Kandaje

Greetings... Many hardware stores used to carry NEBO safety glasses. They were the single lense wrap around style. came in a variety of colors including clear. Very well made, no distortion, bullet proof and came with a long neck strap. I know they are bullet proof - I ruined 3 pairs using them as shooting glasses! Or rather traded three pairs saving my eyes from exploding cartridge cases. Totally UV A and B coated Polycarbonate lenses - tough and durable. Wipe clean with any rag without scratching. They were $9.95. All the local stores stopped carrying them about 10 years ago, but occasionally I'll still see one up on a dusty back shelf. I still have a pair of dark ones for day driving, nearly 15 years old! I abuse them on a daily basis. Clean them using the inside of my dirty sweaty shirt! Still as clear as the day I bought them. I used to have a clear pair - but they got lost. So I picked up some $5 safety glasses in an auto parts store for working under the truck - stored in a Crown Royal bag - They're perfect for night driving... But when you are on the road - check in at the hardware store in the little podunk hay seed towns - They might still have a collection of Nebo's at a heavy discount collecting dust. Why anyone would pay $200 for a pair of sunglasses is beyond my understanding. More money than sense I guess. I found a pair of Oakleys just sitting in the road a couple of months ago - then found the little peach bag for them a couple of days and a couple of miles later. I have to admit, they do fit well - almost like weightless goggles, and are nice and clear. They certainly aren't worth whatever whomever paid for them, maybe he should have invested in a $5 neck strap - cheap insurance! I have noticed that they are so light that the wind tends to move them around my face and some of the winds we get around here have moved them down to the tip of my nose - expensive junk. I figure that's how the last owner lost them! Wind blew them right off the damn fools head. I only wear them under my 3/4 helmet wired for intercom now... My Nebo's aren't comfortable in that helmet - their only downside. They are big and a little nose heavy and have thick earpieces. And you have to take off the neck strap to put them on under a helmet. I have wondered if the Oakleys would stop a determined bumble-bullet at 200 combined MPH? I know the face shield on a previous full face helmet didn't and that nearly tore my head off - She bullseyed me dead center between the eyes - My neck was sore for a week! Nearly knocked me off the bike! Funny thing was - I saw her coming from about a 1/4 mile away! She changed direction 90' just to hit me! I KNOW my Nebo's will - I was wearing them too! If I hadn't - I'd probably have been very unhappy about it - or dead...

Greetings... A number of years ago, My mother sent me a watch that came in a really nice black domed leather box. It has 2 chrome snaps, and just screams Biker accessory... The watch, unfortunately was rather cheap - and didn't survive time - And I don't wear pimped out jewelry anyway - So now I've sat for hours - on the bike - just pondering WHERE and more importantly - HOW to mount it! It's 7.5" long, 3.75" wide, and 3.5" tall. It has a divider in the center which seperates it into 2 padded compartments. Each compartment is the perfect length for all the normal junk I carry in my 2 front pants pockets - Bic lighters, carmex, dental pick, rolling papers, fold up reading glasses etc... http://i26.tinypic.com/72ggad.jpg Any Ideas where this should properly go on an 89VR? I was just going to stick it on the right side - over my dead CB with Velcro but figured it couldn't hurt to ask. Someone might have a better idea. Besides - it's rather too tall for that - It would bump my hand during a U-turn... It's too tall to fit on the top cover, and besides, I have plans for a home-made tank bag. I also considerd the space over the ignition - twixt the bars - or possibly covering the Cruise control lights, or even on the travel bag - facing to the rear... If I had 2 of them - I'd put one on each side! But alas - Only the one...

Greetings... Ozark are you the one that outbid me by 50 cents on that lower chin scoop - cow catcher this morning? Serves me right for sleeping in so late! Dang-it! Oh well, I'd already bid what I considered max- but I did just drop $65 for misc mounting hardware for it and a few other things from an online parts house. Maybe I'll just put some Mad-Max rocket launchers down there. hehehhehe. Got some left over from the recent independance day madness. They're a lot of fun when playing night lazer tag... I think there are at least three front fenders that I'm watching - an 83, an 84, and an 87. Mines all cracked up - but anything I buy would have to be filled, sanded and repainted anyway - so I might as well just do it to the one I have...

