bongobobny

Bring back public hangings, eh?? May not be that bad of an idea. Public beheadings by ISIS seems to work for them...

I'm just minorly concerned with the condition of your uppers David. In the picture I do see a couple of dings and pits in them. New seals may not completely fix your issue but without closer inspection it's hard to tell...

Yah! I would be more concerned if I saw 201, 199, 145, 203. as long as they are say within 5% or less of each other it's a good thing...

Ummmm your flow may have come from the pressure already built up in the lines. Yes, I know liquids can not be compressed, but rubber lines swell up with pressure. Did the flow stop after a second or two, or continue to flow like gravity feed virtually forever??

Yes, sort of! Depends on how good your local hardware store is! Not many true HARDWARE stores left any more! The issue is them being metric and stores mostly having SAE. I can remember once taking a bigger diameter grommet with the correct shoulder size and snipping a small part out of it to make it fit...

Hmmm, dead people do not commit the crime twice...

What did you do Dan, shoot his ass???

OK Carb sync, easy enough to do WITH the right sync gauges! Chances are it's not the driveshaft whining, it's your clutch basket! There are a few things you can do to eliminate it, most of us just live with it!! There is a fix that requires installing an external oil line written up "somewhere" on this site. Of course your driveshaft may need to be removed and grease the splines, especially where it goes into the u joint!! Something we all do when we change rear tires. Yup, the 1st gen's are top heavy with poor low speed manners. This can be fixed two ways. First, put a "130" size front tire instead of the "150" size (or is it 160?). Second, lower the forks about an inch by removing the front tire, loosen the pinch bolts, and push the forks up about an inch. Make sure you make both sides as equal as you can humanly do! Other minor factors also include equal air pressure in both forks and better fork springs, but those are minor, the REAL solution is the smaller tire and lowering the front! At yur low mileage, valve adjustment should not be an issue. It is a nice preventative maintenance issue though, but probably a little more appropriate at 50K intervals. The issue being with wear the clearance gets SMALLER until you are down to zero clearance then you start burning valve seats. At that point the bike also won't start as easy, etc. It,s not a bad job to do BUT you need a special tool and you have to be very precise in what you do. It can be done with the engine still installed, you just have to take a few things off the top and be prepared to replace the valve cover gaskets and possibly the rubber boots on the valve cover bolts. The big issue with this is the bolts are just a smidgen too long and do bottom out, and with those rubber bolt gaskets they are already crushed or took a set, and it is VERY easy to overtorque the bolts and snap them off!!! You've been warned... Seafoam is our friend!! At the beginning of the year put a whole can into a full tank of gas and drive it like ya' stole it! Once a month 1/2 can to a full tank of gas to keep things clean. Plugs. Ventures tend to like to eat spark plugs. Best to use NGK's they seem to work the best. Regular NGK's if you change your plugs yearly, or the Iridium ones if you want to get 2- 3 years out of a set. Yes, you can get a few years out of the regular ones, but for the low cost of plugs, it's a good idea for trouble free operation to replace them regularly. Oil!! Hoo boy, can of worms here as to what is best!! The main point, motorcycle or diesel oil is best. A lot of automotive oils have friction inhibitors in them, NOT a good thing for "wet" clutches!! Any friction inhibitor WILL make your clutch slip!! Speaking of clutches, they are just a tad weak and eventually prone to slipping. When it's time, replace the stock half size clutch plate with the optional Heavy Duty Yamaha full size one. Also replace stock clutch spring with the heavy duty PCW racing one! Hydraulic fluid. Completely flush and bleed all the brake and clutch system. Something that should be done every few years! Just because the fluid looks clean in the reservoir does NOT mean it's clean on the other side! Dirty contaminated fluid causes all sorts of brake and clutch issues! Use DOT 4 and I also recommend a synthetic, higher boiling point... OK I got kind of lengthy here, explore the tech sections of this site to learn all you need to know about these bikes and more! Also, a big WELCOME to the site!!!

Hehehe!! Let me help you decipher! . . . ! . . :stickpoke:

Good eye Carl!

Ummmm, depends on how hungry (and horney) you are...

Hmmm, I generally use Bell 10W but I suppose tranny fluid would work, depends on how stiff/soft you want your suspension. For MY tastes 10W with Progressive springs works out OK but others who like a stiffer front end will use 15W or even 20W. Waaaay too stiff for me...

