bongobobny

Well, I got up this morning, pee'd, fed the cats, and am now on the deck... Oh, look, a motorcycle just went by!! Think I'll get a cup of coffee...

Ah, yes, trials and tribulations of replacing brake lines! If the kit you purchased was specifically for your bike then they certainly screwed up!! If the kit was just a generic "should fit all" variety then they need to know it won't work for your bike! Either way hope you get your money back, you are right, they ain't cheap!

Yes you will!! The R1/R6 stuff does not bolt directly on to a MK1. The bolt spacing is different from a MK1 and MK2. You need to change your fork lowers, and the rotors to a MK2 in front, and in the rear you need to change the caliper mounting bracket from a MK1 to a MK2 AND change the caliper mounting bracket pivot bolt on the swing arm as well, and the rear rotor, all different... You can still tie the front brake lines together so you have both front brakes, but if you want BETTER braking I strongly suggest converting your front brakes to a MK2 setup which also gets rid of those pesky power robbing hydraulic anti dives! The MK2 uses electric anti dive solenoids, triggered by the brake lights via a relay. The bolt spacing is also correct for the R1/R6 calipers and is a direct plug and play with the MK2 rotors. Someone once said that the 2nd gen rotors are also a direct bolt on but I can not confirm that, and the member that said it is no longer on this forum. The MK1 is only a 2 piston setup whereas the MK2 is a 4 piston setup! There is a reason the MK2 upgraded the brakes, the MK1 brakes were anemic at best! Also you should use the front brake master cylinder from the MK2, the piston is bigger delivering a slightly larger volume of hydraulic fluid to the calipers which is needed with the larger total piston area of the MK1 vs the MK2. Also Stainless Steel brake lines do help, less line swelling with them which results in more power going to the actual brakes...

Try Aleve instead of Ibuprofen...

Well, another thread thoroughly hijacked...

Oh yeah, NOW I see it...

OK several years ago there was a thread just like this one, but I'm too lazy to look it up so I'll have to type the whole story out again. Back in the mid 70's I worked for a gentleman by the name of Bob Moog, the guy who invented the Moog synthesizer! While working at Moog Music, Inc. I met this very good friend of mine Ron Mruczek. We hit it off from the get go, and I ended up being his roadie for his band. (I also hung out with another band that two brothers who also worked at Moog Music were part of, but that's a different story). Anyway, being the 70's, a continuation of the 60's, usually while Ron was playing in the club I would drink several beers (and indulge in "other" activities common for that era) and have a good time listening to the music. Well, one such night I was "playing drums" rather loudly with my hands on the table, and my buddy Ron introduced me as "Bongo Bob" to the audience. The name stuck! Actually it was very funny, rumors started that I actually practiced the bongos for hours daily. One night someone brought in a set of bongos and I actually had to play those things on stage that night... Anyway, waaaay back when I got my first computer and went to set up my email account I tried using bongobob@ only to find out it was already in use!! Not sure who has it, but I did find out there is a "Bongo" Bob Smith who produces a few Contemporary Christian groups and has been mentioned more than once on album liners. Anyway, seeing as I live in New York State (near Buffalo) I added the ny to bongobobny for my email, and screen names... As Paul Harvey used to say, "Now you have the rest of the story, good DAY!"

You noticed! I also noticed a link to the Venturers but no link to Ventureriders...

Oily mess could have been caused from overfilling motor oil. With the bike level and not running for at least 8 hours, the level should be about 1/2 way up. Any more and the excess oil gets forced out as blowby, mostly ending up in the airbox area...

Guys, not sure but I think Dennis wants to know where the stock second horn is located...

Happy Canada Day, EH?!!?

Hmmmm, looks like someone went to manual override!! Follow Ebay, they periodically show up...

The screws still have the big oversized washers on them??

