RedRider

1,000,000 Years BC http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608044103652347691&w=247&h=366&c=7&rs=1&qlt=80&pid=1.7 RR

These work well. My Dad carries his iPhone in one of these on his motorcycle. Never had a problem. http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-universal-x-grip-cradle-bike-mount-rap-274-1-un7.html RR

Yup.

BW matched set - Dunlop E3's. You couldn't give me a D404 as I only get about 4500 miles out of a rear. I hate having to change tires while on a trip. RR

As said, you need to know what is in there. Do you have a local dealer? If so, chat with the shop manager and see if they will swap shims with you. Mine will (free of charge as long as they have enough of the needed size - they won't give me their last one). I also have a shim kit. If you need a couple of shims and can't get them locally, let me know. I can drop them into a flat rate mailer and have them there in a couple of days. Just send me your extras when you are done. However, check with your dealer first. FYI - it is always a good idea to get to know your local dealer shop manager. They can save you some real problems. RR

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/4382942175.html 815 area code should be near you. RR

Don, Glad you two are working it out. We haven't met yet, but I look forward to meeting you and your bride at the next MD. RR

Pretty basic stuff you can do yourself if you have a lift. You don't need to worry about a valve shim adjustment for another 14k miles (28,000 mile interval). If you look at page 7-3 in the owners manual, there is a Periodic Maintenance and Minor Repair chart. At 14,000 miles you should expect to: 1) Spark plugs - NGK DPR8EA-9 available from any auto parts store for about $2 each. OEM recommended. 2) Carb Sync 3) If you can find one of the old timers here, work with them to set your carb float levels. However, unless you are having trouble, I suggest waiting until you do your valve shims since you need to pull the carbs then anyway (Yeah, I know you can do valves without pulling carbs - I just did it that way. But it is way easier to pull the carbs.) 4) Oil and filter change depending on when it was last done (8000 mile/12 month intervals even though most change it more often than that - I usually maintain an 8000 interval). 5) Replace coolant. 6) Change fluid in both brakes and the clutch. Recommend getting speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder. Use a fresh unopened can of DOT4 fluid. 7) If you have original rubber on the bike, replace the tires. Make notes / take pictures of how the parts go on the axle. There is a washer that needs to go in the correct spot. Get a really big 27mm combo wrench. That way you don't have to pull the left side muffler. While rear wheel is off: a) Lube the splines between the rear drive and the wheel. Honda Moly 60 b) Take the pin drive off the wheel. You have to remove a snap ring for this to come off. If the pins are dry and rusty (likely), clean pins with crocus cloth or steel wool. Clean the rubber bound pin receptacles with a 20 ga. shotgun barrel cleaning brush. I think a .45 works also. Once clean, coat with Moly60 and reassemble. You might want to have another snap ring on hand in case you bend this one when removing. c) Remove the pumpkin (rear drive). (4) 12mm acorn nuts. You should take this opportunity to drain the pumpkin first. Put a piece of masking tape with 'Rear Oil' over the ignition switch so you don't forget to refill. SAE 80w90 gearoil is recommended by the manual. d) Remove the drive shaft (likely come out with the pumpkin). Lubricate liberally with Moly60. There are several thread on here about putting this back together. It's kind of a PITA the first couple of times you do it. e) Flip inside and outside rear brake pads. They tend to wear unevenly. If they are low, replace with EBC HH pads. Unless you are heavy on the rear brakes, I would expect them to still have lots of meat. Don't play around with your brake pads. Brake discs are expensive, pads are cheap, wrecking hurts. 8) There is a bolt on the pivot of the heal/toe shifter. Remove it and coat with Loctite blue (242 IIRC). Put it back on and snug up. 9) Remove your Captain and Tennille tape from the cassette player and throw away. You're welcome. 10) Lube both hand lever pivots. 11) Go around the bike with your metric allen wrenches and tighten everything. You will likely find a few locations with loose bolts. Along the rear fender chrome support (behind the saddle bags) come to mind. The bolts holding the trunk down (access from bottom). If any of these are hand loose, remove and add a drop of Loctite blue. Check hinge support bolts for the trunk lid. Hinge bolts on both both saddle bags. This should keep you busy for a Saturday. Purchase Honda Moly60 from the local Honda CAR dealer. It costs about half of what the Honda bike dealer charges. And they will have it in stock while the bike dealer will need to order. Keep your eyes on this board for a maintenance day in your area. Pretty much everything here can be done at one. It will only cost you beer and/or ice cream. RR

Brad, We knew the cookies would lure you to the dark side. Welcome back to the 2nd gen. Good looking scoot. RR

Bulb size is PAR36. RR

BTDT. Misaligned the drive shaft at the U-joint. Thought it was in, it was next to it. It is kind of scary first time it happens. RR

Jeff, Why don't you spend your time and money building a garage with a heater. Then you can wrench on your bike all winter (unless you get a 2nd Gen - then you won't need to). RR

Looks like you need to get out of church, change clothes, and head to Kingman, AZ. Redneck's Southern Pit BBQ would be your destination. 104 miles each way. This will allow you to run a tank to check mileage and to get some great BBQ. And to make me envious of living where it is warm and sunny this time of year. RR

Dang, I just bought one a couple of weeks ago. The Odyssey was my favorite battery (but I bought a bit cheaper). RR

:rotf: Yes, use Loctite. The BLUE Loctite, not the red. Interesting you posting this. I was in the shop yesterday and finished a couple of bike projects. Noticed a nylon washer laying on the table left over from the bag of nuts and bolt purchased from the hardware store. Couldn't remember why I bought it. Now I do. Want to put the washer behind the bolt to see if the shifter could be more steady. Seems to slop around too much. RR

Great fix guys. Would never have solved that mystery. Lassesand, you mentioned this bike has been sitting for a lot of years. It may be helpful to soak the clutch plates in oil as they are surely dry as Lutefisk sitting for as long as they did. However, if the clutch is working, ride it like you stole it. RR

What happens when you drunk dial while driving? RR

Is there a member near Tarrytown, NY that could go take a look at a car for me? Please? RedRider

Microphone from your helmet. Allows you to have your Zumo hard wired to your bike and to talk on the phone over your wired headset/microphone. Buddy Rich cable should work for this, although, I'm not sure. The BR cable was designed for the Zumo 550. Assume it will work with the 600/660. Check with Buddy. RR

Vmax eh? RR

From a few years ago. That is NOT 10,000 miles http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Misc/i-cZXvWm7/0/M/100_1782-M.jpg

Easy things first. Change the plug. $2 at O'reilly's. Check to see if the plug is wet indicating fuel is getting into the cylinder. RR

Send them a picture of a $100 bill.

http://grandforks.craigslist.org/mcy/4367370576.html 2nd the MSF rider course. RR

What bike do you have? Your profile shows a Boulevard which is a Suzuki (IIRC). RR