of the space...........those two holes each had a screw that went into the front of the cassette player......imagine three half circles , spaced evenly apart with the bottom of these half circles just under these screw holes....with about a half inch space along the top edge of this plastic between the middle and end cutouts.........if i wanted to, i can put the cassette back in, and you wouldn't know i made these half circles....you just couldn't put the screws back into the cassette.....you don't really need them as you can also see that the cassette uses two bolts on each side as seen on the white mounting box inside the fairing.....i didn't have to cut anything else in this space......
  17. jlh3rd
    the sender is grounded through the adapter which is grounded to the cyl. head.....so they say not to wrap the threads.........however, i wrapped around the gasket and the last couple of threads on the adapter that screwed into the cyl. head port....i don't wrap brass threads as i've never had trouble with them sealing.........i've never had any trouble with the gauges not working.....i don't know torque specs...
  18. jlh3rd
    already have the running lamps, and heated clothes. also run/turn/stoplight module....so i needed the extra amps..........
  19. jlh3rd
    yeh...if your gonna mount that on handlebars, i'd definetly use an electrical water temp gauge
  20. jlh3rd
    yeh...if your gonna mount that on handlebars, i'd definetly use an electrical water temp gauge
  21. jlh3rd
    midrsv there is a writeup in the tech. section here by "goose" who installed mechanical gauges on his bike.....if you look at that , you will see that a mechanical oil pressure gauge requires you to run a small line from the pressure point to the gauge. this line has oil in it....the mechanical water temp gauge requires a metal, flexible sensing tube to be run from the temp sensor to the gauge....all of this would have to be routed to the fairing i thought i'd be smart and use electrical gauges that would just require an 18 gauge wire to be run from the sensors to the gauges, and avoid ,what i thought , would be rigging problems. well, guess what....the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge is huge...it would not fit down in the space where you have to tap in to an oil pressure point....and there is no other place to tap into oil pressure ( it's down by your right foot, close to the exhaust pipe)..I even purchased another sender that was smaller, got it to fit, and the gauge didn't work because the sender and gauge have to have the same ohm rating ( money wasted)...soooo...i had to get adapters at advance auto, and a hydraulic hose ( 5/16") and run that up to my fairing. rig a grounding wire to the sender, and tie wrap that in the fairing......the whole idea was to avoid having an oil source that could leak in the fairing. and now, instead of having a little 1/8" nylon tube, i've got a huge 5/16" rubber hose that i had to route up there..... the electric water temp. was actually better than running the flexible, mechanical tube, but not that much better the electrical gauges cost about $80....the mechanical are around $40 you can get white/black face gauges in mechanical...electrical only came in black face....from my searching
  22. jlh3rd
    midrsv there is a writeup in the tech. section here by "goose" who installed mechanical gauges on his bike.....if you look at that , you will see that a mechanical oil pressure gauge requires you to run a small line from the pressure point to the gauge. this line has oil in it....the mechanical water temp gauge requires a metal, flexible sensing tube to be run from the temp sensor to the gauge....all of this would have to be routed to the fairing i thought i'd be smart and use electrical gauges that would just require an 18 gauge wire to be run from the sensors to the gauges, and avoid ,what i thought , would be rigging problems. well, guess what....the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge is huge...it would not fit down in the space where you have to tap in to an oil pressure point....and there is no other place to tap into oil pressure ( it's down by your right foot, close to the exhaust pipe)..I even purchased another sender that was smaller, got it to fit, and the gauge didn't work because the sender and gauge have to have the same ohm rating ( money wasted)...soooo...i had to get adapters at advance auto, and a hydraulic hose ( 5/16") and run that up to my fairing. rig a grounding wire to the sender, and tie wrap that in the fairing......the whole idea was to avoid having an oil source that could leak in the fairing. and now, instead of having a little 1/8" nylon tube, i've got a huge 5/16" rubber hose that i had to route up there..... the electric water temp. was actually better than running the flexible, mechanical tube, but not that much better the electrical gauges cost about $80....the mechanical are around $40 you can get white/black face gauges in mechanical...electrical only came in black face....from my searching
  23. jlh3rd
    i just did my buckeye also........what voltage are you showing.....i was lucky, didn't have to take my battery out
  24. jlh3rd
    the only solution i thought of would be to place the gauges in a triangle arrangement...that would solve the width problem.....but then you gotta make your own faceplate....and you might start running into a height problem....
  25. jlh3rd
    the only solution i thought of would be to place the gauges in a triangle arrangement...that would solve the width problem.....but then you gotta make your own faceplate....and you might start running into a height problem....
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