Aftermarket is made by Ignitech, a member, Dingy from Madison, OH WAS selling them a while ago programmed to your specific bike, but I'm not sure if he is any more. Otherwise check EBAY but with used parts it's a crap shoot. You may want to check with member Skydoc_17, he may or may not have one on hand. Earl is a very honest trustworthy person and if he does have one, I'm sure it will be pretested. The problem with the '83 TCI is where it receives vacuum from for the vacuum advance. It is 180 degrees out of phase from where they take vacuum from on the '84 on up. Now, if you wanted to reroute where the "boost sensor" receives it's vacuum from, you could use a TCI from an '84 through '89. You could also try Pinwall Cycles, a major boneyard for bikes. Their prices are a little high, but they will stand behind what they sell. If you have problems with what you buy they will replace/exchange it...

Quick question, when it "died" on you was EVERYTHING dead, i.e. no dash, no light, etc?? With the ignition switch failure you loose everything except the radio... Also, let me restate my answer on the "Starter Circuit Cut Off Relay" part of the Starting circuit cut off relay assembly which also contains the fuel pump relay. Perhaps I did not fully understand your question,, my initial answer was pertaining to your stated problem in post 1 where you stated the bike just died like you turned the key off, and then with turning the key on and off a few times things went back to normal. With that symptom it is highly unlikely the relay is at fault as all it does is supply ground via the start switch to the starter solenoid primary coil. The actual solenoid secondary contacts are what supply the starter motor with electricity, and in rare instances if the secondary has enough internal resistance it can drag battery voltage down to a level where you will get no spark, however the starter turns over more slowly as well. Once again has NOTHING to do with your stated problem! So, to continue, yes the starting circuit cut off relay ALSO will disable the ignition, BUT only when you try to start the bike in gear with the clutch out, with the kickstand down in any gear but neutral, etc AND it results in totally disabling the starter motor as well, as the ground path for the starter solenoid is disconnected from the starter switch via the open relay contacts. The relay primary is connected to all the safety switches that determine whether or not the bike is NOT in gear with the clutch out and the sidestand down. The relay secondary is in no way connected to the ignitor box in any way shape, or form, the relay secondary contacts are only connect the start switch to the starter solenoid primary coil. Anyway, keep us informed on whether or not the problem is fixed, AND if it reoccurs, before you switch the key on and off is EVERYTHING except the radio dead??

VMax valves are bigger. VMax cams are higher lift/duration. There is even some aftermarket cams for VMax and stronger valve springs, depending on how deep your pockets are! Check out PCW Racing, yes, the same people that make the stronger clutch springs for 2nd gen Ventures! I sent them a 1300 engine to have bored out and put in their racing cams onto the VMax heads that I sent with the engine, and their stronger springs. Complete rebuild, and dyno'ed and break in is running me a little over $5000 US but I guarantee you I will have one of the fastest touring bikes around...

Ummmm, how shiny were they?? They could have had a thin layer of oxidation on them... Bottom line, only time will tell if it fixed your problem or not!

Really, none of the above things would cause you the problems you stated in post 1, they would display different symptoms. Yours seem quite typical for the ignition switch, a known weak point on the 2nd Gen's. Another very remote problem, other than possibly a dirty battery connection, would be the contacts on the kill switch but that's kind of reaching out there...

We bake at 225 degrees because water boils at 212! Usually bake for an hour or so, ideally with the cover off!

OK if you do all the maintenance suggested here, you can rest assured you should be worry free!! These bikes are TOURING bikes and are designed to be driven a looooong time with little concern for break downs...

Sounds like a bad seat on the needle valve...

Yup!! Sounds like the dreaded ignition switch failure syndrome to me too!! Do a search, somewhere on this site EUSA1 did a nice write up on how to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts before it is too far gone to save...

Yup!! Dancing tach points to the TCI or connections. Could be water in TCI, which is a pain to get to. Unfortunately also, only '83 TCI's work on an '83, they are different from the '84 - '89...

It's easy, go to Classifieds, then St Jude Auctions. Here's the quick way, just click the link... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=27

That sure is some strange stuff (notice I did not say strange $hit)...