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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. I used the cheap CustomCruiser HID. Once you put a time delay or switch in the circuit so the HID isn't lit when you start the bike, it works great. Otherwise, it burns out. Do a search on here and there are several manufacturers. RR
  2. Good luck Don. Make sure to check your gas receipts for location, date, and time. If the pay-at-the-pump receipt does not have this info, go inside to get it from the attendant. RR
  3. If I don't feel like waving - I take the BMW. RR
  4. +1 on replacing your lines with SS. Your current lines are 12+ years old. On page 7-6 of the owners manual it calls for brake and clutch hoses to be replaced every 4 years. Mind you, it also calls for the seals in the master cylinders, clutch slave, and calipers to be replaced every two years. I don't think so. One simple thing I might suggest, lube the pivot point of your brake lever. If you haven't done this before, you likely will be surprised at the results. Easy and cheap. Just like 1st Gen owners. RR
  5. If you have an air compressor, the vacuum bleeder from HF actually works really well. RR
  6. My CB antenna seems to be messed up. Haven't taken it apart yet, but will soon. Are there any good aftermarket antennas to replace this with? Sorry, too lazy to do the search as I'm sure the info is already in here somewhere. Thanks, RR
  7. I have updated my headlight and aux lights to HID and am constantly concerned about one of them burning out. Any time I am behind a PU truck or a minivan, I check for the triangle of light from all 3 HIDs. Haven't had any difficulties in several years. But to answer you actual question, there is no indicator for either headlight or brakelight failure. RR
  8. What GPS are you using? If it's a Zumo, you can bluetooth your phone thru that and use your wired system. RR
  9. I don't think I saved the old bearings when I changed mine out last year. I recall they were FAG, although, I wouldn't bet the rent on my memory. They are a sealed, pre-lubed bearing. Your dealer should be able to get them next day. $20 ea. on BikeBandit. RR
  10. They should be torqued to a specific torque. 23 Nm or 17 ftlb. You can pinch the rubber dampers between the handlebars and the fairing and they will stay. I suggest you have a second (and maybe a third) person to help hold everything in place as you tighten the clamps down. Without the rubber dampers, the fairing flexes and will likely crack. To install the risers is not hard, just cumbersome. It helps a lot (I'm 6'4"). Also, the risers will hit the ignition cover. I just cut the cover to create the clearance needed. It is just plastic. But then, I don't really show off my bike unless it just had its annual bath. RR
  11. Don, I did 1015 miles on a 24 hour rental of a Road Glide Ultra last year. Yes, the dealer was quite surprised. However, at 70 to 75 mph, I was getting about 44 mpg IIRC. If you have an Airhawk, take it with you. You will need it for your tailbone (assuming you still have the stock seat). You may want to also take some beads and a sheepskin. I used all 3 at different times on my run. I was pleasantly surprised with the road manners of the HD. Handled nicely and had plenty of power. The 6th gear only seems to come into play after about 70 mph. It causes vibrations below that. Don't think I would ever own one though. But, we shall see. Lots of riding years left - I hope. I did not turn in any paperwork for this Harley run. Got enough certificates on the wall. RR
  12. Yup. He headed out for parts unknown. Freebird had a thread about it a couple of months ago. RR
  13. Are you riding with your Harley (sorry Don) friends and stopping at every bar in town? A headache can come from that. RR
  14. It will help if you fill out in your profile the type of bike you are asking about. 1st Gen have on board air adjustment. 2nd gen is manual. RR
  15. Don, I might suggest you also do a BunBurner 1500. It is 1500 in 36 hours. It is good for two things. First, if you complete the SS1k, it is a piece of cake to do the BB1500. Second, if you find you can't safely complete the SS1k, it is still a goal to complete an Iron Butt ride. Any way about it, go onto the Iron Butt Association website and read the Archive of Wisdom. http://www.ironbutt.com/tech/aow.cfm Have a great time. RR
  16. RedRider

    Help!!!

    Yup. I guess I won't be seeing you this evening. Have a great weekend. RR
  17. Also, if you happen to be in the market for a new helmet, J&M sells helmets with their headsets installed. RR
  18. You will need to let us know what type of helmet you have. Beanie 3/4 Modular (flip face) Full face RR
  19. RedRider

    Help!!!

    Flyinfool and I are prepared for this evening. Left Trader a message on his (presumed) cell phone. Haven't heard anything yet. My guess is he is enjoying the scenery of the UP about now. RR
  20. RedRider

    Help!!!

    If you can get to Fond du Lac (60 miles south of GB) tonight along with FlyinFool and his stator, we can get it in the shop and swapped out. Let me know. No real plans for the evening but will need to clean the shop a bit to get it in there. RR
  21. Look in the vendor area at the BaggerShield. They are a good supporter of this site and get really good reviews on their product. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80541 No relationship - just like the reviews (no, I don't have one. Still run the OEM stock windshield). RR
  22. Here you go. Armor in all the right places. Can be worn as an overpant with shorts/underwear underneath. http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/closeouts/mesh_jackets_and_pants/first_gear/2011_mesh_tex_motorcycle_pants.html Be careful of dehydration. When taking long trips (multiday) I wear the non-mesh overpants. RR
  23. The shaft needs to come out periodically to lube the splines going into the U-joint. Use Honda Moly60. For those who haven't done this yet, there is a small rubber plug on the swingarm over the U-joint. Remove this plug and use a coat hanger or something similar to center the U-joint for insertion of the drive shaft. Be patient, it will go in. Make sure the drive shaft is in the U-joint and not next to it. Most of us have learned this the hard way. RR
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