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Showing results for tags 'plugs'.
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I have a 97 royal star classic with 35000 miles on it. I have had it for 2 weeks and have put over 1000 miles on it. I upgraded from a v-star 650. I love the ride and have learned so much from the site. It appears to be missing or vibrating on a moderate throttle (I have been at 50mph in 3rd, 70 in 4th and still notice it). It is noticible when giving throttle from an idle while in neutral also) I have put two sets of plugs in, synced the carbs (to the best of my abilities), checked the resistance on the plug caps(all about 10k and have just ordered new ones based on info from this site as I am getting some ignition noise when listening to the radio on the head set). When I increase the throttle through mid range, it appears to be missing. I have ran a can of seafoam through it. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws. I removed the air cleaner cover and moved the slides back and let them go. The slides for cyl 1&2 return slowly, the slides for 3&4 come back much quicker. I have not pulled the the diaphagms to check for holes. At cruising speeds (high rpms) it seems to run fine. At an Idle. all cycinders are fireing and all plugs appear to be burning clean. Would the shimming of the slides help this? I was reading several posts that were discouraging. Comment about not doing anything to this model year and instead selling it to get a 2002 or newer. Is this the case for this bike? I am not looking for a dragster, just a comfortable dependable ride. I know I am rambeling. any helpful hints would be appreciated.
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Started the bike up today for the first time in about two weeks, would not run without choke on. Check the air filters, changed the plugs still no help. Runs like on two cylinders. Anyone had this problem???? Any help is appreciated. Brent
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Does anyone know where I can get the connector that goes from the Bike to the passengers helmet on an 88 Venture? I have the piece that connects on the bike and plugs into the bike but I do not have anything to connect to the helmet. It has 11 pins. Any ideas????
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Alright, I need some help. I'm guessing I have a fouled plug or two, but I want to see if that's the general consensus. Whenever I'm forced to ride for a while in first and second gear, say while checking out a campground as I did with my father earlier in the week, or caught in stop and go traffic for a while, my bike decides it doesn't want to run right anymore. When given gas, the thing coughs and sputters and pops, and just generally acts like it doesn't have any get-up-and-go. It still runs, I haven't had it die, but until you get into third or fourth gear, it just acts like it's a struggle to get up speed unless I really hammer it. I checked my air filters, and they both look like new, and I've been fighting the issue off and on all summer, so I throw out the thought of bad gas. I've also run a full can of Sea Foam through it to see if maybe I had some buildup somewhere, but it seemed to have little effect. I'm guessing this all works into my mpg, which at 34 on a good day seems low to me, not to mention my 28-30 normally. Am I right in thinking this sounds like a spark plug issue? I've had a couple other guys (my dad included) throw that out there, though they're about as mechanically inclined as I am. So, if the plugs are a good place to start, does anyone have (or have a link to a good walkthrough) of how to check the plugs? I'm guessing the rear two are no big deal, but unless I'm missing some serious tool it appears I have to take off my tank to get to the front ones. So far the owner's and service manuals haven't proven much help. Thanks in advance for any help & advice.
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Jeff and I found the ignition circuit bad jump it started, Put in line fuse in till can get fuse block. Put every thing back together now it won't start. 11.98V through circuit when push starter button Spark on all Plugs looks good on blue side fuel pump working I think it is flooding smell gas I put new plugs in any ideas, Thanks Dale Oh 1gen 83
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Hi Everyone, First I'd like to say thanks for such a great site. I've really learned a lot from many of the posts. I'm particularly impressed with the helpfulness of eveyone. Anyone care to help some more? I picked up an 83 Venture XVZ1200 from a friend and it wasn't running. The current status is I'm only getting spark from 2 cylinders (1 & 3). Thanks to this site I've tried quite a few things so I thought if anyone could point me another direction I'd be very grateful. Here's the list of what I've tried: I changed out the plugs Primary coil is within limits Spark coils are within limits I refitted the plug wires (cut about 1/4 inch at the coil and plugs and re-fitted) Pressure sensor tested within limits Cleaned all electrical connections with spray Pulled the TCI and opened the cover, it smelled like fuel, I dried it for about 20 minutes on LOW with a hair dryerNot sure what else to do although I still suspect the TCI. Any help would be appreciated. Can't wait to go for a first ride! Thanks in advance.