Greetings... Detailed Instructions: (assuming your 89VR is just like mine) Note: Unless you are replacing the stock speaker with another stock speaker - You'll want to replace both as a matched pair. Poor sound quality will result if you use differently rated speakers and may or may not result in damage to your driving amp. Remove the Top cover (AKA Fake Gas Tank Cover). Left side: Remove the Radio/cassette deck assembly - Insert your key into the lock, turn, pull up, release the upper and lower spring catches on the right side of the assembly - gently pull the assembly up and out using the chrome handles. Set it aside out of the sun. Now is an excellent time to clean it! NOW is also an excellent time to install thin plastic spacer shims to the female blue interface plugs. So that the radio interface sits a little more snugly. You can get an assorted bag of white plastic styrene sheets at pretty much any hobby store for about a $1 and cut your own to fit - no sense spending $3 for them at a hardware store. I used the thinnest sheet in the assortment pack. .001 or something. I dont remember - and it's probably not too important. Just a peace of mind thing really. The other pieces will come in handy over time - making switch mounts, relay mounts etc... Unscrew the inner radio box plastic bezel - 6 screws around the outside of the box. You can't actually remove it from the fairing without disconnecting those blue plastic interface connectors from the Amp - so just loosen it up and drop it back inside the fairing under the outer left side plastic. It's a bit of a wiggle but it will go in through the outer deck. Align the headlight adjuster knob so that the lettering is level and right side up then It just pulls straight off. You align it so that you don't have to remember which way it was pointing when you pulled it off 3 beers ago... Remove all the mounting screws for the left side radio box deck - the thing that the inner radio box holder fit onto. Multiple screws - some may be missing. 1 up by the mirror, 1 up under the windshield - be careful NOT to scratch your windshield! A number of them along the right side - If you still have the (don't know what it's actually called) left inner steering head grill? That slotted grill on the left side - where the corrosponding piece on the right side the hazard switch is fastened to. Mines missing - so I don't know if it comes off with the upper deck plastic like the right one does or not. I think 3 screws on the left side of the plastic? Anyway - lift up the plastic and reach in and disconnect the speaker wire plug. It may be difficult - a little squirt of WD-40 into the plug won't hurt it. You'll wish you had three hands - a helper with another pair of small hands is useful here. Clean up the connectors and add a nice healthy dollup of Dialectric grease to the backs of each one where the wires go in - you'll thank yourself the next time you drive in the rain... If you have a cigarette lighter installed - disconnect the wires. Remove the deck panel plastic. The Speaker is attached with 4 each - 8mm nuts, lock washers and recessed washers (they are NOT simple flat washers - they have a recessed "divot" around the hole on one side - I really don't know if it's critical or not - but on mine the recesses on all the washers were pointed toward the front of the speaker) - . The speaker will have a white or aged yellow plastic weather half shroud on it. Once you remove the nuts and washers - the speaker comes out the front of the panel with the grill cover. Remember that - It's embaressing to try to screw them back on from the back of the panel if anyone is watching and results in a oops - V8 moment when you slap yourself on the forehead. Install the replacement speaker. Pretty much any adequate 4" speaker (set). The stock speakers are 4 ohm/10 watt continuous/20 watt max - as written on the back of my stock speakers (again, I'm assuming your 89VR is just like mine). If you aren't an audio-phile here's the simple: The higher the ohms - the more power is required to drive them. The higher the watts - the less likely they will blow at higher volumes. The trick is matching your speakers to your amp. Replacing 4 ohm speakers with 8 ohm rated speakers - results in half the sound you are used to - if you even hear anything at all. Using different wattage rated speakers usually results in burning up one or both