JohnMidnight

Don't worry about the call. Most often then not its legitimate bs. Only one person I know who went thru with it. Everything was fine til I ran a health check. Imagine my mock surprise when I watch MalwareBytes number start climbing on infected files found. It was a God damn mess. -Mobile Posting at its finest

Good to read you're getting better. She should of been asking about what you been doin to keep the speed on your healing bits in top shape! -Mobile Posting at its finest

New bits: the Strommie is a ungodly blast. And. She can carry. She can't tow, but she can carry a large volume of gear, all coming down to what sides and trunk you bought. Tank bag you got etc. She can carry. I've read of people camping with a pillioness (new word I learned for attached female passenger) so it can be done. She goes further on a tank than my Venture could, it's a 5.8 US gallon tank. I'm getting 36-37. She's got 5+1 gears, with a rider statement of a true overdrive gear. In 6th generally doing 85 at 4K rpm and she Topps at 9.5k rpm before the red. Her turn radius is less than Lady Blue, but she is considerably lighter. Coming from Blue, I swear I feel like I could probably leg press the bike. Saddle is a little tough in the butt, don't think I've ridden long enough to break it in for me. Corbin seat is setup for a replacement. Heated grips are sweet, it's a version 7 Oxford controller. Told the 8 is interchangeable and requires one less item, so I'll be switching that. Current controller little hard to use with gloves no tactile feedback with the buttons, and lights hard to read during day. Tires are nice Metzler Tourances, good dirt feel. Makes me more confident in dirt than Blue did. She's as tall as Blue, better lights. Room to upgrade. Two 12volt outlets. And I think that's about it. Comparatively. I can't. Blue was made for a different market. Touring. This one is a dual sport tourer. Though something more lighter would be better for real dirt and mud. I like it and happy with her. If you honestly want a lighter ride. Goes as fast as a Venture if not more so, better mileage--650 variant does better in that department--can carry just as much in the bags if not also more so depending on what you get. Give the Stroms a look. Or a Yamahas breed Super Tenre, Kawai Versys, Triumphs triple that I can't remember the name to but that one's nice. We got a rider in our chapter who rides one. -Mobile Posting at its finest

At the same time I'm thinking about replacing the pickup coil to solve the death stall the bike gets (everything else checks out fine. New fuse box, no issues with ignition, sparks replaced, fuel pump functional) I stared at a new bike. I ended up not getting a Royal Star. Much to my at first dismay. But instead got myself a 2008 Suzuki VStrom with equipped caribou panniers and a givi trunk and heated grips. The royals used nearby all had to have something done to them. One was even. HDified. Tbh. None fit what I wanted out of a new bike. But this Vstrom did. Love the new bike. It's one heck of a blast. Lady Blue is still together. Probably gonna parts her. Thinking about apf salvage in Fresno (Cali) or Craigslist. -Mobile Posting at its finest

Fuel pump works. Thats a affirmative as I'm able to drive it, and it clicks even when it fails to go (the software also reports it work too O.o) but so far not thunked it yet >.> Though I think it may be a fuse problem at this point, but uncertain. Two of the fuses, the Ignition and Signal are both discolored, but are not broken. Except for the clasp on the signal fuse. The left side clasp broke, so nothing clamps smoothly. So on the list is a brand new member sold fuse box. Redid the wiring for the pickup coil, as the frayed wire is completely broken. We don't have good solder, just junk solder now at this point, so I made some extra length of wire 18G with a pair of electrical couplers, and also snipped the connector on the pickup coil end replaced each wire end with a covered wire connector. One red one blue. ANd it APPEARS to be working...... till it stops again. |So I will attempt troubleshooting the fuel pump, and get the fuse box replaced. Wont have any updates on that till probably January.

One thing I haven't done is that. One thing that I'm tempted to just do, is plug the connection all together... because on my airbox, the connection is not open O.o (Seriously)

Check your fuses, and while your at it. Pop the front off and hose the connectors all down with a Electronic Connection Cleaner/Protection. I do that once a year on my front end for the lights, dashes, and every other connector up front (especially since the dash buttons for the display sometimes don't work, but a good cleaning fixes em) Just now doing it to every other connection while I'm at it now >.> Yes I know you said fuses, good and your batterys good, but clean up the fuse connections, and the battery posts. BUT. BUT. You said the batterys good........ I'm up with Prairie Hammer, DOES IT TURN OVER? My Deka died two weeks ago. 12.8 Volts, but BUBKIS across the board for anything.w

94 it read on the multimeter. But I ended up reading that from a exposed piece of wire where the insulation was gone. Just applied some black tape for now. Work site does not have what I would need to trip and remake the wire till I make it home for the weekend. The wire in question was not black. Water getting on or it rubbing something conductive would explain the reverse polarity I was getting read by the software. Will test further. Also do not have one that works for the bike. Original is somewhere. Correct replacement is somewhere else, and a wrong one is somewhere else >.>. I haven't checked my storage locker tho. So maybe its there. The other two units anyhow were replaced because they were not working anyway. But Im thinkiwng its the pickup wire on the BIKE side (not the pickup side). As that wire was exposed and could be able to be buggered and cause the problem. Make sense to when the bike was STILL usually GOING at SPEED an responding to throttle and everything just no sparks. But maybe its not the real problem....w hmmm................. I haven't checked the wires further down the line from the ignitech on top of the air cleaner box. (mostly because how much of a pain getting the box on and off is with that one stinkin' hose. Edit: some additional info, clarification and some removable of extra ws.... The "W" key is a extra touchy button on this laptop.