Ok, Clive, NICE SETUP!! Jack, never teried that method but sounds like it works good! I've never been that lucky to get all 4 to pop off together. Maybe two, but once one pops out all the compressed air takes the path of least resistance! Usually though, when one pops the other three are almost ready to come out and I can get them out by hand, or by taking a pair of needlenose pliers INSIDE the round part of the piston and while holding them open, pull them out the rest of the way. I clean pistons with solvent then buff them out with my metal polishing wheel. Depends on what shape the cylinders are in as to whether I just hit 'em up with very fine emery paper or get out the hone...

Yup!! Stupid is as stupid does...

Scam Scamity Scam Scam, SCAM SCAM!! Or think Monty Python, but instead of Spam, substitute the word Scam...

The springs Pucster was talking about are made by Sonic but I think there is another company out there as well. The progressives will work out as well, but a lot depends on rider preference...

Learn a new trade???

Ummmmm, there's still time to add that in, I DO have an extra prize set aside for the show...

Here's a start... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-K-L-Carburetor-Carb-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-NEW-XVZ-1300-XVZ1300-Star-Venture-/310978128892?hash=item4867bdabfc:g:6B4AAOSwQJhUkbnm&vxp=mtr A lot of people have not had good luck with some of the aftermarket diaphragms out there. Do a search of, say, "diaphragms" in the 1st gen tech talk and be prepared to d a lot of reading!! Unfortunately you are going to find it costs a LOT of bucks to completely rebuild the carbs with new parts, but it is well worth it!! Once PROPERLY rebuilt they should give you many years of trouble free service! These bikes run like a raped ape when they are running right! Top speed is around 130 mph, they WILL pull a wheelie, and top speed in 3rd gear is 93 mph, as fast as the top speed of a Harley period...

Hey you guys, after the Asheville Rally, come on up to the WNY Rally for ANOTHER good time!!!

SATURDAY ITINERARY 9:00: Ed “Freakin’ Jonsey” Jones Memorial Ride to Sprague’s Maple Farms for breakfast. This ride is just over an hour to Portville, NY located at 1048 NY route 305. Afternoon activities: We will have some fun games to play, and at 3:00 we need all bikes grouped up in the parking lot for a bike show. Prizes for Best 1st Gen, Best 2nd Gen, Best Trike (Spiders included), and Best Other Brand. 6:00: Picnic dinner catered by Chanderson’s Steak and Seafood. Must have ticket to eat!! Tickets are $10.00 each and will be available beginning Thursday. 7:30 - ? : Live music by Judge Fronczak and the Attorneys! Feel free to dance the night away!

FRIDAY ITENARARY Ride to Eden, NY and Eden Kazoo Factory. Ride departs Campground at 10:30. This is about a 45 minute ride each way. Ride departs Eden at 3:30 PM. There are several places to eat, and Eden is a quaint small town with several things to see and do. A tour of the Eden Kazoo factory will begin at 1:00 but feel free to visit at any time. Dinner and Grand prize raffle at Chanderson’s Steak and Seasfood, 11851 Route 16, Yorkshire NY. Start time is 6:00 PM. After dinner there will be a Card Raffle for the Grand prize, worth well over $100, so that EVERYBODY has an equal chance! There will also be an Auction for a very limited quantity of special hand tie dyed souvenir tee shirts! Dress code is 60’s Hippy! 8:00 PM – 11:00 PM is a 60’s Hippy Party with music from the later 60’s. There will be prizes for best costumes, best dancing, etc.

THURSDAY ITENARARY At 4:00 the limited quantity official rally tee shirts go on sale! They are available at the table on the stage. Also tickets for Saturday’s catered picnic go on sale. Ride to dinner and a drive-in movie! Ride departs Campground at 5:30. Besides great food at the Charcoal Corral, there is miniature golf, and the Drive-In! Also there is a car show starting at 6:30. Plan on staying for at least one of the two DOUBLE FEATURE movies! First show starts at 8:45 PM. Bring a folding chair and an FM radio. Ride time less than 45 minutes each way. The Charcoal Corral is located just off NY Route 39 in Perry, NY at 7037 Chapman Ave.

Hmmmm, I see the fork brace issue! Odd...

Buy the video I just mentioned above, you will be glad you did! Sounds like something did not get reassembled right or there is still a jet somewhere clogged, etc. These carbs are actually quite complex with several "circuits" depending on operating condition, i.e idle, higher RPM's, choke, etc.