bongobobny

Also, there is an EXCELLENT DVD you can buy from a gentleman named Damon Ferraiulo on rebuilding our carburettors! Although the video is on the VMax carbs, they are basically the same as ours, and except for some different jets, which he does briefly mention, they tear down and rebuild and set up exactly the same. Many of us own this video and swear by it! Here's a link to a thread here with the information on how to purchase one, WELL worth the small cost!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?84030-DVD-of-1st-gen-motor-amp-carb-rebuild-process-purchase-info

OK next question, with airbox off and looking down at the slides, when you rev it up, do all 4 slides "do the dance" in unison? Also, as Snyper asked, how was it accelerating prior to first disassembly?? Check all vacuum hoses and caps for possible air leaks. Also, when you reassembled the carbs, did you reassemble with barb bodies on a flat surface? Perhaps one of the bodies is raised which may cause a leak at the base where they mount onto the boots. And, speaking of the boots, are all the clamps tight? Hey, just throwing out possibilities here..

OK first question, are you trying to run it without the airbox properly installed??? Have you tried sync'ing the carbs?

They're about an inch deep camos. what I usually do to disassemble is use various thickness of wood in between the pistons and compressed air applied to the hydraulic input to the caliper. Actually what I do is a piece of 1/4" plywood between the brake pads, then remove the wood and hit it again with air, then remove the pads or at least one pad and insert the plywood if needed. Once one piston pops that's as far as you can get with air, then the rest of the pistons have to be carefully removed. You might want to try the Pucster tee shirt trick to see if that fixes it for you, good idea! Are you doing the front or rear?? If you are doing the whole nine yards i.e. honing the cylinders, etc the front calipers are two piece. If that is what your game plan is, then for what the seal kits cost for the MK2 you may be better served considering a pair of R1 or R6 calipers instead...

Ahhh! With that picture above, follow the choke linkage from the choke knob back to the edge of the carbs. See that phillips screw there?? Well, a friend and I were talking about that adjustment, that sets up just how stiff the linkage is or how hard or easy it slides in and out. It helps keep the choke out when you pull it, the springs want to pull the linkage back in. Could be that screw has loosened up too, but I'm with gggGary on missing return springs combined with the screw being loose. Was that the screw you were talking about @steamer ?

Lookin' REAL good Darrin!! Betcha those 6 x 9's sound GREAT!

Just thought I would shamelessly bump this thread up, the rally is only a couple of weeks away...

There are a lot of us here on the site that will not run Metzlers even on a dare!! Several years there was a LOT of them literally throwing off chunks of rubber off and in a few instances resulting in crashes!! The Avon Venoms were for many years one of the "go to" tires but a few years ago some people started having issues with them as well. As far as tread wear numbers go, the Dunlop E-3 had the highest, higher than the Michelin. I believe that is also the case with the new E-4's. Don't even think of Dunlop D404's, they do not wear worth beans on the Venture even though they are rated as a "Touring Bike" tire. Maybe fine for lighter ones, but not on the almost 900 lb Venture. You are going to get many varied opinions on this thread, and it all depends on driving style, your pocket book, and how much you ride in the rain...

HUH?? Are you SURE??? That SUX!! I know they recently released a new model series but I thought one of them still had Sirus/XM... The advantage of wireless is just that, no wires!!

Yah! I was going to say Ebay or Pinwall Cycles in Ohio, but make the Insurance company pay full retail for all the new parts PLUS labor to fix like new!!! NEVER take the first offer, or the second one either... Glad you are OK!!

Not sure if Don ever found the pin collection, but I did give him specific instructions to hand deliver them to me at the WNY NE Regional Rally...

Well, if the "buzzing" sound is coming from under the seat, like around the bottom of the battery box then Dion is spot on! There is another possibility, dirty contacts on the start button. It causes resistance in the primary side of the starter solenoid circuit which can also cause the solenoid to buzz and not latch on. OK another question, when this happens does the dash stay on? There is a very remote chance your ignition switch is starting to go, but if that is the case you should loose the dash as well, and with the ignition switch failure, you won't get a buzzing, you pretty much get nothing, dead...

