Prairiehammer

Yes, The fairing (upper and lower) and side covers are the same. Obviously the trunk and saddlebags are not, but you knew that.

Annotated pics of the primary fuse block with glass fuses and another pic of my revamped primary fuse block along with the second OEM fuse holder as well as the auxiliary fuse block I added.

Agree that new fork springs will probably be in order and also agree that Progressive® springs for the MKI and MKII are the same SKU, however, has anyone noticed that the 1983 Yamaha front springs are unique; different part number from 1984-1993. Another thing I have pondered: The MKII weighs variously 49-64 pounds heavier than a XVZ12TK. And yet the same springs from Progressive®? Perhaps that explains why the preload varies so much among users. Weight, Venture.pdf

Currently -10°F, with 18mph breeze, I don't know what the wind chill is...prolly about -25°. But hey it IS sunny , for now. Detailed Forecast Today Sunny and cold, with a high near 7. Wind chill values as low as -20. Northwest wind 5 to 10 mph. Tonight Increasing clouds, with a low around -3. Wind chill values as low as -10. West wind around 5 mph becoming calm. Friday A 50 percent chance of snow after 7am. Cloudy, with a high near 21. Wind chill values as low as -10. South wind 5 to 15 mph, with gusts as high as 25 mph. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible. Friday Night A 50 percent chance of snow, mainly before 1am. Cloudy, with a low around 18. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible. Saturday Snow likely, mainly after 7am. Cloudy, with a high near 31. Chance of precipitation is 60%. Saturday Night Snow likely, mainly before 7pm. Cloudy, with a low around 14. Chance of precipitation is 60%. Sunday A 50 percent chance of snow before 7am. Partly sunny, with a high near 18. Sunday Night Mostly cloudy, with a low around -4. Monday Sunny and cold, with a high near 10. Monday Night Partly cloudy, with a low around -1. Tuesday A slight chance of snow. Partly sunny, with a high near 24. Tuesday Night A slight chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 7. Wednesday Mostly sunny, with a high near 14.

The proper torque is indeed 5.8 ft/lbs, however that value is usually too low for the common foot/pound torque wrenches to properly register (if at all). Obtain an inch/pound torque wrench and torque the bolts to 69.6 inch/pounds.

That is true, IF the Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay coil is energized. The SCCR coil is energized through the IGNITION fuse (Brown input, Red/White output) and then through the kill switch. Do you have battery voltage after the IGNITION fuse on the Red/White wire?

Attached find an annotated pic of the stock First Gen Venture Royale (please don't call it a "RSV") showing the fuse block as from the factory. Also attached is a pic of my refurbished fuse block. Note at the top of the pic the black plastic box emblazoned with "FUSE". This stock fuse block has four ATC fuses in it (audio backup, audio CB, fan, hazard). Your schematic has combined the five glass fuse block and the four ATC fuse block into one nine fuse block. As you can see, that is not how it actually is. I will recommend that before you spend much more time on this bike's electrical gremlins, that you upgrade the fuse block. Once you have that upgraded, then subsequent problems will be narrowed down to discrete connections and/or switches.

Ken, what are the issues with your current carbs? "Hard starting"? Meaning the engine turns over, but it is reluctant to fire? Is this issue occurring with a cold engine or when the engine is warmed up? How does the bike perform after getting it started? What is your fuel mileage? Have you replaced the spark plugs? How many miles on the bike? Has the engine compression been checked? Have you checked the valve clearances? What is the idling rpm of the warm engine? As you may now realize, hard starting can be caused by many things, not just the carbs. The 1983 carbs are not inherently more troublesome when compared to other years. Finally, because all Constant Velocity carburetors (the Venture carbs are CV carbs) are intrinsically altitude compensating, rejetting to compensate for the high altitude is a finicky endeavor, where the science of such is mostly misunderstood and usually becomes a trial and error experience. Unless you were to miraculously find a set of brand new carbs, it is likely that you will still have issues with any used carbs that you find. Unless the carbs you have are actually "worn out" (an oft used but incorrect phrase, since unless there is excessive wear at the throttle plate shaft, the carbs are not "worn" out). All the Venture carbs share major and minor components with each other and with the First Generation V-Max. Thus, parts to refresh and make the carbs like new are available. The one fly in this ointment is the mechanic's skill and attention to detail. Here on this forum we regularly encounter users who have had their Venture carbs "rebuilt" and yet continue to have problems. Most problems after the ersatz rebuild are a result of incorrect and or incomplete "refurbishment" and or poor quality parts. Elaborate your particular issues here and we will help you to restore efficient and reliable operation to your carbs and to the Venture.

