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Showing results for tags 'shock'.
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Another rear shock question
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hi Folks, I just recently purchased a beautiful 88 White VR with 44K on heer and I just found out the rear shock does not hold air. It pumps up then bleeds off right away as she loweers herself. My question is ; What normally goes south, the air line to the shock, fittings, or the shock itself? Thanks in advance, Kim -
Bad news from the local mechanic. He said that the rear shock is gone and it is dangerous to ride. Good man, I think, cause he said it would be expensive if I bought it direct from Yamaha and suggested somewhere like ebay. So, I am looking for comments, advice and probably somewhere to buy a rear shock. Is it a bad idea to buy a used shock? My 89 only has 33K miles. Maybe its not the miles but the age. Iowa Guy Tim Lantz
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Let me tell you what is so good about this group!! Over the past year or two I have mentioned how I am having issues with the suspension on my '87 VR and was thinking maybe I should swap out the rear shock. The last thread about that was probably about 6 months ago at least, and died away as they all do and that was pretty much the end of that discussion. A few days ago out of the blue I get a PM from Gibvel, offering me a used rear shock for the cost of the shipping! We discussed various shipping options and then I started a thread to see if we could organize a relay to get the shock to me. That thread died and it appeared as though I would have to pay to have the shock shipped to me.....no big deal. Then out of the blue Leadwolf56 contacts me and offers to bring the shock up to my neighbourhood when he comes up this summer if I can get it to him from Gibvel's. These are two guys that don't owe me anything, that really don't even know me and yet kept me in mind with an offer of the shock, and an offer of delivering the shock to me. If I wasn't such a macho kinda guy right now, I could almost get a little misty here!:rotf: Gibvel and Leadwolf56 are great examples of what this site and this group is all about - people sharing a common interest and helping each other out. Gentleman....I tip my hap to you both and obviously say a big THANKYOU. I am proud to be a member of this group.
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Well, my new (2005) shock came in the mail the other day and I'm gonna try to get in on this coming weekend. The only problem is that since this is off of a 2005 it is the new style, (unlike the one off of my 99. I do not know where to put the extra hose, (not the one for the air).
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=140205846537&_trksid=p3907.m32 Ive been watching this here eBay auction. Due to a death in the family, I missed the last couple days on it, but hell, 450 bux for a shock with 85,000 miles on it? Dang!! I can get a brand new one for 389!!!
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After I got bike running, now the rear shock bleeds off over a 24 hr. period. I went thru almost the same thing before and ended up buying the compressor because I couldn't find any air leaks due to the small volume or air involved. Any ideas on how to find the air leak with such a small amount of air?? Don H. -
Anyone have a blown rear shock off a 2nd gen laying around? I'd like to get some measurements off of it. I'm trying to replace the weak rear air shock with a standard spring and hydraulic shock.
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MY OLD 93 HAS OVER A 100,000 MILES ON IT NOW AND I REPLACED THE FRONT FORK SPRINGS LAST SPRING,SO THIS WINTER I THOUGHT I WOULD WORK ON THE REAR SUSPENSION,SO I GOT A REAR LINKAGE ARM FROM EBAY AND IM GOING TO REPLACE THE BUSHINGS, AND IM THINKING ABOUT REPLACING THE REAR SHOCK WITH A NEW Progressive Suspension 420 Series Shocks, Aluminum. HAS ANYONE ON HERE TRYED ONE OF THESE SHOCKS BEFORE. THEY ARE KINDA HIGH PRICE AND WOULD LIKE SOME INPUT BEFORE I GET ONE,THANKS -
Well I guess I really am joining the club. After my ride from Brisbane on arriving home in Perth I noticed a small leak coming from the rear shock. Not knowing what I now know (thanks to all here) my mechanic sent it off to Sydney to be rebuilt. After a long silence I called him up - wots the go bro? Can't be rebuilt! Damn. Anyway I saved my mechanic a long time searching for a replacement after reading "Spears" troubles in Australia replacing his and immediately ordered one from FlatoutMotorcycles. Hopefully it will arrive here next week and my bike will be back on the road in time for Xmas. Summer holidays here.
