RedRider

There is no way I am clicking on a link from Anonymous. RR

I would not do this. There is no reason to 'wash out' the rear drive. There are tapered bearings in there that require the appropriate lube to protect the sliding action of the roller ends on the ribs. Also, the gears are spiral bevel which also have a small sliding action on the teeth. Thinning the lube will prevent the required hydrodynamic film thickness to keep the interacting components separated. Just change the lube at the recommended intervals and ride it like you stole it. RR

You are on track to have this resolved. It sounds like a fuel issue with the jets clogged up. A bit of Seafoam in fresh gas may take care of it. If not, check the fuel filter and fuel pump. Pulling and cleaning the carbs should be the last thing to try (since it is the most difficult/involved). Welcome back to the US. Thank you for your service. RR

Keep an eye open and it can be had for as little as $15. I renew mine every 3 years or so. RR

Easiest trip planning software is Microsoft Streets and Trips. After planning, you can export it as a GPX file to the Garmin software Basecamp. Basecamp allows you to modify and/or load it into your GPS. Plan each day as a separate file/route and store it in your GPS this way. Each day, load that day's route and you are good to go. As an alternative, if you are just interested in getting from one location to another (without micro-planning the roads being used), just load the ending point of each day in the GPS. At the start of the day, set it as the destination and follow along. RR

With the JIS screws on the old metrics I would remove them and replace with caphead screws. Never had a problem again. Even with the correct JIS screwdriver, they were just soft metal screws. RR

I have done a few IB rides and a few rallies. You may want to look into some of the long distance rallies. Very fun. Will be doing ButtLite7 in July. 6 1000+ mile days back to back (if it all goes right). Can't wait. http://www.teamstrange.com/2014/butt_lite/index.htm RR

Assuming it is the same as my 2000, the nuts aren't steel. Magnet won't help. As mentioned above, replace with nylon wing nuts. RR

Aircraft type? Please advise part number and manufacturer. My pump is working fine so I don't want to replace the brushes/points. However, I have a long ride planned for next year and would like to have an on-the-road fix if it dies. RR

http://www.warmnsafe.com the makers of the Heat-Troller. RR

I have a GoPro silver and it works great. Took several hours of video riding in Alaska last summer (OK, summer before last). It never missed a beat.

Please do NOT post pictures of said removed gall bladder. RR PS. Heal fast. Hope you're feeling better.

And, if you have room in your shop, spend the extra money and get a HF platform lift. $300 with coupon (Rider magazine and elsewhere). They are great. RR

Yellow. Spend the extra money. It is much more sturdy. RR

Congratulations. Well done. RR

Go with what works for you. I find my clutch doesn't behave as well with synthetic oil as with the dino stuff. Do not and have not ever had the dreaded clutch whine. The clutch just doesn't seem to hook up as well with the synthetic. The clutches are designed by the Yamaha engineers to be used with petroleum (dino) motorcycle oil (does not have the friction modifiers that are in standard Energy Conserving car oil). If the Maxum oil makes your engine and clutch smoother and quieter, that is fantastic that you found the combination. Many others don't ever find this match. Thanks for letting us know about this new lube. I was not aware of this brand previously. Although, at the cost, I will stick with the white jug from Walmart.

2008 Suzuki GXR1000 for sale. Gently used on Saturday poker runs and rides through the country. Only 450 miles. Will need new tires, chain, and sprockets. Priced for a quick sale. RR

Only if not aimed correctly. Oh, BTW, this is a 4 year old thread. Just sayin' RR

+1 on the Fuzeblok. Really nice product with the relay built in. Switched vs. non-switched circuitry is determined by where you place the fuse. Was developed by the late Curt Gran. Made in the USA (at least it was when Curt was making them - assume it still is). http://fuzeblocks.com/ RR

Brad, Hope your brother pulls through OK. Not good getting hit in the rear end with a front end loader. It isn't designed for that. Prayers being sent. RR

Reading comprehension is hard. You did say in the original thread you were working with 32mm carbs. I looked right past that. Good luck with the upgrade. RR

Are you witnessing a leak? While they may look cracked, the carb boots are multilayered. Mine look horrible but are completely sealed. If you actually have a leak, I would replace with new, not used. RR

Not over Craigslist. CL is a cash only business. There are no protections like with eBay.

BB, That is good to know. When I go on a ride with my bride, we top out about 400 lbs (265 me, about 135 soaking wet for the wife). She brings enough stuff that we generally pull the trailer instead of pack the saddle bags / trunk. RR

I'm kind of a big guy. HD for me - set up for about 320 lbs (that is with full pack and aux fuel - not all me). RR