of the amps output channels over time - it depends on the quality of the load balancing of the amp. Using too low rated speakers with the death star of Stereo wars power amp - means you will instantly blow the cones right out through the grill when you crank up the volume. It's a rather interesting sound - I recomend that everyone hear it at least once in their lives... If your replacement comes with wires attached - You may have to splice the two speaker wires onto the old connector - unless the replacement comes with the same connector. Don't get cheesy and just twist wires together - Do it correctly! The important thing to remember is to get the PHASE correct. BOTH speakers must be using the same phase - In other words - The cones are driving in and out the same direction at the same time - they have to be wired exactly the same. Speakers wired out of phase with each other - cancel each other out. Resulting in poor sound quality. Usually, what you hear is a complete lack of bass responce most noticeable - one cone driving out while the other is driving in - resulting in a cancelled wave. Essentially, you have just inadvertantly built a noise cancelling sound envelope around yourself - not, in this case, a good thing... You may or may not have to solder some wires on the replacement. This is a good reason why you should replace them as a pair - unless you have another stock speaker handy. A lot of speakers aren't marked for phase - some are some arn't - and what the heck are the wire colors? It can get rather confusing. But basicly - it really DOESN'T matter which wire you hook up to which connector - so long as you do them BOTH the same. Some people will argue that point. The cone should be driving out when it's supposed to be driving out - But any party hardy collage freshman can tell you that just having them in phase results in loud enough music either way! If you do have to solder - UNSOLDER the old wires where they attach to the old speaker - don't cut it - the wires are too short to begin with and you don't want to have to replace the wire if you don't need to... So take the time to get it all correct before putting everything back together again... Reverse the procedure to get it all back together again - With a major important detail - when you replace the deck panel back on - pay attention to the air duct and line it up with the fairing air grill with a screw driver as you position it back down Last but certainly not least - Enjoy your tunes... Oh and just in case you are replacing them as a set - Here's the details for the RIGHT side: Pretty much exactly the same - except that the CLASS and CB Wire bundles makes getting them out of the fairing a minor PITA. The good news is that you really don't have to, just to get at the speaker. The wire bundles are long enough that you really don't have to uncrew the inner mounting box from the outer deck plastic. You can lift up the entire deck, CB, CLASS and all, enough to get at the speaker without requiring that you remove it all. Just be careful NOT to bend the plastic deck - It will shatter if you bend it too much. Or you can try the same trick of slipping the CB CLASS inner mounting bezel inside the outer deck panel - like you did with the radio box on the left side - But the CB is so deep that it does make that a little difficult, but not impossible. Just lift the whole thing up and stick a 2X4 under it and you can work on it from there easily enough... The radio/tape deck is just too heavy in my opinion, and the amp connectors are too short to accomplish the same thing on the left side without taking too much of a risk breaking something expensive. All in all - the right speaker - is actually somewhat easier to get to than the left one. But neither is difficult - Just be careful with that 20 year old plastic. It's quite brittle... All in all, it shouldn't take more than an hour to do the entire job - If you've ever dissasembled the fairing before. Maybe 3 if you're spending a lot of time looking around for the first time... And one last note - Any time you go diving into the fairing - bring along a tube of dialectric grease, cans of electrical contact cleaner and WD-40, and a new clean bronze toothbrush. Clean every electrical connector you can reach - one at a time, and goop them up with grease. You'd be surprised just how many weird little annoyances you'll fix just doing that!