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Just wondering if anyone has ever replaced the rear air shock on a RSV? I must have damaged mine putting air in today as it now leaks out. It's amazing how fast it will fill up from 20 to 100 lbs of air. Also, any ideas where to get one at a reasonable cost? Thanks
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I have a dilemma with my rear shock. The bike was fine and then I installed the leveling links. After about a month or so the shock began to groan. I read all the posts about how the shock shaft needs to be oiled by laying the bike over or adding oil through the shrader valve. I did both . No luck so I took it in and they removed the shock and found it is fine and holding air. They found the needle bearing were worn so they replaced them under warranty. Here come the problem. They but the regular links back on the bike and the groaning went away. They rode it for several miles and all was fine. They reinstalled my leveling links and the groaning returned. They then removed the leveling links and replaced them with the standard links and the groaning shock went away again. :confused24: Anyone else have this issue and could the links be putting the needle bearings under some kind of stress or bind that causes them to prematurely wear out. Moakster
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On the show "How it is made" the other night they were showing the manufacturing of a large marine compass. I missed the first part of the show but saw how they mounted the device within a base on four mini shock absorbers. They appeared to be about the diameter of a pencil and probably about 1" long, hard to judge the scale. I am working on something and could use 3-4 of them. Anyone having anything like that or know where I might find something like that. I'm guessing someone in the marine repair/sales. I'm inland and am not into boating so I have no contacts in that field. Would appreciate any help anyone can offer. Thanks
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I've been working on my engine for the last few months and it looks really nice now. However, since I have the engine out of the frame there are a lot of other things I have been doing as well. Now before I put the engine back in, I decided to install zerk fittings in the shock linkage of this '89 Venture Royale. The linkage design was changed between for the '88 model year. There are two shafts, one joins the front linkage to the rear linkage, the second joins the shock to the front linkage. It took a lot of force to drive the first shaft out and it looks like it had never been lubed. rust pits in the shaft, dust seals disintigrating, etc. Then I tried to remove shaft 2. I used the bolt that threads into it , loosened it about 1/4 inch and used a drift punch against tthe head with a 16 oz. hammer. No movement. I soaked it with WD-40 and bought a 10X100 bolt (twice as long as the original), threaded it fully into the end of shaft 2 and hit it as hard as I could with a 24 oz. hammer about 30 times:starz:. It moved enough to get a feeler gauge under the head of the shaft. I think I'm going to have to remove the monoshock and use a hydraulic press to remove this shaft. In case there are other problems, does anyone know if the 83-87 version of the linkage will work on the 88-93s? I can get a complete linkage addembly from PinWall for about $40 plus shipping and I think I will just to get the shaft and bushings. The eight bushings run about between $14 and $18 each and the shafts are $21 each from MRCycles. Any advise on how to get the shaft out would be appreciated since I don't have a hydraulic press. I can't get to the front end of the linkage while it is still on the shock. I'll get pictures of the engine up soon, with the repaired paint and polished side cases!
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Brought my bike home last night after having the new rear shock installed, a new rear Avon Venom X and the regular 28k mile service, which included Carb Sync and steering bolt tightening. I didn't realize how bad my bike has been handling. :crying:The shock must have been going bad for awhile. Also, recently I had noticed a little shake of the bars and slow speed handling degradation, so I asked them after the service if the steering head bolt was loose and it was by almost a half turn. I feel like I'm riding a new bike again. Haven't checked to see what air is in the shock yet or the tire pressure, but plan to do that tonight. But just how it is right now is a HUGE improvement. I just can't believe it is such a difference:confused24: I can't wait to get out and ride Friday Morning. Its amazing how fabulous these bikes are! when everything is up to par. -
Ok. It finally happened. My rear shock has left a 8 inch circle of light oil stain on the garage floor. Even can see a drop hanging on the bottom of the shock. Here are my questions: 1) Does this mean my shock has failed? 2) Can it still be ridden? 1 up? 2 up? 3) Is replacement covered under warranty? Thanks to all those that can help answer my questions. Jay
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Thinking about putting a Progressive rear shock on the ride. I already have changed the front springs to Progressive, what a difference!!!! How hard is removing the rear shock?? The front end was cake, is the back as easy??:confused24:
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Ok so i have the 99 rsv and have never hand problem in last 3 years with this i need some help. up to about 6 months ago the passanger was 5' 8 and about 105 lbs. But when i got the "you work to much and when you are not working you are riding and i just dont enjoy that anymore." I upgraded to a new passanger. she is 5' 10 and well about 150 lbs i would say. well this is cause the bike to sit very low and in a on ramp or off ramp turn i am scraping pipes. has anyone had this problem and if so how did you fix it. I added a little more air to the back shock but that did not seem to help to to much and dont want to push adding to much more there. do i jsut need to go to an after market air shock or any other ideas?
