RedRider

This is a nicely done diagram. The wiring as is should work fine. However, a couple of thoughts here. 1) The pull from any of these loads is either proportional to voltage (heated vest / grips) or very small (GPS / Radar detector). None will affect the starting circuit nor will the starting circuit affect any of them. 2) Each '+' line coming off the distribution block should be fused. 3) Wiring would be simplified by using a fuseblock (FZ-1 from fuzeblocks.com is the one I like). There are several others out there. 4) Per #1 above, it really doesn't need a time delay relay. A standard relay will do the same thing. The reason we put the time delay relay in the HID circuit is that an HID pulls about 120 watts (approx 10A at 12V) when it fires up. Also, the circuitry in the HID igniter has internal protection that shuts it off when the feed voltage drops below a certain level (ie. battery voltage drops to far). The high current draw required to start the bike will sometimes pull the battery voltage down below this threshold level and kill the light. Sometimes it will reignite, sometimes not. HIDs do not like to have their power cycled without cooling off between starts. IIRC on first gens the headlight power is interrupted when the starting circuit is initiated (starter button pushed). If so, this will also quickly cycle the power on the HID. Again - bad. Bottom line - Your wiring should work (add the fuses). Time delay isn't really necessary. RR

Stopped by ScooterBob's the other night and chatted with him. He is doing well. Just spending most of his time playing with the old engines and running around to 'old engine' events. His Venture was sitting in the garage with a rather thick layer of dust on it. Ridicule ensued. He picked up a trailer that he is redoing. It will house the engines he is taking to shows along with some drop down bunks. It will be really nice when completed. Next time I see him I will make sure he submits his annual VR tithe and gets back up to date. RR

I would take the battery into an auto parts store and have it load tested. You may have toasted the battery when the ignition was left on. RR

Problem with your setup is you need a restriction in the line. Not really sure of exactly what hardware you need to do that, but someone else will jump in here. I purchased rather than made my manometer.

A plaque with a broken second gear. Make it an annual award (except that will make a recipient have to come back the next year). RR

Originally designed to prevent slash and grab theft. This should deter most. Several sizes available. http://www.rei.com/product/709207/pacsafe-55-security-web-small RR

Spike13 stopped in this afternoon and we installed a 10 second on-delay relay for his HID. We first tested the relay with an old battery since I wasn't exactly sure how it worked and the wiring diagram wasn't the clearest. The delay relay was a 5 pin relay while the currently installed wiring harness relay was a 4 pin relay. After testing, we concluded the relay should plug right into the 4 pin socket and work. And...... indeed it did. Turn on the key, and start counting. 10 seconds later, the light comes on. Plenty of time to get the bike started. Worked like a champ. This is the time delay relay we used. http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?HID_Time_Delay_Relay-pid602.html

While working on my honey do list today, I started taking out a few bushes that had overgrown or died. Hooked up the first with a chain to my truck and pulled it out. About that time, my neighbor, who was doing some stone landscaping, came over with a better tool to remove said foliage. It made quick work of 7 or 8 rather large bushes. It sure is nice to have neighbors with cool tools. Unfortunately, he did not let me drive it (nor did I ask to).

Ride down Sunday or Monday and we can take a look at this if you would like. Flyinfool? You up for a ride up here to lend a hand? Between the three of us, we could really screw James' bike up. RR

Yup, fuel pump. It's fairly easy to change. Helps if you have small hands as it is packed in there pretty tightly. Remove the left battery cover and you will see it in there. It is rubber mounted and the size of a large pill bottle. RR

Ship it??? You're 170 miles apart. Time for a good ol' fashion imprompto M&E.

A neighbor with survival food is like a neighbor with a pickup. You get all the convenience with none of the hassle. Unless his arsenal is bigger than yours. Then, you will starve. RR

Miles, At some point, I need to ride somewhere to meet up with you. However, Wisconsin is just too close. I will follow this thread and join in when I can. East of the Rockies, north of the Gulf can be reached in a day. RR

List price on this OEM rotor is $300. They were giving you 10% off. Bikebandit.com has the OEM rotor for $218. 25% off it appears. OEM part are normally more expensive than 3rd party aftermarket parts. For future reference, you may want to check prices on the Internet and then ask the dealer if they can get close. My experience is that they can often get within 5 or 10% (sometimes even beating Internet price). If they can't? Then, no hard feelings. RR

But, did he have it in stock? RR

Fixed the typo. RR

1625 miles from Fond du Lac, WI to ..... San Antonio, TX. April, 2010. RR

Welcome to VR.org. PCW is a stronger bellville spring like what is currently installed. It will help but not cure if you are heavy handed on the throttle. Skydoc17 is also a stronger spring with a design similar to OEM. Again, it will help but not cure if you are heavy handed. The Barnett changes out the pressure plate and provides multiple coil springs instead of the bellville style spring. It will cure the problem. Costs more, but you will no longer need to concern yourself with the clutch. RR PS. Skydoc is VERY knowledgeable about these bikes. Take his input as gospel. My input? Not so much.

Thank you for the prompt reply. I may have a set of 1" mount pegs in my parts stash. RR

My son picked up the St. Jude Venture last night (thank you Ken). On his way home, he noticed it would be nice to have highway pegs to stretch his legs. My son is tall like me (6'4") and needs to move around a bit. Question I have: What diameter is the crash bar? Searched thru the 1st Gen Tech Talk and did not see the topic covered. Thanks, RR

Progressive Spring Kit 11-1144 $92.95 from the factory. http://www.progressivesuspension.com/ They are taking advantage with the springs. The balance of the work sounds about right. Steering head bearing should be checked, relubed, and properly set. Shouldn't need replaced. I replaced mine at 100,000 miles just because I had it apart (putting Progressive spring in forks incidentally). They were still in decent shape. RR

Post a picture. We can let you know if it is a Progressive or not. RR

Not sure I could get through the snow we are getting here in WI. Why the hell do I live here? RR

I have routinely gone to the local keysmith to have keys made. They always have the blanks (except for the BMW), and the keys always work. They end up being about $5 a key and are right the first time. RR

For $4k? That's a steal. Good purchase. RR