OldGazer

Never mind guys. evilBay to the rescue. $10.50, free shipping. Should have it by the end of the week.

I'm having starting issues. Is there anyway to test the starter relay? Is it rebuildable? Thanks...

Go to evilBay and get a set of Road King take offs, or if you have any Harley rider friends, ask around. I just put RKs on my '91, and I love 'em. There are numerous threads about doing this, but the two biggies are getting a transition pipe bent and fabbing hangers. My exhaust guy took out the stock mufflers and custom bent the transition pipe. He used the muffler mount bolt to hold some strap. The RK was test fitted and measured for the clamp. The clamp is a stock Harley muffler clamp welded to the strap.

I don't feel the need to catch up to anyone. If you pass me on the super slab the ticket is all yours...

The flex pipe was all wrong. You can put it over the collector box outlet, but you cannot get it to seal inside of a H-D muffler inlet... But, here is what I did: The pics show a hanger attached to the muffler mounting bolt. An H-D muffler clamp is welded to the hanger. The transition pipe is custom bent. Complete install cost me a C note...

By knocking a hole in the baffle end plugs the mufflers should behave like a glass pack. However, when you look at the baffle tube you will see it has a smaller ID than the inlet pipe. This means that the exhaust pulses are being forced to slow down and shed acoustic energy. Conversely, the stock mufflers on my Sportster have the baffle plugs cut out, and the baffle tube is very close to, if not the same ID as the inlet pipe. These mufflers perform exactly like classic glass packs...

I know better than to expect my Yamaha to sound like a Harley. If I want to hear that sound I fire up my Sportster. I was expecting a little more VOLUME than what I heard initially. After I put the Voyager kit back on, we noticed the bike does sound better than it did with the stock mufflers.

Well, I finally had the time, and after talking to a local muffler guy I had him replace the stock mufflers with a set of H-D Road Couch mufflers. The guy did some great work, but the sound is really a let down. Two winters ago I had the bike torn down to parade rest so I could rebuild the front struts and do so other much need work. One night a buddy came over, and just for grins I fired her up. With no mufflers the sound was deafening, so I figured a set of Road Couch mufflers would be just the ticket. Wrong... Even with holes in the baffle plugs (I can see straight through the muffler), the bike is just a touch louder that it was with the stock mufflers. What gives? I have an '03 EVO Sportster with stock mufflers that have the baffles cut out, and its loud, but in a '57 Chevy w/glass packs sorta way, so its not obnoxious. I was really expecting a nice sweet rumble and now I feel like I wasted money....

The flex pipe idea was a bust, so I'm back to square 1.

Thanks for the link. I did some digging and I'm going to check out some flex pipe and some pipe hangers at AutoZone. If these work out I may be able to come up with a "better" way to do this... I'll keep ya posted.

I've seen some brackets on evilBay, but the seller has some disclaimer about not being able to ship due to an illness or some such thing. Still, having pictures is what I require so I can see what is needed BEFORE I spend any money.

I've got that part covered. Having the transition pipe chromed is a real waste of money, 'cause the heat from the exhaust is gonna turn in blue any way. If I want bling I'll find a chrome heat shield... What I really need are close up pictures of how the muffler is attached to the saddle bag support.

Not to dis the OP, but based on the nature of the question he asked, do you really think he could install Linux by himself?

Yes, what you are thinking about can be done. What you need to do is start you "new" system with memory, the hard drive, a CD/dvd drive, mouse, keyboard, and the on-board video. XP is gonna start looking for drivers, so what you need to do is put the new MB's driver disk in the DVD and let 'er rip. Start with the MB chipset and video drivers first and then move to the network adapter. Take a peek into Device Manager to see if you have any hardware issues. Install drivers as necessary. When you get the hardware working TEST EVERY THING!!!! and then test it again... When you are sure the system is stable, then you and install any necessary hardware from the old system.... It would also be a very good idea to hit the vendor's/mgf's web site and look for any driver or BIOS updates.

I'm finishing up my winter maintenance and I plan to put a set of Road King mufflers on. I have the mufflers, but I need to know what is the best way to mount them. I know about needing to make a transition piece, but what I need are some close up pictures of the final mounting arrangements that Y'All have used. I did a search an all I found were some long distance shots that did not show any mounting brackets or adapters. If you want you can hit me on yahoo. My screen and e-mail make is red03sporty (that is a zero, not the letter 'O') Thanks.

I agree, with one exception: Instead of cutting the PVC spacers, I didn't use them at all. To set the preload I used the original upper piston (the part with the O-Ring). I used 10 wt oil with the level 5" from the top of the fork tube, no springs installed.

I just did my forks not too long ago, and that looks like a lower bushing to me.

I second that. You should see the slides and not the jet needels...

