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SilvrT

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  1. SilvrT
    All I get from that link is a login screen. How about copying the info and pasting it into here?
  2. SilvrT
    Gary, did you get your's south of the border or up here somewhere?
  3. SilvrT
    There are several posts on this topic, here's one I found for ya... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10781&highlight=tabs I did a search for "tabs". Plastex (plastic weld) seems to be the preferred repair material. Whatever you use, make sure it's for ABS plastic.
  4. SilvrT
    1/2 inch drive sockets/ratchets, etc are generally too big for working on motorcycles and 3/8 or 1/4 drive are much better. usually a good idea to stick with one "common" size and 3/8 would be my suggestion. As for the torque wrench, I rarely use one and would probably only use one if I was tightening down the heads or bearings such as main bearings or con rod bearings because proper torque is critical there. (all IMHO)
  5. SilvrT
    And once you polish them out, they will look as good as any "professional" job. I have polished out most of my parts and the finish is glass smooth and produces a mirror image. I might also mention that I did not get any runs or dust particles either. The only downfall to using "spray cans", IMHO, is that the area being sprayed cannot be too large. Further, you have to be quite quick and your spray stroke has to be considerably more accurate to get an even coat that properly overlaps on each spray stroke due to the quite small spray pattern of a spray bomb. The size of some of the components on our bikes I would say, is borderline on being too large for using spray bombs. Many spray bombs nowadays have a much better spray nozzle than years ago. These new style nozzles give a much better and wider spray pattern.
  6. SilvrT
    OK, you are entitled to that. Maybe there's some mis-understanding here... I dunno... I apologize if I caused it but you (and anyone else) is entitled to disagree. I did not say that "spray cans are the same as body shops use"..what I did say is "the paint is the same paint as that used in spray gun applications on any vehicle". Mortch said "Do not use a spray can". I then asked "and why not?" and went on to explain further what exactly it was that I used. I still haven't gotten a clear answer to that. Mortch did not say using spray cans is bad but he did imply that if you use them, you're really not serious. You then disagreed with me and stated that "paint cans are either lacquer or enamel". Now, from my perspective here, I'm wondering who's giving the "blanket statements"? What I do know is that I used a spray bomb. It was filled (they come pre-charged and there are machines for filling them with whatever kind of paint you want)... it was filled with automotive "base coat" color used in 2 stage paint...exactly the same paint used in auto paint shops. I stood there and watched as they mixed it and filled the spray cans. They used the exact same mixing formula from the exact same mixing machine they use to mix all the automotive colors that they distribute to the paint shops. Base color requires no special hardeners added to it just prior to spraying and that's why it can be put into a spray bomb otherwise, it would turn to gell and eventually harden inside the can. What more can I say??? As far as disagreeing with anyone or thing, I would have to say that I disagree with both Mortch and your statements about not using "spray cans" and neither of you have offered up any solid reason why not. I am interested in knowing "why not" though and am not opposed to changing my mind about it if anyone cares to convince me "why not". A few of the members have actually seen my bike since I painted it and were quite impressed and could not believe that I used "spray bombs". Now, either their comments were genuine or they are hypocrits and were just saying those things to appease me. I prefer to believe that they were genuine.
  7. SilvrT
    My '85 had one there... the '87 doesn't... and I almost didn't buy it because of that!!!
  8. SilvrT
    Nathan, my bike was the 2-tone "blond" color... mello yellow and gold as I call it. I liked the color and probably wouldn't have repainted it just for the sake of painting it but I had a lot of cracks in the bottom and edges of the trunk and the side bags. There was also some scraping on the edge of the fairing where the previous owner dropped it. I needed to fix all of that and so I decided I might as well re-paint the whole thing. The original paint on these bikes is of such high quality that, if taken care of, will last forever.
  9. SilvrT
    Either you didn't fully read my post or I didn't clarify it...one or the other so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt. The paint in the spray can was "charged" by an auto paint supply store with base coat color (from 2 stage paint) used in all auto body paint shops. The clear coat is much similar to 2 stage clear except that it is 1 stage. Check the website for this product... Clear #1- UV Resistant High Gloss Clear Coat http://www.u-pol.com/countries/us/navigate.htm Yes, "Lacquer thinner melts plastic" but if you use a good primer over the plastic and let it dry thoroughly, the lacquer won't affect the plastic (unless of course you lay it on so thinned out and with heavy coats that it's running all over). In fact, I used a lacquer based primer which didn't cause any issues with the ABS material. However, I didn't sand all of the original paint right off down to the bare plastic either...just a few spots on edges and where I did repairs. "Enamel needs baked to get hard"... that's only true if it's not acrylic enamel. While the paint I used is neither enamel nor acrylic enamel nor lacquer, it was dry to the touch in 15 minutes and could be taped within 1 hour. The clear on the other hand, while dry to the touch quite quickly, required a few weeks to fully cure to the point that I could safely power polish it. The process of "baking" that shops use, in my opinion, is not a requirement but rather, it speeds up the curing process so that when delivered to the customer, it's already "cured" and there's no special care required by them. I painted many vehicles with acrylic enamel and not once did I "bake" it, yet within a few hours after spraying it, it was as hard as nails. I've also painted with 2 stage and the clear coat requires a "hardener" which after spraying requires a bit of time to cure...."baking" speeds up this process. These "spray bombs" I used required no special breathing apparatus, nor did I feel any ill effects from their use; however, high-volume spraying with regular spray equipment definately requires special breathing equipment because that amount of exposure is definately harmful and possibly even deadly. Well, that's my "eggspeareance" anyway...take it or leave it.