Hitting the Black Velvet are we, Doug?

I am not positive on the physics of the 'lift' hole or vacuum port, but it appears if this hole is upstream of the needle, that the slide will be sluggish in raising. All I DO know, is that every manufacturer says the hole should be oriented toward the engine side/butterfly. Including Yamaha.

Shinko and Kenda make both front and rear tires in sizes for our Venture.

First of all, Doug, mralex714 asked: What is the minimum thickness of the rear rotor for an 86 VR? The correct answer is 4.5mm. The minimum disc (or rotor) thickness (front and rear) for a 1983-1985 is 6.5mm (0.26 inch). This information is found on page 5-4 in the paper factory manual.

Yes, compressed air will push the piston out, sometimes violently. Read this thread about caliper rebuild.

Minimum rear rotor thickness is 4.5mm (5mm new)

Here is a pic of a disassembled master cylinder: Notice the "small cup" (the donut shaped one) must be threaded onto the spindle.

Are you talking about the dust seal boot here: If so, yes it is needed. For the obvious purpose to keep dirt from the master cylinder innards and for the less obvious purpose to keep the brake pushrod from flopping around and possibly getting mis-positioned. I gotta ask: why would you even consider not using all the parts, especially on something as critical as the brakes?

Yes, all looks correct. BTW: the 'B' in the rear tire designation means 'Belted'. Belted E3s is better than unbelted.

Nope. Just the engine.

Not always. Some aftermarket diaphragms are super glued to the slide, in accordance with the suppliers instructions. Others diaphragms are too tightly fitting to the slide to rotate the slide within the diaphragm without causing damage to the diaphragm.

The two screws you allude to, is the accessory power tap. If the ACC fuse is blown, there will be no power there. Finding no power at the accessory taps, does not mean there is no power to the fuse block. Check for power at one of the other fuses. I believe you are referring to the CLASS fuse holder. Whether that fuse is blown or not is irrelevant to your current issue. What IS relevant though, is your discovery of no battery voltage at that holder; because that CLASS fuse is fed from the main switch (ignition key switch). The fuel pump will not get power if the ignition switch is at any position other than ON. Double check the ignition switch connectors for secure connection. Cycle the ignition switch through its positions, while observing voltage at the input to the IGNition fuse. Place your VOM leads on the clip of the fuse holder. Check for voltage on the output side of the IGNition fuse. If the IGNition fuse continuity is bad, whether due to a blown fuse or poor electrical connections, the fuel pump will not run. Finally, or perhaps firstly, check the 'kill' switch.

Yes, the 1983 have the vacuum port in the slide. In fact, ALL Constant Velocity carburetors have the vacuum port. A CV carb cannot work without this port.

There IS a consensus that the block-off plates on the MKI (1983-1985) help provide a better brake feel and may improve the handling by firming the suspension. There is NO consensus that the block-off plates, when installed on the MKII (1986-1993, with EAND) are an improvement. In fact, some have discovered that installing block-off plates in place of the EAND has caused an extremely harsh ride. Since the EAND has no effect on braking feel or performance (as opposed to the MKI hydraulic anti-dive) the primary advantage to disabling the MKII EAND, whether by installing block-off plates or by simply unplugging the EAND solenoids, is the elimination of the significant electrical load when the EAND is activated.

It matters. The vacuum port (hole) should be at about 6 o'clock. If your new diaphragms do not have the indexing ear, then it is easy; insert the assembled slide and diaphragm and turn until the hole is at 6 o'clock. If the new diaphragm has the indexing ear, then you will have to be careful when installing the diaphragm onto the slide and make sure of the correct alignment.