Ok, road testing is pretty much done. Spent 8 hours yesterday and several hours today on the bike. First off, this little gizmo sucks some juice! The main issue is when you make a prolonged stop, be sure to turn your iPod off. Second, I believe there are some issues with Auto-Lock in that you can loose audio...haven't verified this yet, but for the time beeing I am running my iPod with auto-lock set to Never... This also contributes to power drain.... Third, unlike the synch cable and other attachments, this device does not have any latches. What this means is that if you set this in one of the front pouches, hitting a bump may dislodge the device and you loose audio... A work around is to keep the device in an inside vest pocket. Another issue is that an iPod w/Griffin connected to a USB cable make it impossible to keep the device connected to a power source and keep it in one of the front pouches. Turns out this configuration is just too long and you cannot snap the pouch closed. My GF is working on a way to solve the previous issues. She is sewing a cloth pouch with elastic straps. The pouch will hold and protect the "rig." The exlastic straps will keep the Griffin in place, and there will also be a small button hole to allow a USB cable to be connected so the device can be charged while it is in use. I still like the thing though. The sound quality is pretty good, we don't hear any ignition or cassette drive motor noise, and there is one less cable to worry about. Y'All ride safe....

Oops, got my right and left crossed up... That should be the RIGHT handle bar clamp.... The mirror hole on the left is already taken by the audio/comm system remote.... The only issue I see now is my curise control is non-functional (haven't bothered to trouble shoot it....), so taking my hand off of the throttle grip would be a problem....

I've been toying with the idea of putting a GPS on our '91 VR, and the main issue has been where to mount it. Then the other day I noticed there is a place that might work: The unused mirror mounting hole on the right handle bar clamp. The only issue I see is finding a left hand threaded bolt to fasten a mounting bracket with.... Thoughts?

Found a much better solution: A Griffin iTrip: http://store.griffintechnology.com/itrip This thing is sweet! It connects to an iPod or iPhone docking port, it has an auto scan function to find clear frequencies, it has 3 pre-sets, it has an optional control app or you can use the default music player, it has a mini-USB port so you can charge while you ride, and it has pretty decent audio... And for those of you with Bluetooh head sets, if yours has an FM reciever like the Scala units, you can stream audio to both headsets...

Instead of going BT, why not go FM? I just did that for my '91 VR. I tried BT headsets from Scala, but there were too many problems. For about $30.00 I got a Griffin iTrip. It connects to the docking port on my iPhone and iPod Touch. It will scan for clear frequencies and you can have 3 pre-sets. It has a USb port so you can charge your iDevice on the go if you have 12 volts available...like if you wired a battery tender pig tail to cigarette style outlet...

Hey Y'All! Lately we have been having issues with the audio system on our '91 VR, mostly with the cassett deck. To get music we have been using an iPod and a cassette adapter. That worked really well until the cassette deck started having issues. The main problem was some times the drive system would not run and this caused the auto-reverse mechanism to cycle repeately. Each time the deck cycled we would hear a click in the audio. I tracked the problem down to the drive belts. Some times things were fine, but as time went on the problem grew worse. Then a problem with with my head set reared its ugly head: I had an intermittent connection and would loose the left speaker... To "fix" these issues we decided to get a set of Scala headsets... That turned out to be a bad move. Not only did the head sets not function as advertised, I couldn't stream audio from my iPod to both headsets at the same time, so I fixed my headset cable and we sent the head sets back... But that's another story... Anyway, I hit on the idea of getting an FM transmitter and forgetting about using the cassette deck. After some research, I decided to get a Griffin iTrip. That was a good move! This thing is sweet. Its small, it connects to the iPod/iPhone docking port, there is an app that will run on my iPod Touch 4th gen and our iPhones, and so far the audio is pretty good. When you compare the price of $30.00 for the iTrip to the $242.99 for the Scala head sets, its a no-brainer. If you're worried about battery life, the iTrip has a mini-USB port, and if you have a 12 volt cigarette lighter style outlet wired to plug in to your Battery Tender cord (Hint Hint!!), then all you need is a 12 volt to USB adapter, the appropriate USB cable and you're all set.... I haven't had the chance to do any road testing yet, but I might get some time to take a ride later on today and I'll post my results. Y'All ride safe...

We use ours all of the time. I wear hearing aids, but I take them out when I'm on the bike. Because I've lost a good bit of hearing on the high freq end and have constant ringing, my aids make every thing sound "tinny" and "clicky," so when I'm on the bike I have to crank the volume up. Consequently I'm blasting my passenger, so she turns her volume down. If the Sierra cable does not preserve the volume controls than I'll have to pass... BTW: I tried a set of Scala Q2 Pro Bluetooth headsets, and they suck big time. Couldn't keep them connected to our iDevices (iPhone 4 and a 4th gen iPod Touch), the VOX function shuts off music streaming, so I had to un-pair and re-pair to get music back, the "noise canceling mic" didn't, you can't stream from one music source to both headsets (This was a major issue, the VR system has us spoiled..), and at speeds above 15 MPH or so the wind noise was so bad the headsets were totally useless. Worst $242.00 I ever spent....