  10. SilvrT
    I remeber now... the cover for the adjustable passenger backrest. total parts = 21
  11. SilvrT
    Not that difficult... I removed both the top and bottom bands and got them back on without any trouble at all. and why not? Mine looks great and the paint is the same paint as that used in spray gun applications on any vehicle. Granted, it takes a lot more practise and patience to get a good, even coat and the clear I used required sanding with 1200 wet/dry and a good polishing to get that "wet glass" look.
  12. SilvrT
    to get all those parts "separate", there's a lot of other pieces that have to be removed.
  13. SilvrT
    Parts to be painted... Fairing left Fairing right fairing connector (underneath headlight) fairing left lower fairing right lower fairing lowers front connector air dam (if you have one) headlight shroud battery cover gas tank lid left side cover right side cover travel trunk top travel trunk bottom front fender (following is '86 and newer) left side bag lid left side bag right side bag lid right side bag lic plate bracket/mud guard cover that's 20...what'd I miss??
  14. SilvrT
    I did mine with spray bombs which were filled by an auto paint supplier. The "color coat" is the same as 2-stage. They also had ready-made clear coat in spray bombs. The color coat spray cans were about $21 each and the clear was about $23 each. If I were to add up all the paint, primers, sand paper, etc, etc.. I'd guess about $400 in materials. Now realizing all the "fuss and bother" involved in just the painting process, I should have spent the extra $300 and taken the parts to a shop. On the other hand, it was a bit of a "labour of love" coz I can at least say "I did it all --- my way!" LOL Yes, the labour hours involved is a LOT!!! Hindsight; however, is 20/20 and if I were to do it "all" again, I wouldn't use the spray bombs for the clear but rather, proper spraying equipment. Fortunately, I have experience with all of this... so many folks do not.
  15. SilvrT
    You may get a shock... body shops here wanted around $700 and that was with me delivering the parts prepped for paint already. I wound up doing it myself.
  16. SilvrT
    I don't have those on mine... when did they start using them and are they really necessary?
  17. SilvrT
    I have a simple solution... refuel at each smoke break! (appx 1 hr riding)
  18. SilvrT
    That's all I've used for cleaning my w/s for several years. I also use it for polishing the plastic around the dash, etc. As for rain repelling...can't say... hardly ever ride in the rain LOL
  19. SilvrT
    I don't ride in the rain... no need for anything! LOL
  20. SilvrT
    The temps there are what? 105 - 110 ? that converts to 40 - 43 Celcius. We've had those kind of temps in parts of this province and I've ridden my '85 in them. Where the overheating concern (at least for me) was when riding in close to 40 degree weather in stop & go traffic. While my '85 ran close to or at the red line on the temp gauge, it never actually overheated to the point where it boiled over or blew a hose, etc. I was always a bit concerned then, tho, that the fan did not provide sufficient air flow to keep the temp at an acceptable level. Riding down the highway at those temps provided constant air flow through the rad and overheating then was never a concern once I got used to the fact that the temp gauge generally ran at a higher point most of the time.
  21. SilvrT
    LOL... I forget that I am the type of person who has an overly "logical approach" mind and everything to me has to "make sense" (according to me) in order for me to comprehend it. LOL I'll be looking on mine for those fuses...
  22. SilvrT
    here it is... NAPA # 156 thermostat
  23. SilvrT
    My '85 was like that most of the time (I had it for 5 years). There's a few things that might help... change the coolant out and put in something like "Water Wetter" http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp and change the thermostat. There's an "auto" thermostat that seems to work better (and is much cheaper than Yamaha's). I've got this in my '87 and it hasn't gotten up to that "zone" on the gauge yet and it sometimes did before I changed the thermostat. Now, unfortunately, I've forgotten what that part number is but I'll find it for you.
  24. SilvrT
    A common occurrence in this day and age. If there's anything we all learn as "bikers", that is the "art" of defensive driving. Anticipating what the other driver might do BEFORE they do it... watching for the "unexpected"... and the list goes on... A while back there was a thread that had a lot of discussion about driving "distractions" and more specifically, using a cell phone while driving. Here's a prime example why NOT to drive, even in a parking lot (one of the worst places) while talking on the cell. Thankfully Nathan came out of this one unscathed and much wiser. Ride safe and ride wise Nathan... it's good to have you aboard this site and up on your two wheels with a big smile on your face!
  25. SilvrT
    Is that where all the little marks on the handlebars came from?
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