Greetings... Somewhere, a few months back - I found an online - Spreadsheet - which I cannot now find and regret now not saving - that had some information about unique year and model parts. If I find it again - I'll definately post it!

Greetings... Actually, I see someone else also started up a similar thread - Year to Year differences - That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for too! Let's stick with that one - I'll post any info I discover in that thread..

Greetings... This really IS on-topic: It's the consideration of the concept of NOT really needing to communicate with the wife on her machine... Well - Cell phones are great - If you've already sacrificed your 1st born for that 4th mortgage and laid out your filthy-lucre for the hideously expensive Kit-bashed Afro-engineered non-standard over-priced Azure-Incizor setup - Hope you splurged and got that GPS locator phone thingy too! And you happen to be in an area where you can actually get a signal. East of the Mississippi - Sure - But out here in the Wild Wild West prior to the left coast - you're more than likely in Cellular Hell 80% of the time. But then if you CAN afford all that silly nonsense - You aren't complaining about the price of gas, or the price of seperate hotels either. I wear mine on my belt - turned OFF - and I'm certainly NOT making or taking calls at 70 mph. That's NOT why I ride... After playing the frustrating "Can you hear me now" game for 2000 miles - the 20 year old CB decided to give up the ghost within moments of starting the trip - I spent over $200 trying to find a "Good" GMRS solution - at nearly every consumer electronics retail outlet I could find along the way. Only to return it all for full refunds after the trip because it's ALL land-fill. Then wasted a week online discovering that 80% of the over-priced Junk available - was just the same crap futzed together in 500 different ways - each one requiring you to throw away yet another $100 just to get it to work once you've already laid out 5 times that much or MORE!! Because it's all NON-STANDARD junk. Unless of course - you are willing to drop as much or more than what you may have paid for the entire Motorcycle? And if you did- and are happy with it - More power to you! Who am I to stomp on the head of your favorite money puppy... But for what? Why DO we ride? Just to hear the wife screeching in the ear? Look at that! Look at that!! Oh isn't that cute! I have to pee, My butt hurts, my foot's asleep, what was that noise!?! Maybe we should pull over! No thanks - I get enough of that at home. It is a perpetual mystery to the Woman, but not to the Man, why we spend so much on Beer and so little on flowers. It's obvious to me that the designer of the Comm systems on our machines was either married or was exceedingly wise - It's got an OFF switch! And yes, I know very well, that there IS a price for using it! I'd much rather enjoy the silence and the oneness with the machine, focussing on that white line dissapearing over the horizon, wondering what's around the next turn - THAT'S why I ride... She will chatter ceaslessly at the next rest stop anyway. - That's a given... [For the ladies - at the risk of getting in trouble for divulging a MAN secret - The Answer to the perpetual mystery: Stuffing flowers in your mouths usually results in a raising of the volume - Stuffing enough beer in your mouth - eventually results in silence or snoring or some other acceptable alternative] BUT! Since the CB died - I've surprisingly discovered that I'm a much happier camper - that I smile and laugh, and enjoy life and riding, a LOT more now with the signifigant other - than I did before the CB died. I've pretty much now dismissed the idea of a useful, functional, durable, dependable external comm system - as being COUNTER-productive to my peace of mind. Hand signals serve us just fine now - unless of course, someone finally does comes up with an inexpensive GMRS drop in replacement for the CB as described above. In which case - I hope the OFF switch is EXTRA heavy duty! Until then - Blessed Silence! But then, I'm a weirdo - looking forward to my Alsheimer's years - When everything becomes new again! I actually DO try real hard to find the silver linings in all the dark clouds I see ahead on that horizon - even IF it doesn't seem so at first...

Greetings... Does anyone know of where we can find a detailed listing of the differences between different models and years of the various 1st gens? has anyone compiled such a list? I have found lists of what the various models and years are called etc, but no details of how or what they differ. For example - If I were buying parts for my 89VR on Ebay - what parts from a seller parting out an 88 or an 87 would I NOT want to buy? I know that most of the fairing parts, for example. are pretty much identical - from 83-85 and 86-93, and a lot like front turn signal lenses - are identical in all years. I guess what I'm really interested in knowing is are there any known "this part ONLY fits an 19XXVR and no other year" type of situation. I'm guess I'm asking because I see that each year has it's own service manuals, etc - and parusing them, I really don't see any differences between them!

