saddlebum

Voltage reg is common on the second gens. Stater or stater connections are also worth checking.

Small as it was, It was great to meet up with those who did attend. It may not be as big a gathering as it once was but its nice that some friendships made in previous years still remain today. Thanks Phyill but making the effort to bring us together.

Will definitely miss seeing that fussy hat. Condolences to his familly..

I am good for the 31st. Now to save me the trouble of having to do a country wide search. How about a hint as to were to go. Polite places only please. It will be great to see everyone specially those that have been in hiding for some time.

As of this friday I will be on holidays until Aug 19th. Doing the staycation vacation, so barring a few projects I am pretty flexible for a change.

A few.. you didn't scare all of them away.

I did somer major restoration work on one a friend of mine bought last summer. I should ask to see if it was him.

Funny how you can so often think the worst , dig into the most complicated possibility only to find it was something stupid simple all along

Cannot see why it would. If you cannot find the proper software file for it assuming it may not have the correct one for your bike, let me know and I will try to find the one I have. It should still be on one of my hard drives which I never throw out.

Mmmm Guess I somehow missed it. Glad you solved your issue and now I learned something new as well but not at my own expense for a change.

Try draining the carbs and then close the drains. Remove fuel and vent lines from the carbs shoot carb cleaner in through the supply port then in through the vent or overflow ports. Drain the carbs again and if you have air turn down the pressure right down to 5 psi and with the drains open gently blow into the supply fitting. Close the drains reconnect the hoses and go for a test ride. See if that helps. Saved pulling a few carbs doing this. There is also the hot shot method described, in the tech section, you can try.

Post a pic of the ignitech box. The unit is more or less universal within reason It also depends what bike it came off of and therefore requires the correct programing for the bike involved. If you have the complete kit it should include a harness to connect to a laptop so it can be programmed for your bike. You should be able to download the correct file from ignitech. If not I may still have the files on my computer. With regards to testing your coils, there are shop manuals downloaded to the tech section on this site. Check and clean all the connections even if they look clean and make sure there is good drag and tension on your connector terminals by using a terminal of the correct size. I almost replaced a perfectly good cdi unit once and ended up not needing to after cleaning all the connections. Also check the harness connections going to your stator on the left side of the bike.

I could be wrong but I am pretty sure they use the same clutch.

I remember missing it because I was busy rebuilding my bike after being run off the road by an unlicsensed driver in an unlicensed and uninsured car.

Not a fan really. Most additives thicken oil which hinders the oils ability to creep into tight areas. That stickyness you often see demonstrated in those little gear setups on many parts counters also holds debris. Best option is to just use a good quality oil designed for wet clutches.