RedRider

My rear went out at 100,000 miles. Not good. However, I was able to limp home almost a thousand miles on the bad bearing (didn't know that was the problem). When I took the rear wheel off, all the parts of the bearing fell on the floor. I was lucky. Changed out both rear and front. Fronts looked OK. They are not expensive to change out. I know I will be changing them out again at 150,000 miles or so. RR

A KLR is simple as a tractor. The doohicky is easy to do if not already done. And, I have the tools required (and are willing to loan them to you - they are for a 2nd gen KLR, but I am pretty sure the tools are the same for both generations). Get the doohicky and torsional spring from Eagle Mike. Accept no substitutes. There are lots of places for parts, accessories, and farkles. In general, they are relatively inexpensive also. The KLR is a fun, reliable, pack mule of a bike. You will like it. Although, you will have to get thick skin for the ridicule about being cheap. Get a milk crate for the back. RR

As an addendum to this, carry a screwdriver with you. When this happens again, open the float bowls and see if there is any fuel in them. If no, problem is the fuel pump. If yes, then you have a different issue. RR

Apparently, I stand corrected. Perhaps some things have changed in the last 25 years since I worked for Timken. Although, no engineer worth their stripe will ignore a Master Mechanic. While you may not care to 'do the math' about a problem, your experience in knowing how things work make your input very valuable. In my current position doing automation engineering, I recognized long ago that no one knows more about a machine function and process than the machine operator and the mechanic/maintenance personnel that supports it. Ignore their experience and input at your own peril. Thanks for the update. RR

It sounds like it is time to add an auxiliary fuse block. They fit nicely under the fairing. My favorite - a little more expensive, but really nice http://fuzeblocks.com/ There are several other options out there. RR

I have a set of Sears and a set of HF. The Sears are longer, stronger, and much better quality. They were almost $10 though . RR

None of the Timken tapers are thru hardened (I was a bearing engr for Timken in a former life). All are case hardened. A tapered brg will die an early death if hardened thru the rear rib. It will crack right off if a shock load hits. The M designates a complete bearing set (tapered bearing plus cup - cup is the outer race). Quality brands are Timken, NTN (Japan), Koyo (Japan), NSK (Japan), SKF (Sweden), FAG (Germany). I don't trust Chinese bearings. RR

Don't worry about the dash lights. If they stay on after running for a bit, then you can worry. Oil light comes on because it measures oil pressure and there isn't any until the bike starts. Not sure why the Temp light would come on, but I wouldn't worry about it. However, it does sound like a dead battery. Take it to the local auto parts store and get it load tested. Good luck. RR

I might suggest getting the bearing from a good manufacturer. Amazon is likely selling the same cheap Chinese bearing originally in the HF trailer. I quick search of Motion Industries (bearing house), shows a Timken 30205M (M designates a complete bearing vs. just the inner or outer race) in stock for $27.55. http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productSearch.jsp Good info on the dust cap and Bearing Buddy. Thanks. RR

Wow, for $500 the model better still be in it when it arrives. RR

An inexpensive set of mechanics picks are about $10. I'm sure they have them at Canadian Tire or Sears. Here in the States, HF has them for about $6. Here you go. $8.39 at CT. http://tinyurl.com/cpxp29e RR

I use a mechanics pick. RR

If this were closer to me, I would make a play for it. Ohhhh, a VMax would be fun. RR

I'll bring the bag and a brick. Don's already got the pond. RR

Is the neighbor selling just the rear drive or the whole bike for $500? If the whole bike, you might want to just refurbish the VMax and get your hooligan on. To swap the VMax rear drive, you will need someone to machine the access hole for the speedo pickup. Or you can do as Miles suggested and just have the internals swapped. Overall, I believe you are better off running in 4th gear with the standard rear drive than to spend the money on the VMax. It is all a matter or ratios. However, a VMax for $500? Be still my beating checkbook. RR

SWMBO and I are vacationing in San Antonio. My eldest son, who lives in Austin, came over for dinner this evening. He will be picking up the bike after I get all the payments and paperwork taken care of. Originally, he was concerned about having to pay for the bike and insurance, etc. He is just getting on his feet financially. However, once he found out it would all be paid for (at least initially), he was all for it. We are heading back to the cold and snowy north tomorrow. Bleah! Will make sure my son gets on here once he picks up the St. Jude Venture. RR

Try bypassing the fuel pump and gravity feed the carbs. You will need an almost full tank of gas to make this work. Do a search for the procedure. I'm on my phone so can't easily search. RR

http://www.autocom.co.uk/bluetooth.html This should work. You may also want to check with Sierra Electronics. They may also have something that would work and be more cost competitive. RR

Sorry Miles. Kept thinking about it and went for it. If anybody else is up for it, put up your $$$. RR

http://www.mixitproducts.com/ This should do what you need. RR

Purchase a copy of Rider magazine. They usually have a $299 coupon in there. The lift works great. RR

Or Honda Moly 60 (purchase from honda car dealer - cheaper than from bike dealer) Also, there is a snap ring on the hub that needs removed before you can pull the pins out. RR

For all of you's south of the border, 16C = 61F You just invert the numbers. RR

How are the tires on this bike? RR

You guys need to move to Wisconsin. $23 for biennial registration. Another $15 per year ($30 per biennial) for having the plates personalized. RR