RedRider

List price on this OEM rotor is $300. They were giving you 10% off. Bikebandit.com has the OEM rotor for $218. 25% off it appears. OEM part are normally more expensive than 3rd party aftermarket parts. For future reference, you may want to check prices on the Internet and then ask the dealer if they can get close. My experience is that they can often get within 5 or 10% (sometimes even beating Internet price). If they can't? Then, no hard feelings. RR

But, did he have it in stock? RR

Fixed the typo. RR

1625 miles from Fond du Lac, WI to ..... San Antonio, TX. April, 2010. RR

Welcome to VR.org. PCW is a stronger bellville spring like what is currently installed. It will help but not cure if you are heavy handed on the throttle. Skydoc17 is also a stronger spring with a design similar to OEM. Again, it will help but not cure if you are heavy handed. The Barnett changes out the pressure plate and provides multiple coil springs instead of the bellville style spring. It will cure the problem. Costs more, but you will no longer need to concern yourself with the clutch. RR PS. Skydoc is VERY knowledgeable about these bikes. Take his input as gospel. My input? Not so much.

Thank you for the prompt reply. I may have a set of 1" mount pegs in my parts stash. RR

My son picked up the St. Jude Venture last night (thank you Ken). On his way home, he noticed it would be nice to have highway pegs to stretch his legs. My son is tall like me (6'4") and needs to move around a bit. Question I have: What diameter is the crash bar? Searched thru the 1st Gen Tech Talk and did not see the topic covered. Thanks, RR

Progressive Spring Kit 11-1144 $92.95 from the factory. http://www.progressivesuspension.com/ They are taking advantage with the springs. The balance of the work sounds about right. Steering head bearing should be checked, relubed, and properly set. Shouldn't need replaced. I replaced mine at 100,000 miles just because I had it apart (putting Progressive spring in forks incidentally). They were still in decent shape. RR

Post a picture. We can let you know if it is a Progressive or not. RR

Not sure I could get through the snow we are getting here in WI. Why the hell do I live here? RR

I have routinely gone to the local keysmith to have keys made. They always have the blanks (except for the BMW), and the keys always work. They end up being about $5 a key and are right the first time. RR

For $4k? That's a steal. Good purchase. RR

My rear went out at 100,000 miles. Not good. However, I was able to limp home almost a thousand miles on the bad bearing (didn't know that was the problem). When I took the rear wheel off, all the parts of the bearing fell on the floor. I was lucky. Changed out both rear and front. Fronts looked OK. They are not expensive to change out. I know I will be changing them out again at 150,000 miles or so. RR

A KLR is simple as a tractor. The doohicky is easy to do if not already done. And, I have the tools required (and are willing to loan them to you - they are for a 2nd gen KLR, but I am pretty sure the tools are the same for both generations). Get the doohicky and torsional spring from Eagle Mike. Accept no substitutes. There are lots of places for parts, accessories, and farkles. In general, they are relatively inexpensive also. The KLR is a fun, reliable, pack mule of a bike. You will like it. Although, you will have to get thick skin for the ridicule about being cheap. Get a milk crate for the back. RR

As an addendum to this, carry a screwdriver with you. When this happens again, open the float bowls and see if there is any fuel in them. If no, problem is the fuel pump. If yes, then you have a different issue. RR

Apparently, I stand corrected. Perhaps some things have changed in the last 25 years since I worked for Timken. Although, no engineer worth their stripe will ignore a Master Mechanic. While you may not care to 'do the math' about a problem, your experience in knowing how things work make your input very valuable. In my current position doing automation engineering, I recognized long ago that no one knows more about a machine function and process than the machine operator and the mechanic/maintenance personnel that supports it. Ignore their experience and input at your own peril. Thanks for the update. RR

It sounds like it is time to add an auxiliary fuse block. They fit nicely under the fairing. My favorite - a little more expensive, but really nice http://fuzeblocks.com/ There are several other options out there. RR

I have a set of Sears and a set of HF. The Sears are longer, stronger, and much better quality. They were almost $10 though . RR

None of the Timken tapers are thru hardened (I was a bearing engr for Timken in a former life). All are case hardened. A tapered brg will die an early death if hardened thru the rear rib. It will crack right off if a shock load hits. The M designates a complete bearing set (tapered bearing plus cup - cup is the outer race). Quality brands are Timken, NTN (Japan), Koyo (Japan), NSK (Japan), SKF (Sweden), FAG (Germany). I don't trust Chinese bearings. RR

Don't worry about the dash lights. If they stay on after running for a bit, then you can worry. Oil light comes on because it measures oil pressure and there isn't any until the bike starts. Not sure why the Temp light would come on, but I wouldn't worry about it. However, it does sound like a dead battery. Take it to the local auto parts store and get it load tested. Good luck. RR

I might suggest getting the bearing from a good manufacturer. Amazon is likely selling the same cheap Chinese bearing originally in the HF trailer. I quick search of Motion Industries (bearing house), shows a Timken 30205M (M designates a complete bearing vs. just the inner or outer race) in stock for $27.55. http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productSearch.jsp Good info on the dust cap and Bearing Buddy. Thanks. RR

Wow, for $500 the model better still be in it when it arrives. RR

An inexpensive set of mechanics picks are about $10. I'm sure they have them at Canadian Tire or Sears. Here in the States, HF has them for about $6. Here you go. $8.39 at CT. http://tinyurl.com/cpxp29e RR

I use a mechanics pick. RR

If this were closer to me, I would make a play for it. Ohhhh, a VMax would be fun. RR