Alright. Been awhile since I been back here. Who collects 12$s just got 12$s. Anyway.... Do the ignitech units have a lifespan? Either Mine is failing like a bugger, or I've got a connector problem. Problem: Bike dies. Cannot RESTART. Untill key switch is turned off and on, but IMMEDIATELY on starting bike dies. When tested previously, hooked up, system reports the polarity switches. Turn key on off and polarity is good. Today. It died three times. 1st time, I unpluged the main connector, bike went and goed. 2nd time only three blocks from where I was at, died. Unplugged both y connections, and returned them. Bike worked. Went. Bike unpluged while getting food. Bike worked till 3rd time. Each time before key is OFF before starting This time, key is ON, unplugged one connector labled VMAX. Put cover back on, bike starts, and goes makes it safetly back to barn 1.5 miles away. Why fail? Getting conector cleaner to hose connectors (again) Update 1: Used a foaming Electrical Contact cleaner. INjected each opening on the female side, and on the male side, for all three conntections. Reseated these connections three times for good measure. Will update again once testing begins in a few hrs. Ideas, thoughts?

If 109 is what I'm to look forward to later on in the month. man.... Right now supposed to get as high as 92 this week.

Thats alright. I have a habbit of sometimes jumping without thinking. as long as said jumping has a higher survival rate than the other option. Still sometimes results with me messing something up. I'll probably pop a few normals back in there and see if there's a difference, besides the fact that I'm partial to at least keeping the LEDS for the signal lights, and the dash lighting.

Did some tweakin'.... out of bordem one day... while figuring I'll pass on figuring out the high gas consumption on the lady (we've rebuilt the carbs, and she still gets 30 mpg, heck the lady will do 27 too. This with the new TCI) Anyway, I figured I'd LED the dashboard. So I did. Welll... I haven't gotten around to busting the dash out again (yet... I've moved from my old location, and tools I used were my dads.) but noticing now my high beam indicator wont always turn on when the headlight is indeed on high beam setting, and my headlight indicator (white light) is constantly lit... I'm wondering if I messed something up the electronics part of the dash. Thoughts? All lights were replaced as mentioned in the tech guide here on the forum, minus the front and rear turn signals as led (my rear brake light was already LED, never bothered to add a resistor there..... My motto has been even if it alarms me, if everything else shows I'm good, then I'm good. heh.)

To the OP Its your TCI. Mine gave me all sorts of heart ache like that last year. She'd be fine for the first 100 miles them bad, it'd start. Then get worse, then hit the point where she's done, and needs tow, or sit around for a few hours start her back up just fine and get home. my fix was a Ignitech..... I've got my original TCI, and two other TCI in my storage locker. I wont be going thru town again till tomorrow, I'll swing by and pull them from the locker, check em out, and give a headsup incase you need one

Lady Blue. Or... as some of the crotch rocket guys and gals have coined her, the Blue Beast.

The sight glass on my front brake cylinder burst, I caught it all, and super glued the sight glass (it does not drip. Remotely sight usable) But, it seems despite that, the lower half of the plastic on the terminal panel that holds the CLASS, and the CB is severely gone now, the "seat" for it all is still fine. (And, gone as in. The CB bounces >.>) Anyone have that panel? http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp #45 here

And to you as well

On Kury's site, just get the ones for the GoldWing, or the ones stated for the Royal Star and Venture model?

3.599 from the Chev.

I was told to fill it till it dribbled out. Then cap it.

'cept Loctite + Plastic = More work

Anyone use it? I've heard about it recently, seems its actually been on the market for some time now. Usable on Plastics, and I've seen a few with a reviewer commenting on its use on his motorcycle. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-Threadmate-Bottle-Brush-Applicator/dp/B001VXRM5Q]Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate, 30 ml Bottle with Brush Cap Applicator: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419zJmdFxkL.@@AMEPARAM@@419zJmdFxkL[/ame]

chk the cable too Had my speedo cable pop loose on the road once

Half a dozen different non bike projects keep me occupied elsewhere, but this weekend is looking light... So oem fork seals it is. Dust covers, fork gators? Good chunk of my riding is done in the dawn and dusk, where the damn bugs are most active.........

I would like to, but for some odd reason, two months in, and I've yet to see that sealmate. Been shipped too. Best 6.99$ donation ever.

I'm thinking about the BikeMaster seals. My dad used em in Lady Blue before me and before they started to leak, they did okay. Anyone with experience on em? Dust seals, oem as well? and to top it off... Covers. I love the fact my forks look good uncovered, but a little bit of protection couldn't hurt... If oem, can't someone point the seals out for me in the parts fisch -.-' every time I look at it, my head hurts.