That's some interesting stuff!! Yes, the bike has an "ignition cutoff circuit" that works external from the TCI that turns it off. It is for safety and prevents you from starting in gear with the clutch out, trying to start in gear with the kick stand down, etc. Also I see you found out that there is a tip over safety switch that kills the ignition when the bike is on it's side! You can lean it as far as the crash bars will allow you to, but anything further than that and it shuts down the bike... You can lean these bikes over on turns quite a lot, enough to scrape the pegs!

It's a trick done with mirrors! Can't happen!! I know, you were lucky enough to catch him in your rear view mirror just as he was coming rushing past you...

Dan, it's sort of like splitting the fairing on a 2nd gen for the first time, if you never did it before you're kinda skeered of screwing up, after the second time you are teaching others! (No I never did a Voyager but I'm sure they are a breeze)

Here's a short list of filters... Fram 7317 Penzoil PZ-109 Motorcraft FL821 Purolator PL14612, PL14610 Some Purolators no longer fit due to redesign. Mobil1 M1-108, M1-110 Bosch 3300, 3323 Walmart ST7317 (may not be made any more) AC PF1237, PF2057 Hastings LF113, LF 240 STP S-02876, S-02867 Valvoline V050 WIX 51365, 51356 Oil, well there are do's and Don'ts!! Do NOT use any oil with friction inhibitors unless you like clutches that slip! That includes a LOT of automotive oils! Do not use any additives such as STP, etc for same reason! Do use Motorcycle specific wet clutch motor oils! Yes, most, if not all Diesel oils are OK to use! Synthetic or synthetic blends are OK and good to use, BUT not the best thing to use on motors with less than 20K on them as engine parts actually need a little friction to properly break in to their mated surfaces. On higher mileage engines, if dinosaur oil was used regularly there is a possibility the engine might be sludged up, and the synthetic will clean out the sludge (good) but that could lead to oil leaks if the sludge was plugging up a leak! (bad) Yamaha recommends a 20W50 oil. 15W45 is close enough unless you are in a very hot climate! 10W40 is kind of iffy, I won't use it but others do....

Whoo Boy! Can of worms!! I'll start it out, Bosch 3323 and Rotella T 15W45... Let the oil wars begin!

OK the dash anomalies may be due to needing to resolder the edge connectors on the dash board for the same reason as the TCI. Could also be a ground issue. The temp gauge is a known issue of reading too high, it was fixed with the MK2. The volt meters on the 1st gen leave a little to be desired, but they will give you an indication if the charging system or battery goes south...

Looks to be in overall very nice condition! OK I see 4 nice aftermarket accessories! The backrest, you're gonna love that! There are 3 different positions you can put that in! The highway boards, another nice creature comfort! The Baker airwings, on hot days you can get more air on you, on cooler days deflect some of the air away from you. The crash protectors on your engine covers, those chrome tubular things around the Venture emblem, those are about as rare as hen's teeth!! As Trader mentioned, it is kind of rare to find the louvers that still work and have all the pieces intact!

Probably...

Man, that's a really dusty windshield!!!

Heads up!!! The Rally is almost here!! All you last minute types and fence setters, time to make plans, make your reservations and SIGN UP ON THE CALENDAR!! Hurry before it's too late or you're gonna miss a really great time!!! So, who's all coming???

Let the tweeking begin!! Sounds like ya done good my friend! The very first thing I would do is REPLACE the upper and lower neck bearings and make sure the retaining nut is at the right torque. Seeing as you will most likely be rebuilding the front forks anyway for the leaking seal, go the extra mile and put in new progressive springs, you will be glad you did!! Unless your front tire was not balanced or it is cupped or fubar, betcha your front end will then feel solid as a rock. Of course you could also have an issue with the wheel bearings, there is always something with a 25 to 30 year old bike...

No Randy, that is his Neutral light that is on. Sure sounds like a carburetor issue to me! Could be idle jets, poor synchronization, pinholes in the diaphragms, etc etc etc. Your mixture adjustments should really be done with a CO sniffer (all 4 exhausts have removable plugs on them for this purpose) or with a "colortune" plug which allows you to see the actual color of the explosions inside each cylinder. Do a search on the "shotgun" method for cleaning the carbs, it might help. Seafoam can do just so much though, a plugged jet is hard to unplug...