bongobobny

Pretty much just an ohmmeter to check for proper coil resistance. To my knowledge they work fine with the Ignitech. Now, here's the klinker, sometimes these coils become thermally sensitive and the coil resistance changes drastically when heated. Not a very common problem but none the less not unheard of. What happens is bike runs fine when cool. The coil heats up and the insulation breaks down and partially shorts the coil, making the output lower, and the TCI looses timing, the bike won't run! Let it cool, the short goes away, and the bike runs great again until it gets heated up again!! This problem also happens with stators, ask Xv1100SE...

yup! Another vote for EBC HH pads..

Yah!! It is doable with average mechanical skills but it is precise and time consuming! A bill of anywhere between $400 to $800 is kind of normal...

Yup, sounds like either warped rotors or "hard spots" on the rotor usually caused from bike setting outside in rain for a while. Rust happens all over rotor except where the calipers are leading to hard spot in metal after the rust on the rest of the rotor gets worn off with braking...

Don't waste the time and effort, it is at best a temporary fix! Nothing wrong with a good used one. The one you showed in the picture is obviously toast...

Remove TCI, remove cover, bake in oven at 225 to 250 degrees for at least an hour of so, try again. May be moisture inside of the box, a common issue. Relocate TCI to top of airbox, the stock location is susceptible to moisture! Yes, there is enough lead length with the existing wiring harness to relocate. You may have to cut one ear off TCI to get false tank cover back on... OK also keep in mind that just because you are getting spark does not mean the spark is coming at the right time!! There are instances where the TCI's pulses are not occurring when they are supposed to... Once again, try a known good box to try to isolate whether or not your box is good or not. If the issue is "elsewhere" then the bike will still act the same way with the known good TCI.

Yah Don, a 4 inch speaker is a 4 inch speaker period!! Can't move much volume of air with 4 inches!!! I put in 4 brand new "3 way" Kenwoods into mine and I do admit it sounds much better... parked!

OK Guys we are starting to go a little astray! Carefully reread post #1 . He stated the bike WAS getting around 40mpg which is normal. All he did was a "tune up" consisting of new air filter, carb sync, and new plugs and wires and immediately after his mpg went south! Obviously something he did/changed went wrong! Now gggGary does have a point about the one lean plug indicating perhaps something wrong with THAT carb before "fiddle futzing" BUT even so it was getting 40 mpg! My point is to find out why all of a sudden the drastic change in MPG. Could be a weak spark, could be something not properly reassembled with the airbox (Keep in mind this is a 1st gen, not a 2nd gen), or a vacuum line that split when removed to sync the carbs or when reinstalled. Could be carbs were not sync'ed right, etc! Remember these bikes run surprisingly well on just 3 cylinders...

Try to find an '83 TCI that is known good and try it, I'm almost betting dollars to donuts yours is toast. The tach is driven by the #2 cylinder output from the TCI and if your tach is bouncing around it means the output from the TCI is messed up... You can try a TCI from an '84 -'89, the bike will idle just fine, it just won't accelerate very well due to the vacuum advance being 180 degrees different.

The chrome aftermarket covers are even worse for hitting...

Uhhhh, good point Dano...

Yah! I noticed that too!! I was wondering if it was some sort of RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shield...

PM me your mailing address and it's yours! You're on your own making it work! Does not come with the pushrod, I needed it for the conversion I did to power the Honda rear calipers on my trike using a larger car master cylinder...

Steve and Carl, the reservoir for a 2nd gen is different than 1st gen, but yes the rubber "bellows" does take up some of the slack. On the 2nd gen you can see the level through a sight glass type affair, and Yes, ANY master can be overfilled causing expansion with heat and locking up brakes..

There are better than stock R/R's out there such as the Shindigen (sp) but there is no "plug and play" except for the Rick's R/R, they all use different connectors! i talked with our resident wiring adapter guru M61A1Mech and Steve can not find a source for the Yamaha R/R connector so you have to hack up the harness...

I'm a Dunlop Elite fan but to each their own, no two drivers ride exactly the same...

Yes, the hydraulic anti dives do rob HYDRAULIC power from the front brakes! One of the two reasons I switched to MK2 forks, the second being MK1 brakes are anemic at best...

OK while I was typing you just gave your Shinko response. I am not sure, but I really don't think the Shinko is really load rated for our really heavy 900 lb bikes! They may be load rated for a lighter "touring" bike like a Harley, but they are a couple hundred pounds lighter...

Yup! What Carl said, the anti dives only work with brakes applied!! All they are is a solenoid that restricts the flow of shock oil when the brakes are applied. This restriction limits or stiffens the front shock's downward travel when braking. On your MK1 the anti dive solenoid is hydraulic, on the MK2 they are electric solenoids that activate with the brake light. Both do the exact same thing. I suppose if the solenoid were filed with sludge especially on the hydraulic ones the solenoid could not properly disengage but that would result in a stiffer, more sluggish shock... Now to address your issues, yes the condition and tread pattern of your front tire will indeed affect how the bike handles different road conditions! Now as far as delinking brakes, keep in mind now your front master cylinder has TWICE the load it was originally designed for!! Even the "larger" MK2 front master was designed for only one front caliper!! What you want to do is upgrade to a second generation front master or even better the 14mm master found on newer Yamahas so you get the proper volume of brake fluid delivered to the front calipers. Now you have the same issue in reverse for the rear calipers, you are now using a master cylinder that delivers twice the volume to now just one caliper resulting in very little brake pedal travel before it engages, but due to the bigger bore you really have to step harder on the pedal to get braking power!! With your master cylinder it's all about piston diameter vs stroke for power! The smaller the diameter, the longer the stroke you need to get the same VOLUME, but the smaller the diameter, the greater the PSI which is what gives you greater braking POWER. You might want to try McGuiver'ing a 2nd gen rear master cylinder, I have a spare one laying around if you want to experiment, but I do not have a spare reservoir, you will have to use your existing one...

I use really looong needle nose pliers! I'm gonna try Heather's system the next time though...

Yah! You want to really wipe your journals on the crank SPOTLESS!! that's the most important area where even one little particle of metal can really mess up your bearings!!! Use a good solvent and lint free rag...

Are we turning into Grumpy Old men???

I was looking for the actual spec for the 1st gen's but could not find it, I believe that spec may be for the 2nd gen. It does not matter, the point is you should get a spark at least twice the distance of the stock gap. Try at 0.100 and if it doesn't work try 0.080. The point being all the sparks should be around the same, if you have one wire that is much weaker than the others there is an issue with either the wire, the coil itself, or with the plug cap assembly. Question on your new wires. Did you buy new assemblies, or did you buy separate wires and separate caps? Also, speaking of caps, on the coil side of the wire did you install the o rings on the plug wires under the screw on caps for the coil? These are important, they keep the plug wire from vibrating loose. Also, it is a good practice to snip 1/8" to 1/4" of the wire off each time you take the plug wire off. The reason for this is the metal prong spreads the center conductor apart, and when you reinstall without cutting the end off it may not make as good contact resulting in a weaker spark. Of course then the o ring has to be pushed further down the wire, the screw on cap will push the o ring back towards the end when you screw it on. Also, you should inspect the coil secondary connection as crud and corrosion can, and will get in there! There should be no green stuff in there!! On the spark plug boot, there is an assembly in there that unscrews and has a spring, a disc, and a resistor element. They get dirty and cause problems as well. Somewhere on this site is a thread about how to service these...

You can NEVER have too many lights...

Yup!!