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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    ummmmmm... check your "mute" button......
  2. SilvrT
    found this...may help... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7841&highlight=side+stand+switch
  3. SilvrT
    As per my "signature", you can always revert to that or even duct tape! Welcome....soon you will be calling this place your "home"!
  4. SilvrT
    Been a long time since I did that on my '85 but I do recall a few "choice" words passing over my lips. Seems I recall that the front comes out on the right side and the rear on the left? I'd taken it to a shop originally but they did a sloppy job and things were leaking. got tired of argueing with the guy and decided to re-do it myself. I discovered that they only replaced the front gasket and re-used the old one on the rear because (as I later found out) they couldn't get a new rear one that day. IMO, they should have gotten the parts before they took things apart. Lesson learned.... if ya can do it yourself (or have someone you know who can do it) then stay away from the rip-off shops!
  5. SilvrT
    And even more depressed when ya can't ride it coz the weather is so crappy!
  6. SilvrT
    I'd suggest that some of those tabs are already "shattered" somewhat after 20 yrs of vibration. I've also found that if anyone has removed any of the screws in the past, that they sometimes over tighten them when re-installing, thereby "squishing" the plastic which of course causes it to shatter and fall apart the next time you remove the screw.
  7. SilvrT
    Cathodes and Anodes .... "greek" to me...
  8. SilvrT
    hmmmmmm.... I just jump on my bike and go for a ride...all the water droplets blow off! The faster you go, the quicker it dries!
  9. SilvrT
    I used Autosol (comes in a tube..it's a creamy compound). For most of the work, I mounted a polishing/buffing wheel on my drill, cynched my drill into my workmate, applied some of the polish and buffed it out. It takes a bit of "work" and can get a bit messy but sure does a good job. Comes out almost like chrome.
  10. SilvrT
    my '85 was like that and so is my '87. I never worry about it coz neither one of them failed to start.
  11. SilvrT
    I would suspect that is probably the case as well.
  12. SilvrT
    Thanks M8
  13. SilvrT
    Did a search on the net...can't find valve stems that are 45 or 90 degree other than heavy truck ones. Where do you get these?
  14. SilvrT
    BTW, have a safe and enjoyable trip!
  15. SilvrT
    ummmmm.... GAS ???
  16. SilvrT
    sure goes to show what a person can do with their time when they have lots of it and MONEY. dang... why NOT me? (I'da used a Freightliner!!!)
  17. SilvrT
    From my limited knowledge of oils (having worked in the auto servicing industry many years ago), a multi-grade oil such as 10w30 is a good "all around" oil for those climates where neither the heat in summer or the cold in winter is too extreme and the operation of the vehicle is "average". If you're in climates where the temps vary considerably, you'd either change your oil more often, using a lighter grade (ie 5w30 in colder tempts) or a heavier grade (ie 20w40 in hotter temps) -OR- use a grade such as 5w40 or 20w50. Same would apply if you're working your engine much harder than "average" or, less than average. This is a kindof a "rule of thumb".
  18. SilvrT
    That's it then... I'm saving my beer cans for when I get a 2nd gen (if ever I do!)
  19. SilvrT

    Live and learn

    SilvrT replied to a topic in Lessons Learned

    All I can say is.... I thought these things had a 5 year warranty? oh, so we're supposed to pay for a factory defect?
  20. SilvrT
    I might add that windex and other such products are not good because something in those products (ammonia I think) causes etching on such things as m/c windshields, laptop screens, etc. A quote from Windex web page... "LEXAN® Windows For all of you airplane and helicopter owners, we're sorry, but Windex® is not formulated to clean your LEXAN® windows." I believe m/c windshields are made from Lexan or a similar product.
  21. SilvrT
    The "wet rag" method is a good idea...I think I'll put one into a zip-lock bag and carry it around with me. On the other hand, I've found that a concentrated spraying on them bugs with the lemon pledge and letting that sit for a minute or so works the same way as the "wet rag" method. As I mentioned, I never have scratching issues and my last bike's windshield was on for 5 years and when I sold it, it looked just as good as new. Having the wet rag just adds to making the process better. Dang, I never even looked for Pledge "wipies"...gotta check that out!
  22. SilvrT
    I have used Meguire's clear plastic polishing compound & scratch remover before and with a lot of elbow grease, it does work on "minor" scratches. Dunno what others use to clean their windshields but I've been using good old Lemon Pledge and a soft cloth for years....windshield always looks clear. Gets the bugs off real easy and leaves no smears.
  23. SilvrT
    Get some "deer whistles" ... they seem to work for me... never seen a deer yet let alone hit one. Gotta warn ya tho... they don't work on bears!! LOL
  24. SilvrT
    those people are commonly referred to as "politicians"
  25. SilvrT
    That's great information. Seems it's what many of us do without realizing it. Nice to have it laid down in writing...sort of solidifys things. I'd like to add... when passing on a 2 lane...I tend to stay in the right groove of the passing lane. That way, I remain in the side view mirror of the person I'm passing longer and, if I have to get back into my own lane quickly, I have less distance to do so. (that method may be right or it may be wrong but that's what I do)
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