Jump to content

bobo

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    16

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

10 Good

Personal Information

  • Name
    JC

location

  • Location
    Scottsdale, United States

Converted

  • City
    Scottsdale

Converted

  • Home Country
    United States

Converted

  • Bike Year and Model
    2006 RSTD
  1. bobo
    Thats how I run it, and it looks like that's how most of the other guys that have posted pics run it too. I think as long as you aren't sounding the horn in a huge dust or rain storm you should be just fine.
  2. bobo
    I'm not going to ugly it up by running a hose around the front if it. It it dies I'll just get a new one, it's only $45. PS. Had a good use for the horn last night, I was turning left (with green arrow) onto an on-ramp and some idiot lady in an over-large SUV heading in the opposite direction was turning right onto the curve that leads to the same on-ramp. She has a yield sign but is on her cell phone and thinks she can just fit next to me somehow. Well I sounded the 'ol Stebel and the cell phone dropped while she jumped upright and jerked the wheel right into and up over the curb. Funniest thing Ive seen in awhile.
  3. bobo
    I just carefully bent the straight ones to 90 degrees...
  4. bobo
    Personally I got the Pilot Pegs with the regular offset (not the longhorns) stem and the 1" bracket. I think the Duallys are just a little too big.
  5. bobo
    They are both 1" bars.
  6. bobo
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91 The only horn you remove is the one by your right foot. I wired it with the relay to the ground first (which means the horn sounds continuously ) until I went back to the previously posted instructions and realised I had to wire both posts from the relay to the old horn wires. It's pretty darn easy once you RTFM ! The easiest way is probably to clip the plastic connection between the old horn wires and plug them directly into the relay then run a fused power wire up to the positve terminal on your battery and then the hot wire to the + terminal on the new horn. Run a ground wire from the - terminal on the horn to the mounting bolt and youre done. Remember to use the plastic extension bracket the comes with the horn in between the horn and the L bracket so that you can reach the mounting bolt on the engine. Look at Carbon's pics if you have any horn mounting questions.
  7. bobo
    A++ work on the bracket Larry! Received it this afternoon and after an hour or so (and an extra 1/2 hour rewiring my mistake since I wired it as a powered switch grounding out the other relay lead and instead it's a ground switch so you must wire leads from the relay to both legacy horn wires... Oops! ) The horn fits and works perfectly. There's a perfect amount of clearance below the horn to keep the power/ground wires off the exhaust pipe and above/to the side of the horn to keep it off anything else and it looks like the bracket/horn is stock IMO (actually looks better than stock but I mean that it looks natural to the bike). Thanks very much for the fab and for sending it out to me so fast. A++ seller, will do business with again!
  8. bobo
    Cool thanks for the info. It actually arrived this morning and I installed it at 7000 with curve 3. We'll see if it does anything noticable when I ride a bit tomorrow.
  9. bobo
    I ordered one and should be getting it this coming week. Any tips for installing and setting it up? What settings (redline and advance curve number) do you guys that have one use? I have stock pipes/jetting with K&N filters will I have any jetting issues after adding the Dyna ignition or not and if I add khrome werks or bub slip ons a little later on will I then have to re-jet or is it still ok stock (not that I'm adverse to that, I'd just like to know how much I'll end up spending )?
  10. bobo
    It's just that easy... And replace that grossly over-sized heel/toe with the billet toe-only shifter.
  11. bobo
    Here's a fairly dumb question, but I was just going to put the K&N's (ya-1399) in my '06 RSTD and looking at the directions it isn't real clear on whether to stick the included gaskets to the filter or to the airbox. I'm assuming the sticky tape side of the gasket affixes to the airbox and then the filter mashes down on top and is screwed in but I just thought I'd double check first before with you guys before I do it wrong and get a bad seal.
  12. bobo
    http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=47&manufacturer_ID=33&product_ID=1063&model_ID=0
  13. bobo
    I just got the Tailblazer. Pop the cover off, remove bulb, put in Tailblazer bulb, replace cover and youre done. It comes with a replacement bulb too. Seems a bit brighter than stock and the flashes are quite noticable. I understand a lot of RS owners add the Harley License bracket light kit to their bike. Linked here... http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p23.htm
  14. bobo
    I agree with this as well, the bike really likes the high revs. 60 is 4th gear territory not 5th. In case this isn't what's causing it though have you had your 600mi service yet? If not then have them check out the above mentioned carb issue, alternatively it could I suppose be due to a poorly balanced wheel but you'd most likely notice that more often than just from 62-68. Good luck with you RSTD, mine's been flawless since I bought it new (knock-on-wood) and I hope for many years of comfortable cruising ahead.
  15. bobo
    Thanks for the link, unfortunately it seems that only applies to the RSV not the RSTD which has a different headlight cowl (it's not a flat ring like the RSV's). I put the signal/passing light visors on last night and I think I'm just sending the headlight visor back instead of trying to find a flat cowl. It looks pretty good with just those on along side the stock cowl which is already slightly visor-like anyway. Thanks for the help anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...