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shikano53

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Everything posted by shikano53

  1. shikano53
    Here is a picture of where I installed my Battery Bug Volt/battery monitor/thingy. When I bought my bike in November I realized that the battery was probably toast. When I installed the bug the replace battery alarm went off and both warning indicators were lit and it showed 0% of battery life left. So yesterday I installed a new Deka ETX20L, hooked everything back up and the bug immediately showed 100% battery condition, the warning indicators went off, the alarm stopped beeping and it read 14.2 volts. I installed it just to the edge of the right hand speaker since I always use my headset and it is easy to read there without moving my eyes too much. Also here are a few pics of the graphics I put on my bike. So touching wood, my bike is road ready for 2011. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  2. shikano53
    That's it alright! Chris
  3. shikano53
    installed it on the right brake reservoir. I am wondering if others on here have installed the battery bug and how did you run the cable? Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  4. shikano53
    Thanks Mike, That's great. Everything is cleaned and reconnected. I am just waiting for my son-in-law to come over tonight and help me reinstall the driving light bar. I had a slight mishap. Chris
  5. shikano53
    Thanks all! The 5mm allan wrench worked fine. I'm going to try and replace those hex bolts with a regular bolt if I can find one. Chris
  6. shikano53
    Thanks very much Rick and everyone else for your help and comments as well. I will do this tomorrow (Thursday). Kind regards and thank you again. Chris
  7. shikano53
    Thanks folks. Just a dumb question; how and where do you apply the dielectric grease inside the connectors? Do you just simply slather it around inside the connectors? Some of those connectors have a lot of pins inside them. Chris
  8. shikano53
    This is a dumb question; How do you apply the dielectric grease? Do you slather it all around the inside of the five connectors or do you attempt to apply it very judiciously to the tip of each prong? I noticed that some of those connectors have quite a few pins inside them. Chris
  9. shikano53
    Guys, Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your kind help on my quest to figure out, A) how to split my faring, B) How to take off the hex bolts holding my Yamaha driving light bar inplace c) Which connector is the audio control connector. I'm also color blind if things aren't confusing enough. So has this ever happened to any of you? Today I decided to split my faring and clean fix, whatever you want to call it; the main audio control unit connector because I am having the same issues that others have been having. Sooooooooooooooooooo I got the faring split. That was OK. But then I could not figure how to get the light bar mount off. I realized I had to get what I thought was a 5.5mm ball hex allan wrench. So I made a list. On my list I put two things you good folks told me I needed. A ball hex wrench some dielectric grease. I spent two hours driving around the city looking in numerous auto parts stores for a simple 5.5mm hex allan wrench. I finally found one in a set at the fourth parts store I stopped in. What the heck, for 12 bucks I bought the set. I was ecstatic and couldn't wait to get home to loosen and remove those wretched hex bolts. Guess what I forgot to buy even though I had the list gripped so tight in my sweaty palms that the paper got wet and began to fall apart? You got it - dielectric grease. I can't believe it. I do have some 12/24 contact cleaner however and I am going to spray the heck out of every connector. Here is my quandary. Should I wait until tomorrow and go buy some dielectric grease or simply spray everything with the 12/24 cleaner and put it back together. AAAARRRRrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh? Please, please tell me some of you have had this same experience. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  10. shikano53
    Guys, many thanks. I gotta start a new thread. You aren't gonna believe this... Chris
  11. shikano53
    Well I finally got my faring split. Turns out the hex bolts are 5mm on my 04 RSMV. Anyway with that being said can anyone tell me which connector is the Audio control unit connector? Thank you all for your help, it has been greatly appreciated. Chris
  12. shikano53
    Thank you! I'm gonna try the 5.5 but I don't think it fits. The dealer installed them just in December of 2010 an the left one is rounded so I think they stripped it putting it in. Chris
  13. shikano53
    Hi guys, Thanks for all the comments. What size allen wrench? I just got back from criss crossing the city in an attempt to find a 5.5mm hex ball end allan key but dang if it doesn't fit either. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. All I want to do is clean off the radio control connector because my audio unit is doing exactly what Wally's is doing in his post. Talk about frustrating. Is it 5 o'clock yet???? I need some tequila..
  14. shikano53
    Thanks guys! It must be a 5.5mm ball end hex because I have a 5mm and a 6mm and neither of them quite fit. If I recall correctly Freebird has a piece that you can purchase to replace that. I think. I will have to run to CTC and get a 5.5mm ball end hex socket. Chris
  15. shikano53
    First of all I apologize to Wally, and Tony for this triple post. Please delete it if it is a duplicate. I am in the process of parting my faring. I have it all dismantled except I can't figure out how to remove or if I have to remove the Passing Lamp mounting bracket that fastens using the two hex bolts. I don't even know what size they are and I don't know how to reach them because of the angle they are at. Is it necessary to remove these in order to drop the passing lamps down enough to remove the front faring piece? I'm stuck at this point and not sure how to proceed. If you have any comments or suggestions I would appreciate it. Thank you Chris in Red Deer, Alberta.