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Understanding your RSV Rear Shock Many of you have seen my old RSV shock that I had cut open to expose what the inside of the shock looks like. Well I have gone to the next step. I just had my Works shock rebuilt and this is when I realized these shocks don’t last forever and rebuildable shocks need to have the oil changed out every 35,000 miles or so because the oil wears out and get contaminated with the nitrogen. Once I understood this, I felt that the oil in the RSV should probably be changed out as well. So when I went to pick it up I took this cut-up and exposed shock to let my professional shock rebuilder look at this shock and give me his evaluation of what makes this shock work and what is the purpose each section of the shock. And I was a bit surprised but after he looked at it and we talked it over, everything made perfect sense. So here it goes….where you can refer to the diagram in the attached file: You can see that I have identified four basic parts of the shock: Outer Body Inner Sealed Shock Valving The Outer Shock Seal Polished RamItem 1. is the upper black part of the shock just above the rubber boot. This is nothing more than an air chamber, where in conjunction with (4.) the polished ram and (3.) the seal, allows air to be pumped in via the hose and Schrader valve to control shock preload and bike ride height. Item 2. Is where the real shock valving resides and is completely press sealed like what you would see on one of your Monroe shocks. I assume this contains oil and maybe a nitrogen charge, but the latter is only a wild guess. Item 3. is the outer body seal that keeps air in the upper chamber. There is a metal bushing just above it to keep the upper body in alignment with Item 4. the polished ram. Item 4. Is the polished ram that resides under the rubber boot. Even though this piece is polished, it is not hardened and is susceptible to scratches, mostly from a dry bushing. Another purpose of this piece is to act as a reservoir for 7.5 oz of oil that stays inside the shock to lubricate the outer shock seal and ram. The reason I know the amount of oil, is that I took out the Schrader valve, hung the shock upside down and let it drain for 5 days until it stopped. With the shock upright, the oil will stay in this cup pretty much undisturbed, with the exception there is a 1/8” hole about ¾” down from the top of the ram. I can only assume that as the bike moves from side to side some oil will come out this hole, run down the ram and help lube the bushing and seal. Now this also means that if the bike is laid on its side, most of the oil will run out and down the outside of the ram. I can only suspect when this happens, a shock will start leaking (seeping) oil out the bottom if there are scratches in the ram. But if the ram is not scratched and the seal is holding this will not present a problem with the shock action. This will only help lube the bushing and seal. In fact in those cases where the shock is making that squeaking or groaning noise, it is doing this because the seal is dry and really needs to be lubricated. At this point, I would suggest that you could lay the bike down on it’s side and let some of the oil run down the side and I’ll bet your groaning shock will quiet down. Also, I would have no problem taking the schrader valve out and squirting in a couple ounces of 20 weight fork oil down the hose to help lube the ram. You will also note that this shock has a full-length spring but with a spring rate of only 839 lbs/in and the shock travel is 1.77 inches. Now my conclusion on this shock is that you could cut the upper body and the polished ram completely off and you would still have a fully functional shock……but without any preload or ride height adjustability. And it’s not a bad design for what it does for the average rider. But if we are taxing the load limit of the shock beyond 839 lbs. or the maximum load limit of the bike of 419 lbs., we should be looking for a heavier shock. The spring rate on my Works shock is 1,200 lbs. Finally, if the shock is leaking oil, the ram is scratched and maybe the seal torn so it won’t hold air much longer anyway so it should be replaced under warranty. If it’s groaning it just needs some internal lubrication, where I have given you a couple of options to satisfy this. There you have it, Rick Shock Diagram.PDF
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