Greetings... I'd go with a good GMRS set (Good luck finding a GOOD set though) - over CB for a number of reasons... Even a GOOD Bike mounted CB is rather short range. 2 miles line of sight - TOPS! Even those hideous ultra cheapo $39 a pair radio shack 8 mile (2.5 - 3 in reality) units outperforms ANY cb setup short of the ultra-Uber-redneck Gearjamming 18 wheeler... The instant you get seperated on the road, and you take an exit and she didn't - you'll regret you didn't get those 28 mile (good for only about 10 - cut any milage claim in half and drop all fractions of 10 ) GMRS radios. Ask me how I know... Seeing her in your mirror a couple of miles back and spending the next 30 minutes of "can you hear me? Can you hear me now? Can you hear me now?" - a total waste of time and not why you ride... If you don't MIND paying for 2 hotel rooms - 150 miles apart tonight - Go ahead and use CB. As for CB functionality for road info? Virtually Useless. I recently made a 2k mile trip and I never once heard even 1 other voice on ANY channel - other than mexican truck drivers that is. I live in an area that used to be CB hell! So much chatter that finding ANY open channel was near impossible at any time day or night. But that was 10 years ago - Now - There's NOTHING on CB anymore. It's like no one is even using them anymore. So good luck trying to use channel 9 and getting ANY kind of emergency responce. Go ahead and factor that fantasy right out of the equation... Sure it's fun in a group ride and there's a lot of useless fun chatter at biker events. But when you NEED to communicate clearly with the Significant other - Having 143 channels times 30 some-odd privacy codes = > 4200 channels to choose from that aren't being used by blathering drunken morons stepping on your signal - especially if you are talking her in from 10 miles away because one or the other of you took a wrong turn that the other missed. Well you get the picture. Communication 1st - entertainment 2nd... GMRS is crystal clear - compared to the foggy noise of CB... Most group riders I've met these days ALSO use or have GMRS! - Why use 40 year old technology CB ? Can you even still buy a GMRS these days that DOESN'T have the NOAA weather channels? Oh and you can actually receive NOAA weather on your AM/FM radio nearly everywhere these days anyway - so it's redundant. Which is I suppose a good thing... Most GMRS handsets are cheaper and better than any CB. Why no one makes a GMRS set that ISN'T a walkie talkie type is beyond my understanding. If they exist - I haven't seen any. It doesn't need a long expensive heavy antenna - no SWR nonsense - a small velcro mount would do just fine that you can stick on just about anywhere I can't imagine that there ISN'T a market for a small installable bike powered fully functional NON-portable GMRS that integrates directly into the standard 5 pin intercom system - for less than $50! Every biker in america would buy it ! I know I would! Yet everything I've seen so far is that flimsy chinese made walkie talkie junk - with their flimsy overpriced junk accessories, and p*ss poor walkie talkie two handed button placement engineering. Just sweat once on one of those cheap $20 earpieces and it's forever useless! And who the heck in their correct mind designs a ptt button directly on the microphone? It's insanity I tell you!! Have you even seen these cheesy belt clips they come with? Purposefully designed for you to lose it! I want a unit that has a standard plug in auto radio power recepticle, rubber armored waterproof box that houses the electronics, replaceable wired antenna with a stick-on rubber mount (screws optional), a replaceable wired backlit LCD with a LARGE display - I don't want to have to wear my reading glasses, replaceable control/button panel with nice big durable weatherproof buttons that can be operated with thick gloves - part of the LCD panel - the panel should flip up and down so you can hide it when parked and protect it from the sun and weather when not being used. It should plug in seemlessly to the intercom system - and use all the existing controls. The controls should have up and down channel selects with seperate buttons for setting privacy codes - NO MENUS DAMNIT!! I might need to do this by touch in the rain at 70 mph while some drunken logger is trying to pass me in a snaking downhill canyon on a muddy road full of gravel at night!!! Better yet - at least 3 memory channels (in case you are getting stomped on), scan, HI/LO power, Emergency Call button, with multiple selectable call tones - Okay - those can be on a menu... Basicly - a direct swap out of the current CB radio system. And it shouldn't cost more that $50 - $100 tops for a single unit. Heck! At that price - I'd buy 3 and equip every vehicle including my mothers car! It would sweep the nation just like the CB craze did back in the middle 70's! Imagine the movie remakes!!! Smokie and the GMRS bandits!! Why doesn't this exist yet? Surely I'm not the first one to think about it? It's a greedy conspiricy I tell you!!! I'm tired of all this non-standard kit bashing and home brew rewiring just to get a functional unit without having to sacrifice my first born to get a 4th mortgage to pay for it! LOL!!