  16. shikano53
    Thanks Wally, I am in a bind. I am in the process of parting my faring. I have it all dismantled except I can't figure out how to remove or if I have to remove the Passing Lamp mounting bracket that fastens using the two hex bolts. I don't even know what size they are and I don't know how to reach them because of the angle they are at. Is it necessary to remove these in order to drop the passing lamps down enough to remove the front faring piece? I'm stuck at this point and not sure how to proceed. If you have any comments or suggestions I would appreciate it. Thank you Chris in Red Deer, Alberta.
  17. shikano53
    Wally, I have an 04 RSV and mine is doing exactly the same thing. I am going to part the faring today and see if I can fix it. I will let you know how I make out. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  18. shikano53
    You are correct. It is an 04. The middle gear cover needs to be removed to access the linkage bushing. The dealer said it would be an hour. Chris
  19. shikano53
    In the process of installing my high output stator my son-in-law pointed out that the shift linkage seal was seeping. Has anyone ever replaced one of these on the RSV and if so how hard is to replace? My understanding from looking at the service manual is that you have to remove the middle gear cover (again) in order to get to the shift linkage seal. Is this correct? I am not sure if I want the local dealer to do this work or not. He told me one hour. I have this gut feeling he wasn't referring to an RSV but rather to a bike that is more exposed. All comments and or suggestions appreciated. Thank you in advance. Chris
  20. shikano53
    I put a new set of Avon Venom 'X's on for this riding season. I've been using them now for about 10 years on various bikes. I really like them. I haven't had a bad set or a bad tire yet, (touch wood). Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  21. shikano53
    I think duct tape would work just fine. Chris
  22. shikano53
    Hi Larry, as others here are far more qualified than I, I will be the first to admit that I am by no means mechanically inclined. So it took about 10 fifteen minutes to do the install it is that easy. If you have a GPS establish how much your speedo is out or get your wife or someone to follow you and determine the actual as opposed to what your speedo says. Then go to the speedohealer website and input the numbers into the calculator. Write down the results generated. Remove the seat. remove the plastic cover on the lower left side just below the battery. It has two hex head bolts. The rear one is the one that holds in it place the front one is for show. It attaches in the front with two rubber plugs that fit into grommets. Just pull it gently out. The speed sensor is the white plug you can see that looks identical to the white plug harness that comes with your speedohealer. Carefully unsnap the plug. Plug in your speedohealer. It only fits one way. Run the cable up underneath and up to the back of the battery. There is a big patch of open plastic just behind the battery that is ideal for the speedo healer. Clean it off with some mild soapy water, then with some rubbing alcohol. You don't have to put your bike up on a stand and rotate your rear tire. At least I didn't. Just hold down both switches as per the instructions that come with the healer and turn on your ignition switch. Wait for the dash to start blinking then set the numbers that were generated with the calculator previously. Peel off the velcro sticky Attach your healer. I didn't run the remote control. I figured if I need to adjust it it's a simple matter to take the seat off. The seat bolts are a 10mm hex wrench. The side plastic covers are a 5mm hex wrench. You only need to remove the rear one the front one as mentioned is just for show Voila! Take it out with your GPS to check it or with a following driver and you are done. If you have any problems call me. My cell number is in my profile. Ride safe Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
  23. shikano53
    Sweet Bro! Well I'm going out to synch my carbs. Wish me luck! Chris in Red Deer
  24. shikano53
    lol... Hey Ruffy! You betchya! If you notice the cut and paste Buckeye themselves state that the stator should be hard-wired. Here is a copy paste from the Buckeye site about the 2nd gen RSV high output stator. We have the fix to your barely adequate OEM stator supplies. This stator is designed to give a higher output in the normal cruising range from 2000 to 3500 RPM's The OEM stator spec output is 30 amps. During testing we've seen increased output to a peak of 55 amps. No core exchange is needed these are NEW units. Each order comes with installation gaskets included. (Note: This unit requires hard wire (soldered) connection. Ride safe folks Chris in Red Deer, AB
  25. shikano53
    Thanks for the information. When my speedometer said 110kph my gps said 100 kph. That is what I corrected for. I think it was in the neighbourhood of 7.91% or something like that. I don't remember the exact correction numbers. Thanks folks. Have a great long weekend! Chris
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