bongobobny

Yes, the noise is more acutely aggravating...

Well, there IS a 10 amp "Fan" fuse you could check... Other than that you could unplug the fan connector and apply 12 volts and ground to the fan to see if it works. Other than that, as long as the fuse is good and the fan motor is good the only other thing that could be bad is the temperature switch. My fan almost never kicks on, I can only remember once in 90 degree weather where I was stuck in traffic for about an hour that it kicked on, and I was just a little low on coolant, the overflow bottle was almost empty...

Whoo Boy Adam, you just opened a can of worms there!! Yes, it COULD be driveshaft related, could be a LOT of other things as well!! Yes, it is fairly easy to remove the driveshaft! The hard part is getting it back into the u joint again. There is an inspection hole in the swingarm that once you push back the rubber boot you can see. This hole works dandy for sticking a screwdriver or something in there to hold the u joint end up to guide the driveshaft back into the splines. My first thoughts when you stated they greased the splines is did they do BOTH ends of the shaft, or just spread some grease on the differential end only?? Ya never know... The grinding noise can be a lot of things like a dry u joint, wheel bearings, brake calipers hanging up, warped rotors, clutch issue, and on and on... You will get several answers as to what grease to use, I use a synthetic wheel bearing grease myself. You want something that is fairly thick as there is a lot of pressure exerted on the splines.

OK must have missed it with a quick look! The 0.1 may be a 2nd gen spec, had a carb vent issue a few years shutting down 2 cylinders and part of my troubleshooting was testing for good spark thinking maybe I had a coil or TCI issue...

OK! I tried some variations of that but didn't try that. It did come up with caps that fit over hex bolts but not the hole caps...

Cash back?? Yah, my credit card does that!!

That's what a sheet of cardboard is for Dan, twist the thingie until the pattern looks like () so you get good overlap...

Yup!! Definitely NOT a Yammy TCI!! Or a Yammy cruise control module either!

Good write up!!! Yup, I used "Balls" when I redid mine, they are a quality product...

Actually, the factory spec is 110 ohms plus or minus 10% temperature compensated to 68 degrees F...

Yup!! Not very symmetrical at all!! Better than your chewed up one but still worn...

Yup! Permatex works great, but you won't get the gasket off in one piece! Grease works fine as a sealant and gaskets generally come off in one piece...

Whatever TCI you buy, make sure it is from an '83 only, all other years will not work right...

Yes! Tom was one of my first friends here on the site!! The very first was James Gorom, then Marcarl, then Squidley! As stated Sherry was on my friend's list, sent several PM's of encouragement after Tom's accident... Glad the lady rider was rescued, sounds like some electrical connector got drowned, then with time dried out!

He's looking for the 5 mm ones, but that is a pretty decent price for the quantity!! I may buy a set myself!

OK Dan painting is actually fairly easy, just keep your arm moving from one side to the other, keep the gun the same distance from the material, and remember several light coats is better than 1 thick coat! Allow the coats to tack up for several minutes before applying the next coat. When the paint coat looks glossy then you have applied enough. Think Pshhht, Phsssht, Pshhht... Yes, you can go in both directions when applying!

Well Drreb, you may as well ask which tire is best, or what brand oil to use...

I LOVE giving the clerk a large bill, wait for them to punch it into the cash register, and THEN say, wait, I have the exact change! Totally blows their mind, they have NO IDEA what to do...

If you are referring to what looks like somebody puked on the board, that is normal, it's called conformal coating, it is for waterproofing... PS the gun would be waaaaaay too much heat for that poor lil' board!

To get the board out you need to unsolder ALL of the board edge connectors and remove the 4 screws... I notice from the other thread you already have the cover off.

Nice pictures Snyper, but that is a MK1, and Kapebretoner has a MK2 ('89) which is different...

A thin coating of grease on the gaskets helps keep them in place...

Hmmmm, in the States you get handed the bills with the coins on top of them...

OK if you know which end of the soldering iron to hold, try resoldering all of those solder connections for the edge connectors (connectors to the wiring harness)...

I'm still looking, or am going to look tonite for a cheaper source and bigger quantity...