Greetings... If you just pull the tape deck out of a 1st Gen - results in NO audio - - because pulling the deck results in an open across pins 7 and 1 on the white cable which tells the Amp/controller/tuner box to listen for audio on the now missing tape deck... There is no Aux on the standard 1st Gen audio equipment. It's fairly simple to make an adapter that fits the white cable from the dead tape deck to the amp/controller/tuner if you are handy with a soldering iron and have an electronics parts supply house nearby... About the only parts you would need to purchase - assuming that you are willing to tear apart and recylce parts from the dead tape deck to make a simple single Aux input - are: Some wire, a switch, some solder, and a stereo plug for your mp3 player. I'd use a mounted female stereo plug - that way you can plug in just about anything you want.. The switch - position 1 - closes pins 7 and 1 and opens the aux audio - so you can hear the radio. Position 2 - opens pins 7 and 1 and closes the aux audio - so you can hear your mp3 player. Important is isolating (opening and closing) the seperate audio input - otherwise you WILL suffer from the degredation in sound from the radio - I believe the audio lines on the white cable from the amp/controller/tuner are normally live and that Yamaha isolated that line in the Tape deck itself - not in the amp. So you need to take care of that yourself... And you can make it as complicated as you want - You could use a multiple pole rotating switch - and have as many Aux inputs as you wanted - wired in as many combinations of audio inputs as you wanted... See The diagram listed in the thread above -

Greetings... Because a Motorcycle is NOT a commercial vehicle. Semi-Tractor Trailers are. (nearly always anyway). Without a violation or probable cause - it's harrasment AKA discrimination. Hell - they aren't allowed to harrass Muslem looking people at the airports - But it's perfectly acceptable to strip search a WASP granny and STEAL her toe nail clippers? That's BS... I don't know about you guys but I'm fed up with this Police State nonsense... Every full dress touring/cruiser MC rider I know are THE most safety concious people on the planet. We have to be or we don't last long out there. It's Darwinian by nature and we know it. Write a letter to the event organizers and the chambers of commerce of the towns where they are held - tell them that unless they get on board with the class action law suit - You aren't showing up next year to spend your money. Hit them in the pocket books...

Greetings... WOW! Utter chaos! A million near misses and not one female driver in sight!! I'll probably pay for that remark...

Greetings... It's not difficult. I'm a bit ham fisted and can't get my claws in through the turn signals either... It only takes about 10 minutes to get all the plastic apart. It's pretty straight forward - just remove the screws and disconnect the wiring plugs. The speakers are mounted with 4 screws (on mine anyway) to the top section of the plastic next to the air vents. You'll probably spend more time attaching the speakers to the old wiring harness unless they come with the same plug - than you would getting to them...