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Plugs may take different socket
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hi everyone, I just did the 8,000 mile service in the 06 TD, which included spark plugs. Not a hard job at all. Spark plugs (NGK) that came out were 11/16 socket while the ones going in were 5/16 (Champion). I did not anticipate this, but quickly realized that the cross reference was right although the different socket sizes threw me for a moment. Not big news to the better wrenches on the site, but helpful to me and perhaps someone else. Bike runs great, and the plugs I took out could have remained for several more k's. Jim -
For a while now have had a skip at very light throttle, such as running at 40 mph on flat ground in 5th gear. And, as soon as I gave it any throttle, the skip went away. I have been thru the carbs, cleaned the pilot jets, synced them and replaced the plugs. This past week, I replaced the carb rubber manifold boots the carbs set on. Mine did have some obvious external cracks and the ones I used came off an 86 engine that I have and they look very good. Did not help a bit, ran exactly the same way. Yesterday morning I decided to remove all the YICS hoses and plug them. The two outer ones are easy to get off, but the two inner ones are hard to get to. I pulled one lose with a long pair of needle nose pliers, but on the other one, when I pulled it with the pliers, it tore into. This would have been easy with the carbs off, but I have already had the carbs off several times and I am tired of doing that. After I got the plugs on tight, I decided to replace the spark plugs again as I wanted to start fresh and to be able to try to get a reading on what the plugs looked like anyway. My son suggested I try the bike before I did anything else, but I did not want to get the engine hot. Well, when I pulled the back left cap off the plug, it came off the wire. Now these wires and caps were replaced a couple of years ago, so I did not expect them to be a problem. When I looked into the cap where the wire goes, there was green corrosion on the screw that screws into the wire. I cleaned it good and cut about a half inch off the wire and screwed it back together as far as it would go. It looked like the cap had not been screwed in good. I checked the other three caps and they looked good. I double checked the sync on the carbs and they were off some, so I adjusted them. I took the bike for a ride and it is running very good with no off idle skip. I am not sure whether the plugging of the YICS system was the problem or the cap problem, but at least it is running good again. RandyA -
Have 1985 1200 Venture Royale..Left in rain for first time and went to drive the next day and having miss and backfires. Took spark plugs and grounded and noticed 1 and 2 plugs have no spark.. When I try and start these 2 plugs spark one time and do not continue.. And information on where to search for problems. Thank You J McDermott in NJ
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Auto parts store. I said give me 4 NGK plugs for an 84 Venture. He said the book calls for an NGK 7EA. I said no the number has an 8 in it. He said here it is NGK 7EA for a 84 Yamaha venture 1200 engine. I said check the VMAX it takes the same plug? OK VMAX shows same thing NGK 7EA. My old plugs are NGK DPR8EA's. I'm going to take them back but just curious anybody running these 7EA plugs? They look identical in size
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PROGRESSIVE INSTALL 1983VR BY JACK (justjack) CHALAIS http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive06.jpg The front suspension of my 83VR was continually bottoming out due to some very old fork springs. It was time to replace them. Following everyone's advice I decided to install Progressive springs. Here's a blow by blow description of how the job went. Before starting put the bike on it's center stand and place something under the frame front to keep the front tire elevated off the ground. You also need to bleed off any air pressure in the fork tubes using you class computer or Schrader valve. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive05.jpg This is what we needed to remove before getting to the top of the fork tubes http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive07.jpg Step 1. Remove the center cover by prying the screw cover off. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive08.jpg The cover is held on by end tabs that can be gently pushed in and upward. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive09.jpg Unscrew the hold down screw and expose the top of the of the steering column. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive10.jpg The next step is to remove the grills on either side of the steering opening. Do the left side first as it is easier and will give you an idea of how the tabs snap in. The right side with the emergency switch is more stubborn, but with persistence it can be messaged out. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive11.jpg You do not need to disconnect the switch, just lay the entire assembly to the side. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive12.jpg Next remove the handle bar nut and center spanner. Hint: a 1 1/8th inch socket will fit the nuts. We borrowed this one from a neighbor. The half inch breaker bar is ours. Beats the heck out of a crescent wrench. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive13.jpg The compression screws also need to be loosened. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive14.jpg Before removing your bars off the spline, mark both the top of the spline and the bar as a reference when reassembling. We used a spring loaded center punch, but a nail will do. If you always wanted to readjust your bars but it was too much trouble...here's your chance when putting it back together. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive18.jpgStick the bars back onto the splines to get them out of the way and still be able to turn the front fork.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive15.jpg This is a picture of our secret weapon. To remove the fork caps you will need a 17mm hex key. The only place I could locate one was Sears. I cut off a piece of the long end and soldered it into an old 17mm 6-point socket, 3/8 drive. Makes life a lot easier, and helps not to strip threads when putting the caps back on. Another suggestion is to locate a 17mm by 6" bolt and a couple of nuts to jamb together on the end and use the head to remove the cap. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive17.jpg Here's 'the weapon' in action. http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive19.jpgThis is what we found after unscrewing the right side fork cap. Notice the aluminum slag on the tube housing. Not a good sign. The left side was even worse. Inspect the fork caps for damaged threads, and if you find them call your local Yamaha shop to see if they have any in stock. A new plug runs about $27 bucks.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive21.jpgNext remove the drain screw and drain the fork oil. We used plastic ice cream tubs and they worked great. It's also an excuse to go get more 'cookies and cream'....http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/progressive22.jpgThe next hi-tech tool you'll need is this very expensive spacer and spring extractor fashioned from an old coat hanger. Works great to remove those items it was designed to remove.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/IMGP2285.jpgWe went ahead and cut one of the spacers supplied by Progressive in half. Using one half for each fork tube. It might have made the fork a little less stiff, but we felt that we still had the CLASS to adjust the final ride.http://www.venturerider.org/progressive/The%20front%20suspension%20of%20my%2083VR%20was%20continually%20bottoming%20out%20due%20to%20some%20very%20old%20fork%20springs_files/IMGP2280.jpgHere's a pic of the parts you will no longer need. The OEM spacers and the OEM springs. Later: When we tried to reinstall the fork tube plugs we ran into a bit of a problem. The plugs had been removed previously and two of three of the starting threads were in pretty bad shape. This caused a lot of problems getting them back in. To lessen the amount of pressure needed to compress the progressives we cut the PVC spacer in half. We also placed the factory spacer end fittings (washers) into the end of the PVC spacer. It just made sense to eliminate any future wearing of the spacer caused by spring action. (forgot to take a pic and I'm not pulling them out just to take a pic.) Side by side the progressives are much longer than the OEM's, and the coil is a heavier gauge. Once we got the plugs to finally re-thread, reassembling was pretty quick. We found that the best way to get the plugs to start threading was use our secret weapon, along with an 18" 3/8ths extension mounted on a ratchet and use short quick burst strokes to get the plug started. All other attempts didn't work. Hope this helps a bit, and makes the job a little easier.
