bongobobny

Yah Steve, those are the ones I'm looking for! Now to flag down a Snap-On truck...

That's the same set I already have! Not working for me, the one size just starts to grip the allen head set screw but not tight enough to turn it out. Looking for a smaller stud remover next...

Ahhh!! Word of warning, with the risers you can't use those rubber half pucks that stabilize the fairing any more. I left mine off with seemingly no serious side effects...

Ummmm, sorry Don, but I also have the Flanders bars on as well. I don't think I took any pictures with the stock RSV bars and the Baron's risers. They do elevate the bars more than they pull them back, and for what I was looking for was to bring the bars back more so I wasn't leaning forward to reach the bars comfortably. the combination of the two worked out just perfect for me, and actually I have the handlebars rotated so the grips are low, but that's just MY style of riding...

Cool!

OK corrosion happens on those stator connectors and the resistance of the corrosion causes heat and eventually melts the connectors. Most of us fix it by cutting out the connector and hard soldering the wires... As far as statically testing the stator, with an ohmmeter each of the three white wires, with the connector unplugged, should read infinity ohms to ground. if you read something like say 10 ohms, or even 100 ohms to ground the stator is shorted to ground at one of it's windings. The next test, in your mind label each of the 3 wires as A, B, and C. Now with an ohmmeter read the resistance between a and B, A and C, and B and C. All 3 readings should be some low resistance and all be very close to each other. If one set of readings is lower than the other two by a significant amount (say more than 10% difference) then that winding most likely has shorted turns of wire. Your voltage readings seem to sound like the the charging system is working, however with your statement about the brake lights I wonder if your battery is toast! What you need to do is remove your battery, charge it up overnight, then take it to Auto Zone or any other car parts place or maybe even Walmart and have the battery "LOAD tested" for free...

I'm about 92% sure they are interchangeable Puc, but 8% thinks there may be some kind of difference. Heck, you have a MK1, why not try them on your scoot to see if they bolt up...

Yes, several of us have used the 1.5" risers and they will work with the stock cables BUT you may or may not have an issue with the cables pulling the throttle when you have the handlebars hard left. Give the cables a good yank to gain a little extra free play or reroute them...

Not yet, living a very busy life these last few days! Did find out that the one screw extractor I have that sort of bit in didn't work...

Ummm, sounds like classic Ignition Switch is going south issue to me...

Terrific!! Try your local Fastenall store if you have one...

Yes, the Baron's 1 1/2" risers work without any major issues. You may have to yank on your throttle cables a little to get extra slack or reroute. The only issue with the throttle cables is with the handlebars hard left the cables may pull increasing your RPM's... It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The Baron's risers will bring the handlebars up a little and back a slight tad. The Flanders bars, or the RSTD bars bring the handle grips back more, but then you get into the issue where you need longer clutch and brake hoses, and longer throttle cables. They are also a bit wider. Best bet is show up to a M&E and find someone who has already modified their bars and see if it does what you want it to!

Actually, use a spray furniture polish to clean your windshield and then the water will bead up. Then, believe it or not the faster you go the more the beaded up water rolls off the windshield! If you put a piece of plastic chrome door edge around the perimeter of the shield the water will not roll into the inside of the shield. The last trick for driving in the rain is to wear a pair of yellow lense shooter's glasses. This really works, you can see through the rain a lot better!

Yet another YUP!! Overfilled crankcase!!

What, was Puc using it???

OK the very first question, did you change the oil when you got it??? If so, WHAT kind of oil?? If you put in Automotive oil, chances are VERY likely the oil has friction inhibitors and they do not mix with our "Wet" clutches, it will cause the clutch to slip! Second guess, the clutch spring disc has weakened from setting all those years. replace it with a Heavy duty version made by PCW Racing of Schenectady NY. One of our vendor members, Skydoc_17 sells them. To totally disassemble, refurbish, and possibly replace friction discs and a better aftermarket Yamaha full size Heavy Duty clutch plate is a very easy operation. There is full instructions, with pictures in the 2nd Gen Technical Library (read only) forum on this site...

Buy a nice new F4 Customs screen! let's face it, windshields do not last forever, especially the stock ones! The F4 is a very durable replacement...

Ahh, yes, that's what I'm researching! saw a set that are squarish with ribs like a reamer. I do have a set of screw retractors that the #2 bit seems to want to catch but ran out of time last night to try out. What is needed is like a stud extractor that will bite into the recess...

Dunno but about 8 years ago I bought EBC's all the way around and they fit fine! The fronts are the same, just matters which way you bolt them on...

I think he is dealing with an allen head set screw Steve! I am right now dealing with a similar issue on my front axle covers! Several of them are stripped out and I had to beat them off using a hammer and a wood block to put my new front tire on (an E-4!) I am shopping around for the perfect easy out that will fit properly into the allen head. I'll get back on this in a day or three...

This may come as a surprise to you, but I too have a brand new 1st gen speedo in the box as well. Bought it about 8 years ago for a very good price off ebay...

I can see it all now, "Grandkids Of American Pickers" having a field day!! About 4 years ago I cleaned out my stash of 1st gen parts to include an '85 Royale project bike and it took two pickup loads to do...

Hmmm, try Ebay, or Pinwall Cycles in Ohio, or maybe a member has one. All seats from '99 to '12 are interchangeable in case you want to go to a nice black pillowtop seat, but then you would have to change the passenger as well to match... EDIT: Oh, wait, you have an '07, those already have the pillowtop, right?

What Heather said! Try jumpering the 3 wires together from the sidestand switch paying GREAT heed to the warning, and see if the problem goes away. If it does time for a new switch. If the problem persists check and clean the circled connector. The last place, and unfortunately the place where the problem really exists with your stated symptoms of the bike NOT cutting out is the computer monitor itself. Quite possibly you have a bad solder connection on the edge connector on the CMU where the Green/Blue wire comes into the CMU...

Then I'm thinking you have a good '83 TCI!!