Greetings... If you are just passing through, or staying in the area for a few days, Here's a list of some of the more OUT-OF-THE-WAY roads that you'll definately want to ride on. Some short, some long -- but all fun. If Your definition of fun is winding, twisty turns, 180 degree climbing and diving hairpins intermingled with long flat out straightaways. Once you've done the Tourist roads - The Grand Mesa, The CO Nat Monument, etc, You might want to check out these smaller shorter drives. So fire up Google maps in another tab, center on Grand Junction, and find these roads! The Debeque Cut-off, 45 1/2 rd: (about 20 miles) Runs from the I-70 Debeque exit (heading south) to hwy 65 near the town of Mesa. From there you can either go up over the Grand Mesa if you are headed further south like Delta or Montrose, or head back down to I-70 if you are headed to points west of Grand Junction. Normally clean, new pavement, lots of truck traffic during the day, but after rush minute, is usually deserted near sundown. You could also continue up Hwy 330 through Colbran then up to Vega Reservoir, or even explore the many back roads going up over or even around the Grand Mesa from there! Reeder Mesa Road: (about 20 miles) Runs from Hwy 50 in WhiteWater to Lands End then Kannah Creek rd which comes out further down Hwy 50 just before county line. A shorter very fun road, normally deserted, new pavement, very curvy climbing and diving hairpins, watch out for wild life, rocks and mud on the curves. This IS working ranch country! Hwy 141, WhiteWater to GateWay, AKA Unaweep Canyon: (about 35 Miles) Incredible Scenery, long sweeping banked curves, beware the wildlife! Some hours in the mornings and twilight, I have seen roaming gangs of deer and elk all over the road and fields. Not to mention the domesticated cattle and sheep! Lots of places to pull over and take pictures. Scattered ranches. Go to the Gateway Auto museum once you get there! Little Park Road: (about 20 miles or more depending) : Tourists that want to drive the Co Nat Monument usually go up Monument road off of broadway, pay $5 at the Government toll booth, and end up in Fruita after an hour of stop and go construction traffic. Not a lot of fun if your bike is over heating, dodging stupid tourist children and dogs running out in the road. Those of us who live here, know that telling the Government Toll Booth operator that you are heading up to Glade Park - saves you the $5, but the really adventurous bypass the toll booth altogether and go up Little Park Road to Glade Park. It begins with a long steep climb up to the 'Moon', a huge slickrock area that you can see from GJ, to DS road - The main road up on Glade Park. From there, you can turn left and head to the Glade Park store (the only one there!) for a cold beverage. From there you have a choice of 4 directions. Head east (left turn) to go to the fruita reservoirs in a 30 mile dirt road loop back to DS road, head south and explore the ranch country - You may even find "The Pot Holes" A local waterfall where we usually lose 2 or 3 drunks a year who think they are in Mexico cliff diving; Head West back to the Monument road, or north back down to GJ... East Orchard Mesa: (about 12 Miles) From 32 Rd & C 1/2 rd half way up the 32 rd bridge hill to 38 rd in Palisade. This is the 'Fun' shortcut if you are changing from I-70w to Hwy 50s. Directly off I-70w, take the 1st Palisade exit right out of Debeque canyon before you cross the river - then turn left again at the base of the Palisade bridge (hwy 6) up 38 rd. In other words - don't cross the river! It's definately NOT the fastest. It's a slow pleasent country drive through the fruit orchards and wineries. During August - you'll be lucky to make it in 3 hours with all the fruit stand stops and winery tastings! Short half mile straights with 90 degree turns that follows above the Colorado River through our most fruitful and bountiful. West Elk Loop: Hwy 92 from Hotchkiss to Blue Mesa Reservoir: (About 50 Miles) Then Hwy 50 to Gunnison, then Hwy 135 up through Crested Butte up to the Paonia State park Hwy 133 ( about 100 Miles) From there, you can either head west back to Hotchkiss, or Go east to Carbondale over the pass. Doing the entire West Elk loop from GJ is an entire day trip! Getting there is half the fun! The tourist cage traffic is almost non-existent with gas being so expensive - Lots of FREE camping areas, rest stops and some of the most incredible scenery you will ever see. The tourists head over to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison where they willingly PAY Government vacation tax - This road is basicly the NEXT Canyon over - sans tourists and taxes. If Winding mountain roads, steep passes, and little to none cage traffic, spiced up with snow covered mountains, steep deep dark canyons, breezing along a mountain creek, are your idea of Ideal motorcycle driving - You can't beat the West Elk Loop...

Greetings... I thought that was a given? I know I don't suffer from Harley Envy on my 89 VR...

Greetings... They aren't powered. Or rather the guy yanking on the monkey's leash -